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Layton, Joe
US.20201014.021 · Personne
Wood, Judy
US.20201001.006 · Personne · Unknown

Immigration attorney Judith L. Wood, has championed immigrants' rights for families and has persecuted individuals troughout the world for over 35 years.

Miss Nannette
US.20201215.58 · Collectivité · Unknown

The Nannette Manufacturing Company was a childrensware firm, offering designs from toddles to teens, founded by Leo M. Rosenau.

Maximilian Furs
US.20201215.68 · Collectivité · 1922-?

Maximilian Furs was first established by the brother and sister team of Maximilian Apfelbaum and Anna Maximilian in 1922. The fur techniques used by the company created garments of the highest quality which resulted in the success of the brand. They catered to many rich and famous people across Europe who came to the house for custom fit fur garments.

Hampton Coat Co.
US.20210129.007 · Collectivité · 1925 - circa 1940

Founded in 1925 by Helen Cookman, Isadore Appel and A. Silverstein, Hampton Coat Co. was a 7th Avenue manufacturer of coats and suits. Cookman originally served as Vice President and Sales Manager until she bought out her two partners in 1928. in 1930, Cookman took on the role of head designer and the company moved its operations from 251 W. 36th St. to the more exclusive custom district, taking up residence at 15 W. 47th St. in 1931. Even amid the Great Depression, the company remained firmly committed to quality. Cookman believed quality and line were the two most important elements in a garment. The company produced moderate to high priced garments; one of the best-selling skirts in 1931 retailed at $45, which would be about $700 for inflation in 2015 dollars. Last mention of the company appearing in Women's Wear Daily was in 1940, noting financial troubles and a pending reorganization by Cookman to try to keep the business afloat.

US.20220414.013 · Collectivité · 1976-1995

Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers Union (ACTWU), former union of garment and apparel workers in the United States and Canada. It was formed in 1976 by the merger of the Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America (ACWA), a large union representing workers in the men’s clothing industry, with the Textile Workers Union of America, a smaller union founded in 1939. The ACWA was originally formed when militant elements within the United Garment Workers, a relatively conservative union, broke away in 1914 to form their own union under the leadership of Sidney Hillman (q.v.). He became president of the new union and held that office until his death in 1946. Under Hillman’s leadership the ACWA became the most important and successful of the clothing unions. It secured great improvements and benefits for its members, including cooperative housing, banks, and insurance programs. In 1933 the ACWA was admitted into the American Federation of Labor, but it withdrew to become a founding member of the Congress of Industrial Organizations (CIO) in 1935.

The merger of the ACWA with the Textile Workers Union of America in 1976 produced a new union, the ACTWU, which had a membership of about 500,000. Over the next two decades the ACTWU’s membership shrank along with employment in the American apparel industry, and in 1995 the ACTWU merged with the International Ladies’ Garment Workers’ Union to form the Union of Needletrades, Industrial and Textile Employees (UNITE), with a total membership of about 350,000.

US.20220414.014 · Collectivité · 1900-1995

The ILGWU was formed on June 3, 1900, by eleven delegates representing local unions from the major garment centers in New York City, Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Newark. These local unions' memberships numbered about two thousand workers and were comprised primarily of Jewish immigrants, many of them socialist, who had recently arrived in the United States from Eastern Europe. Many had been active trade unionists before coming to America, and in some instances, had participated in or organized unions upon arrival.

Seven local unions were represented at the International's founding meeting, and their delegates agreed that the efforts to improve working conditions within their cities would benefit from a national organization of workers in the ladies' garment trade. They agreed to name the new organization the International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union, and that it would affiliate with the American Federation of Labor. At the founding meeting, Herman Grossman was elected the first president of the ILGWU, and Bernard Braff was elected the first secretary-treasurer.

The ILGWU chartered only four of the seven local unions at the founding meeting - the Cloak Makers' Union of New York Local No. 1, the Cloak Makers' Protective Union of Philadelphia Local No. 2, the United Cloak Pressers of Philadelphia Local No. 3, and the Cloak Makers' Union of Baltimore, Local No. 4. Soon after, local unions in Boston, Chicago, Cleveland, Detroit, Kalamazoo (Michigan), and San Francisco were organized. According to Louis Levine, "The life of the locals during these early years was a succession of shop strikes, of propaganda and shop meetings, of injunctions fought (the most important of which was that against the cloakmakers' local of Racine, Wisconsin). The work of the International consists chiefly in trying to get the locals to join it, in smoothing out differences between locals in the same city, in helping to organize district councils and joint boards, in settling jurisdictional disputes, in enforcing boycotts and in agitating for its label. In the 1990s, the ILGWU merged with the Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers Union to form the new Union of Needletrades, Industrial and Textile Employees (UNITE), now UNITE HERE.

