Risultati 1283

Record d'autorità
Velde, Henry van de, 1863-1957
US.20180702.061 · Persona · 1863-1957

Henry van de Velde was born in Antwerp in 1863 where he trained at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts. His career began as a painter before turning to the decorative arts and architecture. He was the founder of two revolutionary art schools in Europe - one in Germany and one in Belgium.

Koolhaas, Rem
US.20180711.016 · Persona

Rem Koolhaas is a Dutch architect.

Menn, Christian, 1927-
US.20180711.025 · Persona · 1927-

Christian Menn was a Swiss engineer most well known for the technical and aesthetic quality of his bridges.

Davies, Marion, 1897-1961
US.20180702.028 · Persona · 1897-1961

Marion Davies (born Marion Cecilia Douras in 1897) was an American actress. Her career began on Broadway, working with the great directors and producers of the day, including Florenz Ziegfeld. While performing in Ziegfeld's Follies, she met William Randolph Hearst, the newspaper magnate. Although Hearst was married, the two entered into a passionate affair that would last until Hearst's death in 1951. With Hearst's backing, Davies became one of the most publicized actresses of the silent era. In Hollywood, Davies starred in over 40 films, including 16 "talkies." She retired from acting in the mid-1930s. She spent the rest of her life between Hollywood and San Simeon, where Hearst had a large estate. After Hearst passed away, Davies entered her first and only marriage with Horace G. Brown. Marion Davies passed away on September 22, 1961 at the age of 64.

Hubert, René
US.20180711.011 · Persona
Pope, Virginia
US.20180907.007 · Persona · 1885 June 29-1978 January 16

Virginia Pope, the fashion editor of The New York Times from 1933 to 1955, died yesterday morning in her borne at 419 East 570‐Street. She was 92 years old and had suffered a stroke three years ago. Miss Pope, who joined The Times in 1925 and became fashion editor eight years later, encouraged the young fashion industry just emerging on Seventh Avenue and set standards of taste for young designers. “I think she invented the reporting of fashion,” Pauline Trigere. the fashion designer, said yesterday. “Nobody thought of describing a dress as a news event before she did.” “She was a very knowledgeable woman,” said Geoffrey Beene. “When first began to work in New York as designer, I was completely in awe of her. She was one of the great ladies of fashion. She and the late Jessica Daves were sort of synonymous with me for their taste.” Students at the Fashion Institute of Technology and designers struggling to get a foothold in the business found her a helpful guide. As holder of the institute's Edwin Goodman chair, endowed by Bergdorf Goodman, Miss Pope was a familiar sight on Seventh Avenue until recent years, taking her students to fashion shows and showing them how a business worked behind the scenes. She also appeared regularly on Monday night at the Metropolitan Opera with six students because she felt exposure to culture was essential to the development of a fashion designer. After her retirement from The New York Times, Miss Pope joined the staff of Parade magazine as fashion editor. At her death, her name still appeared on the masthead. In 1942, she originated the “Fashions of the Times,” a fashion show she staged each fall for the next nine years that served as a showcase for American designers. “I was damn proud of being in it,” Miss Trigere recalled. “We all were.” In 1952, the stage presentation was transformed into a fashion supplement with the same name, which The Times still publishes. Miss Pope owned hundreds of hats and almost never wore the same dress and accessories two days running. “I'm drunkard about hats,” she once said. “I cannot bear to throw one away.” Although she dressed in an establishment way, she understood innovations, Mr. Beene recalled. “She could look at clothes objectively,” he added. “That is a great talent.” Miss Pope was one of the first fashion reporters who invaded the wholesale fashion markets for news, to see how clothes were made. And she considered the people who made them news makers as well. In the 1930's and earlier, the only legitimate fashion news was thought to be style changes emanating from Paris. Miss Pope was born in Chicago on June 29, 1885, the daughter of Francis C. and Betty Hamilton Pope. Her father died when she was 5 years old, and she and her mother toured Europe, where she became fluent in French, German and Italian. They did not return to Chicago until she was 20. During World War I, she left again to join the Red Cross. After the war, Miss Pope tried several careers, going into social work at Hull House in Chicago under Jane Addams and appearing as a dancer at the Maxine Elliott Theater in New York City with Yvette Guilbert, the French singer. She wrote an article on the Oberammergau Players from Germany, who were appearing in New York, and sent it to The Times. The article, which she obtained by speaking German to one of the players, was her first published piece. She followed it with Christmas articles set in an Italian neighborhood, where she had to use her Italian. Soon afterward, Miss Pope was hired by The Times as a member of the Sunday staff. In 1937, she obtained radio photographs of the Paris fashion openings for the newspaper and two years later a full fashion page on the Duchess of Windsor. She reported on the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953. Miss Pope, who served as president of the New York Newspaperwomen's Club, received the Neiman‐Marcus Award in 1948 for outstanding contribution to the fashion field. She is survived by a niece, Betty Pope, and a nephew, Francis Pope Jr. Funeral services will be held on Thursday at 11 A.M. in the Frank E. Campbell Funeral Chapel, at 1076 Madison Avenue, at 81st Street.

Lawrence, Gertrude
US.20180711.001 · Persona

Gertrude Lawrence was an English actress who starred in plays, musicals, and film.

