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Zenou, Izak
US.20180711.031 · Pessoa · Unknown

Izak Zenou is a fashion illustrator who has worked for numerous brands and publications including Chanel, Celine, Henri Bendel, L’Oreal, Sephora, Rizzoli, Vogue, Elle, and Marie Claire.

Donovan, Bil
US.20180702.032 · Pessoa

Bil Donovan is an American fashion illustrator. His client list reads like a who's who in fashion: Christian Dior, Vogue, and L’Occitane are just some of the companies Donovan has worked with. In addition to his work as an illustrator, Donovan teaches at the Fashion Institute of Technology as well as The School of Visual Arts in New York City.

Derro, John
US.20190516.007 · Pessoa

During the late 1940s, John Derro was working as a costume designer on Broadway before transitioning into women's ready-to wear in the early 1950s. For the manufacturer Mainstreet he designed high-end women's rain gear before the company placed him at the helm of their Young Couture subsidiary line. In 1958, he was honored by Bloomingdale's as a top young American designer. Sometime around 1962, Derro left Mainstreet for the head design position at the 7th Avenue label David Hart. In 1963, following the retirement of Evelyn Dawson, Derro became the designer for the Suzy Perette line, which Dawson and a partner had established.

Richard, T.
US.20180711.057 · Pessoa
Conrad, Giorgio
US.20181013-002 · Pessoa · 1827-1889

Giorgio Conrad (1827–1889) was an Swiss-born Italian photographer active in the mid-19th century.

Reinecke, F.
US.20180711.059 · Pessoa
Castle, Irene, 1893-1969
US.20180702.082 · Pessoa · 1893-1969

Irene Castle (1893–1969) was an American ballroom dancer. Castle was born Irene Foote in New Rochelle New York and began dancing at a young age. She met her husband, Vernon Castle, in 1910, and a year later, the couple was married. The newlyweds began working as a team, dancing in both North America and Europe during the early 1910s. In Paris, the Castles debuted new American dances, such as the Turkey Trot, and became the toasts of the town. When they returned to New York in 1912, the couple were hired to dance on Broadway and in Films. Their stylized "Foxtrot" and "Castle Walk" became dance crazes in America. Irene Castle was a trendsetter and served as an inspiration for fashion designers of the period. Her influence caused skirts to rise and balloon and corsets to become less stiff. The fashion designer Lucile provided Castle with a good deal of designs. After Vernon Castle passed away in 1918, Irene continued dancing, but never reached the same level of fame as she did during the 1910s.

Ramos, Ramona
US.20180711.064 · Pessoa
Burrows, Stephen, 1943-
US.20180702.018 · Pessoa · 1943-

Stephen Gerald Burrows was born on September 15, 1943 in Newark, NJ. He attended the Philadelphia Museum College of Art from 1961-1963 and then attended the Fashion Institute of Technology (F.I.T) from 1964-1966, where he graduated with a degree in fashion design. Successfully selling his garments to his friends or the "commune" as he referred to them, he co-founded "O" Boutique in 1968 on Park Avenue South.Burrows' use of color, color combinations, and fabrics was unheard of at this time. Burrows was influenced by rhythm and dance inspiring garments with a softer, slimmer silhouette that moved with the body and as a finishing touch, he originated the "Lettuce Edge", which is still in use today. In 1970, the fashion industry took notice of Burrows' innovative designs, where he was hired by Henri Bendel and given a boutique named "Stephen Burrows World". In 1973, Burrows was chosen to be a part of a collaborative fashion benefit between the United States and France at the Palace of Versailles, where Burrows and American fashion became an international sensation. Following his success, Burrows received the Coty award in 1973, 1974 and 1977. Burrows later left Bendel to open his own business on seventh avenue, marking his hiatus from the fashion industry until 2002. On February 13th, 2002 "Stephen Burrows World" reopened at Henri Bendel, reintroducing Burrows into the fashion world. In 2006, Burrows received the CFDA's Board of Directors Special Tribute after 40 years as a designer.

Christopher, Dennis
US.20181013-004 · Pessoa · 1955-

Dennis Christopher (1955 - ) is an American actor known for "Breaking Away" and "Django Unchained."

Dugan, Bill
US.20180702.034 · Pessoa

Bill Dugan was an American fashion designer. He co-founded his design firm W.S. Dugan, Inc. in 1988 with his partner Nancy North. He was previously the executive design assistant to Halston Enterprises in New York City from 1972 to 1984 for designer Halston.

