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Griffin, Sunny
US.20220318.057 · Pessoa · 1940 November 17-
Johnson, Beverly
US.20220318.058 · Pessoa · 1952 October 13-
Lewin, Gideon
US.20220318.050 · Pessoa · 1939-
Meehan, Jane
US.20220318.045 · Pessoa
Morse, Rio
US.202203018.046 · Pessoa
Small, Doreen
US.20220318.031 · Pessoa
Roberts, Louise
US.20220318.032 · Pessoa
Oxenberg, Catherine
US.20220318.018 · Pessoa · 1961 September 22-
Tiegs, Cheryl
US.20220318.001 · Pessoa · 1947 September 25 -
Keagy, Ann
US.20220401.013 · Pessoa
Linden, Denise
US.20220401.012 · Pessoa
Sullivan, Edna
US.20220401.011 · Pessoa
Shaw, Doris, 1921-2019
US.20220505.001 · Pessoa · 1921 September 12-2019 March 16

Doris Shaw was born on September 12, 1921, in Richmond, Virginia to Barnett H. Garey and Cora Wachsman Garey as one of eight children. As an adult, she worked in creative retail marketing, dating back to her first assignment after graduating from Newark School of Fine Arts in 1942. She landed her first paying job as assistant art director at Loeser's Department Store in Brooklyn when she was 21.

Shaw's talent in directing advertising, published across all media and communication channels, led her to become the first woman to head up Marketing at Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale's, and Abraham & Straus (now Macy's). She was the Editor-in-Chief at House Beautiful magazine. She also gave talks to the Marketing and Fashion community, and was interviewed and published in design magazines and blogs. Shaw passed away in March, 2019.

Rossbach Jr., Jay H.
US.20220606.003 · Pessoa · -2014

Jay H. Rossbach, Jr., son of fashion designer Sophie Gimbel, was a graduate of the Berkshire School in Sheffield, Mass., and Brown University, class of '43. He joined Saks Fifth Avenue in New York in 1946 after service as a lieutenant in the Naval Reserve, retiring in 1976 after thirty years as Senior Vice President. Rossbach died on February 15, 2014.

Mayar, Sid
US.20220910.008 · Pessoa

Sidney Mayer was born in 1928 in Brooklyn, NY and started as a trainee at Saks Fifth Avenue in 1950 right after graduating from the Graduate School of Business at Columbia University. He spent his entire career at the store. Mayer became a men's clothing buyer in the late 1950s and rose to general merchandise manager of men's and boy's wear, and children's in the mid-1970s. He subsequently became a general merchandise manager for women's accessories, shoes, lingerie and gifts. Later he became the first vice president named for men’s clothing at the company and ultimately rose to senior vice president. During his time at the retailer, Mayer was the first to give Ralph Lauren a shop at Saks at a time when designer boutiques were few and far between. He traveled the world buying fabrics for the company’s private-label offerings and helped build the store’s men’s and boys’ departments as well as its men’s shoe area. In the mid-1980s, he became a senior vice president and general merchandise manager for merchandise planning and liquidation.

Jacobs, Melvin
US.20220910.001 · Pessoa

Melvin Jacobs started his career as an assistant in the bargain basement at Bloomingdale's. He rose through the ranks of merchants at Bloomingdale's, ultimately becoming a senior vice president and general merchandise manager of the chain during his 25 years at the store. In 1972, he was appointed president of Burdine's, a Florida-based department store chain owned by Federated Department Stores Inc. Federated later brought him into its corporate offices in Cincinnati as a vice chairman, but in 1982 he moved to join Saks Fifth Avenue as its chairman and chief executive. Just before he retired, Jacobs had joined the board of QVC Network Inc. While retired, he started a retailing and investment company called Retail Options Inc. with Kenneth Walker and the former president of the Limited Stores, Verna Gibson.

Blair, Mary
US.20220910.003 · Pessoa · 1911-1978

Mary Blair was an artist, animator and set designer best known for her work for Walt Disney. During the 1940s and 50s, Blair animated and led the animation teams which created Disney classics including Cinderella, Alice in Wonderland, Fantasia and Dumbo among others. She also contributed character, mural and set designs for Disney theme parks including It's a Small World. She later worked as an illustrator for Little Golden Books for children and designed stage sets for theatrical productions.