Quant, Mary
US.20180907.005 · Persona

Mary Quant was a British fashion designer. Quant studied art education and illustration at Goldsmiths, where she graduated in 1953. In 1955, she and her husband, aristocrat Alexander Plunket Greene, and lawyer-turned-photographer Archie McNair opened a boutique named Bazaar, where they stocked Quant's own designs. After expanding and opening a second store in 1957, she signed a design contract with American department-store chain JC Penney in 1962. Quant is widely seen as very influential in 1960's and 1970's fashion and is often credited as inventing the mini-skirt, which was heavily popularized on '60's It-model Twiggy. Often cited as the 'mother of the miniskirt,' Quant created ready-to-wear designs for the hip, youth scene which was later dubbed Youthquake. She was granted an OBE by Queen Elizabeth II in 1966 and granted the title of Dame in 2015 for her services to British fashion.

Davis, Miles
US.20190516.005 · Persona · 1926 May 26-1991 September 28

"Over six full decades, from his arrival on the national scene in 1945 until his death in 1991, Miles Davis made music that grew from an uncanny talent to hear the future and a headstrong desire to play it. From his beginnings in the circle of modern jazz, he came to intuit new worlds of sound and challenge. While the vast majority of musicians – jazz, rock, R&B, otherwise – find the experimental charge and imperviousness of youth eventually running down, Miles forever forged ahead, trusting and following instinct until the end.

In doing so, Miles became the standard bearer for successive generations of musicians, shaped the course of modern improvisational music more than a half-dozen times. This biography attempts to explain those paradigm-shifts one after another, through his recordings and major life changes.

The factors leading to that process are now the foundation of the Miles Davis legend: the dentist’s son born in 1926 to middle-class comfort in East St Louis. The fresh acolyte learning trumpet in the fertile, blues-drenched music scene of his hometown. The sensitive soul forging a seething streetwise exterior that later earned him the title, Prince Of Darkness. The determined teenager convincing his parents to send him to New York’s famed Juilliard School of Music in 1944, a ploy allowing him to locate and join the band of his idol, bebop pioneer Charlie Parker.

It wasn’t long before the headstrong young arrival grew from sideman to leading his own projects and bands of renown, from the restrained, classical underpinning of the famous “Birth of the Cool” group (Miles’ first foray with arranger Gil Evans), to the blues-infused hardbop anthem “Walkin’”, to his first famous quintet (Coltrane, Chambers, Red Garland, Philly Joe Jones) with whom his recordings on muted trumpet helped him develop a signature sound that broke through to mainstream recognition. His subsequent jump from recording with independent labels (Prestige, Blue Note) to Columbia Records, then the Tiffany of record companies, propelled his career further from a limited jazz audience and a series of late ‘50s albums (Miles Ahead, Porgy & Bess, Miles Ahead, Kind of Blue and Sketches of Spain) secured his widespread popularity.

Miles’ group shifted and morphed through the early ‘60s until he settled for a four-year run with his classic quintet, a lineup that is still hailed today as one of the greatest and most influential jazz groups of all time. Their albums together — from Miles Smiles, ESP and Nefertiti, to Miles In The Sky, and Filles de Kilimanjaro — traced a pattern of unparalleled growth and innovation.

Had Miles stopped his progress at that point, he’d still be hailed as one of the greatest pioneers in jazz, but his creative momentum from the end of the ‘60s into the ‘70s would not let up. He was listening to the world around him — the amplified explosion of rock bands and the new, heavy-on-the-one funk of James Brown and Sly & The Family Stone. From the ambient hush of In A Silent Way, to the strange and unsettling – yet wildly popular Bitches Brew, he achieved another shift in musical paradigm and a personal career breakthrough.

Bitches Brew was controversial, a best-seller and attracted another, younger generation into the Miles fold. Thousands whose musical taste respected no categorical walls flocked to hear Miles, and a slew of fusion bands were soon spawned, led by his former sidemen: Weather Report, Mahavishnu Orchestra, Return To Forever. The studio albums that defined Miles’ kaleidoscopic sound in the ‘70s included a series of (mostly) double albums, from …Brew to 1971’s Live-Evil, ‘72’s On The Corner and ‘75’s Get Up With It. The covers listed populous line-ups that reached up to 11 musicians, adding new names to an ever-widening circle of on-call talent.

By the end of 1975, Miles was tired – and sick. A period of seclusion ensued, full years to deal with personal demons and health issues, bouncing between bouts of self-abuse and boredom. It was the longest time Miles had been off the public radar – only amplifying the appetite for his return.

When Miles reappeared in 1981, expectation had reached fever pitch. A final series of albums for Columbia reflected his continuing fascination with funk of the day (Rose Royce, Cameo, Chaka Khan and later, Prince), and the sounds of synthesizer and drum machines (Great Miles Shift Number 8). The Man With A Horn, We Want Miles and Decoy found him still working with Teo Macero and still surrounding himself with young talent, including bassist Darryl Jones (Rolling Stones). In 1985, his album You’re Under Arrest — with unexpected covers of recent pop charters (Michael Jackson’s “Human Nature” and Cyndi Lauper’s “Time After Time”) – brought the long Davis-Columbia association to a close. He embarked on a new relationship with Warner Bros. Records and producer Tommy LiPuma, scoring successes with Tutu (written in a large part by his bassist Marcus Miller), Music from Siesta (also with Miller), Amandla (featuring a new breed of soloists, including alto saxophonist Kenny Garrett, tenor saxophonist Rick Margitza, guitarist Jean-Paul Bourelly, keyboardist Joey DeFrancesco, and others) and Doo-Bop (his collaboration with hip hop producer Easy Moe Bee.)

