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Levine, Carl
US.20181109-007 · Person · 1929-2004

Carl Levine was born in 1929 in Bloomingdale, NJ, and died in his Manhattan apartment in 2004. Levine started in the home furnishings business working for his family's junior department store. After making market visits to Bloomingdale's for work, Levine became interested in the innovations he was seeing at the large department store and he joined the company in 1955. Starting as an assistant mattress buyer, Levine was promoted within the home furnishings department, eventually becoming the Sr. Vice President of the department in 1979, a position which he still held in 1986. Levine played a large role in Bloomingdale's development of period reproduction furniture and worked closely with Barbara D'arcy in the creation of Bloomingdale's themed model rooms. This interview was conducted by Estelle Ellis, founder of Business, Inc., a business market research firm.

Stravitz, Russell
US.20181109-009 · Person

Russell Stravitz joined Bloomingdale's in 1969 and had been working on and off at the company for 18 years as of 1986. For the previous 5 years, Stravitz had been reporting directly to Bloomingdale's CEO, Marvin S. Traub as the Executive VP of Bloomingdale's stores and the General Merchandising Manager of Ready-to-Wear and Fashion Accessories. Stravitz continued working at Bloomingdale's until 1980, before leaving to become the President of Rich's/ Goldsmith's Department Store.

Reyburn, Alan
US.20181109-013 · Person

Alan Reyburn was the Vice President for restaurant development at Bloomingdale's starting in 1979. Before joining Bloomingdale's, Reyburn oversaw five cruise ships with the British shipping company, Cunard Lines. From Cunard, Reyburn moved into design as part of an international consulting group.

Schaefer, Terron
US.20181109-011 · Person

Terry Schaefer was the Vice President of Marketing at Bloomingdale's in 1986. His professional career began after finishing his MBA at University of Texas and starting in marketing at Doyle, Dane & Bernbach (DDB) in 1972. After working on a number of different brands including Chanel, Schaefer left DDB for the position of Senior VP of Marketing at William Filene and Sons.

"Mr. Terron E. Schaefer, also known as Terry, served as Group Senior Vice President of Marketing at Saks Fifth Avenue Inc. Mr. Schaefer served as the Chief Creative Officer and Executive Vice President at Saks Incorporated until November 4, 2013. He served as Group Senior Vice President of Creative & Marketing of Saks Inc., from February 2004 to September 2006. He serves as Senior Executive Officer of Saks Fifth Avenue, a Division of Saks Inc. He served as Worldwide Creative Director of Simon Property Group from September 2003 to February 2004. He was the Co-founder of style365.com and served as its Co-Chief Executive Officer from August 1998 to July 2002. He served as Senior Vice President, Marketing - Worldwide Retail of Warner Brothers from 1995 to 1998. His marketing career spans over 30 years and includes a wealth of international retail experience. Mr. Schaefer served as Senior Vice President, Marketing, Worldwide Retail of Warner Bros., with responsibility for international marketing and brand development from 1995 to 1998; and from 1988 to 1995 his retail marketing experience included leadership positions at Macy's West, Galerias Preciados, Harrod's, Bloomingdale's, and William Filene and Sons. Mr. Schaefer began his marketing career at Doyle Bane Bernbach where he served as Vice President of International. While there, he formulated advertising strategies and supervised creative development for H.J. Heinz, Polaroid, Chanel, and Procter & Gamble and opened offices in Tokyo, Hong Kong, and Sydney. He has been awarded two prestigious Gold Lions at Cannes for the world's best television advertising campaigns. Mr. Schaefer received both his undergraduate and MBA degrees from the University of Texas." -Bloomberg Executive Profile

Tansky, Burton, 1937-
US.20181207-002 · Person · 1937-

Burton Tansky was born on November 30th, 1937 in Pittsburg, PA. After graduating from University of Pittsburg in 1961, Tansky worked as a buyer at department stores Filene's and Kauffman's before moving into an executive role at I. Magnin's and then working as president and CEO of Saks Fifth Avenue from 1980 to 1989. Tansky became the CEO and Chairman of Bergdorf Goodman in 1990, a position he still held at the time of this interview. Tansky has received a number of industry awards, including the Superstar Award from Fashion Group International in 2006, a Visionaries! Award in 2005 from the Museum of Arts and Design, the 2004 Gold Medal Award from the National Retail Federation, and, in 2002, appointment as a “Chevalier de la Legion d'Honneur” by the French government for his promotion of French-made merchandise in America. This interview was conducted by Estelle Ellis, founder of Business, Inc., a business market research firm.

Graham, Martha
US.20181207-012 · Person · 1894 May 11 – 1991 April 1

"Martha Graham’s creativity crossed artistic boundaries and embraced every artistic genre. She collaborated with and commissioned work from the leading visual artists, musicians, and designers of her day, including sculptor Isamu Noguchi and fashion designers Halston, Donna Karan, and Calvin Klein, as well as composers Aaron Copland, Samuel Barber, William Schuman, Norman Dello Joio, and Gian Carlo Menotti.

Influencing generations of choreographers and dancers including Merce Cunningham, Paul Taylor, and Twyla Tharp, Graham forever altered the scope of dance. Classical ballet dancers Margot Fonteyn, Rudolf Nureyev, and Mikhail Baryshnikov sought her out to broaden their artistry, and artists of all genres were eager to study and work with Graham—she taught actors including Bette Davis, Kirk Douglas, Madonna, Liza Minelli, Gregory Peck, Tony Randall, Eli Wallach, Anne Jackson, and Joanne Woodward to utilize their bodies as expressive instruments.

Graham’s groundbreaking style grew from her experimentation with the elemental movements of contraction and release. By focusing on the basic activities of the human form, she enlivened the body with raw, electric emotion. The sharp, angular, and direct movements of her technique were a dramatic departure from the predominant style of the time.

With an artistic practice deeply ingrained in the rhythm of American life and the struggles of the individual, Graham brought a distinctly American sensibility to every theme she explored. “A dance reveals the spirit of the country in which it takes root. No sooner does it fail to do this than it loses its integrity and significance,” she wrote in the 1937 essay A Platform for the American Dance.

