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Derro, John

  • US.20190516.007
  • Persoon

During the late 1940s, John Derro was working as a costume designer on Broadway before transitioning into women's ready-to wear in the early 1950s. For the manufacturer Mainstreet he designed high-end women's rain gear before the company placed him at the helm of their Young Couture subsidiary line. In 1958, he was honored by Bloomingdale's as a top young American designer. Sometime around 1962, Derro left Mainstreet for the head design position at the 7th Avenue label David Hart. In 1963, following the retirement of Evelyn Dawson, Derro became the designer for the Suzy Perette line, which Dawson and a partner had established.

Conrad, Giorgio

  • US.20181013-002
  • Persoon
  • 1827-1889

Giorgio Conrad (1827–1889) was an Swiss-born Italian photographer active in the mid-19th century.

Castle, Irene, 1893-1969

  • US.20180702.082
  • Persoon
  • 1893-1969

Irene Castle (1893–1969) was an American ballroom dancer. Castle was born Irene Foote in New Rochelle New York and began dancing at a young age. She met her husband, Vernon Castle, in 1910, and a year later, the couple was married. The newlyweds began working as a team, dancing in both North America and Europe during the early 1910s. In Paris, the Castles debuted new American dances, such as the Turkey Trot, and became the toasts of the town. When they returned to New York in 1912, the couple were hired to dance on Broadway and in Films. Their stylized "Foxtrot" and "Castle Walk" became dance crazes in America. Irene Castle was a trendsetter and served as an inspiration for fashion designers of the period. Her influence caused skirts to rise and balloon and corsets to become less stiff. The fashion designer Lucile provided Castle with a good deal of designs. After Vernon Castle passed away in 1918, Irene continued dancing, but never reached the same level of fame as she did during the 1910s.

Burrows, Stephen, 1943-

  • US.20180702.018
  • Persoon
  • 1943-

Stephen Gerald Burrows was born on September 15, 1943 in Newark, NJ. He attended the Philadelphia Museum College of Art from 1961-1963 and then attended the Fashion Institute of Technology (F.I.T) from 1964-1966, where he graduated with a degree in fashion design. Successfully selling his garments to his friends or the "commune" as he referred to them, he co-founded "O" Boutique in 1968 on Park Avenue South.Burrows' use of color, color combinations, and fabrics was unheard of at this time. Burrows was influenced by rhythm and dance inspiring garments with a softer, slimmer silhouette that moved with the body and as a finishing touch, he originated the "Lettuce Edge", which is still in use today. In 1970, the fashion industry took notice of Burrows' innovative designs, where he was hired by Henri Bendel and given a boutique named "Stephen Burrows World". In 1973, Burrows was chosen to be a part of a collaborative fashion benefit between the United States and France at the Palace of Versailles, where Burrows and American fashion became an international sensation. Following his success, Burrows received the Coty award in 1973, 1974 and 1977. Burrows later left Bendel to open his own business on seventh avenue, marking his hiatus from the fashion industry until 2002. On February 13th, 2002 "Stephen Burrows World" reopened at Henri Bendel, reintroducing Burrows into the fashion world. In 2006, Burrows received the CFDA's Board of Directors Special Tribute after 40 years as a designer.

Christopher, Dennis

  • US.20181013-004
  • Persoon
  • 1955-

Dennis Christopher (1955 - ) is an American actor known for "Breaking Away" and "Django Unchained."

Dugan, Bill

  • US.20180702.034
  • Persoon

Bill Dugan was an American fashion designer. He co-founded his design firm W.S. Dugan, Inc. in 1988 with his partner Nancy North. He was previously the executive design assistant to Halston Enterprises in New York City from 1972 to 1984 for designer Halston.

Berenson, Marisa, 1947-

  • US.20180702.114
  • Persoon
  • 1947-

Marisa Berenson is a fashion model and actress. She was born on February 15, 1947 in New York City, New York, USA. She is the granddaughter of fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli. It was Diana Vreeland who pressured Berenson, then 16, to model. By the late 1960s, Berenson became one of the most sought-after models in the business, regularly appearing on the cover of Vogue. Her first film was "Death in Venice," directed by her then-boyfriend Helmut Berger's lover Luchino Visconti. Following her performance in Visconti's film, Bob Fosse cast her in a supporting role in 1972's "Cabaret." After appearing in another high-profile films, including Stanley Kubrick's "Barry Lyndon," Berenson focused less on acting and more on her personal life. Berenson continues to act and model, but spends most of her time at her villa just outside of Marrakech, Morocco.

