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Cosmair started life as a wholesale distributor of L'Oreal hair-care products to American beauty salons. It was founded in 1953 as a joint venture by L'Oreal and Jacques Correze. Cosmair, Inc. manufactures and markets a wide range of cosmetics, hair preparations, and perfumes as the sole United States licensee of France's cosmetic mogul, L'Oréal S.A. It has grown to become a power in the beauty products industry through marketing expertise, research and development, and a vast distribution network. The company's products are widely accepted and can be found in beauty salons, department stores, specialty stores, drug stores, and mass merchandising outlets across the United States.

Chanel Parfums is the perfume arm of Chanel, the French clothing brand founded in 1910 by Coco Chanel. It began in 1921 when Chanel launched her first perfume, Chanel N°5.

Avon Products, Inc. manufactures and markets cosmetics and beauty-related products. Its product categories are Beauty, Fashion, and Home. The Beauty category consists of color cosmetics, fragrances, skincare, and personal care. The Fashion category consists of fashion jewelry, watches, apparel, footwear, accessories and children’s products. The Home category consists of gift and decorative products, housewares, entertainment and leisure products, and nutritional products. The company operates through five geographical segments: Latin America; North America; Central & Eastern Europe; Western Europe, Middle East & Africa, and Asia Pacific. Avon Products was founded by David H. McConnell in 1886 and is headquartered in New York, NY.“

Willi Wear was a streetwear label created in 1976 by designer Willi Smith. Willi Smith died in 1987 and the company closed its doors in 1990.

Since launching his namesake brand in 1985, Tommy Hilfiger has become globally renowned as the pioneer of classic American cool style. Inspired by iconic pop culture and Americana heritage, the designer and his brand are driven by an ever-optimistic vision to break conventions and celebrate individuality. Today, under Hilfiger’s guidance, vision and leadership as Principal Designer, TOMMY HILFIGER is one of the world’s most recognized lifestyle brands that shares its inclusive and youthful spirit with consumers worldwide.

Prada was founded in Milan in 1913 by Mario Prada as a luxury leather-goods firm. Miuccia Prada took charge of her grandfather's company in 1978. Her first big success was a black nylon backpack with a triangular silver label. Soon her shoe and handbag designs became the focus of a veritable cult of fashionable consumers in Europe, America, and Japan. Miuccia Prada and her husband and business partner, Patrizio Bertelli, maintain close control over the company. They added a ready-to-wear line in 1989 and inaugurated the younger, slightly less expensive Miu Miu line in 1992, followed by Prada Sport, whose iconic red line is almost as recognized in certain circles as Nike's swoosh symbol. A string of shops and boutiques in Paris, New York, and San Francisco, designed in collaboration with the architect Rem Koolhaas, became instantly famous. Prada also engaged in a series of complex ownership maneuvers in the late 1990s, buying and selling stakes in Gucci, Fendi, and other companies and forming a partnership with Azzedine Alaïa in 2000.

Perry Ellis International, Inc. is a leading designer, distributor and licensor of a broad line of high quality men's and women's apparel, accessories and fragrances. The Company's collection of dress and casual shirts, golf sportswear, sweaters, dress pants, casual pants and shorts, jeans wear, active wear, dresses and men's and women's swimwear is available through all major levels of retail distribution. The Company, through its wholly owned subsidiaries, owns a portfolio of nationally and internationally recognized brands, including: Perry Ellis®, An Original Penguin® by Munsingwear®, Laundry by Shelli Segal®, Rafaella®, Cubavera®, Ben Hogan®, Savane®, Grand Slam®, John Henry®, Manhattan®, Axist® and Farah®. The Company enhances its roster of brands by licensing trademarks from third parties, including: Nike® for swimwear, and Callaway®, PGA TOUR® and Jack Nicklaus® for golf apparel.

Nautica is a leading global lifestyle brand for men, women, and children, which includes home bedding collections.
As a nautical-influenced classic American sportswear brand, we inspire and enable people to experience the joy of water. Today, Nautica is one of the most recognized American brands throughout the world, with over 35 categories available in more than 65 countries with 76 Nautica stores and 291 International stores, and over 1,400 Nautica branded shop in shops worldwide.