Rouff, Maggy
US.20221010.01 · Pessoa · 1896-1971

Maggy Rouff was the professional name of Marguerite Besancon de Wagner. Rouff established her own couture house sometime around 1928 after getting her start in fashion working for her parents who were the directors of Angès-Drécoll. Rouff was known for a feminine feel for her fashions which often incorporated ruffles and lace and chic sportswear. She also worked as a Hollywood costume designer creating looks for the likes of Greta Garbo, Theda Bara and Pola Negri.

Koehler, Mela
US.20230525.003 · Pessoa · 1885-1960

As an art student, Koehler (1885-1960) studied under Kolomon Moser at the School of Applied Arts in Vienna and later joined Moser's Wiener Werkstätte and the German and Austrian Werkbund. Koehler's work in fashion included not only illustrations for the Wiener Werkstätte and the fashion magazine Wiener Mode, but also textile design and at least one collaboration with Emilie Flöge's Schwestern Flöge fashion house. Koehler moved to Sweden in 1931 where she worked extensively as a costume designer and book illustrator. Her illustrations for children's books are of special note.

Bryan, Robert
US.20221103.001 · Pessoa

Bryan was born in Orlando, Florida in the late 1940s and soon after his family moved to Virginia. His passion for fashion began during his adolescence when he discovered the 1930s through Hollywood movies. He studied Art History at the University of Virginia and went to law school at the George Washington University before settling to New York in 1968. He worked at the Abraham and Strauss Department store in Brooklyn until 1973 when he started his career with Fairchild Publications. He was the fashion editor of Men's Wear Magazine from 1973 to 1983 and "M" The Civilized Man from 1983 to 1993, and Men's fashion director for "W" Magazine in 1993. He then joined he New York Times in 1995 until 2006. He contributed articles to the CFDA Third volume of American Fashion in 2008.

Gray, Francine
US.20230525.002 · Pessoa
Kleine, Andrea
US.20230524.003 · Pessoa

Andrea Kleine is the author of the novels, CALF, a Publishers' Weekly Best Fiction Book of 2015; and EDEN, named one of "Summer's Smartest and Most Innovative Thrillers" by Vanity Fair and a finalist for a Publishing Triangle Award in LGBTQ fiction. Her work includes fiction, essays, performances, and, most recently, films. She is a five-time MacDowell fellow and a New York Foundation for the Arts fellow. Kleine worked in the FIT Library for many years until 2023, initiating the Soul Fashion Club oral history project in that time.

Curinton Rippy, Karen
US.20221217.006 · Pessoa

Karen Curinton Rippy graduated from the Fashion Institute of Technology with AAS and BFA degrees. While at FIT. Karen joined the Soul Club and was part of the Soul Fashion Show from 1980-1991, designing clothes and modeling for the annual show. Karen received the Designer of the Year title in 1990. Karen has been an adjunct professor at FIT for 32 years, and an adjunct faculty member at Parsons School of Design since 2005. In 2015 Prof. Curinton Rippy retired from the Pratt Institute after 16 years.
Karen has had a full career in the intimate apparel, swimwear, and athleisure industry, working for Jack Murphy Lougewear, Bill Tice, Martha Colon, Victoria’s Secret, and Adore Me, an online lingerie company. At Parsons/The New School, Karen wrote the curriculum and taught the first lingerie fundamentals course in 2014, and also the swim/athleisure course in 2017.
Karen has won many “Excellence in Design” awards and in 2013 received the AFD Faculty Award from the School of Fashion at Parsons.
As a hobby, Karen makes ethnic fabric dolls and one of a kind treasures.

Wood, John P.
US.20230524.001 · Pessoa · early 20th century (active)

President of the National Association of Wool Manufacturers.

Acra, Reem
2023040602 · Pessoa

Reem Acra was born in Beirut and after studying business at the American University of Beirut, moved to New York to study at the Fashion Institute of Technology where she graduated magne cum laude and won awards for her senior collection. Acra subsequently studied fashion design at ESMOD in Paris and briefly worked in Hong Kong and Taiwan before launching her own bridal wear brand Reem Acra New York in 1997. The brand continues to be known for its bridal looks and high-end RTW eveningwear.