Berenson, Marisa, 1947-
US.20180702.114 · Pessoa · 1947-

Marisa Berenson is a fashion model and actress. She was born on February 15, 1947 in New York City, New York, USA. She is the granddaughter of fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli. It was Diana Vreeland who pressured Berenson, then 16, to model. By the late 1960s, Berenson became one of the most sought-after models in the business, regularly appearing on the cover of Vogue. Her first film was "Death in Venice," directed by her then-boyfriend Helmut Berger's lover Luchino Visconti. Following her performance in Visconti's film, Bob Fosse cast her in a supporting role in 1972's "Cabaret." After appearing in another high-profile films, including Stanley Kubrick's "Barry Lyndon," Berenson focused less on acting and more on her personal life. Berenson continues to act and model, but spends most of her time at her villa just outside of Marrakech, Morocco.

Alexander-Lipman, Pearl
US.20180702.001 · Pessoa · unknown

Pearl Alexander Lipman (née Pearl Levy) was the co-owner and designer for the trend forecasting subscription services André Studios and Creator Studios. At the age of twelve, she sold her first designs to children’s wear manufacturer Joseph Love. At seventeen, she started her own business before studying fashion and design at Cooper Union and the Traphagan School. Levy was employed as a designer by coat manufacturer Rubin Endler, Inc. before striking out on her own. In 1930, Levy married Albert Louis “A. L.” Alexander, a police reporter-turned-radio announcer. After her marriage, Levy became known, both personally and professionally, as Pearl Levy Alexander, Pearl L. Alexander and Pearl Alexander. She eventually married a second time, and by the early 1960s was going by Mrs. Pearl Lipman.

Schwartzbach, Leonard
US.20180711.055 · Pessoa · Unknown

Leonard Schwartzbach was the business partner of Pearl Levy, and together they founded André Studios, a sketch (or croquis) subscription service for garment industry professionals, located at 570 Seventh Avenue in New York City.

Feldman, Marvin
US.20180719.005 · Pessoa · 1993 November 26 (date of death)

Mr. Feldman headed the College from 1971 until his retirement in 1992 and was the longest-serving president of the school. During his tenure, the College's enrollment rose to 12,000 from 5,000, the selection of courses increased greatly, and the number of buildings went from two to eight. Under his direction, the College, which is affiliated with the State University of New York system, began awarding bachelor's and master's degrees, as well as the associate's degree. F.I.T. also set up the Advanced Apparel Manufacturing Technology Demonstration Facility, which includes a large collection of computer-driven equipment, and, in 1983, a Small Business Center that provides services and support for entrepreneurs. Early in his career, Mr. Feldman was a secondary school educator and administrator in California, and from 1964 to 1969 he was an officer of the Ford Foundation's Division of International Education and Research. He also served in a variety of capacities in Washington in the Office of Education and the Office of Economic Opportunity.

James, Charles, 1906-1978
US.20200328.018 · Pessoa · 1906-1978

Charles James (b Surrey, July 18, 1906; d New York, Sept 23, 1978) American fashion designer of English birth. James was renowned for his unique, sculptural approach to high fashion. He was born into a traditional upper-class family in 1906 and at 19, he started his first fashion venture with a millinery shop under the name Charles Boucheron. Although supported by friends and family, the shop was unsuccessful and in 1928 James moved to New York and started designing dresses for private clients. This business also did not last and a year later he relocated to London under the name E. Haweis James, though most people already knew him as ‘Charlie’. In an early instance of what was to become a pattern in his career, he soon went bankrupt.

After a brief stint in Paris, James returned to the States in 1939 and opened a shop on 57th Street under his own name. He soon found a financial partner in Mrs Thomas Jenkins Lewis, better known as Elizabeth Arden (1878–1966). In 1944 he showed a collection at her salon that consisted mostly of afternoon dresses made of silk crêpe and satin, and emphasized his particular skills at drapery. Although relevant, the collection did not cement his reputation; it would be several more years until a Charles James design would receive its due recognition.

James and Arden ended their relationship in 1945 due to his excessive expenditure and his accusation that she stole his designs. With the financial support of a family friend, James opened yet another salon. It was here that his company began to grow and prosper, and also here that he eventually created his masterworks: evening gowns that featured extraordinary arrangements of draped silk satin and kimono-inspired jackets and coats.

In 1947, James went to Paris to show his latest collection of day and evening ensembles. Many of Paris’s top couturiers came out in support of him, including Jacques Fath, Elsa Schiaparelli and Christian Dior. Although he was just beginning to receive international acclaim, James had already been planning his own accolades. With the conceit that his designs would be museum-worthy, James kept a detailed record of his work, including all the muslins and paper patterns from which future fashion students could study.