Consistently infused with social, political, psychological, and sexual themes, Graham’s choreography is timeless, connecting with audiences past and present. Works such as Revolt (1927), Immigrant: Steerage, Strike (1928), and Chronicle (1936)—created the same year she turned down Hitler’s invitation to perform at the International Arts Festival organized in conjunction with the Olympic Games in Berlin—personify Graham’s commitment to addressing challenging contemporary issues and distinguish her as a conscientious and politically powerful artist.

Martha Graham remained a strong advocate of the individual throughout her career, creating works such as Deaths and Entrances (1943), Appalachian Spring (1944), Dark Meadow (1946), and Errand into the Maze (1947) to explore human and societal complexities. The innovative choreography and visual imagery of American Document (1938) exemplified Graham’s genius. The dramatic narrative, which included the Company’s first male dancer, explored the concept of what it means to be American. Through the representation of important American cultural groups such as Native Americans, African-Americans, and Puritans and the integration of text from historical American documents, Graham was able to capture the soul of the American people.

During her long and illustrious career, Graham created 181 masterpiece dance compositions, which continue to challenge and inspire generations of performers and audiences. In 1986, she was given the Local One Centennial Award for dance by her theater colleagues, awarded only once every 100 years, and during the Bicentennial she was granted the United States’ highest civilian honor, The Medal of Freedom. In 1998, TIME Magazine named her the “Dancer of the Century.” The first dancer to perform at the White House and to act as a cultural ambassador abroad, she captured the spirit of a nation and expanded the boundaries of contemporary dance. “I have spent all my life with dance and being a dancer,” she said. “It’s permitting life to use you in a very intense way. Sometimes it is not pleasant. Sometimes it is fearful. But nevertheless it is inevitable.”"

http://www.marthagraham.org/history/

Finger, Mildred
US.20180908-001 · Person · 1924-1995

"Mildred Finger Haines ... helped shape fashion tastes for four decades as a top buyer for department stores and a consultant to clothes makers and retailers.... From the late 1940's through the late 1960's, Mrs. Haines, known throughout her career as Mildred Finger, was a buyer of ready-to-wear at Macy's, Ohrbach's and Bergdorf Goodman, and was one of New York City's most often cited taste makers. At Bergdorf's, in particular, she was noted for bringing European styles to American consumers. She later became Vice President of Charles of the Ritz, headed fashion merchandising for Yves St. Laurent and became an independent consultant, with clients like the Limited and Arthur D. Little. Suffering from multiple sclerosis, she retired in 1986. In succeeding years, she frequently contributed her knowledge of the fashion industry to the oral history projects of the American Jewish Committee and the Fashion Institute of Technology...." New York Times Obituary, 1995

Board of Trustees
US.20180702.070 · Corporate body · 1951 (date of establishment)

The Board of Trustees of the Fashion Institute of Technology establishes policies governing the college. Subject to the approval of the Board of Trustees of the State University of New York, the Board appoints the college president, approves curricula, approves budgets, establishes tuition and fees within legal limits, and approves sites and facilities. It is responsible for the care, custody, control and management of the college’s physical facilities. The Board sets policies and delegates to the president or her designees the responsibility for implementing them, including personnel policies; the creation of divisions, departments, and administrative and academic positions; rules governing student conduct; the use of college facilities by outside organizations; the admission of students; and the preparation of the budget. The Board also has such other powers and duties as provided by New York law or prescribed by the SUNY Board of Trustees.

By State law, there are sixteen trustees: eight are appointed by the college’s local sponsor, through the New York City Panel for Educational Policy; seven are appointed by the governor, but must reside in New York City; and one, a student at the college, is elected by the other students of the college. Other than the student trustee, all trustees appointed after August 5, 2003 have seven-year terms; trustees appointed previously had nine-year terms. The student trustee serves for one year but has the same parliamentary privileges, including the right to vote, as the other members. The Board selects its chair from among its voting membership.The first Board of Trustees meeting was held on 1951 November 5 where all oaths of office were administered by Justice Charles D. Breitel, Justice of the Supreme Court, First Judicial District. Dr. Lawrence L. Jarvie served as the first and temporary chair and then Max Meyer served as the first elected chair. Also elected was Mortimer Ritter as President of the College. The first Secretary of the Board was Shirley Goodman. Minutes are produced as a result of each meeting. In the early days of the College, the Board met much more frequently, as often as once a month whereas now, the Board meets four (4) times per year.

Doneger Group
US.20180818.001 · Corporate body · 1946 (date of establishment)

"The Doneger Group operates as a source of market trends and merchandising strategies to the retail and fashion industry. It offers analysis and direction on product and business planning, as well as reviews the marketplace in the design, development, and merchandising process. The company provides trend and color forecasting services and products, as well as offers trend services and fashion publications. It also offers consulting services, including lifestyle profiling, industry analysis, customized color and trend research, and product line development. In addition, the company provides online reporting system that offers fashion and merchandising information and digitally photographed products. It offers its services to retail and wholesale apparel and accessories markets. The company was founded in 1946 and is based in New York, New York." -Bloomberg

Esquire, inc.
US.20180702.072 · Corporate body · 1933 (date of establishment)

Esquire is an American men's magazine, published by Hearst Corporation in the United States. It was founded in 1933 by Arnold Gingrich, David A. Smart, and Henry L. Jackson. Each of the founders had a different focus: Gingrich specialized in publishing, Smart led the magazine's business operations, and Jackson led and edited the fashion section. Jackson died in 1948, Smart died in 1952 but left Esquire in 1936 to found another men's magazine, Coronet. Gingrich led the magazine until his death in 1976, though Harold Hayes succeeded him as editor in 1961. The magazine was originally headquartered in Chicago but moved to New York City in 1950.

