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Mervyn's (Department store)
US.20220325.094 · Collectivité · 1949 July 29-2008

Mervyn's was an American middle-scale department store chain based in Hayward, California, and founded by Mervin G. Morris. It carried national brands of clothing, footwear, bedding, furniture, jewelry, beauty products, electronics, and housewares.

Saks & Company (New York, N.Y.)
US.20220325.088 · Collectivité · 1867-

Saks Fifth Avenue was the brainchild of Horace Saks and Bernard Gimbel, who operated independent retail stores on New York's 34th Street at Herald Square in the early 1900s. Their dream was to construct a unique specialty store that would become synonymous with fashionable, gracious living. The combined financial input of these great merchant families led to the purchase of a site between 49th and 50th Streets on upper Fifth Avenue, then jointly occupied by the Democratic Club and the Buckingham Hotel. With the opening of its founders' "dream store" on September 15, 1924, Saks Fifth Avenue became the first large retail operation to locate in what was then primarily a residential district. By offering the finest quality men's and women's fashions, as well as an extraordinary program of customer services, Saks Fifth Avenue has become the byword for taste and elegance.

The merging of the Saks and Gimbel families resulted in more than just the construction of Saks Fifth Avenue. 30-year-old Adam Gimbel (Bernard's cousin) became Horace Saks' assistant. With the sudden death of Horace Saks in 1926, Adam Gimbel became President of Saks Fifth Avenue, bringing with him the imaginative foresight that has carried Saks Fifth Avenue to the zenith of its success.

Adam Gimbel also established a Saks empire, with branch stores reaching from coast to coast. When he retired in 1969, he was a legend in his own time. Adam Gimbel's first action was to redecorate the entire flagship store in the opulent Art Moderne style from the 1925 Paris Exposition, creating a series of specialty shops within the grand luxury of Saks Fifth Avenue. His intuitive perception was demonstrated as Adam traveled all over the world in search of those items that would set Saks Fifth Avenue eminently above other specialty stores.

Between 1972 and 1989, 20 new stores opened throughout the country, many in Texas and the Midwest, and eight stores were replaced by newer ones in the same markets. A renovation of the New York flagship began in 1978, with the installation of an escalator service in 1979 and the construction of a 36-floor office and retail complex directly behind the store, which was completed in spring 1990. Saks' portion of this tower resulted in nearly 30% more selling space for the New York City store and was built in partnership with the Swiss Bank Corporation.

In 1973, Saks & Company was acquired by BATUS, a subsidiary of B.A.T. Industries PLC through its acquisition of Gimbel Bros., Inc. In July 1990, affiliates of Investcorp S.A. ("Investcorp") and a group of international investors acquired Saks & Company from B.A.T., beginning a new chapter in the life of Saks Fifth Avenue. Philip B. Miller joined Saks Fifth Avenue in 1990 as Vice Chairman of Saks Fifth Avenue and as Director of Saks Holdings, Inc. He was appointed to Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of Saks Fifth Avenue in 1993 and at Saks Holdings, Inc., in 1995.

In late 1994, Saks Fifth Avenue undertook a major initiative to intensify its presence on the West Coast by acquiring four former I. Magnin stores in Beverly Hills, Carmel, San Diego and Phoenix. With the August 1995 opening of Saks West in Beverly Hills, Saks Fifth Avenue became Beverly Hills' largest specialty store, with 260,000 combined square feet between the expanded and renovated Saks East and new Saks West, which houses all men's categories, plus women's special sizes (Petite Collections and Salon Z). In August 1997, Saks Fifth Avenue opened a new men's store in San Francisco on Post Street, creating more women's designer selling space in the current San Francisco location. A strategy to intensify Saks Fifth Avenue's presence in Texas began with the relocation of the Houston store to the Galleria on September 11, 1997 and the relocation of the Dallas store within the Dallas Galleria in September 1999.

In 1996, Saks Fifth Avenue attained a long-term goal and became a public company as Saks Holdings, Inc. The initial public offering was completed on May 21, 1996, with 16 million shares outstanding. It traded its shares on the New York Stock Exchange under the symbol "SKS" until September 1998.

On September 17, 1998, Saks Holdings, Inc. and Proffitt's, Inc., a leading regional department store company, completed a merger transaction whereby Saks Fifth Avenue became a division of Proffitt's, Inc. In conjunction with the merger, the corporate name of Proffitt's, Inc. was changed to Saks Incorporated and the stock began trading on the New York Stock Exchange under the symbol "SKS" on September 18.

In the summer of 2000, Saks Fifth Avenue launched saks.com, offering in-store categories, as well as exclusive products and content.

On November 4, 2013, Saks Incorporated was acquired by HBC, a holding company of portfolio businesses that operate at the intersection of retail and real estate.

US.20220325.076 · Collectivité · 1808 June 25-

Fifth Avenue Presbyterian Church is a Presbyterian church in New York City. The church, on Fifth Avenue at 7 West 55th Street in Midtown Manhattan, has approximately 2,200 members and is one of the larger PCUSA congregations. The church, founded in 1808 as the Cedar Street Presbyterian Church, has been at this site since 1875.