Those titles proved Miles’ farewell, still pushing forward, still exploring new musical territory. Throughout his career, he had always resisted looking back, avoiding nostalgia and loathing leftovers. “It’s more like warmed-over turkey,” the eternal modernist described the music of Kind of Blue twenty-five years after recording it. Ironically, in 1991, only weeks after performing a career-overview concert in Paris that featured old friends and collaborators from as early as the ‘40s, he died from a brain aneurysm.

Like his music, Miles always spoke with an economy of expression. And for Miles, it had to be fresh, or forget it. “I don’t want you to like me because of Kind of Blue,” he insisted. “Like me for what we’re doing now.”" https://www.milesdavis.com/biography/

Autry, Gene, 1907-1998
US.20180702.003 · Persona · 1907-1998

Orvon Gene Autry was born on September 29th, 1907 in Tioga, Texas. His father was a cattle buyer, farmer, and preacher. Autry learned how to ride horses and play the guitar at a young age. Late in his teens, Autry worked as a telegrapher. His interest in show business began one night while working in Chelsea, Oklahoma. The actor Will Rogers came in to the depot Autry was working in, saw the guitar near the young man, and asked him to play. After hearing Autry, Rogers encouraged him to try to find work on the radio. After being turned down for work in New York, Autry got his first job in radio at a radio station in Tulsa. In 1928, Autry was back in New York but this time to record a song which became successful. This got Autry a contract with Columbia Records. His film career began six years after he cut his first record. Throughout the mid- and late-1930s, Autry's star kept rising. His cowboy persona was well regarded by both kids and adults. From 1938 to 1932, he was one of the top ten box-office draws in the nation. Autry continued to record music and star in films in the 1940s and 1950s, only retiring in 1964 at the age of 57. Gene Autry is perhaps best known as the singer of the original "Rudolf the Rednosed Reindeer," the second best-selling song in history. In addition to his work in the entertainment business, Autry owned a handful of profitable properties. Gene Autry passed away on October 2nd, 1998 at the age of 91.

Kawakubo, Rei, 1942-
US.20180702.046 · Persona · 1942-

Rei Kawakubo is a Japanese fashion designer. She is the founder of fashion label Comme des Garçons, established in 1973.

Medine, Leandra
US.20180711.023 · Persona · Unknown

Leandra Medine is an American fashion blogger and founder of the blog and brand, Man Repeller. Man Repeller ceased operations in the summer of 2020 following criticisms over the lack of diversity and support for the Black Lives Matter movement.

Phelps, Elspeth
US.20180702.042 · Persona · 1876-1968

Derived from http://www.beauxbooks.com/a-collection-of-original-fashion-illustrations-of-designs-by-the-couturier-elspeth-phelps.html:
Constance Elspeth Phelps was born in 1877 in Madeira, Portugal. She emigrated to England to work as a dressmaker and at the turn of the century was working under the court dressmaker Ada Nettleship (Augustus John's mother-in-law) in Wigmore Street. [Around] 1906 she opened her own London couture house in Albemarle Street. From here she designed gowns for Court and high society, as well as dressing the cream of London's theater stars, including Lily Elsie and Irene Castle. In 1920 she married Lionel Fox Pitt, by which name she is often referred. The fashion house continued to expand over the next two decades. In 1923 she formed an alliance with the London branch of the French fashion house Paquin; she sold the Elspeth Phelps name to them and opened a new showroom in Dover Street. The arrangement was not to end well and a very public court case ensued, with Paquin accusing Phelps of underhand dealings and Phelps suing Paquin for breach of contract. She managed to extricate herself from the arrangement and reopened her house as Elspeth Fox Pitt Ltd. in the late 1920s. The business continued to run for many years. Her London shop was bombed during the Second World War and she relocated her workrooms to Oxford. The company was closed in 1959. Phelps died on 10 March 1968.

Champcommunal, Elspeth
US.20180702.011 · Persona · 1888-1976

Born Elspeth Mary Hodgson in 1888, Elspeth Champcommunal was a notable socialite in the pre-WWI and interwar European art world. She married the French artist Joseph Champcommunal, who died tragically during the first year of WWI. In 1916, Champcommunal became the first editor of British Vogue. Beginning in the mid-1920s, Champcommunal ran her couture house in Paris. Champcommunal became head of the British operation of Worth in 1936, where she stayed until the mid-1950s. Champcommunal passed away on November 10, 1976.