Esquire started in 1933 as a quarterly magazine, and later transformed itself into a more refined periodical with an emphasis on men's fashion. Originally published by Esquire Publishing Co., it has been published by Hearst since 1986. It has gone through numerous iterations. During the 1960s, the magazine was distinctive for its oversize pages and helping pioneer the trend of "New Journalism." It shrank to a standardized 8 1/2 by 11 inches in 1971. In 1977, the magazine was sold to Clay Felker who reinvented it as Esquire Fortnightly. This only lasted a year, after which the magazine ran monthly. David M. Granger has been editor-in-chief of Esquire since June 1997.

Fragrance Foundation
US.20181207-001 · Corporate body · 1949 (date of establishment)

"The Fragrance Foundation, established in 1949, is a not-for-profit whose membership includes more than 82 of the world’s most important corporations in the world of Fragrance." http://www.fragrance.org/about/

Harper's Bazaar
US.20180927-001 · Corporate body · 1867 (date of establishment)

Harper's Bazaar is an American fashion magazine founded in 1867 by Harper and Brothers. The magazine began as a weekly publication for women in middle and upper classes, eventually moving to monthly publication. In 1913, Harper's Bazaar was purchased by William Randolph Hearst. Currently, Harper's Bazaar is owned by the Hearst Corporation.

State University of New York
US.20181026-003 · Corporate body · 1948 (date of establishment)

The nation’s largest comprehensive public university system, The State University of New York (SUNY), was established in 1948.

Sustainability Council
US.20180718.003 · Corporate body · 2007 (date of establishment)

The Sustainability Council was established by the President, to develop and foster sustainability initiatives throughout the FIT community.

Each year the Council organizes and hosts a business and design conference on campus. The Council also offers and manages an annual grant fund of $15,000 to support creative and innovative campus sustainability initiatives.

Totes Isotoner Corporation
US.20180921-001 · Corporate body · 1910 (date of establishment)

ARIS»ISOTONER was a company founded in 1910 as the Aris Glove Company by three brothers, Arthur, Robert and Irwin Stanton. The company was taken over by Robert's son Lari, who ran the business from the 1940s and retired in 1993. The name was likewise changed to include the name of its leading product, the ISOTONER nylon/spandex glove that the company developed in the late 1960s.

US.20180702.077 · Corporate body · 1984 (date of establishment)

On February 6, 1984, an exhibition of 45 superb fashion drawings opened in the lobby of the Shirley Goodman Resource Center at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT). The show included works by storied illustrators Antonio (Lopez), Eric (Carl Ericson), and Esther Larson. An exciting mix of illustrators, art directors, collectors, and members of the College community attended the champagne reception. It was an auspicious inauguration of the Frances Neady Collection of original fashion illustrations.

Housed in the FIT Library’s unit of Special Collections, the collection was established in honor of an inspirational fashion illustration teacher who served on the faculties of Parsons School of Design and FIT for a total of 50 years before retiring in 1978. Soon after her death in 1982, two FIT faculty members and erstwhile Neady students, Rosemary Torre and Frederick Bennett, began working to create a permanent testimonial in her memory. This collection of twentieth-century fashion illustrations would be properly stored and maintained, and made available for students, faculty, and independent researchers to study.

Bennett and Torre chaired a committee that included noted illustrators (and FIT faculty) Alvin Pimsler, Morton Kaish, and Richard Ely as well as Richard Martin, a celebrated fashion scholar who curated exhibitions at what became The Museum at FIT and was later curator of The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute. The committee determined criteria for accessioning work. They looked for illustrators who set high standards of draftsmanship and aesthetic quality; demonstrated originality and technical virtuosity; worked for topflight stores, magazines and corporations; and earned the admiration of their peers.

Over the years, top illustrators and important donors contributed pieces. Esther Larson worked from the 1930s to 1995 for high-end stores including Lord and Taylor, Jacobson's, and Montaldo's as well as for Vogue and Harper's Bazaar. George Stavrinos created an unmistakable identity for Bergdorf Goodman. Harvey Boyd, FIT faculty member, was an artist for Vogue. Bob and Bertha Hermann filled Lord & Taylor ads with Cary-Grant- like figures. Kermit Adler, former Art Director at Lord & Taylor, donated drawings by Dorothy Hood, Fred Greenhill and Carl Wilson. Among the accessioned works are a rare nude by René Bouché and a series by Antonio that demonstrates the process by which an illustration is created.

In 1999, New York’s Society of Illustrators mounted an exhibition of highlights from the Neady collection, and The Museum at FIT included selections in its 2004 show The Artful Line. The Brandywine River Museum and what is now the New Britain Museum of American Art have also exhibited works, and Neady illustrations have appeared in important publications on fashion art: Illustrating Fashion, by noted illustrator Eunice Sloane; Fashion Illustration in New York, edited by Peter Sato; Antonio’s Girls; and 20th Century Fashion Illustration: The Feminine Ideal, by Rosemary Torre.

Today, the nucleus of 45 high-quality illustrations has grown to more than 300, and it continues to expand. Much of the collection has been digitized and is accessible on the Library website, and individuals can make an appointment through Special Collections to view the original pieces. The Frances Neady Collection continues to evolve, delight and, most appropriately, to instruct while offering a valuable overview of a specialized art field.

Leslie Fay Companies
US.20180817.001 · Corporate body · 1938 (date of establishment)

Leslie Fay was founded around 1938, incorporated in 1959, became a public company in 1967, and became "private" once again in 1982, at which time it was estimated to have achieved a volume of about $250,000,000. In 1993 the company experienced a severe accounting scandal, which forced it to declare bankruptcy. The company slowly recovered, however it never reached the same dominance as it previously had.