Echo Design Group
US.20220414.008 · Collectivité · 1923-

When Edgar and Theresa Hyman founded Echo Scarfs in the early 1920s, they set up shop in the heart of New York City, capturing its vibrancy in gorgeous colors, patterns and textures.

Today, that rich heritage of timeless quality, craftsmanship and integrity lives on in every new line of fashion accessories, bags, beachwear and home design. Still located within a block of the original showroom, Echo continues to draw inspiration from the vitality and diversity of the city. All the while, holding to the idea that a single accessory can possess the power to transform an outfit or a room, a mood or a perspective.

Harvé Benard, Ltd.
US.20220414.005 · Collectivité · 1967-

Harve Benard Ltd was founded in 1967. The Company manufactures women's blouses and shirts.

Laura Ashley (Firm)
US.20220408.047 · Collectivité · 1953-

With over 65 years of design excellence, Laura Ashley is one of the world's best-loved home and lifestyle brands. Its journey can be traced back to 1953 when Laura and Bernard Ashley began hand-printing fabric at their kitchen table in their tiny flat in Pimlico after being inspired by a Women's Institute exhibition at the V&A museum. Founded on a rich design heritage and on traditional values of quality and originality, the Laura Ashley brand has been nurtured to become synonymous with beauty and design. Our style is constantly evolving to remain distinctive and inspirational, evoking the alluring beauty of the British countryside and a timeless mood of peace and serenity.

Nautica Enterprises, Inc.
US.20220408.045 · Collectivité · 1983-

Nautica is a leading global lifestyle brand for men, women, and children, which includes home bedding collections.
As a nautical-influenced classic American sportswear brand, we inspire and enable people to experience the joy of water. Today, Nautica is one of the most recognized American brands throughout the world, with over 35 categories available in more than 65 countries with 76 Nautica stores and 291 International stores, and over 1,400 Nautica branded shop in shops worldwide.

Prada (Firm)
US.20220408.043 · Collectivité · 1913-

Prada was founded in Milan in 1913 by Mario Prada as a luxury leather-goods firm. Miuccia Prada took charge of her grandfather's company in 1978. Her first big success was a black nylon backpack with a triangular silver label. Soon her shoe and handbag designs became the focus of a veritable cult of fashionable consumers in Europe, America, and Japan. Miuccia Prada and her husband and business partner, Patrizio Bertelli, maintain close control over the company. They added a ready-to-wear line in 1989 and inaugurated the younger, slightly less expensive Miu Miu line in 1992, followed by Prada Sport, whose iconic red line is almost as recognized in certain circles as Nike's swoosh symbol. A string of shops and boutiques in Paris, New York, and San Francisco, designed in collaboration with the architect Rem Koolhaas, became instantly famous. Prada also engaged in a series of complex ownership maneuvers in the late 1990s, buying and selling stakes in Gucci, Fendi, and other companies and forming a partnership with Azzedine Alaïa in 2000.

Willi Wear (Firm)
US.20220408.041 · Collectivité · 1976-1990

Willi Wear was a streetwear label created in 1976 by designer Willi Smith. Willi Smith died in 1987 and the company closed its doors in 1990.

Helena Rubinstein, Inc.
US.20220408.029 · Collectivité · 1902-

Helena Rubenstein is a skincare and cosmetics company that was founded by Helena Rubenstein in 1902.

Noxell Corporation
US.20220408.026 · Collectivité · 1912-

Noxell Corporation, formerly known as the Noxzema Chemical Company, was a Maryland-based company that made household products. Its best known brands were Noxzema and CoverGirl. In 2016 it became a subsidiary of The Procter & Gamble Company.

Prince Matchabelli, Inc.
US.20220408.025 · Collectivité · 1926-

Prince Matchabelli is a perfume line established in 1926 and first designed by Prince Georges V. Matchabelli, a Georgian prince who was also an amateur chemist. The company became known for the many color-coded, crown-shaped bottles designed by Norina after the Matchabelli crown and introduced in 1928 with labels on the underside.

Shiseidō (Tokyo, Japan)
US.20220408.023 · Collectivité · 1872-

Shiseido Company, Limited is a Japanese multinational cosmetic company. Its product categories consist of: skin care, makeup, body care, hair care and fragrances. Founded in 1872, it is the largest cosmetic firm in Japan and the fifth largest cosmetic company in the world.