At the peak of his career in 1950, James received the first of his two Coty Awards. Even though James at this point was one of the most expensive couturiers, he was still unable to turn a profit because he could only produce about 100 designs a year. To gain revenue, James embarked on licensing deals with retailers Ohrbachs and Samuel Winston. Though initially successful, these deals eventually fell through due do his poor business practices and unwillingness to compromise on quality. By 1958, James had lost all of his business ventures.

In the following decade, James continued to create designs only for private clients. He spent the later years of his career at his residence in the Chelsea Hotel where he held informal classes on the art of dressmaking, and where he died in 1978.

Charles James has often been called a ‘designer’s designer’, but it is difficult to study the significance of his designs as a part of fashion history because they are not a part of any historical context. They were not of their own time or anytime before and after. A James gown, with its corseting and distortion of the body, could belong to the 19th century (see fig.), but on the other hand, his designs could also be worn well into the 1950s, they are neither dated nor contemporary.

The significance in James’s work may not lie in the designs themselves but rather his approach. As part of his research, he spent three years and $20,000 studying and developing the perfect sleeve, only to lengthen it by one inch. He may be the only designer whose biography includes references to costs for research and development. Because of his exhaustive approach to design, he often referred to each of his gowns as a ‘thesis’, representing a solution to a problem. James also felt that his designs were worthy of being studied in themselves, and he had his ‘Abstract’ gown reviewed by an engineer as proof of his genius. The dress comprises 30 pattern pieces and multiple layers of material. In addition, James also had dress forms made to the exact measurements of his clients, but if he did not feel that a client had the perfect figure, he would simply change the form without thought as to whether or not the dress would fit. Ultimately, a James design stands apart because he was able to realize for the body what others could only idealize.

Donahue, Phil
US.20190520.003 · Pessoa · 1935-

Phil Donahue (1935 - ) is an american talk show host. "The Phil Donahue Show," debuted in 1965. The show is credited with introducing a new style of daytime talk programs, having introduced audience participation and discussions of controversial topics.

Kirke, Betty, 1924-
US.20180808.001 · Pessoa · 1924-2016

Betty Kirke was born in Milan, MI in 1924. She attended the School of the Art Institute in Chicago and majored in fashion design. She completed her degree at SUNY, earning liberal arts credits at various colleges and universities.
Kirke worked as a designer of custom-made clothing in California starting in 1949. In 1952, she moved to New York and founded B.L. Griffith Designs, Inc., which manufactured ready-to-wear fashions. She met and married musician and actor Walter Kirke in 1955. In 1972, she closed B.L. Griffith Designs, Inc.
The following year, Kirke started to work as a restorer at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. During this period, Kirke began to learn about and study the designs of Madeleine Vionnet. Kirke became an expert on Madeleine Vionnet, and authored multiple books and articles on her work.
In 1979, Kirke accepted the position of Senior Conservator of the costume and textile collection at The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology. Kirke also taught in F.I.T.’s graduate program for museum studies from 1985 until 1991.
After her retirement in 1991, Kirke was awarded the 1999 Millia Davenport Publication Award from the Costume Society of America, which recognizes excellence in scholarship in the study of costume.

Lauren, David
US.20180914-003 · Pessoa · 1971 October 11-

David Lauren is the son of Ricky Anne (née Loew-Beer) and fashion designer and executive Ralph Lauren. He is currently the Executive Vice President, Global Advertising, Marketing and Communications at Ralph Lauren Corporation.

Marcos, Imelda Romualdez, 1929-
US.20180921.002 · Pessoa · 1929-

Imelda Romualdez Marcos was the first lady of the Philippines from 1965-1986. She was also appointed as governor of Metropolitan Manila from 1975 to 1986 and minister of human settlements and ecology from 1979 to 1986.

Cavanagh, John, 1914-2003
US.20180927.003 · Pessoa · 1914-2003

John Cavanagh (1914-2003) was an Irish couturier who dressed members of the British Royal Family. He was a member of the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers and worked as design assistant to Pierre Balmain before opening his own fashion house in 1952.

Balenciaga, Cristobal, 1895-1972
US.20180927-004 · Pessoa · 1895-1972

Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895-1972) was a Basque-born Spanish fashion designer. Established in 1917, he was a leading couturier in Spain where he designed under his label Eisa. After moving to Paris in 1937 amid the Spanish Civil War, Balenciaga founded his eponymously named couture house which was known for its "pureness of lines, the reinterpretation of Spanish tradition and the development of innovative volumes." Fellow couturier Christian Dior called Balenciaga "the master of us all," and the designer's work was held in reverence until his retirement 1968. The house of Balenciaga remained closed until its revival in 1986 under the creative direction of Michel Goma.

Griffe, Jacques
US.20180927.015 · Pessoa · 1917-1996

Jacques Griffe (1917-1996) was a French fashion designer. After beginning his career as a tailor and cutter, Griffe opened his own house in 1942. Griffe is celebrated for his use draping techniques in order to accent the female form. Griffe retired from fashion design in 1968.