Marimekko Oy
US.20180702.076 · Corporate body · 1951 (date of establishment)

Marimekko Oy, established in 1951, is a Finnish textile and clothing design company renowned for its original prints and colors. The company designs and manufactures high-quality clothing, interior decoration textiles, bags and other accessories. Marimekko

Gimbel, Sophie, 1898-1981
20190214-001 · Person · 1898-1981

Sophie Gimbel, more well-known as Sophie of Saks, was born Sophie Hass in 1898 in Houston, Texas. She attended Agnes Scott College in Atlanta. In the late 1920s she moved to New York and was hired as a stylist at Saks Fifth Avenue. Shortly thereafter she was asked to re-vamp their foundering custom-order Salon Moderne. She was successful in this endeavor, as well as with her line of ready-to-wear, Sophie Originals. In 1931 she married Adam Gimbel who was president of Saks Fifth Avenue from 1926 to 1969. Sophie did not sketch her designs, rather, she used sketchers to assist with visualizing her ideas, or purchased designs from other designers and modified them. She enjoyed significant success, particularly in the 1940s, and her designs were noted for their elegance. Her clientele included Claudette Colbert, Rose Kennedy, and Mrs. Lyndon B. Johnson who wore a red coat and dress designed by Sophie Gimbel to her husband's inauguration in 1965. Sophie Gimbel retired in 1969 and passed away in 1981.

Lauren, David
US.20180914-003 · Person · 1971 October 11-

David Lauren is the son of Ricky Anne (née Loew-Beer) and fashion designer and executive Ralph Lauren. He is currently the Executive Vice President, Global Advertising, Marketing and Communications at Ralph Lauren Corporation.

Snow, Carmel, 1890-1961
US.20180702.060 · Person · 1887 August 21-1961 May 7

Carmel Snow was the editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar from 1934 to 1958. Born in Dublin, Ireland, Snow began her career as a fashion editor at Vogue. Snow's work at Harper's Bazaar lead to the introduction of many famous photographers and designers.

After retiring in 1957 at the age of 70, she became the chairperson of the editorial board. With Mary Louise Aswell, she wrote her autobiography, entitled "The World of Carmel Snow." It was published in 1962 by McGraw-Hill Book Co..

White, Nancy
US.20190323.001 · Person · 1916-2002

"...Nancy White was born in Brooklyn on July 25, 1916. Her father was in publishing and became general manager of Hearst magazines. She attended the Madeira School in Greenway, Va., where she and Katharine Graham, who was to become publisher of The Washington Post, became lifelong friends. She left Madeira to work during the Depression, her daughter said. At 15, she worked as an errand girl with a magazine, according to an interview with her in The New York Mirror in 1957. (She did not name the magazine.) She returned to the boarding school, and after graduation became an editorial assistant, or ''glorified errand girl,'' in her words, with the magazine Pictorial Review. Her next job, which lasted 16 years, was with Good Housekeeping magazine, where she started as an assistant in the fashion department and left as fashion editor. She joined Harper's as an assistant editor in 1957 and was appointed editor at the beginning of 1958. She was chosen by the previous editor, Carmel Snow, who happened to be her aunt. Diana Vreeland had been another candidate for the top job; she promptly quit. In 1962, Mrs. Vreeland joined Vogue, becoming a legend in the fashion world, and not incidentally Miss White's principal competitor. Under Miss White, Harper's was aimed at stylish women in Des Moines and Omaha as well as in New York and San Francisco. In one issue, 14 pages by Hiro showed models' bodies seeming to disintegrate beneath colorful prints. Yet in the same issue, there was page after black-and-white page of elegantly understated suits and coats. Her comments on pantsuits in a 1964 interview in The New York Times reflected the balance she sought between modernity and moderation. Although she would not wear one to the office herself, she said, pantsuits would be all right for her staff members if they wore ''perfect accessories.'' Miss White resigned in 1971 after James W. Brady, formerly publisher of Women's Wear Daily, was appointed publisher and editorial director of Harper's. Mr. Brady said it was Hearst's decision for him to modernize the magazine....After her resignation, Miss White advised Bergdorf Goodman on fashion for two years and devoted much of the rest of her life to charities, including Lighthouse for the Blind and the public television station WNET. She was first married to Clarence Dauphinot, founder of Deltec International, then to Ralph D. Paine Jr., publisher of Fortune magazine, and then George K. Thompson, her high school sweetheart. The first two marriages ended in divorce, and Mr. Thompson died in 1996....Ms. White had two daughters, Ms. Paine of Durham, N.H., and Gillette Piper of Coral Gables, Fla.; a stepdaughter, Mimi Thompson of Manhattan; a sister, Carmel Eitt of King George, Va.; a brother, John Michael White of Delray Beach, Fla.; three grandchildren; and three great-grandchildren." https://www.nytimes.com/2002/05/29/nyregion/nancy-white-85-dies-edited-harper-s-bazaar-in-the-60-s.html

At Harper's Bazaar, Ms. White edited a book celebrating the magazine's 100th anniversary. It was entitled "100 Women of Accomplishment" and was published by Hearst Corporation in 1967. She was a member of the National Council of the Arts (1966-1972) and is a member of the board of directors of General Mills.

Ms. White was born to a fashion and editorial career. Her father, Thomas J. White, was a power in the Hearst publishing empire, which included Harper;s Bazaar; while her aunt, Carmel White Snow, was the creative and authoritative editor of Harper's Bazaar for many years.

Mainbocher, 1891-1976
US.20180711.007 · Person · 1891-1976

Mainbocher (1891-1976) was the first American-born designer to work as a successful Paris couturier. He was also the first to transfer his business from France to America in 1940 at the outbreak of World War II. Before becoming a designer, he was an intelligence officer with the American forces, opera singer, staff artist at Harper's Bazaar and fashion editor turned editor-in-chief at Paris Vogue. He debuted his first collection in Paris in November 1930, and designed biannual collections in America from 1940 to 1971. Throughout his career, Mainbocher was known for his ageless style and quietly pursued his own private vision. He maintained his belief that "women ought to be investors, not speculators in fashion," and likened his clothes to museum pieces. Although he claimed he was not interested in setting trends or influencing the fashion world, his designs did just that.

He studied classical singing in Munich and Paris. He had intended to pursue an operatic career until overcome by severe stage fright. It was then that he turned his attention to fashion design as a career.

He introduced the strapless evening gown, designed uniforms for the Red Cross, the Waves, Spars, Girl Scouts. He made a success with elegant, wearable clothes; elegant evening gowns were his forte. He has been ranked with Molyneux, Schiaparelli, Lelong. His philosophy has been widely quoted: "The responsibility and challenge...is to consider the design and the woman at the same time. Woman should look beautiful rather than just trendful."

