Showing 1757 results

Authority record

Armani, Giorgio

  • US.20200201.013
  • Person
  • 1934-

Italian fashion designer. Armani was dubbed the ‘Sexy Tailor’ by the American fashion press for sartorial innovations he introduced in menswear. He brought sensual drape to traditional suit coats by eliminating rigid interlinings that had shaped and restricted men’s clothing in the 1970s. To complement his new softly-tailored coats, he created short, supple, collared shirts and textural, patterned ties. Armani’s impact on menswear went beyond unstructured sewing techniques to include a serene color palette inspired by the Italian artist Giorgio Morandi. The neutral earth tones included an inventive grey–beige (‘greige’), moss, mushroom and smoky grey–blue, tones not seen before in menswear. Armani claimed to be ‘the stylist without color’. Armani also brought a feminine touch to menswear and eventually expanded his design aesthetic to women’s clothing, bringing a powerful look to women’s fashion. His minimal modernism in cut and fit, while retaining maximum impact in silhouette and color, stimulated the fashion imagination of Hollywood, retailers, journalists and customers of both sexes.

Love of stage and cinema inspired Armani throughout his career, proving to be the catalyst to his future international recognition. After studying medicine, he completed his military service in the Army infirmary but sought civilian work more compatible with his temperament. In 1957 Armani went to work at La Rinascente, Milan, Italy’s most important fashion store, where his innovative visual merchandising skills earned him a promotion to their style office. Armani travelled extensively to select unique products for the store. He attracted the attention of Nino Cerutti (b 1930), an Italian textile and clothing manufacturer known for textured fabrics and sophisticated use of color. Armani was hired to design a ready-to-wear wholesale men’s line: Hitman. With a strong sense of style, color, packaging and promotion, but no formal training, Armani succeeded at Hitman for eight years.

Armani’s career shifted to entrepreneur and designer when he met Sergio Galeotti, his business and life partner, in the late 1960s. Both men launched the label Giorgio Armani, SpA on 24 July 1975. Armani was among a group of new Italian designers featured at Barney’s, New York in 1976. He also began cultivating contacts in Hollywood; his involvement in the 1980 film American Gigolo was a significant factor in launching Armani’s fame in a global fashion market. Acknowledging Milan as the chicest place for menswear, Paul Schrader, director of American Gigolo, selected Armani to outfit Richard Gere in his role as the urbane paid escort, Julian Kaye. Critics praised the exciting and original wardrobe of the star of the film, and enthusiasts could concurrently purchase the clothing they had just seen on screen in retail stores. Through this film, Armani’s popularity in the US was established, and afterwards, Saks Fifth Avenue premièred his first collection designed expressly for America. Armani was also the first designer to open an office in Los Angeles expressly to increase his celebrity clientele and his presence at the prestigious Academy Award ceremonies.

Recognizing the importance of the feminist movement, Armani drew inspiration from his mother’s simple, dignified style and his sister Rosanna’s penchant for wearing men’s jackets. Crossing gender boundaries, he used his signature minimalist tailoring techniques, softer textiles and earthy colors to create women’s ‘power suits’ that were also feminine. In 1979 Armani received the distinguished Neiman Marcus Fashion Award for interpreting his catwalk aesthetic for mass consumers worldwide. Hollywood’s most admired leading ladies also chose Armani for red carpet galas, making both his gowns and tuxedos the most sought-after (see fig.).

After the death of Sergio Galeotti in 1985, Armani assumed control of his business, expanding the Armani imprint into a comprehensive lifestyle aesthetic, from spectacles to home furnishings. As an astute and democratic businessman, Armani expanded his brand by launching diffusion lines: Emporio Armani for clothing at a level below couture and A/X for designer denim and casual T-shirts; both offered status dressing to a mass audience. In 2000, Armani’s achievement was recognized with a retrospective exhibition at the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum in New York. One of the most successful global enterprises, Giorgio Armani is a privately held and owner-managed business. Armani’s goal was ‘to find a way to make and wear clothes for a time that was less formal but that still yearned for style’ (exh. cat., p. 254) and he has succeeded in artfully capturing the essence of late 20th and early 21st century clothing desires.

Arnold, Rebecca

  • US.20220325.033
  • Person
  • 1968 or 1969-

Rebecca Arnold was educated at King’s College, London (BA Hons History, 1990), The Courtauld Institute of Art (MA History of Dress, 1993) and University College London (PhD, 2006). Before joining The Courtauld Institute of Art in 2009 as a Senior Lecturer in History of Dress & Textiles, she was a Research Fellow and Lecturer in the History of Design Department at the Royal College of Art and a Visiting Fellow at the Victoria and Albert Museum. In 2006, she was the first Guest Professor at the Centre for Fashion Studies at Stockholm University. In 2001, she set up and ran the BA (Hons) Fashion History and Theory at Central Saint Martin’s College of Art and Design.

Her current book project, Documenting Fashion: Modernity and Image in America, 1920-60 considers dress in relation to popular visual culture and through the lens of sensory theory, history of emotion, and memory studies.