Dormer, Richard
US.20180927-020 · Pessoa

Richard Dormer was a fashion photographer active during the second half of the 20th century. His photos appeared in many publications including Harper's Bazaar and Vogue.

Gremela
US.20180927-021 · Pessoa · unknown

Photographer for Harper's Bazaar.

Sprague, Jane
US.20180927-022 · Pessoa · Unknown

Jane Sprague was a model during the 1950s and regularly appeared in fashion magazines including Harper's Bazaar. She became a photographer for Harper's Bazaar.

Barentzen, Patrick de
US.20181005-007 · Pessoa

Patrick de Barentzen was an Italian fashion designer working in the mid-20th century. His couture salon opened in 1958. In 1968, de Barentzen debuted a collection inspired by the 1940s, three years before Yves Saint Laurent would do so in Paris.

Ognibene-Zendman
US.20181005-008 · Pessoa · 1965-

Founded in 1965, Ognibene Zendman is an Italian fashion house designing simple, clean and slightly masculine creations. Zendman worked under Balenciaga for five years before launching his own brand.

Valentino, 1932-
US.20181005-006 · Pessoa · 1932-

Valentino Clemente Ludovico Garavani was born northern Italy in 1932. After studying fashion in Paris, he was an apprentice in Paris at Jean Dessès. In 1962, his first couture collection was shown and he was awarded the Neiman Marcus Award for his "no-colour collection." In 2012 Valentino was awarded the Commandeur de l'ordre des Arts et des Lettres medal - one of France's highest honours.

Schön, Mila, 1916-2008
US.20181005.005 · Pessoa · 1916-2008

Mila Schön was born in Croatia and opened her atelier in 1958. Shortly after, she earned a reputation for perfectionism and impeccable tailoring. She designed uniforms for Alitalia and Iran air flight attendants and opened shops all over the world.

Scherrer, Jean-Louis
US.20181005-004 · Pessoa · Unknown

Jean-Louis Scherrer, born in Paris in 1935, worked under Christian Dior until his death in 1957 and then under Yves Saint Laurent until 1959. Scherrer opened his own couture house in 1962, producing luxurious dresses with abundant decoration inspired from historical/ethnic themes. In 1990, his label was sold to the Japanese company Seibu Saison and Hermès. By then, the house had record annual sales of $25 million, but was operating at a loss of more than $7 million. Scherrer was evicted from his own fashion house and passed away in 2013.

Rentner, Maurice, 1889-1958
20181014-020 · Pessoa · 1889-1958

Maurice Rentner was an established maker of quality suits and dresses and a founding member and first president of the Fashion Originators Guild of America. He began his career in fashion working in his father's button making factory and in 1923 formed Maurice Rentner, Inc.

Frankel, Selma
US.20200715.031 · Pessoa · 1910-1990

Selma Frankel was born on September 12, 1910 in New York City. She is the daughter of Maurice Rentner. Both she and her husband, William V. Frankel, were active philanthropists. She passed away in 1990.

Sloan, Lillian
US.20201118.026 · Pessoa · Unknown

Lillian Sloan was a fashion designer and shop owner who worked with Maurice Rentner.

Mello, Dawn
US.20181026-007 · Pessoa

Dawn Mello joined Berdorf Goodman in 1975 as vice president of fashion. She was successful in reinvigorating the conservative store and became president in 1984. She left her post in 1989 to work for the floundering Italian fashion house Gucci, though she returned to her post as president in 1994.

Goodman, Andrew
US.20181026-001 · Pessoa · 1907-1993

Andrew Goodman was the son of Bergdorf Goodman founder, Edwin Goodman. He briefly studied at the University of Michigan before embarking on an apprenticeship at the Paris couture house of Jean Patou in 1926, after which he returned to New York to join the department store's staff. During WWII, he served as a lieutenant in the US Navy and following the war returned to Bergdorf Goodman, becoming the President in 1951--and upon his father's death in 1953--Chairman/Owner until 1975. Goodman sat on multiple Boards and development committees in New York City, including the Board of Trustees of the Fashion Institute of Technology.

Andrew Goodman passed away in 1993 at the age of 86.

Hofbeck, Margaret
US.20181109-014 · Pessoa · 1941-

Bloomingdale's Vice President of Executive Recruitment and Development, Margaret Hofbeck started working at Bloomingdale's in 1972. Before Bloomingdale's, Hofbeck worked in advertising and then briefly for a brokerage firm. Hofbeck started at Bloomingdale's working in labor relations and union negotiations. Her job quickly expanded to include executive recruitment and employee training.