Amies, Hardy, 1909-2003
US.20180927-002 · Person · 1909-2003

Hardy Amies (1909-2003) was an English fashion designer. From 1952 to 1989, Aimes served as official dressmaker to Queen Elizabeth II. Aimes's fashion house was known for its classic, tailored post-war designs.

Felix
US.20190404.003 · Person

Photographer

Reutlinger, Charles
US.20190404.002 · Person · 1816-1881

"The founder of one of the most prominent Parisian photographic establishments, Reutlinger Studios, which operated from 1850 to 1937. The Reutlingers were a French family of German descent. The family photographic business was founded in Paris by Charles Reutlinger, and the studio became famous for its portraits of the actors, artists, musicians, composers, opera singers and ballet dancers of the period. In 1880, Charles handed over the studio to his brother, Emile Reutlinger." https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp82485/charles-reutlinger

US.20190412.001 · Person · 1882-1974

Artist André Édouard Marty was part the "Beau Brummels of the Brush," the core group of illustrators--and friends--at the heart of the magazine Gazette du bon ton. He was a premier, in-demand fashion illustrator of the period whose romantic, often contemplative, illustrations can be found in Modes et manieres d'aujourd hui, Femina, Vogue and Vanity Fair, to name a few. In 1925, he served on the jury of the now famous 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes. He also gained prestige as a book and poster illustrator during this period, and later as a set and costume designer.

Beer
US.20190412.003 · Corporate body · 1890-

Founded around 1890, the fashion house Beer was one of the four oldest in Paris, its only predecessors being Worth, Doucet, and Paquin. Designer Gustave Beer’s design philosophy was “conservative elegance for conservative customers,” which included the who’s who of international royalty. The former Czarina of Russia and queens of Belgium, Italy and Romania were patrons of the house, which was reputed to have the highest prices in Paris. The house was especially known for their evening gowns, rich embroideries, furs and lingerie. Founder, Gustave passed away in 1908 after which time Beer continued under the direction of Paul Trimbach and Monsieur Pierre, who served as the head designer into the 1920s.Merged with Drecoll in 1929 under the name Drecoll-Beer. Drecoll-Beer merged with House of Agnes in 1931, dropped Beer from name.

US.20190412.004 · Person · 1891-1981

After his hometown of Valladolid, Spain granted him a scholarship to study at the École des Beaux Arts, Benito moved to Paris in 1912. While completing his studies, he became part of a circle of Spanish artists that included Picasso and Juan Gris and was inspired by the nascent Cubist and Futurist art movements. A painter his whole life, Benito is best known for his illustration work for both French and American publications—Femina, Gazette du bon ton, Vogue and Vanity Fair—which necessitated him to split his time living between Paris and New York during the 1920s and 1930s. Hollywood celebrities, including Gloria Swanson, employed his talents as an interior designer and portraitist. He returned to his roots the last two decades of his life, living quietly as a painter in Valladolid.

Boutet de Monvel, Bernard
US.20190412.005 · Person · 1881-1949

Artist Bernard Boutet de Monvel was a respected painter, engraver and illustrator. He was one of the core contributors to Gazette du bon ton referred to as the "Beau Brummells of the Brush," but his statuesque, often-emotionless beauties are found in other fashion publications such as Journal des dames et des modes, Vogue and Harper's Bazaar. After the war, he also worked as a society portraitist and interior designer in Europe and the United States.

Bianchini-Férier (Firm)
US.20190412.006 · Corporate body · 1889-

The textile firm was founded in 1889 in the city of Lyon—the center of French luxury textile production since the days of Louis XIV. Bianchini-Férier set the industry standard with innovative and novel fabrics and cultivated a close relationship with the couture industry. Many of their most innovative fabrics, such as silk charmeuse and crepe georgette, were designed specifically for their use in couture gowns. From 1912 to 1928, the company collaborated with artist and designer Raoul Dufy whose bold, distinctive patterns often played out within the pages of Gazette du bon ton. The company survives to this day, albeit under a different name: in 1992, it was taken over by Tissages Bauman and later by Cédric Brochier.

Camille Roger
US.20190412.007 · Corporate body · 1885-

Formed by its namesake in 1885, the millinery firm Camille Roger was considered one of the finest hat-making establishments in Paris for decades. Roger, herself, eschewed the limelight brought by the renown of her hats, and fostered a familial atmosphere within her establishment; her employees were fiercely loyal to their boss who demanded the utmost quality of workmanship and personally inspected each model produced. After her death in 1905, the house was headed by a succession of female directors, most notably Madame Prisca during the 1920s and 1930s.

Chéruit
US.20190412.009 · Corporate body · 1900-1936

The Maison Cheruit was one of the premiere couture houses of the early 20th century, founded by Louise Chéruit in 1906. Chéruit was one of the original sponsors of the luxury fashion magazine Gazette du bon ton, and during WWI was one of a handful of couture houses that remained open. In 1914, a scandal regarding her Austrian lover forced Chéruit to flee Paris, leaving her business in the hands of Julie Wormser and Louise Boulanger. The house remained open, under the direction of various designers, until 1935 when Elsa Schiaparelli took over the premises for her own couture business.

Dœuillet
US.20190412.010 · Corporate body · 1900-

The couture house Dœuillet opened its doors in 1900 on the place Vendôme, Paris, the same year several of the house’s debut designs were featured in the Exposition Universelle. The founder of the house, twenty-five year old Georges Dœuillet had parlayed his former career as a silk merchant into his own business with the financial backing of Benjamin Guggenheim, which may explain why so many of Dœuillet’s clients were wealthy American women. The house was especially known for their robe-de-style, which was the equivalent of the modern day cocktail dress.

Doucet
US.20190412.011 · Corporate body · 1818-1928

Doucet was founded around 1818 as a purveyor of lace and lingerie and existed as a family enterprise until 1871, when Jacques Doucet converted the business into a couture house. The house’s creations often incorporated the fine laces, for which Doucet was already known, as well as bead and featherwork. Some of the era’s most famous women including the actress Réjane and the celebrated courtesan Liane de Pougy were Doucet patrons.