Fifth Avenue Presbyterian Church has long been noted for its high standards in preaching and music and has been at the forefront of many movements, from the development of the Sunday school in the 19th century to its current leadership in homeless advocacy. In 2001, the church successfully sued the City of New York for the right to shelter homeless individuals on its front steps.

In 1884, the joint funerals of the mother of President Theodore Roosevelt and of his first wife, Alice, were held here. In 1910, the church's historic sanctuary was the site of the wedding of TR's son, Theodore Roosevelt Jr., an event attended by the former President, and 500 of his former Rough Riders. It was also the site of the 1965 recording of A Concert of Sacred Music by Duke Ellington and his orchestra, broadcast nationally by CBS television in 1966,[7] and of dance legend Frankie Manning's "rollicking three-hour memorial service" in 2009.

Architecturally and historically, “Fifth Avenue Presbyterian Church is famed for its sloping auditorium, its fine acoustics, its old gas brackets and reflectors. Instrumental in founding Princeton Theological Seminary, Presbyterian Hospital (now New York Presbyterian Hospital) and many a mission church, this grand house of God is often called the Cathedral of Presbyterianism.”

Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts
US.20210720.002 · Collectivité · 1962-

Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts is a cultural complex on the westside of Manhattan. The buildings, situated around a plaza with a fountain, are the home of the Metropolitan Opera, the New York City Opera, the New York Philharmonic, the New York City Ballet, and the Juilliard School.

Ballets russes
US.20210820.007 · Collectivité · 1909-1929

Founded in Paris in 1909 by Russian ballet impresario Sergei Diaghilev, the avant-garde dance company employed the talents of some of the great early 20th centuries creatives including choreographers Michel Fokine and George Balanchine, dancers Anna Pavlova and Vaslav Nijinsky. Musical scores for the troupe were created by Rimsky-Korsakov, Stravinsky and Erick Satie. Artists and designers who created sets and stage costumes included Léon Bakst, Picasso, Rouault, Matisse, and Derain.

The Ballets russes dissolved as a company upon the death of its founder Diaghilev in 1929.

Condé Nast Publications
US.20210827.017 · Collectivité · 1909-

American mass media company

Playtex
US.20220318.111 · Collectivité · 1932-
Elite Model Management
US.20220318.070 · Collectivité · 1972-

Elite Model Management is a chain modeling agency that originated in Paris, France in 1972 with locations in New York, Los Angeles, Miami, London and Toronto.

Gothé, Inc.
US.20220316.003 · Collectivité · 1935-1966

Couture design firm and manufacturer founded by Bernard Horwitz and David E. Gottlieb and located at 530 7th Avenue, New York City. Active from 1935 to 1966 and responsible for designing and manufacturing Eleanor Roosevelt's gown for the 1944 inaugural ball. Specialized in day and evening dresses and coats and wraps. House designers included Mary Ann Ferro and Linda Feder.

British American Tobacco Company
US.20220621.001 · Collectivité · 1902-

B.A.T Industries plc is the holding company for a group of companies that manufacture tobacco products, including international and domestic brands of cigarettes, and provide financial and insurance services. The Group operates in over 100 countries worldwide. https://www.bloomberg.com/profile/company/1099Q:LN#xj4y7vzkg

BAT has diversified into various fields at different times in its history. Its U.S. retail division, BATUS Retail Group, acquired Gimbels, Kohl's, and Saks Fifth Avenue in the 1970s and Marshall Field's and its divisions in 1982. It purchased the United Kingdom retail chain Argos in 1979. The company sold Kohl's grocery stores to A&P in 1983. In 1986, BATUS sold the Kohl's department stores and two Marshall Field's divisions, The Crescent and Frederick & Nelson; BATUS closed Gimbels the same year, with many locations being absorbed by sister division Marshall Field's, as well as Allied Stores' Stern's and Pomeroy's divisions. In 1990, Dayton Hudson Corporation (now Target Corporation) purchased Marshall Field's, Dillard's purchased Ivey's (another Marshall Field's division), Investcorp S.A. purchased Saks Fifth Avenue, and Argos was demerged (Argos was acquired by previous parent company GUS plc in 1998). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_American_Tobacco

Crown Mills Company, 1878-1961
US.20230128-003 · Collectivité · circa 1878-1961

The Crown Mills Company originated around 1878, and in 1890 it merged with the Marcellus Woolen Mills Company to form the Crown Mills Corporation. Edward Moir began at Crown Mills in 1884 and became president in 1899. During his time at Crown Mills, Moir expanded the operation by purchasing additional buildings and increasing the number of looms from 20 to 108. Operation included dyeing, carding, spinning, and weaving. Moir's son John M. Moir was president of the mill from 1932 until it closed in 1961.

Mignon
US.20230521.006 · Collectivité
PLW (firm)
US.20230521.002 · Collectivité
Stewart & Company
US.20230525.017 · Collectivité · early twentieth century

Dress business from the early twentieth century.