David Chu was born in Taiwan and immigrated to the United States at the age of thirteen. He graduated from the Fashion Institute of Technology with a degree in fashion design. In 1983 he founded Nautica.

With over 65 years of design excellence, Laura Ashley is one of the world's best-loved home and lifestyle brands. Its journey can be traced back to 1953 when Laura and Bernard Ashley began hand-printing fabric at their kitchen table in their tiny flat in Pimlico after being inspired by a Women's Institute exhibition at the V&A museum. Founded on a rich design heritage and on traditional values of quality and originality, the Laura Ashley brand has been nurtured to become synonymous with beauty and design. Our style is constantly evolving to remain distinctive and inspirational, evoking the alluring beauty of the British countryside and a timeless mood of peace and serenity.

London Fog is an American manufacturer of coats and other apparel. The company was founded in 1923 as the Londontown clothing company by Israel Myers. Products manufactured by London Fog include trench coats, raincoats, jackets, parkas. Accessories include handbags and umbrellas.

Charles of the Ritz is an American cosmetic and perfumery brand.
The story of the brand started when the hairdresser Charles Jundt bought the Manhattan beauty salon of the New York City Ritz Hotel in 1916. In 1926, he began producing make-up and a year later he added fragrances to their product list. The company joined with Lanvin to form Lanvin- Charles of the Ritz in 1964. In 1971, the company was sold to Squibb and Squib sell of Lanvin in 1978 and renamed the brand Charles of the Ritz Group, Ltd. In 1987, Yves Saint Laurent bought Charles of the Ritz fragrance license and the remaining brand was sold to Revlon. In 2002 the brand was discontinued and now many of their fragrances are sold by the name of Revlon.

John Kobal was very keen to find a way in which he could see his own enthusiasm for photography continued after his death. In 1990 he formed The John Kobal Foundation as a charity to which he donated the photographic negatives and fine art photographs that he had collected over the years. These provide a source of income that is used by the foundation to encourage interest in and help advance the general public's appreciation and awareness of photography and particularly the area which most interested John - the art of portrait photography.

Since John's death in October 1991, the foundation first pursued this aim through the John Kobal Photographic Portrait Award, an annual award for the best portrait photograph in association with the National Portrait Gallery. It ran for ten years from 1993-2002 and was regarded as the most prestigious award devoted to portrait photography in the UK, drawing well over 200,000 people to the National Portrait Gallery every year.

In recent years, the foundation sponsored, amongst other projects, the John Kobal Book Award in association with the Royal Photographic Society and it continues to encourage emerging photographers through the grant of John Kobal New Work Awards to help towards the costs of creating or exhibiting new work.

GUESS was established in 1981 by the Marciano brothers, who left the south of France in pursuit of the American dream. Inspired by a European influence, the Marcianos redefined denim. One of their initial designs was a stonewashed, slim-fitting jean, the 3-zip Marilyn. Bloomingdale's was the first department store to welcome the brand by ordering two dozen pairs of jeans. They disappeared from the shelves in just hours. This was the beginning of a long success story.

GUESS quickly became a symbol of a young, sexy and adventurous lifestyle. Throughout the decades GUESS invited people to dream with its iconic and timeless advertising campaigns that turned unknown faces into famous models.

Today GUESS is a truly global lifestyle brand with a full range of denim, apparel and accessories offered in over 100 countries around the world.

Founded by Herbert Gallen in 1949, Ellen Tracy is a clothing manufacturer selling to the international market. The company has three divisions, the Linda Allard for Ellen Tracy signature collection of career wear, the Ellen Tracy Dresses and Company by Ellen Tracy.

Harve Benard Ltd was founded in 1967. The Company manufactures women's blouses and shirts.

When Frederick Mellinger returned from WWII in 1946, he brought with him the idea of selling a sensuous and sophisticated European style of lingerie to American women.

With only a limited success in New York, Mellinger moved to Hollywood a year later and renamed his company "Frederick's of Hollywood". His sexy lingerie was an instant smash with the Hollywood's film stars, complementing their glamorous lifestyle and image of the time.

Frederick's of Hollywood launched a constant stream of new and pioneering products, from the first padded bra in 1947 to the "Rising Star," the world's first push-up bra 1948.