de Juan, Eric
US.20180711.032 · Persona · Unknown

Primary sources are conflicting as to whether half-French, half-Cuban Eric de Juan was born in Cuba or France, but ancedotal evidence suggests he spent time as a youth in both, being educated mainly in France. At the age of 15 he dismayed his parents with the proclamation that he intended to become a couturier. As the son of a wealthy family, he was expected to take over his father's successful import business. His grandmother— "a great French lady,"—felt differently, and backed her grandson's dream whole-heartedly, converting a portion of her sumptuous home into a workroom and salon for him. Perhaps fleeing from the Nazi occupation of Paris, sometime around 1939, de Juan established a couture house in Cuba, where he became known as the "Mainbocher of Havana." Here he says, "I was very spoiled there...It got so that I could choose my own customers," from the the millionaire glitterati who flocked to the popular resort destination during the 1940s and 1950s. After being jailed six times by Castro for his "association with wealthy clients," and having his business and property seized by the state—his home was converted into the Soviet Embassay—de Juan fled to the US in February of 1964. de Juan's first job stateside was with the noted 7th Avenue coat and suit manufacturer Ben Zuckerman. Three years later, de Juan would replace Leslie Morris as the inhouse designer for the Bergdorf Goodman custom salon; perhaps his friendship as a youth in Cuba with Nena Menach, who was to become Mrs. Andrew Goodman facilitated this opportunity. This arrangement was not to last long; the custom salon would close its doors for financial reasons in May of 1969. de Juan remained on at Bergdorf's for a short period, designing for the store's Plaza Collection. By the mid 1970s, de Juan had left New York for sunnier shores, setting up a custom shop on Seaview Avenue in Palm Beach, Florida. Socialites and heiresses would rely upon him for day and evening looks as well as the wedding gowns of their daughters until at least the mid-1980s. The full extent of de Juan's operations in Florida is unclear, but at this point he had been working in the fashion industry for at least five decades. Information regarding date of death cannot be found.

Baghsarian, Arsho
US.20181012-011 · Persona

Arsho Baghsarian was born in Turkey to Armenian parents and immigrated to the United States in 1957, during her teen years, eager to study design. She would receive her Bachelor of Fine Arts degree with honors in fashion design From the Pratt Institute in New York in 1962.
That same year, after she competed in a competition for best student fashion design among the top ten fashion students in the country and received the prestigious annual N.Y. Fashion Designer Celanese Award, Baghsarian briefly designed sportswear on 7th Avenue. However, a phone call from former professor Laura Tosato Busgang was the catalyst that caused the young woman, who during adolescence had cut out and laced cardboard soles with bright ribbons, to begin what would become a successful career spanning more than forty-five years in the footwear industry. The phone call concerned a position with Genesco that was designed to reinvigorate it Christian Dior, a position Baghsarian gladly accepted in 1963. Six months later the Christian Dior division of Genesco merged with I Miller, another division of Genesco. Baghsarian took over design for the new label until 1969. Before leaving the label and pursuing other projects within the footwear industry, Baghsarian received the Pellon Award, as well as won the Leather Industries of America’s American Shoe Designer Award in the women’s best footwear category in 1968.
From 1969 to 1971, Baghsarian designed for Andrew Geller’s Etcetera & Adlib lines. After she teamed up with Jerry Miller and helped design his Margaret Jerrold and Shoe Biz lines. (Jerry Miller’s grandfather founded I. Miller, which he worked for until I. Miller was bought by Genesco and he started his own line.) She credits her fifteen years at the company as having a huge influence on her career years at the company run by Jerry Miller—credits him as having huge influence on her career since Miller’s Margaret Jerrold, Shoe Strings and Shoe Biz lines had her creating footwear in factories around the world from Spain to Italy to France and even becoming the first company to make fashion sandals at a price in mainland China. Miller was so impressed by Arsho’s work he created the Arsho for Shoe Biz label. The title of the line was fitting for a designer who did not remain behind the scenes and preferred instead to present her designs at trunk shows, such as at Lord & Taylor and Bonwit Teller and be on a first-name basis with customers.
In 1986 until 2008, Baghsarian designed for Stuart Weitzman & Company. During this time she also designed a couture line under the Arsho label, however, her talent led to Weitzman awarding her the label Arsho for Stuart Weitzman. She became the first full-time designer he collaborated with on his collection, which was not limited to casual stretch shoes, thongs, sneakers, mules, clogs, fur and mouton boots, bridal shoes and evening footwear complete with with pave stones and jeweled architectural heels. Within the company, Baghsarian was able to fully express her creativity, whether displaying her affinity for whimsical designs or her taste for glamor.
In January 2008, Baghsarian retired from the footwear industry and was inducted into Footwear News Hall of Fame. She now divides her time between Manhattan and Southhampton with her husband of more than forty years, fashion photographer and sculptor Avedis Baghsarian. Despite her retirement, she admits she will never stop designing.

Williams, Wheeler, 1897-1972
US.20180702.066 · Persona · 1897-1972

Wheeler Williams was an American sculptor, and co-founder and president of the American Artist Professional League.

Hilliard, Mary
US.20201008.005 · Persona · unknown

Mary Hiliard is an American fashion and society photographer. She got her start when a friend asked her to shoot a Giorgio Sant'Angelo runway show. Through this exposure she gained a strong working friendship with Sally Kirland. Through Kirkland, Hilliard was introduced to New York’s fashion elite, photographing designers such as Calvin Klein, Bill Blass, and Oscar de la Renta. As she began to work more with fashion houses, she became noticed and was hired to work as a freelance society photographer. Through this she was invited to photograph society weddings, elite events such as the Met Gala and other New York and American society events. Eventually her work became highly sought after around the world and she would go on to shoot notable foreign society members such as Princess Diana, Elton John, and Donatella Versace. In 2017. she said of her work and success: "I always wished to be a fly on the wall, to watch but not participate."

Neady, Frances
US.20180726.031 · Persona · Twentieth century

Frances Neady was an inspiring and dedicated teacher of fashion illustration who served on the faculties of FIT and the Parsons School of Design for a total of 40 years.