Bullock's (Department store)
US.20220408.013 · Collectivité · 1907-1995

Bullock's was a chain of full-line department stores from 1907 through 1995, headquartered in Los Angeles, growing to operate across California, Arizona and Nevada. Bullock's also operated as many as seven more upscale Bullocks Wilshire specialty department stores stores across Southern California. Many former Bullock's locations continue to operate as Macy's.

Burdines (Department store)
US.20220408.012 · Collectivité · 1897-2004

Burdines was an American chain of department stores operating in the state of Florida, headquartered in Miami. The original store opened in Bartow, Florida in the 1890s. Over its nearly 110-year history, Burdines grew into a popular chain of department stores, known as 'The Florida Store,' decorated with palm trees in the center of the store, painted in pink and blue, and other subtropical colors and motifs. In 1956, the stores became a part of Federated Department Stores, Inc. (now Macy's, Inc.) On January 30, 2004, it was renamed Burdines-Macy's, and a year later, on March 6, 2005, the name Burdines was dropped altogether. The majority of the stores were rebranded as Macy's while a handful closed.

Mervyn's (Department store)
US.20220325.094 · Collectivité · 1949 July 29-2008

Mervyn's was an American middle-scale department store chain based in Hayward, California, and founded by Mervin G. Morris. It carried national brands of clothing, footwear, bedding, furniture, jewelry, beauty products, electronics, and housewares.

Saks & Company (New York, N.Y.)
US.20220325.088 · Collectivité · 1867-

Saks Fifth Avenue was the brainchild of Horace Saks and Bernard Gimbel, who operated independent retail stores on New York's 34th Street at Herald Square in the early 1900s. Their dream was to construct a unique specialty store that would become synonymous with fashionable, gracious living. The combined financial input of these great merchant families led to the purchase of a site between 49th and 50th Streets on upper Fifth Avenue, then jointly occupied by the Democratic Club and the Buckingham Hotel. With the opening of its founders' "dream store" on September 15, 1924, Saks Fifth Avenue became the first large retail operation to locate in what was then primarily a residential district. By offering the finest quality men's and women's fashions, as well as an extraordinary program of customer services, Saks Fifth Avenue has become the byword for taste and elegance.

The merging of the Saks and Gimbel families resulted in more than just the construction of Saks Fifth Avenue. 30-year-old Adam Gimbel (Bernard's cousin) became Horace Saks' assistant. With the sudden death of Horace Saks in 1926, Adam Gimbel became President of Saks Fifth Avenue, bringing with him the imaginative foresight that has carried Saks Fifth Avenue to the zenith of its success.

Adam Gimbel also established a Saks empire, with branch stores reaching from coast to coast. When he retired in 1969, he was a legend in his own time. Adam Gimbel's first action was to redecorate the entire flagship store in the opulent Art Moderne style from the 1925 Paris Exposition, creating a series of specialty shops within the grand luxury of Saks Fifth Avenue. His intuitive perception was demonstrated as Adam traveled all over the world in search of those items that would set Saks Fifth Avenue eminently above other specialty stores.

Between 1972 and 1989, 20 new stores opened throughout the country, many in Texas and the Midwest, and eight stores were replaced by newer ones in the same markets. A renovation of the New York flagship began in 1978, with the installation of an escalator service in 1979 and the construction of a 36-floor office and retail complex directly behind the store, which was completed in spring 1990. Saks' portion of this tower resulted in nearly 30% more selling space for the New York City store and was built in partnership with the Swiss Bank Corporation.

In 1973, Saks & Company was acquired by BATUS, a subsidiary of B.A.T. Industries PLC through its acquisition of Gimbel Bros., Inc. In July 1990, affiliates of Investcorp S.A. ("Investcorp") and a group of international investors acquired Saks & Company from B.A.T., beginning a new chapter in the life of Saks Fifth Avenue. Philip B. Miller joined Saks Fifth Avenue in 1990 as Vice Chairman of Saks Fifth Avenue and as Director of Saks Holdings, Inc. He was appointed to Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of Saks Fifth Avenue in 1993 and at Saks Holdings, Inc., in 1995.

In late 1994, Saks Fifth Avenue undertook a major initiative to intensify its presence on the West Coast by acquiring four former I. Magnin stores in Beverly Hills, Carmel, San Diego and Phoenix. With the August 1995 opening of Saks West in Beverly Hills, Saks Fifth Avenue became Beverly Hills' largest specialty store, with 260,000 combined square feet between the expanded and renovated Saks East and new Saks West, which houses all men's categories, plus women's special sizes (Petite Collections and Salon Z). In August 1997, Saks Fifth Avenue opened a new men's store in San Francisco on Post Street, creating more women's designer selling space in the current San Francisco location. A strategy to intensify Saks Fifth Avenue's presence in Texas began with the relocation of the Houston store to the Galleria on September 11, 1997 and the relocation of the Dallas store within the Dallas Galleria in September 1999.