During the fifties, Mellinger had the nous to market his lingerie in both men's and women's magazines, a strategy which proved very successful.

Many of Mellinger's achievements were owed to his understanding of women, and the fact that lingerie could make women feel beautiful. This, together with the association he had made with the glamorous Hollywood movies of the time, led fashion-conscious women to seek out his pointed, cone-stitched bras, sold under brand names such as Missiles, in their droves.

Frederick's of Hollywood had become a trendsetter. In the sixties, the "Cadillac" bra was launched, and soon became the company's bestseller. Other innovations included the front-hook bra, bras with shoulder pads, padded girdles, and body shapers.

By the seventies, when women were demonstrating and 'burning their bras' outside Frederick's of Hollywood's store, he had enough media sense to proclaim in public that the "law of gravity will win out." It was an incredible publicity coup, and sales of his bras soared across the continent.

It was Frederick's who introduced the thong to American women in 1981. However, a little later, Mellinger had seen the risk in Frederick's of Hollywood associating itself too unashamedly with explicitly sexual lingerie. Conventional American women wanted good quality lingerie, which was soft and sensual, but certainly not seedy; Nevertheless the thong still became one of fastest selling items around the world, despite this caution.

Mellinger always had an aptitude for picking up and coming celebrities to work with as models. Pamela Anderson Lee for example, appeared in his lingerie catalogues and later landed a role in Baywatch.

In 1989, Frederick has opened the world's first Lingerie Museum to huge success.

By the nineties, Frederick's was extremely successful, it continued with its lingerie innovations introducing the Water Bra and the Hollywood Kiss with its "wishbone" construction. Frederick's had also expanded its range to include dresses, sportswear, swimwear, hosiery, and accessories to name but a few.

Frederick Mellinger retired in 1984, and died in 1990, but the company was positioned to provide the lingerie market with original and innovative lingerie items and continue to satisfy women's unchanging desire for sensual lingerie.

As one of the world’s leading luxury womenswear brands, ESCADA stands for modern elegance, cool glamour, and sensual femininity. The brand, founded in 1978 by Margaretha and Wolfgang Ley, provides a distinct sense of refined quality, workmanship, and excellent fit and is characterized by color, print, and the love for detail.

Under the two product lines ESCADA and ESCADA SPORT the brand offers its customers a lifestyle concept for dressing, filled with everything from must-have daywear for business and leisure to glamorous evening wear. Apart from ready-to-wear, shoes and bags, the product range offers ESCADA fragrances, eyewear, watches and jewelry.

The ESCADA Group operates in 24 countries throughout North America, Europe, and Asia. With around 1,100 points of sale, ESCADA is present in 80 countries worldwide.

When Edgar and Theresa Hyman founded Echo Scarfs in the early 1920s, they set up shop in the heart of New York City, capturing its vibrancy in gorgeous colors, patterns and textures.

Today, that rich heritage of timeless quality, craftsmanship and integrity lives on in every new line of fashion accessories, bags, beachwear and home design. Still located within a block of the original showroom, Echo continues to draw inspiration from the vitality and diversity of the city. All the while, holding to the idea that a single accessory can possess the power to transform an outfit or a room, a mood or a perspective.

Eagle Clothes was a men's haberdasher.

A former draper’s apprentice, Thomas Burberry opened his first shop in Basingstoke in 1856 at only 21 years old. Focussing on developing outdoor attire, by 1870 the business was well established.

Introducing the fabric gabardine, a hardwearing, water resistant, breathable fabric in 1888, Burberry took out a patent for improved materials and was creating waterproof garments by the turn of the century. In 1891 Burberry expanded, opening a shop in London.

In 1901 the Equestrian Knight Logo was developed and added to the clothes designed for the new leisured classes, sportswear and raincoat. In 1911 Burberry dressed Roald Amundsen, the first man to reach the South Pole, and Ernest Shackleton who led an expedition to cross Antartica.

In 1914 the War Office commissioned Burberry to adapt the officer’s coat to better suit the war conditions which resulted in the trench coat. After the war the style of the trench coat became popular, and in 1924 the famous Burberry check was designed and used as a lining for the trench.