Stravitz, Russell
US.20181109-009 · Pessoa

Russell Stravitz joined Bloomingdale's in 1969 and had been working on and off at the company for 18 years as of 1986. For the previous 5 years, Stravitz had been reporting directly to Bloomingdale's CEO, Marvin S. Traub as the Executive VP of Bloomingdale's stores and the General Merchandising Manager of Ready-to-Wear and Fashion Accessories. Stravitz continued working at Bloomingdale's until 1980, before leaving to become the President of Rich's/ Goldsmith's Department Store.

Graham, Martha
US.20181207-012 · Pessoa · 1894 May 11 – 1991 April 1

"Martha Graham’s creativity crossed artistic boundaries and embraced every artistic genre. She collaborated with and commissioned work from the leading visual artists, musicians, and designers of her day, including sculptor Isamu Noguchi and fashion designers Halston, Donna Karan, and Calvin Klein, as well as composers Aaron Copland, Samuel Barber, William Schuman, Norman Dello Joio, and Gian Carlo Menotti.

Influencing generations of choreographers and dancers including Merce Cunningham, Paul Taylor, and Twyla Tharp, Graham forever altered the scope of dance. Classical ballet dancers Margot Fonteyn, Rudolf Nureyev, and Mikhail Baryshnikov sought her out to broaden their artistry, and artists of all genres were eager to study and work with Graham—she taught actors including Bette Davis, Kirk Douglas, Madonna, Liza Minelli, Gregory Peck, Tony Randall, Eli Wallach, Anne Jackson, and Joanne Woodward to utilize their bodies as expressive instruments.

Graham’s groundbreaking style grew from her experimentation with the elemental movements of contraction and release. By focusing on the basic activities of the human form, she enlivened the body with raw, electric emotion. The sharp, angular, and direct movements of her technique were a dramatic departure from the predominant style of the time.

With an artistic practice deeply ingrained in the rhythm of American life and the struggles of the individual, Graham brought a distinctly American sensibility to every theme she explored. “A dance reveals the spirit of the country in which it takes root. No sooner does it fail to do this than it loses its integrity and significance,” she wrote in the 1937 essay A Platform for the American Dance.

Consistently infused with social, political, psychological, and sexual themes, Graham’s choreography is timeless, connecting with audiences past and present. Works such as Revolt (1927), Immigrant: Steerage, Strike (1928), and Chronicle (1936)—created the same year she turned down Hitler’s invitation to perform at the International Arts Festival organized in conjunction with the Olympic Games in Berlin—personify Graham’s commitment to addressing challenging contemporary issues and distinguish her as a conscientious and politically powerful artist.

Martha Graham remained a strong advocate of the individual throughout her career, creating works such as Deaths and Entrances (1943), Appalachian Spring (1944), Dark Meadow (1946), and Errand into the Maze (1947) to explore human and societal complexities. The innovative choreography and visual imagery of American Document (1938) exemplified Graham’s genius. The dramatic narrative, which included the Company’s first male dancer, explored the concept of what it means to be American. Through the representation of important American cultural groups such as Native Americans, African-Americans, and Puritans and the integration of text from historical American documents, Graham was able to capture the soul of the American people.

During her long and illustrious career, Graham created 181 masterpiece dance compositions, which continue to challenge and inspire generations of performers and audiences. In 1986, she was given the Local One Centennial Award for dance by her theater colleagues, awarded only once every 100 years, and during the Bicentennial she was granted the United States’ highest civilian honor, The Medal of Freedom. In 1998, TIME Magazine named her the “Dancer of the Century.” The first dancer to perform at the White House and to act as a cultural ambassador abroad, she captured the spirit of a nation and expanded the boundaries of contemporary dance. “I have spent all my life with dance and being a dancer,” she said. “It’s permitting life to use you in a very intense way. Sometimes it is not pleasant. Sometimes it is fearful. But nevertheless it is inevitable.”"

http://www.marthagraham.org/history/

Aleu, Fernando
US.20181207-011 · Pessoa

Dr. Fernando Aleu was born in Spain in 1929. He moved from Spain to the University of Iowa for a residency as a neurologist. While working at NYU in the neurology department, he and his business partner started a fragrance company called Compar. His business was created in November, 1969 as a way to distribute the scents of his friend, the designer Paco Rabanne. Since then, the company has worked with many other brands including Carolina Herrera, Prada and Nina Ricci. In 1970, a fragrance his company produced, Calantra, was a nominated for an award by the Fragrance Foundation, and in 1976 Aleu was offered as position as president of the Fragrance Foundation. He served as president for a total of fourteen years, and also held the position of President of the Fragrance Foundation Research Fund.