In 1996, Saks Fifth Avenue attained a long-term goal and became a public company as Saks Holdings, Inc. The initial public offering was completed on May 21, 1996, with 16 million shares outstanding. It traded its shares on the New York Stock Exchange under the symbol "SKS" until September 1998.

On September 17, 1998, Saks Holdings, Inc. and Proffitt's, Inc., a leading regional department store company, completed a merger transaction whereby Saks Fifth Avenue became a division of Proffitt's, Inc. In conjunction with the merger, the corporate name of Proffitt's, Inc. was changed to Saks Incorporated and the stock began trading on the New York Stock Exchange under the symbol "SKS" on September 18.

In the summer of 2000, Saks Fifth Avenue launched saks.com, offering in-store categories, as well as exclusive products and content.

On November 4, 2013, Saks Incorporated was acquired by HBC, a holding company of portfolio businesses that operate at the intersection of retail and real estate.

US.20220325.076 · Collectivité · 1808 June 25-

Fifth Avenue Presbyterian Church is a Presbyterian church in New York City. The church, on Fifth Avenue at 7 West 55th Street in Midtown Manhattan, has approximately 2,200 members and is one of the larger PCUSA congregations. The church, founded in 1808 as the Cedar Street Presbyterian Church, has been at this site since 1875.

Fifth Avenue Presbyterian Church has long been noted for its high standards in preaching and music and has been at the forefront of many movements, from the development of the Sunday school in the 19th century to its current leadership in homeless advocacy. In 2001, the church successfully sued the City of New York for the right to shelter homeless individuals on its front steps.

In 1884, the joint funerals of the mother of President Theodore Roosevelt and of his first wife, Alice, were held here. In 1910, the church's historic sanctuary was the site of the wedding of TR's son, Theodore Roosevelt Jr., an event attended by the former President, and 500 of his former Rough Riders. It was also the site of the 1965 recording of A Concert of Sacred Music by Duke Ellington and his orchestra, broadcast nationally by CBS television in 1966,[7] and of dance legend Frankie Manning's "rollicking three-hour memorial service" in 2009.

Architecturally and historically, “Fifth Avenue Presbyterian Church is famed for its sloping auditorium, its fine acoustics, its old gas brackets and reflectors. Instrumental in founding Princeton Theological Seminary, Presbyterian Hospital (now New York Presbyterian Hospital) and many a mission church, this grand house of God is often called the Cathedral of Presbyterianism.”

Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts
US.20210720.002 · Collectivité · 1962-

Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts is a cultural complex on the westside of Manhattan. The buildings, situated around a plaza with a fountain, are the home of the Metropolitan Opera, the New York City Opera, the New York Philharmonic, the New York City Ballet, and the Juilliard School.

Ballets russes
US.20210820.007 · Collectivité · 1909-1929

Founded in Paris in 1909 by Russian ballet impresario Sergei Diaghilev, the avant-garde dance company employed the talents of some of the great early 20th centuries creatives including choreographers Michel Fokine and George Balanchine, dancers Anna Pavlova and Vaslav Nijinsky. Musical scores for the troupe were created by Rimsky-Korsakov, Stravinsky and Erick Satie. Artists and designers who created sets and stage costumes included Léon Bakst, Picasso, Rouault, Matisse, and Derain.

The Ballets russes dissolved as a company upon the death of its founder Diaghilev in 1929.

Condé Nast Publications
US.20210827.017 · Collectivité · 1909-

American mass media company

Playtex
US.20220318.111 · Collectivité · 1932-
Elite Model Management
US.20220318.070 · Collectivité · 1972-

Elite Model Management is a chain modeling agency that originated in Paris, France in 1972 with locations in New York, Los Angeles, Miami, London and Toronto.

Gothé, Inc.
US.20220316.003 · Collectivité · 1935-1966

Couture design firm and manufacturer founded by Bernard Horwitz and David E. Gottlieb and located at 530 7th Avenue, New York City. Active from 1935 to 1966 and responsible for designing and manufacturing Eleanor Roosevelt's gown for the 1944 inaugural ball. Specialized in day and evening dresses and coats and wraps. House designers included Mary Ann Ferro and Linda Feder.