In 1955 Burberry was taken over by Great Universal stores. The following decade the Burberry check print became hugely popular. During the seventies the brand became a casual cult style with the British, leading to the 1990’s popularisation with the football and ‘chav’ social groups.

In 1997 under influence of Rose Marie Bravo, newly appointed worldwide chief executive of Burberry, a restyle of Burberrys image started with help from a Mario Testino advertising campaign and the flagship store in London being beautifully revamped. The following February Roberto Menichette was appointed as creative director until Christopher Bailey took his place in 2001

The brand sexed up its image during the last decade with advertising campaigns using iconic models and faces including Kate Moss, Lily Donaldson, George Craig, Agyness Deyn, Emma Watson and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley.

BOBBIE BROOKS, INC., a leader in the production of women's apparel, was established by MAURICE SALTZMAN and Max Reiter as Ritmore Sportswear, Inc. in a loft in the Bradley Bldg. on W. 6th St. in 1939. Beginning with a $3,000 investment, they built the company into a multi-million dollar operation within the next 15 years. In 1953 Saltzman bought out Reiter's share in the company for $1 million and the firm became Bobbie Brooks, Inc. With offices at 3830 Kelley Ave. and a plant at 2230 Superior Ave., Bobbie Brooks produced and sold stylish clothes for teenage and junior-miss girls, coordinating the styling, colors, and fabrics. Eventually, the company expanded its line to include apparel for women 25-44, and added production divisions in other cities during the 1960s.

However, Bobbie Brooks encountered serious financial difficulties in the early 1980s and filed for bankruptcy under Chapter 11 in Jan. 1982 in order to reorganize. After the company emerged from bankruptcy, Pubco Corp., a holding company with printing and real estate operations, became a major shareholder in Bobbie Brooks; Pubco's Robert Kanner took over as president in 1985. Though most of the company's production was now carried on in the South, its headquarters remained on Kelley Ave. in Cleveland. In 1986, Bobbie Brooks announced that it would stop making its junior and misses lines, in order to focus on clothing for women. The following year, the company earned $4.3 million on sales of $127.7 million, and founder Maurice Saltzman resigned as company chairman. By 1988 Pubco and Bobbie Brooks were interlocking companies, and in 1992 Pubco acquired majority control of the firm. After acquiring Buckeye Business Products in 1994, Bobbie Brooks continued to diversify. By 2003, the company had interests in retail and commercial printing, and continued to supply women's apparel to department, specialty, and national chain stores.

For award-winning fashion designer Adrienne Vittadini, the blend of Hungarian heritage, American upbringing and Italian sensibility helped propel her to the forefront of international design and made the name Adrienne Vittadini into a global brand.

During her junior year studying fine arts at Philadelphia’s Moore College of Art, Mrs. Vittadini won a fellowship to study with designers Louis Féraud in Paris and Emilio Pucci in Florence. She then pursued a fashion career in New York and Italy as a freelance designer before returning to New York in the early 1970s to design full-time. In 1979, she started her own business, Adrienne Vittadini Inc, with her husband and partner, Gianluigi Vittadini.

For over three decades, Mrs. Vittadini communicated her sophisticated fashion esthetic by combining casually elegant career dressing with smart, sporty weekend wear. Her designs seamlessly transitioned women from home to office to leisure time. Wonderfully textured knits, novelty pieces, refined basics and stylish outerwear became the Vittadini signature while international licenses for accessories, fragrances and home décor further enhanced her worldwide reputation.

Mrs. Vittadini has received countless prestigious fashion awards including the coveted Coty American Fashion Critics Award in 1984; the Dallas Designer Sportswear Award in 1985; the Albert Einstein Spirit of Achievement Award for Design and Business in 1987; the Fashion Group International Award for Women Who Have Influenced Fashion in 1990; the Metropolitan Home: The Design 100 Award in 1992; The Art of Achievement Award and the Top 50 Women Business Owners in 1993; the Cancer Care Fashion Leadership Award in 1996 and the Moore College of Art Visionary Woman Award in 2003. She was also elected to the International Best Dressed Hall of Fame.