Tansky, Burton, 1937-
US.20181207-002 · Pessoa · 1937-

Burton Tansky was born on November 30th, 1937 in Pittsburg, PA. After graduating from University of Pittsburg in 1961, Tansky worked as a buyer at department stores Filene's and Kauffman's before moving into an executive role at I. Magnin's and then working as president and CEO of Saks Fifth Avenue from 1980 to 1989. Tansky became the CEO and Chairman of Bergdorf Goodman in 1990, a position he still held at the time of this interview. Tansky has received a number of industry awards, including the Superstar Award from Fashion Group International in 2006, a Visionaries! Award in 2005 from the Museum of Arts and Design, the 2004 Gold Medal Award from the National Retail Federation, and, in 2002, appointment as a “Chevalier de la Legion d'Honneur” by the French government for his promotion of French-made merchandise in America. This interview was conducted by Estelle Ellis, founder of Business, Inc., a business market research firm.

Laffitte, Julio
US.20201014.020 · Pessoa
Norell, Norman, 1900-1972
US.20190316.002 · Pessoa · 1900-1972

Norman Norell was born in April 1900. He first attended Parsons but transferred to Pratt a year later. Norell entered a blouse design contest while at Pratt and won first prize. In 1922, he designed for Brooks Costumes in NYC. He moved to Paramount studios, which was then in Astoria, Queens, and created costumes for Rudolph Valentino and Gloria Swanson. Next, Norell costumed shows for the Ziegfeld Follies. His first credited designs were costumes for a show at the Cotton Club in Harlem. In 1924, he was hired by Charles Armour and designed under that label for three years. In 1927, he was hired by Hattie Carnagie to design under her brand. Carnagie would purchase roughly Parisian Couture garments a year and bring them back to study the construction and style. This is how Norell learned couture construction. In 1940, he and Carnagie got in an argument about a design for Gertrude Lawrence which ended in him getting fired. In 1941, he was hired by Anthony Trainer. Trainer gave him the option of higher pay or Norell's name on the label. Norell chose to have his name on the label. Norell learned mass production techniques at Trainer. This lead to a fusion of ready-to-wear and couture that Norell was known for. Norerell won the first COTY Award in 1943. In 1960, Anthony Trainer retired, giving Norell full control of the designs. He continued to design until 1972 when he passed away, at the age of 72.

Born April 20, 1900 in Noblesville, IN, Norman Norell was an American fashion designer known for his elegant suits and tailored silhouettes. After spending some time in military school during World War I, Norell studied illustration at Parsons School of Design and fashion design at Pratt Institute from 1920 to 1922. Born Norman Levinson, Norell changed his surname while at Pratt. He described his name change as, “ ‘Nor’ for Norman, ‘l’ for Levinson, with another ‘l’ added for looks.” After graduation, he joined the East coast studios of Paramount Pictures as a costume designer and after a year went on to work for the Brooks Costume Company and for wholesale dress manufacturer Charles Armour. In 1928, Norell went to work for Hattie Carnegie, where he spent the next twelve years working in “complete anonymity,” modifying elements of Paris couture for American ready-to-wear designs. During these early years, Norell learned about cut, fit, and quality fabrics, as seasonal trips to view the Paris collections exposed him to the standards of couture. However, a disagreement with Carnegie led Norell to accept a position with the design firm Anthony Traina in 1940. Traina offered him a large salary if when he joined the company name did not have to change; however, Norell insisted and accepted a lower salary in exchange for changing the company name to Traina-Norrell. In 1943, Norell won a Coty Fashion Award and became a critic at Pratt Institute fashion department, where he was previously a student. In 1960, Norell started his own label, Norman Norell Ltd. He popularized the Empire-line dresses, culotte-skirted suits, sailor-style dresses, and the chemise dress, which was inspired by his favorite decade, the 1920s. He considered his simple, round necklines—at times embellished with bows or Peter Pan collars—his greatest contribution to fashion. Unlike couture designers, who only produce a garment for a specific person, Norell applied his high-standards to mass produced garments. Even though his clothes were ready-to-wear, each Norell garment was handled from start-to-finish by the same worker. Upon his death in 1972, the New York Times proclaimed: “Norman Norell made Seventh Avenue the rival of Paris.”