British American Tobacco Company
US.20220621.001 · Collectivité · 1902-

B.A.T Industries plc is the holding company for a group of companies that manufacture tobacco products, including international and domestic brands of cigarettes, and provide financial and insurance services. The Group operates in over 100 countries worldwide. https://www.bloomberg.com/profile/company/1099Q:LN#xj4y7vzkg

BAT has diversified into various fields at different times in its history. Its U.S. retail division, BATUS Retail Group, acquired Gimbels, Kohl's, and Saks Fifth Avenue in the 1970s and Marshall Field's and its divisions in 1982. It purchased the United Kingdom retail chain Argos in 1979. The company sold Kohl's grocery stores to A&P in 1983. In 1986, BATUS sold the Kohl's department stores and two Marshall Field's divisions, The Crescent and Frederick & Nelson; BATUS closed Gimbels the same year, with many locations being absorbed by sister division Marshall Field's, as well as Allied Stores' Stern's and Pomeroy's divisions. In 1990, Dayton Hudson Corporation (now Target Corporation) purchased Marshall Field's, Dillard's purchased Ivey's (another Marshall Field's division), Investcorp S.A. purchased Saks Fifth Avenue, and Argos was demerged (Argos was acquired by previous parent company GUS plc in 1998). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_American_Tobacco

Crown Mills Company, 1878-1961
US.20230128-003 · Collectivité · circa 1878-1961

The Crown Mills Company originated around 1878, and in 1890 it merged with the Marcellus Woolen Mills Company to form the Crown Mills Corporation. Edward Moir began at Crown Mills in 1884 and became president in 1899. During his time at Crown Mills, Moir expanded the operation by purchasing additional buildings and increasing the number of looms from 20 to 108. Operation included dyeing, carding, spinning, and weaving. Moir's son John M. Moir was president of the mill from 1932 until it closed in 1961.

Mignon
US.20230521.006 · Collectivité
PLW (firm)
US.20230521.002 · Collectivité
Stewart & Company
US.20230525.017 · Collectivité · early twentieth century

Dress business from the early twentieth century.

Mademoiselle Shoe Co.
US.20230901.001 · Collectivité

Forecasting company related to Jerry Miller.

Helena Rubinstein Foundation
Collectivité · 1953-2011

Helena Rubinstein started the Helena Rubinstein Foundation in 1953. Convinced that education was vital to career development, she set up scholarship grants to encourage young women to undertake higher education and to pursue nontraditional careers. The Foundation was a major beneficiary of Helena Rubinstein's legacy when she died in 1965 at the age of 94. Its directors further developed and broadened the philanthropic concepts she initiated and, sensitive to the changing needs of society, supported new and forward-looking programs.

The Helena Rubinstein Foundation ceased operations at the end of 2011. Over its nearly 60 year history, the Foundation distributed over $130 million, primarily to education and community-based organizations in New York City. Foundation assets included an archive of more than 600 photographs, books written by and about Helena Rubenstein, article clippings, and various media, documenting the career of Helena Rubinstein. This collection is now in the care of the library at the Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York.

Velde, Henry van de, 1863-1957
US.20180702.061 · Personne · 1863-1957

Henry van de Velde was born in Antwerp in 1863 where he trained at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts. His career began as a painter before turning to the decorative arts and architecture. He was the founder of two revolutionary art schools in Europe - one in Germany and one in Belgium.

Koolhaas, Rem
US.20180711.016 · Personne

Rem Koolhaas is a Dutch architect.

Menn, Christian, 1927-
US.20180711.025 · Personne · 1927-

Christian Menn was a Swiss engineer most well known for the technical and aesthetic quality of his bridges.

Davies, Marion, 1897-1961
US.20180702.028 · Personne · 1897-1961

Marion Davies (born Marion Cecilia Douras in 1897) was an American actress. Her career began on Broadway, working with the great directors and producers of the day, including Florenz Ziegfeld. While performing in Ziegfeld's Follies, she met William Randolph Hearst, the newspaper magnate. Although Hearst was married, the two entered into a passionate affair that would last until Hearst's death in 1951. With Hearst's backing, Davies became one of the most publicized actresses of the silent era. In Hollywood, Davies starred in over 40 films, including 16 "talkies." She retired from acting in the mid-1930s. She spent the rest of her life between Hollywood and San Simeon, where Hearst had a large estate. After Hearst passed away, Davies entered her first and only marriage with Horace G. Brown. Marion Davies passed away on September 22, 1961 at the age of 64.