Velde, Henry van de, 1863-1957
US.20180702.061 · Personne · 1863-1957

Henry van de Velde was born in Antwerp in 1863 where he trained at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts. His career began as a painter before turning to the decorative arts and architecture. He was the founder of two revolutionary art schools in Europe - one in Germany and one in Belgium.

Koolhaas, Rem
US.20180711.016 · Personne

Rem Koolhaas is a Dutch architect.

Menn, Christian, 1927-
US.20180711.025 · Personne · 1927-

Christian Menn was a Swiss engineer most well known for the technical and aesthetic quality of his bridges.

Davies, Marion, 1897-1961
US.20180702.028 · Personne · 1897-1961

Marion Davies (born Marion Cecilia Douras in 1897) was an American actress. Her career began on Broadway, working with the great directors and producers of the day, including Florenz Ziegfeld. While performing in Ziegfeld's Follies, she met William Randolph Hearst, the newspaper magnate. Although Hearst was married, the two entered into a passionate affair that would last until Hearst's death in 1951. With Hearst's backing, Davies became one of the most publicized actresses of the silent era. In Hollywood, Davies starred in over 40 films, including 16 "talkies." She retired from acting in the mid-1930s. She spent the rest of her life between Hollywood and San Simeon, where Hearst had a large estate. After Hearst passed away, Davies entered her first and only marriage with Horace G. Brown. Marion Davies passed away on September 22, 1961 at the age of 64.

Hubert, René
US.20180711.011 · Personne
Pope, Virginia
US.20180907.007 · Personne · 1885 June 29-1978 January 16

Virginia Pope, the fashion editor of The New York Times from 1933 to 1955, died yesterday morning in her borne at 419 East 570‐Street. She was 92 years old and had suffered a stroke three years ago. Miss Pope, who joined The Times in 1925 and became fashion editor eight years later, encouraged the young fashion industry just emerging on Seventh Avenue and set standards of taste for young designers. “I think she invented the reporting of fashion,” Pauline Trigere. the fashion designer, said yesterday. “Nobody thought of describing a dress as a news event before she did.” “She was a very knowledgeable woman,” said Geoffrey Beene. “When first began to work in New York as designer, I was completely in awe of her. She was one of the great ladies of fashion. She and the late Jessica Daves were sort of synonymous with me for their taste.” Students at the Fashion Institute of Technology and designers struggling to get a foothold in the business found her a helpful guide. As holder of the institute's Edwin Goodman chair, endowed by Bergdorf Goodman, Miss Pope was a familiar sight on Seventh Avenue until recent years, taking her students to fashion shows and showing them how a business worked behind the scenes. She also appeared regularly on Monday night at the Metropolitan Opera with six students because she felt exposure to culture was essential to the development of a fashion designer. After her retirement from The New York Times, Miss Pope joined the staff of Parade magazine as fashion editor. At her death, her name still appeared on the masthead. In 1942, she originated the “Fashions of the Times,” a fashion show she staged each fall for the next nine years that served as a showcase for American designers. “I was damn proud of being in it,” Miss Trigere recalled. “We all were.” In 1952, the stage presentation was transformed into a fashion supplement with the same name, which The Times still publishes. Miss Pope owned hundreds of hats and almost never wore the same dress and accessories two days running. “I'm drunkard about hats,” she once said. “I cannot bear to throw one away.” Although she dressed in an establishment way, she understood innovations, Mr. Beene recalled. “She could look at clothes objectively,” he added. “That is a great talent.” Miss Pope was one of the first fashion reporters who invaded the wholesale fashion markets for news, to see how clothes were made. And she considered the people who made them news makers as well. In the 1930's and earlier, the only legitimate fashion news was thought to be style changes emanating from Paris. Miss Pope was born in Chicago on June 29, 1885, the daughter of Francis C. and Betty Hamilton Pope. Her father died when she was 5 years old, and she and her mother toured Europe, where she became fluent in French, German and Italian. They did not return to Chicago until she was 20. During World War I, she left again to join the Red Cross. After the war, Miss Pope tried several careers, going into social work at Hull House in Chicago under Jane Addams and appearing as a dancer at the Maxine Elliott Theater in New York City with Yvette Guilbert, the French singer. She wrote an article on the Oberammergau Players from Germany, who were appearing in New York, and sent it to The Times. The article, which she obtained by speaking German to one of the players, was her first published piece. She followed it with Christmas articles set in an Italian neighborhood, where she had to use her Italian. Soon afterward, Miss Pope was hired by The Times as a member of the Sunday staff. In 1937, she obtained radio photographs of the Paris fashion openings for the newspaper and two years later a full fashion page on the Duchess of Windsor. She reported on the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953. Miss Pope, who served as president of the New York Newspaperwomen's Club, received the Neiman‐Marcus Award in 1948 for outstanding contribution to the fashion field. She is survived by a niece, Betty Pope, and a nephew, Francis Pope Jr. Funeral services will be held on Thursday at 11 A.M. in the Frank E. Campbell Funeral Chapel, at 1076 Madison Avenue, at 81st Street.