Barbier, George, 1882-1932
US.20180702.007 · Persona · 1882-1932

George Barbier was one of the great French illustrators of the early 20th century. Born in Nantes, France October 10, 1882, he was a student of J.P. Laurens at the Beaux-Arts and exhibited at the Salon des Humoristes in 1910 under the name of Edouard William. The following year he began working at the gallery of Boutet de Monvel. From 1912 to his death he regularly figured into Salon des Artistes Décorateurs and was the recipient of many prizes. For the next 20 years Barbier led a group from the École des Beaux Arts whom Vogue nicknamed "The Knights of the Bracelet"—a tribute to their fashionable and flamboyant mannerisms and style of dress. Included in this élite circle were Paul Iribe, Georges Lepape, Charles Martin, and his cousins Bernard Boutet de Monvel and Pierre Brissaud. He contributed to Gazette du Bon Ton, le Jardin des Dames et des Modes, Modes et Manières d'Aujourd'hui, Les Feuillets d'Art, Fémina, Vogue, and Comœdia Illustré. His career also included jewelry, glass, and wallpaper designs. Through the Max Weldy Studios he created a number of décors and costumes for the Folies Bergère and other music halls. He is credited with the costume for Rudolph Valentino in the movie Monsieur Beaucaire. In the mid 1920s he worked with Erté to design sets and costumes. In 1929 he wrote the introduction for Erté's acclaimed exhibition and achieved mainstream popularity through regular appearances in L'Illustration magazine. Barbier was also one of many artists who made a living illustrating limited "editions de luxe," intended to be collectors’ items due to their rarity and high standards of printing. Eagerly collected In France in the teens and twenties these classics and contemporary works were illustrated by leading artists of the day and often bound in lavish, specially designed bindings. Artists such as Guy Arnoux, George Barbier, Leon Benigni, Benito, Brunelleschi, Georges Lepape, Charles Martin, and Andre Marty found a lucrative demand for contributions which brought a considerable amount of prestige. The first book of this kind done by Barbier, in 1913, was an album of drawings of Nijinsky, the dancer, done in his various roles in the Ballets Russes. 1914 saw a similar album of Karsavina. Done mostly in black and white, it is in these that the similarity to Beardsley's style is most evident. After these albums, Barbier seemed to pull away from this style, using more color and less outlining to make his graphic statements. Barbier died in 1932 at the very pinnacle of his success.

One of the great French illustrators of the early 20th century, he was also a designer of theater and ballet costumes, a journalist and writer.
Barbier was born in Nantes, France and moved to Paris to study at the École des Beaux-Arts. There he studied alongside many of the fellow artists and illustrators later dubbed "The Knights of the Bracelet," by Vogue, which included Paul Iribe, Georges Lepape, and Charles Martin. Over the course of his career, he contributed to many popular journals of the day including Gazette du bon ton, Les feuillets d'art, Fémina, Vogue, and Comoedia Illustré. He created set designs and costumes for the Folies Bergère, and worked as an illustrator for artists’ books and “editions de luxe.” Very little documentation of Barbier’s personal life survives today; he died at the pinnacle of his success at the age of 50.

Fox, Barbara
US.20180702.096 · Persona

Barbara Fox is a painter and illustrator working in the United States. She has worked as a Master Designer for the United States Mint. She is a member of both the National Watercolor Society and the International Guild of Realism.

Greenhill, Fred
US.20180702.104 · Persona · 1925-2007

Fred Greenhill was an American fashion illustrator. He graduated from Parsons School of Design in 1950. He went on to work as a fashion illustrator for Neiman Marcus through1950s, and was the primary artist for Saks Fifth Avenue during the 1960s and early 1970s. Greenhill is most widely recognized for his Lord & Taylor illustrations, including the company's trademark long-stemmed rose.

Howard, Jim
US.20180711.010 · Persona · 1930-

"Jim Howard is an American fashion illustrator. Born in Texas in 1930, Howard began drawing at 8 years old. He graduated from the University of Texas with a Bachelor of Fine Arts and began his career as a window dresser for the Austin department store Goodfriends where he was occassionally allowed to created promotional drawings. He left his work at Goodfriends to join the US army during WWII. After returning to the US in 1950, he began work as a fashion illustrator for the Texas headquarters of Neiman Marcus. In the 1960s, Howard moved to New York where he began work as the artistic director for Franklin Simon & Co. After leaving Franklin Simon & Co, he began work as a freelance illustrator working for luxury fashion retailors such as: Saks Fifth Avenue, Bonwit Teller, B. Altman and Marshall Field’s. He worked consistently through the 1980s when photography took over as the primary medium for fashion representation.

Duncan, H.
US.20180702.089 · Persona
Gruau, René
US.20180702.102 · Persona · 1909-2004

Count Renato Zavagli Ricciardelli della Caminate, known professionaly as René Gruau, was an Italian fashion illustrator. First published at the age of 14 by fashion journal Lidel, by 18 Gruau had gained international recognition for his exaggerated portrayals of fashion designs through painting. He worked with many major fashion houses and designers including: Pierre Balmain, Christian Dior, Jacques Fath, Balenciaga, Elsa Schiaparelli, Rochas, Lanvin, Elizabeth Arden, and Hubert de Givenchy. His work was published in most fashion publications including: Marie-Claire, Femina, Elle, Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, Flair, L'Officiel, Madame Figaro, and L'Officiel de la Couture.