Hubert, René
US.20180711.011 · Personne
Pope, Virginia
US.20180907.007 · Personne · 1885 June 29-1978 January 16

Virginia Pope, the fashion editor of The New York Times from 1933 to 1955, died yesterday morning in her borne at 419 East 570‐Street. She was 92 years old and had suffered a stroke three years ago. Miss Pope, who joined The Times in 1925 and became fashion editor eight years later, encouraged the young fashion industry just emerging on Seventh Avenue and set standards of taste for young designers. “I think she invented the reporting of fashion,” Pauline Trigere. the fashion designer, said yesterday. “Nobody thought of describing a dress as a news event before she did.” “She was a very knowledgeable woman,” said Geoffrey Beene. “When first began to work in New York as designer, I was completely in awe of her. She was one of the great ladies of fashion. She and the late Jessica Daves were sort of synonymous with me for their taste.” Students at the Fashion Institute of Technology and designers struggling to get a foothold in the business found her a helpful guide. As holder of the institute's Edwin Goodman chair, endowed by Bergdorf Goodman, Miss Pope was a familiar sight on Seventh Avenue until recent years, taking her students to fashion shows and showing them how a business worked behind the scenes. She also appeared regularly on Monday night at the Metropolitan Opera with six students because she felt exposure to culture was essential to the development of a fashion designer. After her retirement from The New York Times, Miss Pope joined the staff of Parade magazine as fashion editor. At her death, her name still appeared on the masthead. In 1942, she originated the “Fashions of the Times,” a fashion show she staged each fall for the next nine years that served as a showcase for American designers. “I was damn proud of being in it,” Miss Trigere recalled. “We all were.” In 1952, the stage presentation was transformed into a fashion supplement with the same name, which The Times still publishes. Miss Pope owned hundreds of hats and almost never wore the same dress and accessories two days running. “I'm drunkard about hats,” she once said. “I cannot bear to throw one away.” Although she dressed in an establishment way, she understood innovations, Mr. Beene recalled. “She could look at clothes objectively,” he added. “That is a great talent.” Miss Pope was one of the first fashion reporters who invaded the wholesale fashion markets for news, to see how clothes were made. And she considered the people who made them news makers as well. In the 1930's and earlier, the only legitimate fashion news was thought to be style changes emanating from Paris. Miss Pope was born in Chicago on June 29, 1885, the daughter of Francis C. and Betty Hamilton Pope. Her father died when she was 5 years old, and she and her mother toured Europe, where she became fluent in French, German and Italian. They did not return to Chicago until she was 20. During World War I, she left again to join the Red Cross. After the war, Miss Pope tried several careers, going into social work at Hull House in Chicago under Jane Addams and appearing as a dancer at the Maxine Elliott Theater in New York City with Yvette Guilbert, the French singer. She wrote an article on the Oberammergau Players from Germany, who were appearing in New York, and sent it to The Times. The article, which she obtained by speaking German to one of the players, was her first published piece. She followed it with Christmas articles set in an Italian neighborhood, where she had to use her Italian. Soon afterward, Miss Pope was hired by The Times as a member of the Sunday staff. In 1937, she obtained radio photographs of the Paris fashion openings for the newspaper and two years later a full fashion page on the Duchess of Windsor. She reported on the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953. Miss Pope, who served as president of the New York Newspaperwomen's Club, received the Neiman‐Marcus Award in 1948 for outstanding contribution to the fashion field. She is survived by a niece, Betty Pope, and a nephew, Francis Pope Jr. Funeral services will be held on Thursday at 11 A.M. in the Frank E. Campbell Funeral Chapel, at 1076 Madison Avenue, at 81st Street.

Lawrence, Gertrude
US.20180711.001 · Personne

Gertrude Lawrence was an English actress who starred in plays, musicals, and film.

Quant, Mary
US.20180907.005 · Personne

Mary Quant was a British fashion designer. Quant studied art education and illustration at Goldsmiths, where she graduated in 1953. In 1955, she and her husband, aristocrat Alexander Plunket Greene, and lawyer-turned-photographer Archie McNair opened a boutique named Bazaar, where they stocked Quant's own designs. After expanding and opening a second store in 1957, she signed a design contract with American department-store chain JC Penney in 1962. Quant is widely seen as very influential in 1960's and 1970's fashion and is often credited as inventing the mini-skirt, which was heavily popularized on '60's It-model Twiggy. Often cited as the 'mother of the miniskirt,' Quant created ready-to-wear designs for the hip, youth scene which was later dubbed Youthquake. She was granted an OBE by Queen Elizabeth II in 1966 and granted the title of Dame in 2015 for her services to British fashion.