Porges, Lucie, 1926-2011
US.NNFIT.SC.2023072601 · Pessoa · 1926-2011

Born in 1926, Lucie Porges and her family fled their homeland of Vienna, Austria in 1938 to escape World War II. Settling in Switzerland in 1942, by 1945 Lucie Porges was studying drawing at École des Beaux-Arts. In 1948 she moved to Paris to work under couturiers such as Maggy Rouff. She was also creating illustrations for the fashion magazine L’Art et la mode. In 1951 she moved to New York City with her fiancé the cartoonist Paul Peter Porges. It was here that she connected with fashion designer Pauline Trigère, who would be her associate for 43 years. Porges not only contributed sketches but she also organized shows, booked models and chose photographers. The two women would travel to Europe yearly to purchase fabrics for their collections. The different styles of Pauline Trigère and Lucie Porges worked together to create the new distinct American mode influenced by European designs, combining more casual clothes with elevated eveningwear. After the closure of Pauline Trigère's fashion house in 1994 Lucie Porges worked as a teacher at Parsons, where she taught a class titled “Fashion Atelier” for 14 years. In 2000 depictions of her work and early sketches were featured alongside cartoons by her husband in an exhibition in Vienna entitled “Lucie and Paul Peter Porges: Style and Humor.” At first hesitant to exhibit in Vienna, she concluded: “I feel this show is like rounding out the circle. A way of showing them we won.'' Lucie Porges died in 2011 at the age of 85.

Bernay, Beryl
US.NNFIT.SC.2023080101 · Pessoa · 1926-2020

Born Beryl Bernstein in Brooklyn, NY in 1926 to Russian Jewish immigrant parents, Beryl's father changed the family's last name to Berney when she was a child. She later changed the spelling to Bernay and went on to study art and photography at Cooper Union and The Art Students League as well as fashion design at the Fashion Academy in New York City. A stint producing children's television during the 1950s and early 1960s paralleled her working as an actor on Broadway. During the 1960s and 70s, she worked as an international journalist, reporting for the United Nations, NPR, ABC, NBC, The New York Times, Time and Newsweek. Throughout her life, she continued to make an exhibition artwork and appeared on the stage and screen. Bernay died in March 2020 in Manhattan at the age of 94 due to complications induced by the COVID-19 virus.

Clark, Margaret
US.20230815.001 · Pessoa

Parsons-trained Margaret Clark married shoe designer Jerry Miller and in the early 1950's they set up their own company, the Margaret Clark Design Studio. In 1954, the two founded their own wholesaling shoe company, Shoe Biz, selling Clark's design under the label "Margaret Jerrold." Other brand names included Pancaldi (Walter Steiger, principle designer) Edouard Jerrold (Jann Johnson, principle designer) and Shoe Strings (Donald Hubbard, principle designer). Margaret Jerrold shoes were known for their high style and fine workmanship. In 1960, her designs appeared on the cover of Harper's Bazaar. Margaret, a graduate of the University of Oklahoma School of Fine Arts and Parsons School of Design designed shoes that were sold in Lord & Taylor, Saks, Nordstrom's and Nieman-Marcus. In 1960, and in 1961 she received the National Shoe Retailers Award and in 1964 the Nieman-Marcus award. In 1964 she retired due to poor health.

unknown creator(s)
US.20180711.039 · [non-DACS actor]
Ziegfeld follies
US.20200509.0026 · [non-DACS actor] · 1907-1931

The Ziegfeld Follies was a series of elaborate theatrical revue productions on Broadway in New York City from 1907 to 1931. In 1932 they became a radio program as the Ziegfeld Follies of the Air.

New Yorker (New York, N.Y. : 1925)
US.20200509.028 · [non-DACS actor] · 1925-

Established in 1925, according to newyorker.com, "Today The New Yorker is considered by many to be the most influential magazine in the world, renowned for its in-depth reporting, political and cultural commentary, fiction, poetry, and humor. In addition to the weekly print magazine, newyorker.com has become a daily digital destination for news and cultural coverage by staff writers and contributors. In print and online, The New Yorker stands apart for its commitment to truth and accuracy, for the quality of its prose, and for its insistence on exciting and moving every reader."

McCall's
US.20201215.68 · [non-DACS actor] · 1873-2002

McCall's was a monthly American women's magazine published by the McCall corporation. The magazine was founded by Scottish tailor James McCall in 1873 under the title The Queen.