Herrmann, Robert
US.20180702.110 · Persona · unknown

Robert Herrmann and his wife Bertha were fashion illustrators in the 1950’s for Lord & Taylor. The richly detailed and highly realistic reproduction of men’s wear were created using watercolor and guache as well as other mediums. They also had the unique ability to use pen or brush using strong outlines - a technique that "perfectly accentuates fashion’s shape and form." Their work is largely credited with establishing the Lord & Taylor signature look which was featured in full page newspaper ads accompanied by the famous script logo

Haag, Peg Roth
US.20180702.105 · Persona
Knox, Robert
US.20180711.015 · Persona
Weisberg, Mike
US.20181012-005 · Persona
Ely, Richard
US.20180702.092 · Persona · 1928-2009

Richard Ely was an American Fashion Illustrator. During the 1960s and 1970s, Ely produced illustrations for Saks Fifth Avenue and important fashion publications. In addition to his work as an illustrator, Ely taught at the Fashion Institute of Technology.

Kaish, Morton, 1927-
US.20180711.013 · Persona · 1927-

Morton Kaish (1927- ) is an American artist known for his paintings, prints, and fashion illustrations. During the 1950s and 1960s, Kaish worked as a fashion illustrator for publications such as Harper's Bazaar, Esquire, and Lord & Taylor. In addition, Kaish was a Professor of Art and Design at FIT for 25 years. While teaching at FIT, Kaish developed and led a study abroad program in Florence, Italy. Kaish has also been in Art-in-residence at a number of universities in the United States. His works have been featured in many museum exhibits across the country.

Kapp, Anneliese
US.20201014.003 · Persona · 1922-2009

Anneliese Kapp was born in Germany in 1922 and immigrated to New York in 1938. Kapp became a prominent fashion illustrator counting Bloomingdale's, Bally Shoes and Lacoste as clients. Her work regularly appeared in Women's Wear Daily and The New York Times.

Larson, Esther
US.20181006-008 · Persona
Parker, Bob
US.20180726.029 · Persona
Pimsler, Alvin
US.20180726.023 · Persona · Unknown

Alvin Pimsler was an illustrator at Pratt Institute right before he got drafted into the war in 1941. Coming back, he continued his career as an illustrator and became the president of the Society of Illustrators and taught at FIT.

Purnell, Catherine Clayton
US.20180711.066 · Persona · Unknown

Catherine Clayton Purnell is a fashion illustrator whose work has graced the pages of Women's Wear Daily. She has also illustrated many books on clothing, style, and fashion. Her preferred medium were watercolor and colored pencils.

Beuglet, Jeffrey
US.20180702.085 · Persona · 1949-2017

Jeffrey Beuglet (March 28, 1949 - February 3, 2017) was an American fashion illustrator. In addition to his work as an illustrator, Beuglet taught at the Fashion at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco.

Herrmann, Bertha
US.20180702.109 · Persona · unknown

Bertha Herrmann and her husband Robert were fashion illustrators in the 1950’s for Lord & Taylor. The richly detailed and highly realistic reproduction of men’s wear were created using watercolor and guache as well as other mediums. They also had the unique ability to use pen or brush using strong outlines - a technique that "perfectly accentuates fashion’s shape and form." Their work is largely credited with establishing the Lord & Taylor signature look which was featured in full page newspaper ads accompanied by the famous script logo

Peters, Joseph
US.20180726.022 · Persona · Unknown

Jonathan Joseph Peters is an American designer exploring the folcrum between avant-garde and ready to wear. He specializes in cocktail, special occasion, and custom work and appeared on season 7 of "Project Runway."

Zenou, Izak
US.20180711.031 · Persona · Unknown

Izak Zenou is a fashion illustrator who has worked for numerous brands and publications including Chanel, Celine, Henri Bendel, L’Oreal, Sephora, Rizzoli, Vogue, Elle, and Marie Claire.

Donovan, Bil
US.20180702.032 · Persona

Bil Donovan is an American fashion illustrator. His client list reads like a who's who in fashion: Christian Dior, Vogue, and L’Occitane are just some of the companies Donovan has worked with. In addition to his work as an illustrator, Donovan teaches at the Fashion Institute of Technology as well as The School of Visual Arts in New York City.

Derro, John
US.20190516.007 · Persona

During the late 1940s, John Derro was working as a costume designer on Broadway before transitioning into women's ready-to wear in the early 1950s. For the manufacturer Mainstreet he designed high-end women's rain gear before the company placed him at the helm of their Young Couture subsidiary line. In 1958, he was honored by Bloomingdale's as a top young American designer. Sometime around 1962, Derro left Mainstreet for the head design position at the 7th Avenue label David Hart. In 1963, following the retirement of Evelyn Dawson, Derro became the designer for the Suzy Perette line, which Dawson and a partner had established.

Richard, T.
US.20180711.057 · Persona
Conrad, Giorgio
US.20181013-002 · Persona · 1827-1889

Giorgio Conrad (1827–1889) was an Swiss-born Italian photographer active in the mid-19th century.

Reinecke, F.
US.20180711.059 · Persona
Castle, Irene, 1893-1969
US.20180702.082 · Persona · 1893-1969

Irene Castle (1893–1969) was an American ballroom dancer. Castle was born Irene Foote in New Rochelle New York and began dancing at a young age. She met her husband, Vernon Castle, in 1910, and a year later, the couple was married. The newlyweds began working as a team, dancing in both North America and Europe during the early 1910s. In Paris, the Castles debuted new American dances, such as the Turkey Trot, and became the toasts of the town. When they returned to New York in 1912, the couple were hired to dance on Broadway and in Films. Their stylized "Foxtrot" and "Castle Walk" became dance crazes in America. Irene Castle was a trendsetter and served as an inspiration for fashion designers of the period. Her influence caused skirts to rise and balloon and corsets to become less stiff. The fashion designer Lucile provided Castle with a good deal of designs. After Vernon Castle passed away in 1918, Irene continued dancing, but never reached the same level of fame as she did during the 1910s.