As an individual, Jacque cultivated the persona of connoisseur: an oenophile, gourmand and important collector of eighteenth century and modern art. His air of aficionado made a strong impression on a young Paul Poiret, who entered the employ of Doucet in 1897, as would another soon-to-be luminary of twentieth century fashion, Madeleine Vionnet, in 1907. By the 1920s however, the house’s relevance was on the decline, and following Jacque’s death, Doucet merged with Dœuillet to become Dœuillet-Doucet in 1928.

Drian
US.20190412.012 · Person · 1885-1961

Artist Étienne Adrien Drian was a staple of fashion illustration during the early 1900s when he enjoyed international fame and success, notably through his high profile collaborations with celebrities such as Gaby Deslys and Cecil Sorel, whom he also called friends. Known simply as "Drian," the monicker with which he signed his work, he illustrated for magazines such as Journal des dames et des modes, Gazette du bon ton, Vogue and Femina. He also illustrated books and worked as a set and costume designer for the Casino de Paris.

Sacchetti, Enrico
US.20190412.013 · Person · 1877-1967

Born in Rome in 1877, Enrico Sacchetti followed his father’s wishes and graduated with a degree in math and physics, despite the fact he dreamed of becoming an artist. His art training was informal, gained by apprenticing in the studios of Florentine painters and printmakers, where he had attended school. After briefly working as a satirical illustrator in Milan and Argentina, Sacchetti found his way to Paris where he was introduced to the world of fashion illustration in 1912, contributing to periodicals such as Gazette du bon ton and La Vie Parisienne. His album, Robes et femmes which satirized contemporary fashions of the day, was released in 1913. The outbreak of WWI forced Sacchetti back to his native Italy where he continued to work as an illustrator for humor journals, satirical newspapers and children’s books.

Siméon, Fernand, 1884-1928
US.20190412.014 · Person · 1884-1928

A native Parisian, Siméon studied at the École des Arts Décoratifs and quickly became known for his facility in creating woodblock prints. The fashion illustrations he contributed to Gazette du bon ton and Modes et manières d’auhourd’hui were rendered as woodcuts and then printed using the pochoir process. He created woodcut illustrations for dozens of books including works by Anatole France, Edgar Allen Poe, Voltaire and Oscar Wilde.

Fourrures Max
US.20190412.015 · Corporate body · circa 1904-

Advertisements for the elite French furrier, Fourrures Max first begin to appear in fashion magazines around 1904, with an additional attribution to Leroy & Schmid. Presumably, Schmid was the male business partner of Madame André Leroy, and perished in WWI. After his death, Madame Leroy served as the sole director and lead designer of Fourrures Max. The house garnered a reputation for the ultra-modern aesthetic infused into its fur garments, and the cutting-edge interiors of its Parisian fur salons. Abroad, original Fourrures Max creations, as well as adaptations the house’s designs, were retailed in the United States at high-end department stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue and Bonwit Teller.

The Queen
US.20190412.016 · Corporate body · 1861-2006

The Queen was a magazine that was launched in 1861 by English publisher Samuel Beeton. Together with his wife, Isabella, they also published the best-selling Victorian ladies’ manual Mrs. Beeton’s Guide to Household Management. The success of this volume led to the creation of a whole line of other guides on various topics including needlework, folk remedies, flora and fauna, culinary arts, gardening and history. Other publications under his imprint included The Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine (which we also hold) and The Boy’s Own Magazine, which was one of the first influential magazines aimed at adolescents. At the age of 22, he was the first British publisher to put out Harriet Beecher Stowe’s Uncle Tom’s Cabin, concurrently with its first publication in the US.

Beeton was forced to sell most of his copyrights to avoid bankruptcy in the 1870s, after the death of his wife, who was a creative partner and writer for many of his projects. At this time, The Queen was sold to a handful of publishing entities and continued to run as a high society magazine with in depth coverage of British aristocracy until the late 1950s when it was acquired by Jocelyn Stevens. Stevens dropped “The” from the title and reconceived the magazine for a younger, hip audience who was embodied by an imaginary reader named Caroline—a pretty, red headed high school dropout who was more interested in casual sex than she was in pursuing an education or a traditional path of marriage and children. At this point, Queen became a voice for swinging London’s youth-driven underground culture. The small Chelsea boutiques run by “Youthquake” fashion designers such as Mary Quant were regularly featured among its pages and the magazine ran early photographs of the model/icon of the era Twiggy, which were shot by legendary fashion photographer David Bailey.

Stephens’ liberal views translated into the political realm as well. When the British government issued a report condemning the future of commercial broadcasting—both radio and television¬—Stephens helped to fund an off-shore, ship-based radio station that blasted the type of young, hip programming which was all but banned from British radio at the time. Named Radio Caroline, after the Queen’s imaginary muse, the pirate radio station’s target audience was much the same as the magazine’s and initially Radio Caroline’s offices operated out of the Queen’s. Radio Caroline, and other pirate radio stations like it, reached an estimated 20 million Brits and were a critical platform for the rock ‘n roll revolution as many bands such as the Stones received their first airtime via these pirate radio stations, which were the subject of the 2009 feature film, Pirate Radio.

In 1970 interests in Queen were sold to the UK edition of Harper’s Bazaar, which was then issued as Harper’s & Queen until 2006 when Queen was dropped from the title to bring the British edition in line with its sister publications from around the globe, which are titled, simply Harper’s Bazaar.

Bravo, Rosemarie
US.20181207-008 · Person

Rose Marie Bravo serves as the director of Godiva Chocolatier NV, director of Proenza Schouler, LLC 1997-Present, independent Director of Tiffany & Co. 2003-Present, director of The Estée Lauder Companies Inc.

Aiken, Lawrence
US.20181207-007 · Person

President and CEO of Sanofi Beaute, Lawrence Aiken began working in the fragrance industry in 1980.

Preston, James
US.20181207-006 · Person

James E. Preston served as the Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of Avon Products Inc. from January 1989 to June 1998 and as its President from November 1988 to June 1998. Mr. Preston serves as the Chairman of Avon International Operations Inc. He has served on many other boards and positions of well known companies.