Lawrence, Gertrude
US.20180711.001 · Personne

Gertrude Lawrence was an English actress who starred in plays, musicals, and film.

Quant, Mary
US.20180907.005 · Personne

Mary Quant was a British fashion designer. Quant studied art education and illustration at Goldsmiths, where she graduated in 1953. In 1955, she and her husband, aristocrat Alexander Plunket Greene, and lawyer-turned-photographer Archie McNair opened a boutique named Bazaar, where they stocked Quant's own designs. After expanding and opening a second store in 1957, she signed a design contract with American department-store chain JC Penney in 1962. Quant is widely seen as very influential in 1960's and 1970's fashion and is often credited as inventing the mini-skirt, which was heavily popularized on '60's It-model Twiggy. Often cited as the 'mother of the miniskirt,' Quant created ready-to-wear designs for the hip, youth scene which was later dubbed Youthquake. She was granted an OBE by Queen Elizabeth II in 1966 and granted the title of Dame in 2015 for her services to British fashion.

Davis, Miles
US.20190516.005 · Personne · 1926 May 26-1991 September 28

"Over six full decades, from his arrival on the national scene in 1945 until his death in 1991, Miles Davis made music that grew from an uncanny talent to hear the future and a headstrong desire to play it. From his beginnings in the circle of modern jazz, he came to intuit new worlds of sound and challenge. While the vast majority of musicians – jazz, rock, R&B, otherwise – find the experimental charge and imperviousness of youth eventually running down, Miles forever forged ahead, trusting and following instinct until the end.

In doing so, Miles became the standard bearer for successive generations of musicians, shaped the course of modern improvisational music more than a half-dozen times. This biography attempts to explain those paradigm-shifts one after another, through his recordings and major life changes.

The factors leading to that process are now the foundation of the Miles Davis legend: the dentist’s son born in 1926 to middle-class comfort in East St Louis. The fresh acolyte learning trumpet in the fertile, blues-drenched music scene of his hometown. The sensitive soul forging a seething streetwise exterior that later earned him the title, Prince Of Darkness. The determined teenager convincing his parents to send him to New York’s famed Juilliard School of Music in 1944, a ploy allowing him to locate and join the band of his idol, bebop pioneer Charlie Parker.

It wasn’t long before the headstrong young arrival grew from sideman to leading his own projects and bands of renown, from the restrained, classical underpinning of the famous “Birth of the Cool” group (Miles’ first foray with arranger Gil Evans), to the blues-infused hardbop anthem “Walkin’”, to his first famous quintet (Coltrane, Chambers, Red Garland, Philly Joe Jones) with whom his recordings on muted trumpet helped him develop a signature sound that broke through to mainstream recognition. His subsequent jump from recording with independent labels (Prestige, Blue Note) to Columbia Records, then the Tiffany of record companies, propelled his career further from a limited jazz audience and a series of late ‘50s albums (Miles Ahead, Porgy & Bess, Miles Ahead, Kind of Blue and Sketches of Spain) secured his widespread popularity.

Miles’ group shifted and morphed through the early ‘60s until he settled for a four-year run with his classic quintet, a lineup that is still hailed today as one of the greatest and most influential jazz groups of all time. Their albums together — from Miles Smiles, ESP and Nefertiti, to Miles In The Sky, and Filles de Kilimanjaro — traced a pattern of unparalleled growth and innovation.

Had Miles stopped his progress at that point, he’d still be hailed as one of the greatest pioneers in jazz, but his creative momentum from the end of the ‘60s into the ‘70s would not let up. He was listening to the world around him — the amplified explosion of rock bands and the new, heavy-on-the-one funk of James Brown and Sly & The Family Stone. From the ambient hush of In A Silent Way, to the strange and unsettling – yet wildly popular Bitches Brew, he achieved another shift in musical paradigm and a personal career breakthrough.

Bitches Brew was controversial, a best-seller and attracted another, younger generation into the Miles fold. Thousands whose musical taste respected no categorical walls flocked to hear Miles, and a slew of fusion bands were soon spawned, led by his former sidemen: Weather Report, Mahavishnu Orchestra, Return To Forever. The studio albums that defined Miles’ kaleidoscopic sound in the ‘70s included a series of (mostly) double albums, from …Brew to 1971’s Live-Evil, ‘72’s On The Corner and ‘75’s Get Up With It. The covers listed populous line-ups that reached up to 11 musicians, adding new names to an ever-widening circle of on-call talent.

By the end of 1975, Miles was tired – and sick. A period of seclusion ensued, full years to deal with personal demons and health issues, bouncing between bouts of self-abuse and boredom. It was the longest time Miles had been off the public radar – only amplifying the appetite for his return.