Ramos, Ramona
US.20180711.064 · Persona
Burrows, Stephen, 1943-
US.20180702.018 · Persona · 1943-

Stephen Gerald Burrows was born on September 15, 1943 in Newark, NJ. He attended the Philadelphia Museum College of Art from 1961-1963 and then attended the Fashion Institute of Technology (F.I.T) from 1964-1966, where he graduated with a degree in fashion design. Successfully selling his garments to his friends or the "commune" as he referred to them, he co-founded "O" Boutique in 1968 on Park Avenue South.Burrows' use of color, color combinations, and fabrics was unheard of at this time. Burrows was influenced by rhythm and dance inspiring garments with a softer, slimmer silhouette that moved with the body and as a finishing touch, he originated the "Lettuce Edge", which is still in use today. In 1970, the fashion industry took notice of Burrows' innovative designs, where he was hired by Henri Bendel and given a boutique named "Stephen Burrows World". In 1973, Burrows was chosen to be a part of a collaborative fashion benefit between the United States and France at the Palace of Versailles, where Burrows and American fashion became an international sensation. Following his success, Burrows received the Coty award in 1973, 1974 and 1977. Burrows later left Bendel to open his own business on seventh avenue, marking his hiatus from the fashion industry until 2002. On February 13th, 2002 "Stephen Burrows World" reopened at Henri Bendel, reintroducing Burrows into the fashion world. In 2006, Burrows received the CFDA's Board of Directors Special Tribute after 40 years as a designer.

Christopher, Dennis
US.20181013-004 · Persona · 1955-

Dennis Christopher (1955 - ) is an American actor known for "Breaking Away" and "Django Unchained."

Dugan, Bill
US.20180702.034 · Persona

Bill Dugan was an American fashion designer. He co-founded his design firm W.S. Dugan, Inc. in 1988 with his partner Nancy North. He was previously the executive design assistant to Halston Enterprises in New York City from 1972 to 1984 for designer Halston.

Berenson, Marisa, 1947-
US.20180702.114 · Persona · 1947-

Marisa Berenson is a fashion model and actress. She was born on February 15, 1947 in New York City, New York, USA. She is the granddaughter of fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli. It was Diana Vreeland who pressured Berenson, then 16, to model. By the late 1960s, Berenson became one of the most sought-after models in the business, regularly appearing on the cover of Vogue. Her first film was "Death in Venice," directed by her then-boyfriend Helmut Berger's lover Luchino Visconti. Following her performance in Visconti's film, Bob Fosse cast her in a supporting role in 1972's "Cabaret." After appearing in another high-profile films, including Stanley Kubrick's "Barry Lyndon," Berenson focused less on acting and more on her personal life. Berenson continues to act and model, but spends most of her time at her villa just outside of Marrakech, Morocco.

Alexander-Lipman, Pearl
US.20180702.001 · Persona · unknown

Pearl Alexander Lipman (née Pearl Levy) was the co-owner and designer for the trend forecasting subscription services André Studios and Creator Studios. At the age of twelve, she sold her first designs to children’s wear manufacturer Joseph Love. At seventeen, she started her own business before studying fashion and design at Cooper Union and the Traphagan School. Levy was employed as a designer by coat manufacturer Rubin Endler, Inc. before striking out on her own. In 1930, Levy married Albert Louis “A. L.” Alexander, a police reporter-turned-radio announcer. After her marriage, Levy became known, both personally and professionally, as Pearl Levy Alexander, Pearl L. Alexander and Pearl Alexander. She eventually married a second time, and by the early 1960s was going by Mrs. Pearl Lipman.

Schwartzbach, Leonard
US.20180711.055 · Persona · Unknown

Leonard Schwartzbach was the business partner of Pearl Levy, and together they founded André Studios, a sketch (or croquis) subscription service for garment industry professionals, located at 570 Seventh Avenue in New York City.

Feldman, Marvin
US.20180719.005 · Persona · 1993 November 26 (date of death)

Mr. Feldman headed the College from 1971 until his retirement in 1992 and was the longest-serving president of the school. During his tenure, the College's enrollment rose to 12,000 from 5,000, the selection of courses increased greatly, and the number of buildings went from two to eight. Under his direction, the College, which is affiliated with the State University of New York system, began awarding bachelor's and master's degrees, as well as the associate's degree. F.I.T. also set up the Advanced Apparel Manufacturing Technology Demonstration Facility, which includes a large collection of computer-driven equipment, and, in 1983, a Small Business Center that provides services and support for entrepreneurs. Early in his career, Mr. Feldman was a secondary school educator and administrator in California, and from 1964 to 1969 he was an officer of the Ford Foundation's Division of International Education and Research. He also served in a variety of capacities in Washington in the Office of Education and the Office of Economic Opportunity.