Today Mrs. Vittadini remains passionate about art, architecture and design. She and her husband concentrate their efforts today on developing luxury residential properties through their new business venture, AGV Design & Development LLC. They are currently developing properties in Florida as well as condominiums in the Italian Alps. As a design consultant, she lent her expertise on Le Grand Cottages at Ambergris Cay Sporting Club in Turks and Caicos, and recently led the architectural design committee for The Concession Golf Club and Residences, a premier golf and country-club community in Sarasota, Florida under the aegis of Jack Nicklaus.

Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers Union (ACTWU), former union of garment and apparel workers in the United States and Canada. It was formed in 1976 by the merger of the Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America (ACWA), a large union representing workers in the men’s clothing industry, with the Textile Workers Union of America, a smaller union founded in 1939. The ACWA was originally formed when militant elements within the United Garment Workers, a relatively conservative union, broke away in 1914 to form their own union under the leadership of Sidney Hillman (q.v.). He became president of the new union and held that office until his death in 1946. Under Hillman’s leadership the ACWA became the most important and successful of the clothing unions. It secured great improvements and benefits for its members, including cooperative housing, banks, and insurance programs. In 1933 the ACWA was admitted into the American Federation of Labor, but it withdrew to become a founding member of the Congress of Industrial Organizations (CIO) in 1935.

The merger of the ACWA with the Textile Workers Union of America in 1976 produced a new union, the ACTWU, which had a membership of about 500,000. Over the next two decades the ACTWU’s membership shrank along with employment in the American apparel industry, and in 1995 the ACTWU merged with the International Ladies’ Garment Workers’ Union to form the Union of Needletrades, Industrial and Textile Employees (UNITE), with a total membership of about 350,000.

The ILGWU was formed on June 3, 1900, by eleven delegates representing local unions from the major garment centers in New York City, Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Newark. These local unions' memberships numbered about two thousand workers and were comprised primarily of Jewish immigrants, many of them socialist, who had recently arrived in the United States from Eastern Europe. Many had been active trade unionists before coming to America, and in some instances, had participated in or organized unions upon arrival.

Seven local unions were represented at the International's founding meeting, and their delegates agreed that the efforts to improve working conditions within their cities would benefit from a national organization of workers in the ladies' garment trade. They agreed to name the new organization the International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union, and that it would affiliate with the American Federation of Labor. At the founding meeting, Herman Grossman was elected the first president of the ILGWU, and Bernard Braff was elected the first secretary-treasurer.

The ILGWU chartered only four of the seven local unions at the founding meeting - the Cloak Makers' Union of New York Local No. 1, the Cloak Makers' Protective Union of Philadelphia Local No. 2, the United Cloak Pressers of Philadelphia Local No. 3, and the Cloak Makers' Union of Baltimore, Local No. 4. Soon after, local unions in Boston, Chicago, Cleveland, Detroit, Kalamazoo (Michigan), and San Francisco were organized. According to Louis Levine, "The life of the locals during these early years was a succession of shop strikes, of propaganda and shop meetings, of injunctions fought (the most important of which was that against the cloakmakers' local of Racine, Wisconsin). The work of the International consists chiefly in trying to get the locals to join it, in smoothing out differences between locals in the same city, in helping to organize district councils and joint boards, in settling jurisdictional disputes, in enforcing boycotts and in agitating for its label. In the 1990s, the ILGWU merged with the Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers Union to form the new Union of Needletrades, Industrial and Textile Employees (UNITE), now UNITE HERE.

The Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America (ACWA) was founded in 1914 in revolt against the established men's clothing workers union. It went on to become one of the most important and powerful industrial unions in American history. The ACWA arose out of a need among workers in the men's clothing trade for an organization that would represent every worker in the industry, not just the minority of skilled craftsmen, whose numbers were decreasing as clothing production became increasingly segmented and de-skilled in the late nineteenth century.

The first successful union of men's clothing workers was the United Garment Workers (UGW), founded in 1891 by immigrant workers who chose native-born craftsmen to head the union. Within a couple of decades, this effort at acceptability backfired as the UGW's leadership became increasingly distant from the union's immigrant majority. During two of the most significant clothing workers' strikes—in New York City during 1910 and Chicago in 1911—the UGW leaders refused to support the striking workers.