Aston Magna Foundation for Music

  • US.20200118.016
  • Corporate body
  • 1972-

The Aston Magna Foundation sponsors educational programs that bring to communities the study of music and other arts of the 17th, 18th, and early 19th centuries and organized performances at various concert halls.

Astor, Josef, 1959-

  • US.20210331.001
  • Person
  • 1959-

Photographer and filmmaker.

Autry, Gene, 1907-1998

  • US.20180702.003
  • Person
  • 1907-1998

Orvon Gene Autry was born on September 29th, 1907 in Tioga, Texas. His father was a cattle buyer, farmer, and preacher. Autry learned how to ride horses and play the guitar at a young age. Late in his teens, Autry worked as a telegrapher. His interest in show business began one night while working in Chelsea, Oklahoma. The actor Will Rogers came in to the depot Autry was working in, saw the guitar near the young man, and asked him to play. After hearing Autry, Rogers encouraged him to try to find work on the radio. After being turned down for work in New York, Autry got his first job in radio at a radio station in Tulsa. In 1928, Autry was back in New York but this time to record a song which became successful. This got Autry a contract with Columbia Records. His film career began six years after he cut his first record. Throughout the mid- and late-1930s, Autry's star kept rising. His cowboy persona was well regarded by both kids and adults. From 1938 to 1932, he was one of the top ten box-office draws in the nation. Autry continued to record music and star in films in the 1940s and 1950s, only retiring in 1964 at the age of 57. Gene Autry is perhaps best known as the singer of the original "Rudolf the Rednosed Reindeer," the second best-selling song in history. In addition to his work in the entertainment business, Autry owned a handful of profitable properties. Gene Autry passed away on October 2nd, 1998 at the age of 91.

Avedon, Richard

  • US.20200404.024
  • Person
  • 1923-2004

As one of the most prolific and celebrated fashion photographers of the 20th century, Richard Avedon seemed destined for a career in the fashion industry. Born on May 15, 1923 in New York, NY, Avedon had fashion in his blood. His father was the owner of a Manhattan clothing store while his mother's family owned a dress manufacturing business. As a young boy, he pored over fashion magazines. Avedon attended Columbia University for a year before dropping out after being hired as a photographer by Merchant Marines. Avedon left Merchant Marines in 1944 and began apprenticing under Alexey Brodovitch, the art director at Harper's Bazaar, at his Design Laboratory at The New School. At the age of 22, Avedon's work began appearing in fashion magazines, first in Junior Bazaar in 1945 then in Harper's Bazaar a year later. Avedon was soon hired as a staff photographer and soon after, was sent to Paris by Brodovitch to cover the fashion shows. Avedon began experimenting with location during his time in Paris, often bringing models to Parisian Cafes or nightclubs. One of his most remembered photographs came about in 1955 when he posed models alongside circus elephants. While displaying talent for on-site photography, Avedon prefered to shoot in his studio, where he could draw out and focus on the emotive presence of his sitters. In the mid 1960s, Avedon left Harper's Bazaar for Vogue. Avedon continued a professional relationship with Vogue into the 1980s, shooting almost all of the cover images for the magazine. During this time, Avedon continued to garner acclaim from the art world for his work. MoMA exhibited his series depicting his terminally-ill father in 1973. The Metropolitan Museum of Art hosted a retrospective of Avedon's work two years later. After leaving Vogue in 1988, Avedon continued to work in photography. In 1992, The New Yorker hired Avedon as their first staff photographer. A year later, he published his autobiography. Richard Avedon passed away on October 1, 2004 while on assignment in San Antonio, TX. He was 81 years old.


  • US.20201204.015
  • Corporate body

Avon Products, Inc.

  • US.20220408.040
  • Corporate body
  • 1886-

Avon Products, Inc. manufactures and markets cosmetics and beauty-related products. Its product categories are Beauty, Fashion, and Home. The Beauty category consists of color cosmetics, fragrances, skincare, and personal care. The Fashion category consists of fashion jewelry, watches, apparel, footwear, accessories and children’s products. The Home category consists of gift and decorative products, housewares, entertainment and leisure products, and nutritional products. The company operates through five geographical segments: Latin America; North America; Central & Eastern Europe; Western Europe, Middle East & Africa, and Asia Pacific. Avon Products was founded by David H. McConnell in 1886 and is headquartered in New York, NY.“

Axelrod, Norman

  • US.20181109-006
  • Person

Norman Axelrod had been at Bloomingdale's for eleven years, and was the Senior Vice President and General Merchandise Manager at the time of this interview. Axelrod started in the summer of 1976 as a retail trainee and continued to work at Bloomingdale's into 1987, at which point he became the president and CEO of Linens 'n Things in 1988.

Babani, Vitaldi

  • US.20180702.113
  • Person

Vitaldi Babani was born in the Middle East but worked primarily in France. Babani's sold and designed goods that were inspired by his Middle-Eastern heritage. When designers like Paul Poiret began appropriating the Middle East aesthetic, Babani's store had already been in business for over two decades. Babani was one of the first stores to sell Fortuny's revolutionary designs. Shortly after showing Fortuny's garments, Babani began designing their own clothes for the store. Babani perfume was sold through Elizabeth Arden in the U.S.