Wegener, Gerda
US.20190413.001 · Person · 1885-1940

Born in Denmark in 1885, Wegener studied art at the Academie des Beaux-Arts in Copenhagen. In 1912, she relocated to Paris with her former teacher and husband, the painter Einar Wegener. Gerda found success almost immediately working as an illustrator for fashion magazines including Journal des dames et des modes, La Baïonnette, La Guirlande, and La Vie Parisienne. Commissions poured in for Wegener, who also worked as a portrait painter and illustrator for numerous volumes of erotica, which are now highly sought-after by collectors of the genre. The Wegeners’ marriage was annulled by the King of Denmark after Einar became the first recorded recipient of a gender reassignment surgery, yet the former spouses remained close. Gerda would later remarry and live in Morocco with her new husband before returning to Denmark, where she died in relative anonymity in 1940.

US.20190413.002 · Person · 1876-1915

The Spanish artist who received his artistic training in Barcelona first visited Paris in 1900 to view that year’s Exposition Universelle. Enraptured with the bohemian art scene of Montparnasse, Gosé would alternate living between Paris and Barcelona for the next fifteen years, working as a painter and illustrator. A regular contributor to the early years of Gazette du bon ton, Gosé’s work is noticeably absent in the latter issues; the artist suffered from a chronic respiratory condition and died prematurely, in his hometown of Lérida, at the age of 39.

Perdriat, Hélène
US.20190413.004 · Person · 1894-1969

The artistic talents of Hélène Perdriat are believed to have been discovered by couturier and art collector Jacques Doucet. As a young woman, Perdriat had come to Paris from her hometown of La Rochelle, France with the hopes of becoming a writer. After contracting consumption, and not expecting to survive, Perdriat felt compelled to create a self-portrait, which launched her artistic career. Especially known for her paintings of women, Perdriat also worked as an illustrator, engraver set and costume designer, in addition to writing poetry.

Drésa, Jacques
US.20190413.005 · Person · 1869-1929

Born in Versailles, Jacques Drésa is best known as for his textile and tapestry designs. One of the older and more frequent contributors to Gazette du bon ton, Drésa also worked as a set and costume designer for the Paris Opéra and the Théâtre des Arts.

Davis, Miles
US.20190516.005 · Person · 1926 May 26-1991 September 28

"Over six full decades, from his arrival on the national scene in 1945 until his death in 1991, Miles Davis made music that grew from an uncanny talent to hear the future and a headstrong desire to play it. From his beginnings in the circle of modern jazz, he came to intuit new worlds of sound and challenge. While the vast majority of musicians – jazz, rock, R&B, otherwise – find the experimental charge and imperviousness of youth eventually running down, Miles forever forged ahead, trusting and following instinct until the end.

In doing so, Miles became the standard bearer for successive generations of musicians, shaped the course of modern improvisational music more than a half-dozen times. This biography attempts to explain those paradigm-shifts one after another, through his recordings and major life changes.

The factors leading to that process are now the foundation of the Miles Davis legend: the dentist’s son born in 1926 to middle-class comfort in East St Louis. The fresh acolyte learning trumpet in the fertile, blues-drenched music scene of his hometown. The sensitive soul forging a seething streetwise exterior that later earned him the title, Prince Of Darkness. The determined teenager convincing his parents to send him to New York’s famed Juilliard School of Music in 1944, a ploy allowing him to locate and join the band of his idol, bebop pioneer Charlie Parker.

It wasn’t long before the headstrong young arrival grew from sideman to leading his own projects and bands of renown, from the restrained, classical underpinning of the famous “Birth of the Cool” group (Miles’ first foray with arranger Gil Evans), to the blues-infused hardbop anthem “Walkin’”, to his first famous quintet (Coltrane, Chambers, Red Garland, Philly Joe Jones) with whom his recordings on muted trumpet helped him develop a signature sound that broke through to mainstream recognition. His subsequent jump from recording with independent labels (Prestige, Blue Note) to Columbia Records, then the Tiffany of record companies, propelled his career further from a limited jazz audience and a series of late ‘50s albums (Miles Ahead, Porgy & Bess, Miles Ahead, Kind of Blue and Sketches of Spain) secured his widespread popularity.

Miles’ group shifted and morphed through the early ‘60s until he settled for a four-year run with his classic quintet, a lineup that is still hailed today as one of the greatest and most influential jazz groups of all time. Their albums together — from Miles Smiles, ESP and Nefertiti, to Miles In The Sky, and Filles de Kilimanjaro — traced a pattern of unparalleled growth and innovation.

Had Miles stopped his progress at that point, he’d still be hailed as one of the greatest pioneers in jazz, but his creative momentum from the end of the ‘60s into the ‘70s would not let up. He was listening to the world around him — the amplified explosion of rock bands and the new, heavy-on-the-one funk of James Brown and Sly & The Family Stone. From the ambient hush of In A Silent Way, to the strange and unsettling – yet wildly popular Bitches Brew, he achieved another shift in musical paradigm and a personal career breakthrough.

Bitches Brew was controversial, a best-seller and attracted another, younger generation into the Miles fold. Thousands whose musical taste respected no categorical walls flocked to hear Miles, and a slew of fusion bands were soon spawned, led by his former sidemen: Weather Report, Mahavishnu Orchestra, Return To Forever. The studio albums that defined Miles’ kaleidoscopic sound in the ‘70s included a series of (mostly) double albums, from …Brew to 1971’s Live-Evil, ‘72’s On The Corner and ‘75’s Get Up With It. The covers listed populous line-ups that reached up to 11 musicians, adding new names to an ever-widening circle of on-call talent.

By the end of 1975, Miles was tired – and sick. A period of seclusion ensued, full years to deal with personal demons and health issues, bouncing between bouts of self-abuse and boredom. It was the longest time Miles had been off the public radar – only amplifying the appetite for his return.