When Miles reappeared in 1981, expectation had reached fever pitch. A final series of albums for Columbia reflected his continuing fascination with funk of the day (Rose Royce, Cameo, Chaka Khan and later, Prince), and the sounds of synthesizer and drum machines (Great Miles Shift Number 8). The Man With A Horn, We Want Miles and Decoy found him still working with Teo Macero and still surrounding himself with young talent, including bassist Darryl Jones (Rolling Stones). In 1985, his album You’re Under Arrest — with unexpected covers of recent pop charters (Michael Jackson’s “Human Nature” and Cyndi Lauper’s “Time After Time”) – brought the long Davis-Columbia association to a close. He embarked on a new relationship with Warner Bros. Records and producer Tommy LiPuma, scoring successes with Tutu (written in a large part by his bassist Marcus Miller), Music from Siesta (also with Miller), Amandla (featuring a new breed of soloists, including alto saxophonist Kenny Garrett, tenor saxophonist Rick Margitza, guitarist Jean-Paul Bourelly, keyboardist Joey DeFrancesco, and others) and Doo-Bop (his collaboration with hip hop producer Easy Moe Bee.)

Those titles proved Miles’ farewell, still pushing forward, still exploring new musical territory. Throughout his career, he had always resisted looking back, avoiding nostalgia and loathing leftovers. “It’s more like warmed-over turkey,” the eternal modernist described the music of Kind of Blue twenty-five years after recording it. Ironically, in 1991, only weeks after performing a career-overview concert in Paris that featured old friends and collaborators from as early as the ‘40s, he died from a brain aneurysm.

Like his music, Miles always spoke with an economy of expression. And for Miles, it had to be fresh, or forget it. “I don’t want you to like me because of Kind of Blue,” he insisted. “Like me for what we’re doing now.”" https://www.milesdavis.com/biography/

Autry, Gene, 1907-1998
US.20180702.003 · Personne · 1907-1998

Orvon Gene Autry was born on September 29th, 1907 in Tioga, Texas. His father was a cattle buyer, farmer, and preacher. Autry learned how to ride horses and play the guitar at a young age. Late in his teens, Autry worked as a telegrapher. His interest in show business began one night while working in Chelsea, Oklahoma. The actor Will Rogers came in to the depot Autry was working in, saw the guitar near the young man, and asked him to play. After hearing Autry, Rogers encouraged him to try to find work on the radio. After being turned down for work in New York, Autry got his first job in radio at a radio station in Tulsa. In 1928, Autry was back in New York but this time to record a song which became successful. This got Autry a contract with Columbia Records. His film career began six years after he cut his first record. Throughout the mid- and late-1930s, Autry's star kept rising. His cowboy persona was well regarded by both kids and adults. From 1938 to 1932, he was one of the top ten box-office draws in the nation. Autry continued to record music and star in films in the 1940s and 1950s, only retiring in 1964 at the age of 57. Gene Autry is perhaps best known as the singer of the original "Rudolf the Rednosed Reindeer," the second best-selling song in history. In addition to his work in the entertainment business, Autry owned a handful of profitable properties. Gene Autry passed away on October 2nd, 1998 at the age of 91.

Kawakubo, Rei, 1942-
US.20180702.046 · Personne · 1942-

Rei Kawakubo is a Japanese fashion designer. She is the founder of fashion label Comme des Garçons, established in 1973.

Medine, Leandra
US.20180711.023 · Personne · Unknown

Leandra Medine is an American fashion blogger and founder of the blog and brand, Man Repeller. Man Repeller ceased operations in the summer of 2020 following criticisms over the lack of diversity and support for the Black Lives Matter movement.

Phelps, Elspeth
US.20180702.042 · Personne · 1876-1968

Derived from http://www.beauxbooks.com/a-collection-of-original-fashion-illustrations-of-designs-by-the-couturier-elspeth-phelps.html:
Constance Elspeth Phelps was born in 1877 in Madeira, Portugal. She emigrated to England to work as a dressmaker and at the turn of the century was working under the court dressmaker Ada Nettleship (Augustus John's mother-in-law) in Wigmore Street. [Around] 1906 she opened her own London couture house in Albemarle Street. From here she designed gowns for Court and high society, as well as dressing the cream of London's theater stars, including Lily Elsie and Irene Castle. In 1920 she married Lionel Fox Pitt, by which name she is often referred. The fashion house continued to expand over the next two decades. In 1923 she formed an alliance with the London branch of the French fashion house Paquin; she sold the Elspeth Phelps name to them and opened a new showroom in Dover Street. The arrangement was not to end well and a very public court case ensued, with Paquin accusing Phelps of underhand dealings and Phelps suing Paquin for breach of contract. She managed to extricate herself from the arrangement and reopened her house as Elspeth Fox Pitt Ltd. in the late 1920s. The business continued to run for many years. Her London shop was bombed during the Second World War and she relocated her workrooms to Oxford. The company was closed in 1959. Phelps died on 10 March 1968.