Goupil, Jean-Baptiste Adolphe
US.20190404.004 · Pessoa · 1806-1893

Adolphe Goupil is an art trader and engraver. In 1829, Goupil and his partner Rittner founded Maison Goupil which printed and sold engravings and lithographs. The house specialised in the sale of engravings after pictures by Ingres, Hippolyte Delaroche and Léopold Robert. After Rittner's death in 1842, Goupil formed a new partnership with Théodore Virbet creating Goupil, Virbet et Cie. In 1850, Adolphe Goupil formed Goupil & Cie. Goupil & Cie concentrated on buying, selling, and editing prints. The firm's factory outside of Paris employed skilled craftsmen to produce engraved, etched, photographic and even sculptural copies of artworks in vast quantities. Goupil & Cie's reproductions are largely credited with making Jean-Léon Gérôme a well known artist. Adolphe Goupil partnered with many other people until his retirement in 1882, including Vincent van Goph, the uncle of the famous painter with the same name.

Marty, André Édouard (1882-1974)
US.20190412.001 · Pessoa · 1882-1974

Artist André Édouard Marty was part the "Beau Brummels of the Brush," the core group of illustrators--and friends--at the heart of the magazine Gazette du bon ton. He was a premier, in-demand fashion illustrator of the period whose romantic, often contemplative, illustrations can be found in Modes et manieres d'aujourd hui, Femina, Vogue and Vanity Fair, to name a few. In 1925, he served on the jury of the now famous 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes. He also gained prestige as a book and poster illustrator during this period, and later as a set and costume designer.

Lepape, Georges, 1887-1971
US.20190412.016 · Pessoa · 1887-1971

Parisian illustrator known for his collaboration with Paul Poiret on the album Les Choses de Paul Poiret vues par Georges Lepape and the illustrated covers he produced for American, French and British editions of Vogue.

Lepape was born in Paris, where he lived all throughout his life. He received his artistic training at the École des Beaux Arts and studied in the studio of the historical painter Fernand Cormon, where he formed friendships with top artists of his generation. In 1911, Paul Poiret introduced him into the world of fashion illustration, giving him complete artistic freedom in creating the album Les Choses de Paul Poiret vues par Georges Lepape. Lepape continued his career as a fashion illustrator contributing to La Gazette du bon ton, Modes et Manières d’aujourd ‘hui and Harper’s Bazar and Femina. Following WWI, Lepape taught for twelve years at the New York School of Fine and Applied Art in Paris.

Georges LePape born on the Rue Montaigne May 26, 1887 and by the age of eighteen enrolled in the Ecole des Beaux-Arts. At age 20 Lepape had already formed strong liaisons with such notable artists as Georges Braque, and Marie Laurencin. His first Salon submissions came the year prior to his 1909 marriage to Gabrielle Lausanne, and one year later he formed his historical collaboration with Paul Poiret. Over the next ten years, Poiret would become Paris’s leading haute couture designer and Lepape would be recognized as one of the world’s most brilliant fashion illustrators.

Beginning with the exclusive limited edition album “Les Choses de Paul Poiret”, Lepape introduced the ideas of “motion” and “story” to fashion illustration by showing some models actually leaving the viewing frame and by turning their backs to the viewer. These illustration techniques were further developed with publisher Lucien Vogel between 1912 and 1925 as Lepape became one of the primary contributors to the famous Gazette du Bon Ton. By 1920 Lepape was at the very top of his profession. He had completed a prolific decade of work, including illustrations for the houses of Worth, Lanvin, Paquin, Doucet, Beer among others, cover work for Harper's Bazaar and the first cover for Vogue Magazine (Oct.1916, English edition), numerous commissions for fur, perfume and other luxury goods producers, illustrations for theatre programs (particularly for the Ballets Russes), costume and set designs for Marcel L’Herbier and a series of posters for Galeries Lafayette.

In 1920 the Musee des Arts Decoratifs held the first major exhibition of his work. He followed this with major contributions that year to the post-war re-introduction of Gazette du Bon Ton, to Paul Poiret’s European Tour, to the introduction of Vogue France and with the publication of a special edition of Modes et Manières d'aujourd'hui featuring twelve of his new fashion plates. The following years saw continued high demand for Lepape’s talents and a branching out to include catalogue illustration, film posters and even some minor industrial design.

Conde Nast invited Lepape to New York in 1926, further cementing a long and profitable relationship with Vogue as that publication took over Gazette du Bon Ton. He illustrated eight of the Vogue covers in 1927 plus covers for Vanity Fair, while continuing to expand his client list to include Hermes, Wanamaker’s Department Store and Femina Magazine, among others, and to further increase his visibility in the theatrical world.

George Lepape remained a prolific and sought-after working artist right up to the time of his death, at age 84, on Feb 15, 1971. His works have been shown at several major exhibitions including the Palais Grenvelle in 1963, the Musee des Arts Decoratifs again in 1966 and the Minneapolis Institute of Arts in 1971.

Poll, Carol
US.20190516.002 · Pessoa

Carol Poll was a professor of sociology at FIT and interviewed members of the FIT community for the FIT 50th Anniversary oral history series.