When Miles reappeared in 1981, expectation had reached fever pitch. A final series of albums for Columbia reflected his continuing fascination with funk of the day (Rose Royce, Cameo, Chaka Khan and later, Prince), and the sounds of synthesizer and drum machines (Great Miles Shift Number 8). The Man With A Horn, We Want Miles and Decoy found him still working with Teo Macero and still surrounding himself with young talent, including bassist Darryl Jones (Rolling Stones). In 1985, his album You’re Under Arrest — with unexpected covers of recent pop charters (Michael Jackson’s “Human Nature” and Cyndi Lauper’s “Time After Time”) – brought the long Davis-Columbia association to a close. He embarked on a new relationship with Warner Bros. Records and producer Tommy LiPuma, scoring successes with Tutu (written in a large part by his bassist Marcus Miller), Music from Siesta (also with Miller), Amandla (featuring a new breed of soloists, including alto saxophonist Kenny Garrett, tenor saxophonist Rick Margitza, guitarist Jean-Paul Bourelly, keyboardist Joey DeFrancesco, and others) and Doo-Bop (his collaboration with hip hop producer Easy Moe Bee.)

Those titles proved Miles’ farewell, still pushing forward, still exploring new musical territory. Throughout his career, he had always resisted looking back, avoiding nostalgia and loathing leftovers. “It’s more like warmed-over turkey,” the eternal modernist described the music of Kind of Blue twenty-five years after recording it. Ironically, in 1991, only weeks after performing a career-overview concert in Paris that featured old friends and collaborators from as early as the ‘40s, he died from a brain aneurysm.

Like his music, Miles always spoke with an economy of expression. And for Miles, it had to be fresh, or forget it. “I don’t want you to like me because of Kind of Blue,” he insisted. “Like me for what we’re doing now.”" https://www.milesdavis.com/biography/

US.20190520.001 · Person · 1902-1971

"Thomas E. Dewey; in full: Thomas Edmund Dewey; born March 24, 1902 in Owosso, Mich.; died March 16, 1971 in Bal Harbour, Fla.; a vigorous American prosecuting attorney whose successful racket-busting career won him three terms as governor of New York (1943-1955); a longtime Republican leader, he was his party’s presidential nominee in 1944 and 1948 but lost in both elections; he graduated from the University of Michigan in 1923 and received a law degree from Columbia University in 1925; was admitted to the New York bar in 1926 and launched his government career five years later as chief assistant to the U.S. attorney for the southern district of the state; between 1935 and 1937 he garnered national attention as special prosecutor in an investigation of organized crime in New York; he obtained 72 convictions out of 73 prosecutions of long-established racketeers; was elected district attorney in 1937; at the end of his third term as governor (1955), Dewey returned to a lucrative private law practice; he remained a close adviser to Republican administrations but thought his age precluded acceptance of an offer by President Nixon in 1968 to serve as chief justice of the United States."

Einstein, Albert, 1879-1955
US.20190520.005 · Person · 1879-1955

"Albert Einstein was born in Ulm, Germany on March 14, 1879; Einstein emigrated to the United States in the autumn of 1933 and took up residence in Princeton, New Jersey and a professorship at the prestigious Institute for Advanced Study. Today, the practical applications of Einstein’s theories include the development of the television, remote control devices, automatic door openers, lasers, and DVD-players."

Engles, Joe
US.20190520.005 · Person
Margé, Madame, 1878-1950
US.20190624-002 · Person · 1878-1950

Madame Margé (Mrs. Marguerite Norlin Faupel), a lauded American fashion designer who won the Com Pugh Gold Prize, the Gossard Trophy, and the Mallison Cup, lived from 1878-1950. She made models for fashion houses (Skinner, Cheney, American Woolen Co.) and retail stores (Wannamaker and Marshall Field) and worked as a fashion consultant to Broadway and Hollywood. She operated a Chicago shop and a New York studio on Madison Avenue. Her 1936-1937 Javanese Batik collection--in particular, her famous 'sarong dress'--was shown in NY, Chicago, and Hollywood and contributed to a trend for Asiatic textiles within the fashion industry.

Lerner, Norman
US.20190624-003 · Person · 1927-

Born in 1927, Norman Lerner is a fashion and commercial photographer who worked extensively in New York City between the 1950s to the 1970s. His work appeared in major publications including GQ, Glamour, Popular Photography and the New York Times. His work has been included in exhibitions at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, MoMA and various other art institutions around the United States. Lerner was the first Chair of the Fashion Design program at the Fashion Institute of Technology and a Professor Emeritus of the California Polytechnic State University.

Dudley, Robert
US.201900625.002 · Person · 1905-1992

Robert Dudley (1905-1992) was a New York-based American millinery designer best known for his collections of women's hats popular in the 1940s and 1950s. Dudley operated the Chez Robert hat salon within Saks Fifth Avenue as well as his own shop, Robert Dudley Originals, on the Upper East Side of Manhattan. His clientele included Broadway actress and society figures. Dudley designed the hats for several films, including the 1940 Hitchcock film "Rebecca." He worked as an interior designer in the latter part of his life.

Continental Airlines
US.20190715.001 · Corporate body · 1934 -

"Continental Airlines was a major United States airline founded in 1934 and eventually headquartered in Houston, Texas. It had ownership interests and brand partnerships with several carriers. Continental started out as one of the smaller carriers in the United States, known for its limited operations under the regulated era. Post 1978, Continental grew into one of the country's largest carriers despite facing financial troubles and other issues, eventually becoming one of the more successful airlines in the United States. The airline merged with UAL Corporation (the parent company of United Airlines) via a stock swap in 2010. Continental's shares were acquired by UAL Corporation; the re-organized holding company was renamed United Continental Holdings. During the integration period, each airline ran a separate operation under the direction of a combined leadership team, based in Chicago. The integration was completed on March 3, 2012. Although the merged airline retained the United name, it uses Continental's operating certificate and livery. On Thursday June 27, 2019 United changed its parent company name from United Continental Holdings to United Airlines Holdings." https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continental_Airlines

US.20190723.001 · Corporate body · circa 1930s

Chambre Syndicale des Teinturiers was a professional organization which governed the dye trades in France.