Champcommunal, Elspeth
US.20180702.011 · Personne · 1888-1976

Born Elspeth Mary Hodgson in 1888, Elspeth Champcommunal was a notable socialite in the pre-WWI and interwar European art world. She married the French artist Joseph Champcommunal, who died tragically during the first year of WWI. In 1916, Champcommunal became the first editor of British Vogue. Beginning in the mid-1920s, Champcommunal ran her couture house in Paris. Champcommunal became head of the British operation of Worth in 1936, where she stayed until the mid-1950s. Champcommunal passed away on November 10, 1976.

de Juan, Eric
US.20180711.032 · Personne · Unknown

Primary sources are conflicting as to whether half-French, half-Cuban Eric de Juan was born in Cuba or France, but ancedotal evidence suggests he spent time as a youth in both, being educated mainly in France. At the age of 15 he dismayed his parents with the proclamation that he intended to become a couturier. As the son of a wealthy family, he was expected to take over his father's successful import business. His grandmother— "a great French lady,"—felt differently, and backed her grandson's dream whole-heartedly, converting a portion of her sumptuous home into a workroom and salon for him. Perhaps fleeing from the Nazi occupation of Paris, sometime around 1939, de Juan established a couture house in Cuba, where he became known as the "Mainbocher of Havana." Here he says, "I was very spoiled there...It got so that I could choose my own customers," from the the millionaire glitterati who flocked to the popular resort destination during the 1940s and 1950s. After being jailed six times by Castro for his "association with wealthy clients," and having his business and property seized by the state—his home was converted into the Soviet Embassay—de Juan fled to the US in February of 1964. de Juan's first job stateside was with the noted 7th Avenue coat and suit manufacturer Ben Zuckerman. Three years later, de Juan would replace Leslie Morris as the inhouse designer for the Bergdorf Goodman custom salon; perhaps his friendship as a youth in Cuba with Nena Menach, who was to become Mrs. Andrew Goodman facilitated this opportunity. This arrangement was not to last long; the custom salon would close its doors for financial reasons in May of 1969. de Juan remained on at Bergdorf's for a short period, designing for the store's Plaza Collection. By the mid 1970s, de Juan had left New York for sunnier shores, setting up a custom shop on Seaview Avenue in Palm Beach, Florida. Socialites and heiresses would rely upon him for day and evening looks as well as the wedding gowns of their daughters until at least the mid-1980s. The full extent of de Juan's operations in Florida is unclear, but at this point he had been working in the fashion industry for at least five decades. Information regarding date of death cannot be found.

Baghsarian, Arsho
US.20181012-011 · Personne

Arsho Baghsarian was born in Turkey to Armenian parents and immigrated to the United States in 1957, during her teen years, eager to study design. She would receive her Bachelor of Fine Arts degree with honors in fashion design From the Pratt Institute in New York in 1962.
That same year, after she competed in a competition for best student fashion design among the top ten fashion students in the country and received the prestigious annual N.Y. Fashion Designer Celanese Award, Baghsarian briefly designed sportswear on 7th Avenue. However, a phone call from former professor Laura Tosato Busgang was the catalyst that caused the young woman, who during adolescence had cut out and laced cardboard soles with bright ribbons, to begin what would become a successful career spanning more than forty-five years in the footwear industry. The phone call concerned a position with Genesco that was designed to reinvigorate it Christian Dior, a position Baghsarian gladly accepted in 1963. Six months later the Christian Dior division of Genesco merged with I Miller, another division of Genesco. Baghsarian took over design for the new label until 1969. Before leaving the label and pursuing other projects within the footwear industry, Baghsarian received the Pellon Award, as well as won the Leather Industries of America’s American Shoe Designer Award in the women’s best footwear category in 1968.
From 1969 to 1971, Baghsarian designed for Andrew Geller’s Etcetera & Adlib lines. After she teamed up with Jerry Miller and helped design his Margaret Jerrold and Shoe Biz lines. (Jerry Miller’s grandfather founded I. Miller, which he worked for until I. Miller was bought by Genesco and he started his own line.) She credits her fifteen years at the company as having a huge influence on her career years at the company run by Jerry Miller—credits him as having huge influence on her career since Miller’s Margaret Jerrold, Shoe Strings and Shoe Biz lines had her creating footwear in factories around the world from Spain to Italy to France and even becoming the first company to make fashion sandals at a price in mainland China. Miller was so impressed by Arsho’s work he created the Arsho for Shoe Biz label. The title of the line was fitting for a designer who did not remain behind the scenes and preferred instead to present her designs at trunk shows, such as at Lord & Taylor and Bonwit Teller and be on a first-name basis with customers.
In 1986 until 2008, Baghsarian designed for Stuart Weitzman & Company. During this time she also designed a couture line under the Arsho label, however, her talent led to Weitzman awarding her the label Arsho for Stuart Weitzman. She became the first full-time designer he collaborated with on his collection, which was not limited to casual stretch shoes, thongs, sneakers, mules, clogs, fur and mouton boots, bridal shoes and evening footwear complete with with pave stones and jeweled architectural heels. Within the company, Baghsarian was able to fully express her creativity, whether displaying her affinity for whimsical designs or her taste for glamor.
In January 2008, Baghsarian retired from the footwear industry and was inducted into Footwear News Hall of Fame. She now divides her time between Manhattan and Southhampton with her husband of more than forty years, fashion photographer and sculptor Avedis Baghsarian. Despite her retirement, she admits she will never stop designing.