Bacall, Lauren, 1924-2014

  • US.20200321.008
  • Person
  • 1924-2014

Lauren Bacall was an acclaimed actress, working in Hollywood for over half a century. Born Betty Joan Perske in the Bronx, New York in 1924, Bacall took the Romanian form of her mother's last name when her parents divorced in 1930. Bacall attended the American Academy of Dramatic Arts in New York, modeling on the side to pay for classes. In 1943, at the age of 18, Bacall found herself on the cover of Harper's Bazaar. The cover caught the attention of Slim Hawks, wife of the Hollywood producer Howard Hawks, who persuaded her husband to bring the young model to Hollywood for a screen test. During the test, Hawks instructed Bacall to speak in a lower register, which became Bacall's signature. Hawks cast Bacall in To Have and To Have Not in 1944. The film became a massive success and helped propel Bacall to stardom. On the set of that film, she met her future husband, Humphrey Bogart. The two married within a year of meeting and would remain so until Bogart's death in 1957. In addition to To Have and To Have Not, the couple starred in three other films together between 1946 and 1948. Bacall would continue her career in Hollywood throughout the 20th and early 21st century. The actress also worked on Broadway, winning a Tony Award in 1970 for her performance in Applause. Lauren Bacall passed away on August 12, 2014 at the age of 89.

Bader, Irving

  • US.20200328.014
  • Person
  • 1915-1996

Irving Bader, and his brother Nat, ran Originala, a high-end Seventh Avenue suit and coat house, founded by their father Louis Bader. The company went public in 1961.

Bader, Louis

  • US.20211023.002
  • Person

Founder of Originala, Inc.

Bader, Nat

  • US.20200328.015
  • Person
  • 1907-2000

Nat Bader, and his brother Irving, ran Originala, a high-end Seventh Avenue suit and coat house, founded by their father Louis Bader. The company went public in 1961.

Badgley Mischka (Firm)

  • US.20200804.019
  • Corporate body

Badgley Mischka is a fashion house launched by Mark Badgley and James Mischka in 1988. Their focus is on sophisticated and wearable evening wear and accessories.

Baghsarian, Arsho

  • US.20181012-011
  • Person

Arsho Baghsarian was born in Turkey to Armenian parents and immigrated to the United States in 1957, during her teen years, eager to study design. She would receive her Bachelor of Fine Arts degree with honors in fashion design From the Pratt Institute in New York in 1962.
That same year, after she competed in a competition for best student fashion design among the top ten fashion students in the country and received the prestigious annual N.Y. Fashion Designer Celanese Award, Baghsarian briefly designed sportswear on 7th Avenue. However, a phone call from former professor Laura Tosato Busgang was the catalyst that caused the young woman, who during adolescence had cut out and laced cardboard soles with bright ribbons, to begin what would become a successful career spanning more than forty-five years in the footwear industry. The phone call concerned a position with Genesco that was designed to reinvigorate it Christian Dior, a position Baghsarian gladly accepted in 1963. Six months later the Christian Dior division of Genesco merged with I Miller, another division of Genesco. Baghsarian took over design for the new label until 1969. Before leaving the label and pursuing other projects within the footwear industry, Baghsarian received the Pellon Award, as well as won the Leather Industries of America’s American Shoe Designer Award in the women’s best footwear category in 1968.
From 1969 to 1971, Baghsarian designed for Andrew Geller’s Etcetera & Adlib lines. After she teamed up with Jerry Miller and helped design his Margaret Jerrold and Shoe Biz lines. (Jerry Miller’s grandfather founded I. Miller, which he worked for until I. Miller was bought by Genesco and he started his own line.) She credits her fifteen years at the company as having a huge influence on her career years at the company run by Jerry Miller—credits him as having huge influence on her career since Miller’s Margaret Jerrold, Shoe Strings and Shoe Biz lines had her creating footwear in factories around the world from Spain to Italy to France and even becoming the first company to make fashion sandals at a price in mainland China. Miller was so impressed by Arsho’s work he created the Arsho for Shoe Biz label. The title of the line was fitting for a designer who did not remain behind the scenes and preferred instead to present her designs at trunk shows, such as at Lord & Taylor and Bonwit Teller and be on a first-name basis with customers.
In 1986 until 2008, Baghsarian designed for Stuart Weitzman & Company. During this time she also designed a couture line under the Arsho label, however, her talent led to Weitzman awarding her the label Arsho for Stuart Weitzman. She became the first full-time designer he collaborated with on his collection, which was not limited to casual stretch shoes, thongs, sneakers, mules, clogs, fur and mouton boots, bridal shoes and evening footwear complete with with pave stones and jeweled architectural heels. Within the company, Baghsarian was able to fully express her creativity, whether displaying her affinity for whimsical designs or her taste for glamor.
In January 2008, Baghsarian retired from the footwear industry and was inducted into Footwear News Hall of Fame. She now divides her time between Manhattan and Southhampton with her husband of more than forty years, fashion photographer and sculptor Avedis Baghsarian. Despite her retirement, she admits she will never stop designing.

Bailey, Glenda

  • US.20220318.086
  • Person
  • 1958 November 16
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