Gosé i Rovira, Xavier, 1876-1915
US.20190413.002 · Pessoa · 1876-1915

The Spanish artist who received his artistic training in Barcelona first visited Paris in 1900 to view that year’s Exposition Universelle. Enraptured with the bohemian art scene of Montparnasse, Gosé would alternate living between Paris and Barcelona for the next fifteen years, working as a painter and illustrator. A regular contributor to the early years of Gazette du bon ton, Gosé’s work is noticeably absent in the latter issues; the artist suffered from a chronic respiratory condition and died prematurely, in his hometown of Lérida, at the age of 39.

Simpson, Adele
US.20190715.002 · Pessoa · December 8, 1903 – 1995 August 23

Adele Simpson began her career working for several 7th Ave ready-to-wear fashion houses in New York. In 1942, she went to work for Mary Lee and worked for Lee under her own name by 1944. She received the Neiman Marcus Award in 1946 and the Coty Award in 1947. In 1949, she bought the Lee's company and renamed it Adele Simpson, Inc. She was known throughout the 1970s and 1980s for her wearable chemise dresses and shirtwaists. Simpson dressed many First Ladies throughout her career.

Yamamoto, Yohji, 1943-
US.20200715.010 · Pessoa · 1943-

Yohji Yamamoto is a Japanese contemporary fashion designer. Yamamoto's mother was a dressmaker with a shop in Shinjuku and he worked as her assistant after graduating with a law degree from Keio University in 1966. At her behest, he later enrolled at Bunka Fashion College. Yamamoto opened his first shop in Paris in the early 1980s and has since become internationally renowned with his lines Yohji Yamamoto, Y's, Pour Homme, Costume d'Homme, and Regulation Yohji Yamamoto. He has collaborated with brands including Adidas (Y-3), Hermès, Mikimoto and Mandarina Duck.

Zelinka, David
US.20190730.003 · Pessoa · Unknown

David Zelinka grew up in the fashion business in the Lower East Side. He attended New York University and worked as a salesman in the women's garment industry. In 1929, he founded his own company, producing women's coats and suits. After closing his business, he became chairman of the Fashion Institute of Technology's Educational Foundation for the Fashion Industries.

Norton, Eleanor Holmes
US.20200715.009 · Pessoa · 1937-

Eleanor Holmes Norton is a delegate to the U.S. House of Representatives, representing the District of Columbia.

Abzug, Bella S., 1920-1998
US.20200715.005 · Pessoa · 1920-1998

Bella Savitzky Abzug was an American lawyer, U.S. Representative, social activist and a leader of the Women's Movement. In 1971, Abzug joined other leading feminists such as Gloria Steinem, Shirley Chisholm, and Betty Friedan to found the National Women's Political Caucus.

Russell, Arniece
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Arniece Russell, a native New Yorker, was Miss Black America in 1973.

Koch, Ed, 1924-2013
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Ed Koch was an American politician who served in the United States House of Representatives from 1969 to 1977 and was mayor of New York City from 1978 to 1989.

Weitz, John
US.20200509.015 · Pessoa · 1923-2002

John Weitz was born in 1923 in Berlin, and came to the United States in 1939. He served as an O.S.S. officer in World War II and founded John Weitz designs shortly after. He started with creating women's sportswear and entered the menswear arena in 1964. He was one of the first American designers to enter into licensing deals, known for his witty advertisements.

Phillips, Lawrence S.
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Lawrence S. Phillips was a longtime executive with Phillips-Van Heusen, his family's clothing company. He was also a founder of the American Jewish World Service, an organization dedicated to ending poverty and promoting human rights.

Zelnik, Martin, 1939-2022
US.20200522.002 · Pessoa · 1939- 2022 April 1

Martin "Marty" Zelnik, was born and raised in the Riverdale section of the Bronx. He attended Riverdale Country School from kindergarten to high school. He then attended Brandeis University where he played sports, and was inducted into the Brandeis Hall of Fame for tennis. During his senior spring season at Brandeis he served as their first Women’s tennis team coach. After Brandeis, Zelnik attended the Columbia University School of Architecture and founded Panzel Zelnik Associates, a distinguished architecture firm that he led for 50 years. He taught for the Interior Design program at the Fashion Institute of Technology from 1969 to 1999, making major contributions to the program, and held the position of Chairperson of the Faculty Association at FIT. He co-authored three major design standard publications. Zelnik passed away on April 1, 2022 at the age of 82.

Nipon, Pearl
US.20201016.033 · Pessoa · Unknown

Pearl Nipon was a fashion designer known for her feminine designs. She collaborated with her husband, Albert Nipon. Pearl Nipon passed away at 90, in 2018.