Williams, Wheeler, 1897-1972
US.20180702.066 · Personne · 1897-1972

Wheeler Williams was an American sculptor, and co-founder and president of the American Artist Professional League.

Hilliard, Mary
US.20201008.005 · Personne · unknown

Mary Hiliard is an American fashion and society photographer. She got her start when a friend asked her to shoot a Giorgio Sant'Angelo runway show. Through this exposure she gained a strong working friendship with Sally Kirland. Through Kirkland, Hilliard was introduced to New York’s fashion elite, photographing designers such as Calvin Klein, Bill Blass, and Oscar de la Renta. As she began to work more with fashion houses, she became noticed and was hired to work as a freelance society photographer. Through this she was invited to photograph society weddings, elite events such as the Met Gala and other New York and American society events. Eventually her work became highly sought after around the world and she would go on to shoot notable foreign society members such as Princess Diana, Elton John, and Donatella Versace. In 2017. she said of her work and success: "I always wished to be a fly on the wall, to watch but not participate."

Neady, Frances
US.20180726.031 · Personne · Twentieth century

Frances Neady was an inspiring and dedicated teacher of fashion illustration who served on the faculties of FIT and the Parsons School of Design for a total of 40 years.

Barbier, George, 1882-1932
US.20180702.007 · Personne · 1882-1932

George Barbier was one of the great French illustrators of the early 20th century. Born in Nantes, France October 10, 1882, he was a student of J.P. Laurens at the Beaux-Arts and exhibited at the Salon des Humoristes in 1910 under the name of Edouard William. The following year he began working at the gallery of Boutet de Monvel. From 1912 to his death he regularly figured into Salon des Artistes Décorateurs and was the recipient of many prizes. For the next 20 years Barbier led a group from the École des Beaux Arts whom Vogue nicknamed "The Knights of the Bracelet"—a tribute to their fashionable and flamboyant mannerisms and style of dress. Included in this élite circle were Paul Iribe, Georges Lepape, Charles Martin, and his cousins Bernard Boutet de Monvel and Pierre Brissaud. He contributed to Gazette du Bon Ton, le Jardin des Dames et des Modes, Modes et Manières d'Aujourd'hui, Les Feuillets d'Art, Fémina, Vogue, and Comœdia Illustré. His career also included jewelry, glass, and wallpaper designs. Through the Max Weldy Studios he created a number of décors and costumes for the Folies Bergère and other music halls. He is credited with the costume for Rudolph Valentino in the movie Monsieur Beaucaire. In the mid 1920s he worked with Erté to design sets and costumes. In 1929 he wrote the introduction for Erté's acclaimed exhibition and achieved mainstream popularity through regular appearances in L'Illustration magazine. Barbier was also one of many artists who made a living illustrating limited "editions de luxe," intended to be collectors’ items due to their rarity and high standards of printing. Eagerly collected In France in the teens and twenties these classics and contemporary works were illustrated by leading artists of the day and often bound in lavish, specially designed bindings. Artists such as Guy Arnoux, George Barbier, Leon Benigni, Benito, Brunelleschi, Georges Lepape, Charles Martin, and Andre Marty found a lucrative demand for contributions which brought a considerable amount of prestige. The first book of this kind done by Barbier, in 1913, was an album of drawings of Nijinsky, the dancer, done in his various roles in the Ballets Russes. 1914 saw a similar album of Karsavina. Done mostly in black and white, it is in these that the similarity to Beardsley's style is most evident. After these albums, Barbier seemed to pull away from this style, using more color and less outlining to make his graphic statements. Barbier died in 1932 at the very pinnacle of his success.

One of the great French illustrators of the early 20th century, he was also a designer of theater and ballet costumes, a journalist and writer.
Barbier was born in Nantes, France and moved to Paris to study at the École des Beaux-Arts. There he studied alongside many of the fellow artists and illustrators later dubbed "The Knights of the Bracelet," by Vogue, which included Paul Iribe, Georges Lepape, and Charles Martin. Over the course of his career, he contributed to many popular journals of the day including Gazette du bon ton, Les feuillets d'art, Fémina, Vogue, and Comoedia Illustré. He created set designs and costumes for the Folies Bergère, and worked as an illustrator for artists’ books and “editions de luxe.” Very little documentation of Barbier’s personal life survives today; he died at the pinnacle of his success at the age of 50.

Fox, Barbara
US.20180702.096 · Personne

Barbara Fox is a painter and illustrator working in the United States. She has worked as a Master Designer for the United States Mint. She is a member of both the National Watercolor Society and the International Guild of Realism.

Greenhill, Fred
US.20180702.104 · Personne · 1925-2007

Fred Greenhill was an American fashion illustrator. He graduated from Parsons School of Design in 1950. He went on to work as a fashion illustrator for Neiman Marcus through1950s, and was the primary artist for Saks Fifth Avenue during the 1960s and early 1970s. Greenhill is most widely recognized for his Lord & Taylor illustrations, including the company's trademark long-stemmed rose.