Alexander-Lipman, Pearl

  • US.20180702.001
  • Persoon
  • unknown

Pearl Levy studied at Cooper Union and the Traphagan School. At the age of twelve she sold her first designs to children’s wear manufacturer Joseph Love, and at seventeen she started her own business. Prior to striking out on her own, Levy was employed as a designer by coat manufacturer Rubin Endler, Inc. In 1930, Levy married Albert Louis “A. L.” Alexander, a police reporter-turned-radio announcer. After her marriage, Levy became known, both personally and professionally, as Pearl Levy Alexander, Pearl L. Alexander, and Pearl Alexander. She eventually married a second time, and by the early 1960s was known as Mrs. Pearl Lipman.

Schwartzbach, Leonard

  • US.20180711.055
  • Persoon
  • Unknown

Leonard Schwartzbach was the business partner of Pearl Levy, and together they founded André Studios, a sketch (or croquis) subscription service for garment industry professionals, located at 570 Seventh Avenue in New York City.

Feldman, Marvin

  • US.20180719.005
  • Persoon
  • 1993 November 26 (date of death)

Mr. Feldman headed the College from 1971 until his retirement in 1992 and was the longest-serving president of the school. During his tenure, the College's enrollment rose to 12,000 from 5,000, the selection of courses increased greatly, and the number of buildings went from two to eight. Under his direction, the College, which is affiliated with the State University of New York system, began awarding bachelor's and master's degrees, as well as the associate's degree. F.I.T. also set up the Advanced Apparel Manufacturing Technology Demonstration Facility, which includes a large collection of computer-driven equipment, and, in 1983, a Small Business Center that provides services and support for entrepreneurs. Early in his career, Mr. Feldman was a secondary school educator and administrator in California, and from 1964 to 1969 he was an officer of the Ford Foundation's Division of International Education and Research. He also served in a variety of capacities in Washington in the Office of Education and the Office of Economic Opportunity.

James, Charles, 1906-1978

  • US.20200328.018
  • Persoon
  • 1906-1978

Charles James (b Surrey, July 18, 1906; d New York, Sept 23, 1978) American fashion designer of English birth. James was renowned for his unique, sculptural approach to high fashion. He was born into a traditional upper-class family in 1906 and at 19, he started his first fashion venture with a millinery shop under the name Charles Boucheron. Although supported by friends and family, the shop was unsuccessful and in 1928 James moved to New York and started designing dresses for private clients. This business also did not last and a year later he relocated to London under the name E. Haweis James, though most people already knew him as ‘Charlie’. In an early instance of what was to become a pattern in his career, he soon went bankrupt.

After a brief stint in Paris, James returned to the States in 1939 and opened a shop on 57th Street under his own name. He soon found a financial partner in Mrs Thomas Jenkins Lewis, better known as Elizabeth Arden (1878–1966). In 1944 he showed a collection at her salon that consisted mostly of afternoon dresses made of silk crêpe and satin, and emphasized his particular skills at drapery. Although relevant, the collection did not cement his reputation; it would be several more years until a Charles James design would receive its due recognition.

James and Arden ended their relationship in 1945 due to his excessive expenditure and his accusation that she stole his designs. With the financial support of a family friend, James opened yet another salon. It was here that his company began to grow and prosper, and also here that he eventually created his masterworks: evening gowns that featured extraordinary arrangements of draped silk satin and kimono-inspired jackets and coats.

In 1947, James went to Paris to show his latest collection of day and evening ensembles. Many of Paris’s top couturiers came out in support of him, including Jacques Fath, Elsa Schiaparelli and Christian Dior. Although he was just beginning to receive international acclaim, James had already been planning his own accolades. With the conceit that his designs would be museum-worthy, James kept a detailed record of his work, including all the muslins and paper patterns from which future fashion students could study.

At the peak of his career in 1950, James received the first of his two Coty Awards. Even though James at this point was one of the most expensive couturiers, he was still unable to turn a profit because he could only produce about 100 designs a year. To gain revenue, James embarked on licensing deals with retailers Ohrbachs and Samuel Winston. Though initially successful, these deals eventually fell through due do his poor business practices and unwillingness to compromise on quality. By 1958, James had lost all of his business ventures.