The tension between the native-born overalls makers who dominated the UGW leadership and the foreign-born majority reached its height at the 1914 national convention in Nashville, Tennessee. The urban immigrant delegates who made it there were denied seating on trumped-up charges of unpaid dues. So those delegates bolted the convention and at a nearby hotel convened themselves as the "true" United Garment Workers. After the new organization was forced to surrender its claim to the UGW name by court order, the new union adopted the name Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America at a subsequent convention. Sidney Hillman, a Chicago clothing worker, became the ACWA's first president. Although denied recognition by the American Federation of Labor (AFL), its numbers quickly swelled to 177,000 clothing workers by 1920.

During World War I, the ACWA maintained and even improved wages, hours, and working conditions. By 1917, it had established the forty-eight hour week in the nation's two biggest centers of clothing manufacturing—New York City and Chicago. During the 1920s, however, the union had to struggle to stay alive in the face of depression and red scare without and organized crime infiltration and racketeering within. During the Great Depression of the 1930s the ACWA was finally admitted into the AFL, but because of continuing differences within the federation over whether to organize by industry or craft, the ACWA joined the new Committee for Industrial Organization (CIO) (later the Congress of Industrial Organizations) as a charter member in 1935. The ACWA also shored up its political respectability when Hillman, as president of the ACWA, served on the advisory board of the National Recovery Administration (NRA) during its brief existence from 1933 to 1935. As the ACWA grew in numbers between the 1920s and the 1950s, it also expanded its scope, pioneering social welfare programs for its members that included health insurance, a health center, banks, and even a housing cooperative. As a result of plant closings and declining memberships, in 1976 the ACWA merged with the Textile Workers Union of America (TWUA) to form the Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers Union (ACTWU). Then, in 1995, ACTWU merged with the International Ladies Garment Workers Union (ILGWU) to form the Union of Needletrades, Industrial, and Textile Employees (UNITE!).

The Marketing Files were among the resource collections available in the library's former Vertical Files unit. The Vertical Files unit was located in the library’s former Reference Room, with a service desk near the Reference Desk. The Vertical Files footprint was largely composed of dozens of filing cabinets filled with research materials that were gathered, processed, and organized by the staff over decades. These unique resource collections included Forecasting services, Designer Files, Picture Files, Fashion Files, Costume Files, and Marketing Files. This unit was closed in January, 1996, and these files were reassigned to other units within the library. The Marketing Files were the last collection from Vertical Files to be assigned a permanent home when they came to Special Collections and College Archives in 2016.

R.J. Wagner was born 1930 in Detroit, the son of a steel executive. His family moved to Los Angeles when he was seven. Always wanting to be an actor, he held a variety of jobs (including one as a golf caddy for Clark Gable) while pursuing his goal, but it was while dining with his parents at a restaurant in Beverly Hills that he was "discovered" by a talent scout. After making his uncredited screen debut in The Happy Years (1950), Wagner was signed by 20th Century Fox, which carefully built him up toward stardom. He played romantic leads with ease, but it was not until he essayed the two-scene role of a shell-shocked war veteran in With a Song in My Heart (1952) that studio executives recognized his potential as a dramatic actor. He went on to play the title roles in Prince Valiant (1954) and The True Story of Jesse James (1957), and portrayed a cold-blooded murderer in A Kiss Before Dying (1956). In the mid-'60s, however, his film career skidded to a stop after The Pink Panther (1963). Several years of unemployment followed before Wagner made a respectable transition to television as star of the lighthearted espionage series It Takes a Thief (1968). He also starred on the police series Switch (1975), but Wagner's greatest success was opposite Stefanie Powers on the internationally popular Hart to Hart (1979), which ran from 1979 through 1984 and has since been sporadically revived in TV-movie form (another series, Lime Street (1985), was quickly canceled due to the tragic death of Wagner's young co-star, Samantha Smith). Considered one of Hollywood's nicest citizens, Robert Wagner has continued to successfully pursue a leading man career; he has also launched a latter-day stage career, touring with Stefanie Powers in the readers' theater presentation "Love Letters". He found success playing Number Two, a henchman to Dr. Evil in Austin Powers: International Man of Mystery (1997) and its sequels, and in 2007, he began playing Teddy Leopold, a recurring role on the CBS sitcom Two and a Half Men (2003).

The Needle's Eye is a 1972 novel by British novelist Margaret Drabble.