Howard, Jim
US.20180711.010 · Personne · 1930-

"Jim Howard is an American fashion illustrator. Born in Texas in 1930, Howard began drawing at 8 years old. He graduated from the University of Texas with a Bachelor of Fine Arts and began his career as a window dresser for the Austin department store Goodfriends where he was occassionally allowed to created promotional drawings. He left his work at Goodfriends to join the US army during WWII. After returning to the US in 1950, he began work as a fashion illustrator for the Texas headquarters of Neiman Marcus. In the 1960s, Howard moved to New York where he began work as the artistic director for Franklin Simon & Co. After leaving Franklin Simon & Co, he began work as a freelance illustrator working for luxury fashion retailors such as: Saks Fifth Avenue, Bonwit Teller, B. Altman and Marshall Field’s. He worked consistently through the 1980s when photography took over as the primary medium for fashion representation.

Duncan, H.
US.20180702.089 · Personne
Gruau, René
US.20180702.102 · Personne · 1909-2004

Count Renato Zavagli Ricciardelli della Caminate, known professionaly as René Gruau, was an Italian fashion illustrator. First published at the age of 14 by fashion journal Lidel, by 18 Gruau had gained international recognition for his exaggerated portrayals of fashion designs through painting. He worked with many major fashion houses and designers including: Pierre Balmain, Christian Dior, Jacques Fath, Balenciaga, Elsa Schiaparelli, Rochas, Lanvin, Elizabeth Arden, and Hubert de Givenchy. His work was published in most fashion publications including: Marie-Claire, Femina, Elle, Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, Flair, L'Officiel, Madame Figaro, and L'Officiel de la Couture.

Herrmann, Robert
US.20180702.110 · Personne · unknown

Robert Herrmann and his wife Bertha were fashion illustrators in the 1950’s for Lord & Taylor. The richly detailed and highly realistic reproduction of men’s wear were created using watercolor and guache as well as other mediums. They also had the unique ability to use pen or brush using strong outlines - a technique that "perfectly accentuates fashion’s shape and form." Their work is largely credited with establishing the Lord & Taylor signature look which was featured in full page newspaper ads accompanied by the famous script logo

Knox, Robert
US.20180711.015 · Personne
Ely, Richard
US.20180702.092 · Personne · 1928-2009

Richard Ely was an American Fashion Illustrator. During the 1960s and 1970s, Ely produced illustrations for Saks Fifth Avenue and important fashion publications. In addition to his work as an illustrator, Ely taught at the Fashion Institute of Technology.

Kaish, Morton, 1927-
US.20180711.013 · Personne · 1927-

Morton Kaish (1927- ) is an American artist known for his paintings, prints, and fashion illustrations. During the 1950s and 1960s, Kaish worked as a fashion illustrator for publications such as Harper's Bazaar, Esquire, and Lord & Taylor. In addition, Kaish was a Professor of Art and Design at FIT for 25 years. While teaching at FIT, Kaish developed and led a study abroad program in Florence, Italy. Kaish has also been in Art-in-residence at a number of universities in the United States. His works have been featured in many museum exhibits across the country.

Kapp, Anneliese
US.20201014.003 · Personne · 1922-2009

Anneliese Kapp was born in Germany in 1922 and immigrated to New York in 1938. Kapp became a prominent fashion illustrator counting Bloomingdale's, Bally Shoes and Lacoste as clients. Her work regularly appeared in Women's Wear Daily and The New York Times.

Parker, Bob
US.20180726.029 · Personne
Pimsler, Alvin
US.20180726.023 · Personne · Unknown

Alvin Pimsler was an illustrator at Pratt Institute right before he got drafted into the war in 1941. Coming back, he continued his career as an illustrator and became the president of the Society of Illustrators and taught at FIT.

Purnell, Catherine Clayton
US.20180711.066 · Personne · Unknown

Catherine Clayton Purnell is a fashion illustrator whose work has graced the pages of Women's Wear Daily. She has also illustrated many books on clothing, style, and fashion. Her preferred medium were watercolor and colored pencils.

Beuglet, Jeffrey
US.20180702.085 · Personne · 1949-2017

Jeffrey Beuglet (March 28, 1949 - February 3, 2017) was an American fashion illustrator. In addition to his work as an illustrator, Beuglet taught at the Fashion at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco.

Herrmann, Bertha
US.20180702.109 · Personne · unknown

Bertha Herrmann and her husband Robert were fashion illustrators in the 1950’s for Lord & Taylor. The richly detailed and highly realistic reproduction of men’s wear were created using watercolor and guache as well as other mediums. They also had the unique ability to use pen or brush using strong outlines - a technique that "perfectly accentuates fashion’s shape and form." Their work is largely credited with establishing the Lord & Taylor signature look which was featured in full page newspaper ads accompanied by the famous script logo

Peters, Joseph
US.20180726.022 · Personne · Unknown

Jonathan Joseph Peters is an American designer exploring the folcrum between avant-garde and ready to wear. He specializes in cocktail, special occasion, and custom work and appeared on season 7 of "Project Runway."