In the following decade, James continued to create designs only for private clients. He spent the later years of his career at his residence in the Chelsea Hotel where he held informal classes on the art of dressmaking, and where he died in 1978.

Charles James has often been called a ‘designer’s designer’, but it is difficult to study the significance of his designs as a part of fashion history because they are not a part of any historical context. They were not of their own time or anytime before and after. A James gown, with its corseting and distortion of the body, could belong to the 19th century (see fig.), but on the other hand, his designs could also be worn well into the 1950s, they are neither dated nor contemporary.

The significance in James’s work may not lie in the designs themselves but rather his approach. As part of his research, he spent three years and $20,000 studying and developing the perfect sleeve, only to lengthen it by one inch. He may be the only designer whose biography includes references to costs for research and development. Because of his exhaustive approach to design, he often referred to each of his gowns as a ‘thesis’, representing a solution to a problem. James also felt that his designs were worthy of being studied in themselves, and he had his ‘Abstract’ gown reviewed by an engineer as proof of his genius. The dress comprises 30 pattern pieces and multiple layers of material. In addition, James also had dress forms made to the exact measurements of his clients, but if he did not feel that a client had the perfect figure, he would simply change the form without thought as to whether or not the dress would fit. Ultimately, a James design stands apart because he was able to realize for the body what others could only idealize.

Donahue, Phil

  • US.20190520.003
  • Persoon
  • 1935-

Phil Donahue (1935 - ) is an american talk show host. "The Phil Donahue Show," debuted in 1965. The show is credited with introducing a new style of daytime talk programs, having introduced audience participation and discussions of controversial topics.

Kirke, Betty, 1924-

  • US.20180808.001
  • Persoon
  • 1924-2016

Betty Kirke was born in Milan, MI in 1924. She attended the School of the Art Institute in Chicago and majored in fashion design. She completed her degree at SUNY, earning liberal arts credits at various colleges and universities.
Kirke worked as a designer of custom-made clothing in California starting in 1949. In 1952, she moved to New York and founded B.L. Griffith Designs, Inc., which manufactured ready-to-wear fashions. She met and married musician and actor Walter Kirke in 1955. In 1972, she closed B.L. Griffith Designs, Inc.
The following year, Kirke started to work as a restorer at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. During this period, Kirke began to learn about and study the designs of Madeleine Vionnet. Kirke became an expert on Madeleine Vionnet, and authored multiple books and articles on her work.
In 1979, Kirke accepted the position of Senior Conservator of the costume and textile collection at The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology. Kirke also taught in F.I.T.’s graduate program for museum studies from 1985 until 1991.
After her retirement in 1991, Kirke was awarded the 1999 Millia Davenport Publication Award from the Costume Society of America, which recognizes excellence in scholarship in the study of costume.

Lauren, David

  • US.20180914-003
  • Persoon
  • 1971 October 11-

David Lauren is the son of Ricky Anne (née Loew-Beer) and fashion designer and executive Ralph Lauren. He is currently the Executive Vice President, Global Advertising, Marketing and Communications at Ralph Lauren Corporation.

Marcos, Imelda Romualdez, 1929-

  • US.20180921.002
  • Persoon
  • 1929-

Imelda Romualdez Marcos was the first lady of the Philippines from 1965-1986. She was also appointed as governor of Metropolitan Manila from 1975 to 1986 and minister of human settlements and ecology from 1979 to 1986.

Cavanagh, John, 1914-2003

  • US.20180927.003
  • Persoon
  • 1914-2003

John Cavanagh (1914-2003) was an Irish couturier who dressed members of the British Royal Family. He was a member of the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers and worked as design assistant to Pierre Balmain before opening his own fashion house in 1952.

Balenciaga, Cristobal, 1895-1972

  • US.20180927-004
  • Persoon
  • 1895-1972

Cristobal Balenciaga (1895-1972) was a Spanish Basque fashion designer. He was a leading couturier in Spain. After moving to Paris during the Spanish Civil War, Balenciaga founded the Balenciaga fashion house, becoming renowned for his innovations in silhouettes and structural design. Although the House of Balenciaga closed following his death, it was later re-opened in 1986.

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