The New York Times, morning daily newspaper published in New York City, long the newspaper of record in the United States and one of the world’s great newspapers. Its strength is in its editorial excellence; it has never been the largest newspaper in terms of circulation.

The Times was established in 1851 as a penny paper that would avoid sensationalism and report the news in a restrained and objective fashion. It enjoyed early success as its editors set a pattern for the future by appealing to a cultured, intellectual readership instead of a mass audience. But its high moral tone was no asset in the heated competition of other papers for readers in New York City. Despite price increases, the Times was losing $1,000 a week when Adolph Simon Ochs bought it in 1896.

Ochs built the Times into an internationally respected daily. Aided by an editor he hired away from the New York Sun, Carr Van Anda, Ochs placed greater stress than ever on full reporting of the news of the day, maintained and emphasized existing good coverage of international news, eliminated fiction from the paper, added a Sunday magazine section, and reduced the paper’s newsstand price back to a penny. The paper’s imaginative and risky exploitation of all available resources to report every aspect of the sinking of the Titanic in April 1912 greatly enhanced its prestige. In its coverage of two world wars the Times continued to enhance its reputation for excellence in world news.

In 1971 the Times became the centre of controversy when it published a series of reports based on the “Pentagon Papers,” a secret government study of U.S. involvement in the Vietnam War that had been covertly given to the Times by government officials. The U.S. Supreme Court found that the publication was protected by the freedom-of-the-press clause in the First Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. The publication of the “Pentagon Papers” brought the Times a Pulitzer Prize in 1972, and by the early 21st century the paper had won more than 120 Pulitzers (including citations), considerably more than any other news organization. Later in the 1970s the paper, under Adolph Ochs’s grandson, Arthur Ochs Sulzberger, introduced sweeping changes in the organization of the newspaper and its staff and brought out a national edition transmitted by satellite to regional printing plants.

The Times continued to utilize technology to expand its circulation, launching an online edition in 1995 and employing colour photography in its print edition in 1997. The publication introduced a subscription service called TimesSelect in 2005 and charged subscribers for access to portions of its online edition, but the program was discontinued two years later, and all news, editorial columns, and much of its archival content was opened to the public. In 2006 the Times launched an electronic version, the Times Reader, which allowed subscribers to download the current print edition. The following year the publication relocated to the newly constructed New York Times Building in Manhattan. Soon thereafter it began—like many industry publications—to struggle to redefine its role in the face of free Internet content. In 2011 the Times instituted a subscription plan for its digital edition that limited free access to content.

Director of the Edward C. Blum Design Laboratory at the Fashion Institute of Technology with Robert Riley and then Richard Martin.

De Montebello served from 1977 to 2008 as the director of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

Doris Shaw was born on September 12, 1921, in Richmond, Virginia to Barnett H. Garey and Cora Wachsman Garey as one of eight children. As an adult, she worked in creative retail marketing, dating back to her first assignment after graduating from Newark School of Fine Arts in 1942. She landed her first paying job as assistant art director at Loeser's Department Store in Brooklyn when she was 21.

Shaw's talent in directing advertising, published across all media and communication channels, led her to become the first woman to head up Marketing at Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale's, and Abraham & Straus (now Macy's). She was the Editor-in-Chief at House Beautiful magazine. She also gave talks to the Marketing and Fashion community, and was interviewed and published in design magazines and blogs. Shaw passed away in March, 2019.

Theodore H. Ball was Vice President and Merchandise Manager of Accessories at Saks Fifth Avenue for 37 years until his retirement in January 1970. He passed on December 18, 1975 at age 79.

Fenton Last was a shoe line sold at Saks Fifth Avenue and designed by Izzy Lauer.

Jay H. Rossbach, Jr., son of fashion designer Sophie Gimbel, was a graduate of the Berkshire School in Sheffield, Mass., and Brown University, class of '43. He joined Saks Fifth Avenue in New York in 1946 after service as a lieutenant in the Naval Reserve, retiring in 1976 after thirty years as Senior Vice President. Rossbach died on February 15, 2014.

Designed Fenton First shoes for Saks Fifth Avenue.