Davis, Miles
US.20190516.005 · Personne · 1926 May 26-1991 September 28

"Over six full decades, from his arrival on the national scene in 1945 until his death in 1991, Miles Davis made music that grew from an uncanny talent to hear the future and a headstrong desire to play it. From his beginnings in the circle of modern jazz, he came to intuit new worlds of sound and challenge. While the vast majority of musicians – jazz, rock, R&B, otherwise – find the experimental charge and imperviousness of youth eventually running down, Miles forever forged ahead, trusting and following instinct until the end.

In doing so, Miles became the standard bearer for successive generations of musicians, shaped the course of modern improvisational music more than a half-dozen times. This biography attempts to explain those paradigm-shifts one after another, through his recordings and major life changes.

The factors leading to that process are now the foundation of the Miles Davis legend: the dentist’s son born in 1926 to middle-class comfort in East St Louis. The fresh acolyte learning trumpet in the fertile, blues-drenched music scene of his hometown. The sensitive soul forging a seething streetwise exterior that later earned him the title, Prince Of Darkness. The determined teenager convincing his parents to send him to New York’s famed Juilliard School of Music in 1944, a ploy allowing him to locate and join the band of his idol, bebop pioneer Charlie Parker.

It wasn’t long before the headstrong young arrival grew from sideman to leading his own projects and bands of renown, from the restrained, classical underpinning of the famous “Birth of the Cool” group (Miles’ first foray with arranger Gil Evans), to the blues-infused hardbop anthem “Walkin’”, to his first famous quintet (Coltrane, Chambers, Red Garland, Philly Joe Jones) with whom his recordings on muted trumpet helped him develop a signature sound that broke through to mainstream recognition. His subsequent jump from recording with independent labels (Prestige, Blue Note) to Columbia Records, then the Tiffany of record companies, propelled his career further from a limited jazz audience and a series of late ‘50s albums (Miles Ahead, Porgy & Bess, Miles Ahead, Kind of Blue and Sketches of Spain) secured his widespread popularity.

Miles’ group shifted and morphed through the early ‘60s until he settled for a four-year run with his classic quintet, a lineup that is still hailed today as one of the greatest and most influential jazz groups of all time. Their albums together — from Miles Smiles, ESP and Nefertiti, to Miles In The Sky, and Filles de Kilimanjaro — traced a pattern of unparalleled growth and innovation.

Had Miles stopped his progress at that point, he’d still be hailed as one of the greatest pioneers in jazz, but his creative momentum from the end of the ‘60s into the ‘70s would not let up. He was listening to the world around him — the amplified explosion of rock bands and the new, heavy-on-the-one funk of James Brown and Sly & The Family Stone. From the ambient hush of In A Silent Way, to the strange and unsettling – yet wildly popular Bitches Brew, he achieved another shift in musical paradigm and a personal career breakthrough.

Bitches Brew was controversial, a best-seller and attracted another, younger generation into the Miles fold. Thousands whose musical taste respected no categorical walls flocked to hear Miles, and a slew of fusion bands were soon spawned, led by his former sidemen: Weather Report, Mahavishnu Orchestra, Return To Forever. The studio albums that defined Miles’ kaleidoscopic sound in the ‘70s included a series of (mostly) double albums, from …Brew to 1971’s Live-Evil, ‘72’s On The Corner and ‘75’s Get Up With It. The covers listed populous line-ups that reached up to 11 musicians, adding new names to an ever-widening circle of on-call talent.

By the end of 1975, Miles was tired – and sick. A period of seclusion ensued, full years to deal with personal demons and health issues, bouncing between bouts of self-abuse and boredom. It was the longest time Miles had been off the public radar – only amplifying the appetite for his return.

When Miles reappeared in 1981, expectation had reached fever pitch. A final series of albums for Columbia reflected his continuing fascination with funk of the day (Rose Royce, Cameo, Chaka Khan and later, Prince), and the sounds of synthesizer and drum machines (Great Miles Shift Number 8). The Man With A Horn, We Want Miles and Decoy found him still working with Teo Macero and still surrounding himself with young talent, including bassist Darryl Jones (Rolling Stones). In 1985, his album You’re Under Arrest — with unexpected covers of recent pop charters (Michael Jackson’s “Human Nature” and Cyndi Lauper’s “Time After Time”) – brought the long Davis-Columbia association to a close. He embarked on a new relationship with Warner Bros. Records and producer Tommy LiPuma, scoring successes with Tutu (written in a large part by his bassist Marcus Miller), Music from Siesta (also with Miller), Amandla (featuring a new breed of soloists, including alto saxophonist Kenny Garrett, tenor saxophonist Rick Margitza, guitarist Jean-Paul Bourelly, keyboardist Joey DeFrancesco, and others) and Doo-Bop (his collaboration with hip hop producer Easy Moe Bee.)