James, Charles, 1906-1978
US.20200328.018 · Persona · 1906-1978

Charles James (b Surrey, July 18, 1906; d New York, Sept 23, 1978) American fashion designer of English birth. James was renowned for his unique, sculptural approach to high fashion. He was born into a traditional upper-class family in 1906 and at 19, he started his first fashion venture with a millinery shop under the name Charles Boucheron. Although supported by friends and family, the shop was unsuccessful and in 1928 James moved to New York and started designing dresses for private clients. This business also did not last and a year later he relocated to London under the name E. Haweis James, though most people already knew him as ‘Charlie’. In an early instance of what was to become a pattern in his career, he soon went bankrupt.

After a brief stint in Paris, James returned to the States in 1939 and opened a shop on 57th Street under his own name. He soon found a financial partner in Mrs Thomas Jenkins Lewis, better known as Elizabeth Arden (1878–1966). In 1944 he showed a collection at her salon that consisted mostly of afternoon dresses made of silk crêpe and satin, and emphasized his particular skills at drapery. Although relevant, the collection did not cement his reputation; it would be several more years until a Charles James design would receive its due recognition.

James and Arden ended their relationship in 1945 due to his excessive expenditure and his accusation that she stole his designs. With the financial support of a family friend, James opened yet another salon. It was here that his company began to grow and prosper, and also here that he eventually created his masterworks: evening gowns that featured extraordinary arrangements of draped silk satin and kimono-inspired jackets and coats.

In 1947, James went to Paris to show his latest collection of day and evening ensembles. Many of Paris’s top couturiers came out in support of him, including Jacques Fath, Elsa Schiaparelli and Christian Dior. Although he was just beginning to receive international acclaim, James had already been planning his own accolades. With the conceit that his designs would be museum-worthy, James kept a detailed record of his work, including all the muslins and paper patterns from which future fashion students could study.

At the peak of his career in 1950, James received the first of his two Coty Awards. Even though James at this point was one of the most expensive couturiers, he was still unable to turn a profit because he could only produce about 100 designs a year. To gain revenue, James embarked on licensing deals with retailers Ohrbachs and Samuel Winston. Though initially successful, these deals eventually fell through due do his poor business practices and unwillingness to compromise on quality. By 1958, James had lost all of his business ventures.

In the following decade, James continued to create designs only for private clients. He spent the later years of his career at his residence in the Chelsea Hotel where he held informal classes on the art of dressmaking, and where he died in 1978.

Charles James has often been called a ‘designer’s designer’, but it is difficult to study the significance of his designs as a part of fashion history because they are not a part of any historical context. They were not of their own time or anytime before and after. A James gown, with its corseting and distortion of the body, could belong to the 19th century (see fig.), but on the other hand, his designs could also be worn well into the 1950s, they are neither dated nor contemporary.

The significance in James’s work may not lie in the designs themselves but rather his approach. As part of his research, he spent three years and $20,000 studying and developing the perfect sleeve, only to lengthen it by one inch. He may be the only designer whose biography includes references to costs for research and development. Because of his exhaustive approach to design, he often referred to each of his gowns as a ‘thesis’, representing a solution to a problem. James also felt that his designs were worthy of being studied in themselves, and he had his ‘Abstract’ gown reviewed by an engineer as proof of his genius. The dress comprises 30 pattern pieces and multiple layers of material. In addition, James also had dress forms made to the exact measurements of his clients, but if he did not feel that a client had the perfect figure, he would simply change the form without thought as to whether or not the dress would fit. Ultimately, a James design stands apart because he was able to realize for the body what others could only idealize.

Donahue, Phil
US.20190520.003 · Persona · 1935-

Phil Donahue (1935 - ) is an american talk show host. "The Phil Donahue Show," debuted in 1965. The show is credited with introducing a new style of daytime talk programs, having introduced audience participation and discussions of controversial topics.

Kirke, Betty, 1924-
US.20180808.001 · Persona · 1924-2016

Betty Kirke was born in Milan, MI in 1924. She attended the School of the Art Institute in Chicago and majored in fashion design. She completed her degree at SUNY, earning liberal arts credits at various colleges and universities.
Kirke worked as a designer of custom-made clothing in California starting in 1949. In 1952, she moved to New York and founded B.L. Griffith Designs, Inc., which manufactured ready-to-wear fashions. She met and married musician and actor Walter Kirke in 1955. In 1972, she closed B.L. Griffith Designs, Inc.
The following year, Kirke started to work as a restorer at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. During this period, Kirke began to learn about and study the designs of Madeleine Vionnet. Kirke became an expert on Madeleine Vionnet, and authored multiple books and articles on her work.
In 1979, Kirke accepted the position of Senior Conservator of the costume and textile collection at The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology. Kirke also taught in F.I.T.’s graduate program for museum studies from 1985 until 1991.
After her retirement in 1991, Kirke was awarded the 1999 Millia Davenport Publication Award from the Costume Society of America, which recognizes excellence in scholarship in the study of costume.

Lauren, David
US.20180914-003 · Persona · 1971 October 11-

David Lauren is the son of Ricky Anne (née Loew-Beer) and fashion designer and executive Ralph Lauren. He is currently the Executive Vice President, Global Advertising, Marketing and Communications at Ralph Lauren Corporation.

Marcos, Imelda Romualdez, 1929-
US.20180921.002 · Persona · 1929-

Imelda Romualdez Marcos was the first lady of the Philippines from 1965-1986. She was also appointed as governor of Metropolitan Manila from 1975 to 1986 and minister of human settlements and ecology from 1979 to 1986.