B.A.T Industries plc is the holding company for a group of companies that manufacture tobacco products, including international and domestic brands of cigarettes, and provide financial and insurance services. The Group operates in over 100 countries worldwide. https://www.bloomberg.com/profile/company/1099Q:LN#xj4y7vzkg

BAT has diversified into various fields at different times in its history. Its U.S. retail division, BATUS Retail Group, acquired Gimbels, Kohl's, and Saks Fifth Avenue in the 1970s and Marshall Field's and its divisions in 1982. It purchased the United Kingdom retail chain Argos in 1979. The company sold Kohl's grocery stores to A&P in 1983. In 1986, BATUS sold the Kohl's department stores and two Marshall Field's divisions, The Crescent and Frederick & Nelson; BATUS closed Gimbels the same year, with many locations being absorbed by sister division Marshall Field's, as well as Allied Stores' Stern's and Pomeroy's divisions. In 1990, Dayton Hudson Corporation (now Target Corporation) purchased Marshall Field's, Dillard's purchased Ivey's (another Marshall Field's division), Investcorp S.A. purchased Saks Fifth Avenue, and Argos was demerged (Argos was acquired by previous parent company GUS plc in 1998). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_American_Tobacco

Ethan Minsker is an artist, filmmaker, writer, publisher, and zine creator living in the Lower East side of Manhattan, New York. His art--which he labels "brat art" or "punk art"--includes painting, sculpture, film, books and performance art. Minsker has published three books and is the creator and editor of the Psycho Moto Zine. His work spans 1990 to 2021 and has been featured in multiple film and art festivals. Graduating from the School of Visual Arts with a degree in Film and a master's degree in Media from the New School, Ethan has produced nine films. He is a founder of the Antagonist Art Movement and currently a board member of Citizens for the Arts.; both organizations aim to foster and promote emerging artists.

Melvin Jacobs started his career as an assistant in the bargain basement at Bloomingdale's. He rose through the ranks of merchants at Bloomingdale's, ultimately becoming a senior vice president and general merchandise manager of the chain during his 25 years at the store. In 1972, he was appointed president of Burdine's, a Florida-based department store chain owned by Federated Department Stores Inc. Federated later brought him into its corporate offices in Cincinnati as a vice chairman, but in 1982 he moved to join Saks Fifth Avenue as its chairman and chief executive. Just before he retired, Jacobs had joined the board of QVC Network Inc. While retired, he started a retailing and investment company called Retail Options Inc. with Kenneth Walker and the former president of the Limited Stores, Verna Gibson.

Mary Blair was an artist, animator and set designer best known for her work for Walt Disney. During the 1940s and 50s, Blair animated and led the animation teams which created Disney classics including Cinderella, Alice in Wonderland, Fantasia and Dumbo among others. She also contributed character, mural and set designs for Disney theme parks including It's a Small World. She later worked as an illustrator for Little Golden Books for children and designed stage sets for theatrical productions.

Robert Suslow was a retail executive running various retail chains including Ohrbach, Famous-Bar, BATUS Retail Group, Saks Fifth Avenue, and Calvin Klein throughout his career. Beginning at Bloomingdale's, Suslow started at the bottom and worked his way up to managerial and executive positions.

Former senior vice president and sales promotion director for Saks Fifth Avenue, William (Bill) was born and raised in Pittsburgh, PA, and started taking art classes at Carnegie Tech of Pittsburgh at a young age through high school. He moved on to attend the Art Institute in Chicago majoring in Advertising design, and the University of Chicago majoring in English. After graduating Bill held jobs in small advertising firms and moved on to be the fashion art director at Macy’s. Throughout his career, he has worked for Revlon, Channel, Maidenform, and Hertz to name a few. At one point he left the retail industry and started his own small agency that included clients such as Bloomingdale’s for a few years, finally moving on to Saks Fifth Avenue.

Helen O’Hagan was the vice president and director of public relations and special events at Saks Fifth Avenue. Part of her job duties involved staging fashion shows, organizing special SFA USA charity events: SAKS Spotlights top American Designs, and assisted with the introduction of top designers, and traveled to Europe to cover ready-to-wear and culture collections. She would make personal appearances with designers, working with small launches, and opening new stores. Retiring in 1994 she directed the opening of 47 Saks Fifth Avenue stores.

Saks Fifth Avenue executive.