Those titles proved Miles’ farewell, still pushing forward, still exploring new musical territory. Throughout his career, he had always resisted looking back, avoiding nostalgia and loathing leftovers. “It’s more like warmed-over turkey,” the eternal modernist described the music of Kind of Blue twenty-five years after recording it. Ironically, in 1991, only weeks after performing a career-overview concert in Paris that featured old friends and collaborators from as early as the ‘40s, he died from a brain aneurysm.

Like his music, Miles always spoke with an economy of expression. And for Miles, it had to be fresh, or forget it. “I don’t want you to like me because of Kind of Blue,” he insisted. “Like me for what we’re doing now.”" https://www.milesdavis.com/biography/

Autry, Gene, 1907-1998
US.20180702.003 · Personne · 1907-1998

Orvon Gene Autry was born on September 29th, 1907 in Tioga, Texas. His father was a cattle buyer, farmer, and preacher. Autry learned how to ride horses and play the guitar at a young age. Late in his teens, Autry worked as a telegrapher. His interest in show business began one night while working in Chelsea, Oklahoma. The actor Will Rogers came in to the depot Autry was working in, saw the guitar near the young man, and asked him to play. After hearing Autry, Rogers encouraged him to try to find work on the radio. After being turned down for work in New York, Autry got his first job in radio at a radio station in Tulsa. In 1928, Autry was back in New York but this time to record a song which became successful. This got Autry a contract with Columbia Records. His film career began six years after he cut his first record. Throughout the mid- and late-1930s, Autry's star kept rising. His cowboy persona was well regarded by both kids and adults. From 1938 to 1932, he was one of the top ten box-office draws in the nation. Autry continued to record music and star in films in the 1940s and 1950s, only retiring in 1964 at the age of 57. Gene Autry is perhaps best known as the singer of the original "Rudolf the Rednosed Reindeer," the second best-selling song in history. In addition to his work in the entertainment business, Autry owned a handful of profitable properties. Gene Autry passed away on October 2nd, 1998 at the age of 91.

Kawakubo, Rei, 1942-
US.20180702.046 · Personne · 1942-

Rei Kawakubo is a Japanese fashion designer. She is the founder of fashion label Comme des Garçons, established in 1973.

Medine, Leandra
US.20180711.023 · Personne · Unknown

Leandra Medine is an American fashion blogger and founder of the blog and brand, Man Repeller. Man Repeller ceased operations in the summer of 2020 following criticisms over the lack of diversity and support for the Black Lives Matter movement.

Phelps, Elspeth
US.20180702.042 · Personne · 1876-1968

Derived from http://www.beauxbooks.com/a-collection-of-original-fashion-illustrations-of-designs-by-the-couturier-elspeth-phelps.html:
Constance Elspeth Phelps was born in 1877 in Madeira, Portugal. She emigrated to England to work as a dressmaker and at the turn of the century was working under the court dressmaker Ada Nettleship (Augustus John's mother-in-law) in Wigmore Street. [Around] 1906 she opened her own London couture house in Albemarle Street. From here she designed gowns for Court and high society, as well as dressing the cream of London's theater stars, including Lily Elsie and Irene Castle. In 1920 she married Lionel Fox Pitt, by which name she is often referred. The fashion house continued to expand over the next two decades. In 1923 she formed an alliance with the London branch of the French fashion house Paquin; she sold the Elspeth Phelps name to them and opened a new showroom in Dover Street. The arrangement was not to end well and a very public court case ensued, with Paquin accusing Phelps of underhand dealings and Phelps suing Paquin for breach of contract. She managed to extricate herself from the arrangement and reopened her house as Elspeth Fox Pitt Ltd. in the late 1920s. The business continued to run for many years. Her London shop was bombed during the Second World War and she relocated her workrooms to Oxford. The company was closed in 1959. Phelps died on 10 March 1968.

Champcommunal, Elspeth
US.20180702.011 · Personne · 1888-1976

Born Elspeth Mary Hodgson in 1888, Elspeth Champcommunal was a notable socialite in the pre-WWI and interwar European art world. She married the French artist Joseph Champcommunal, who died tragically during the first year of WWI. In 1916, Champcommunal became the first editor of British Vogue. Beginning in the mid-1920s, Champcommunal ran her couture house in Paris. Champcommunal became head of the British operation of Worth in 1936, where she stayed until the mid-1950s. Champcommunal passed away on November 10, 1976.