Vogue Germany
US.20220318.016 · [non-DACS actor] · 1928-
Leibovitz, Annie, 1949-
US.20200804.006 · Pessoa · 1949-

Annie Leibovitz is an American portrait photographer and has done significant work for publications including Rolling Stone and Vanity Fair.

Minkoff, Rebecca
US.20200328.017 · Pessoa · 1980-

Rebecca Minkoff is an American designer providing accessible luxury handbags, accessories, footwear and apparel. The brand today has two domestic retail stores, eight international locations, and is distributed in over 900 stores worldwide.

Metrick, Marc J.
US.20200918.002 · Pessoa

Marc J. Metrick is the President of Saks Fifth Avenue. He has been with Saks since 1995, beginning in their executive training program before spending over 15 years in senior leadership roles and eventually becoming Saks' chief strategy officer. In 2012, he joined Hudson’s Bay Company as its chief marketing officer and executive vice president, overseeing marketing and digital commerce for Hudson’s Bay and Lord & Taylor. In 2013, he was appointed chief administrative officer of Hudson’s Bay Company and aided in their acquisition of Saks that same year. He was promoted to President of Saks in 2015.

Karan, Donna, 1948-
US.20200523.002 · Pessoa · 1948-

Donna Karan was born Donna Faske in 1948 in Queens, New York. Both of her parents were involved in the fashion business; her father Gabby sold men's clothing in his store, while her mother Helen was a showroom model and sales representative. Donna began experimenting with fashion while still in high school by working for Liz Claiborne as an intern during the summer . She later attended the Parsons School of Design in New York, and worked with Anne Klein while she attended classes. After graduating from Parsons, Donna began working full time with Klein as an associate designer from 1971 until Anne's death in 1974. Karan was then named Klein's successor and partnered with fellow designer Louis Dell'Olio to design the Anne Klein Collection. After success with that line, Karan independently created Anne Klein II, and then set out on her own to begin her own line in 1984. Her first designs were immediately praised and bought up by women around the world. Karan, known as "the queen of Seventh Avenue" , owns and is the chief executive of Donna Karan Company managing marketing, production of clothing and design. Her empire houses almost 2000 employees and brings in an annual revenue of $622.6 million. Karan's fashion presence is strong, with 10 full-price stores worldwide and the DKNY world flagship store on Madison Avenue in New York City. She is credited with being one of the chief innovators of the bridge line. Her clothes are regarded as "user-friendly and luxurious", a staple to modern women looking for comfort as well as style.
In 1988, Donna Karan introduced her cheaper DKNY line, targeting young adults. Today, Donna's empire has grown to gain international success and recognition.

Fried, (Furman) Eleanor
US.20200804.016 · Pessoa · 1913-

Eleanor Fried was born in 1913 in New York City. At age two, her family moved to Long Island. She graduated from Barnard College in 1933. Fried joined the Fashion Institute of Technology (New York, N.Y.) in 1947, leaving her previous position in the New York State Employment Service. She was Director of Placement from 1947 - 1973. After retiring, she was given the title Professor Emeritus.

Jarnow, Dorothy
US.20200918.014 · Pessoa
Guggenheim, Elly
US.20200918.010 · Pessoa · 1912-2008

Elinor "Elly" Coleman Guggenheimer was an American activist and philanthropist. She was born on April 11, 1912. Educated at Vassar and Barnard College, over the course of 70 years in public service, Guggenheimer founded the Day Care Council of New York, the Day Care and Child Development Council, the Child Care Action Campaign, the New York Women’s Agenda, the International Women’s Forum, and the Council of Senior Centers and Services, and cofounded the National Women’s Political Caucus. In December, 1997, then First Lady, Hillary Clinton awarded Elinor Guggenheimer the Presidential Citizens Medal on behalf of the President. Elly Guggenheimer continued to be involved in civic and philanthropic activities until her death, at the age of 96, on September 29, 2008.

Wagner, Robert
US.20220414.017 · Pessoa · 1930 February 10-

R.J. Wagner was born 1930 in Detroit, the son of a steel executive. His family moved to Los Angeles when he was seven. Always wanting to be an actor, he held a variety of jobs (including one as a golf caddy for Clark Gable) while pursuing his goal, but it was while dining with his parents at a restaurant in Beverly Hills that he was "discovered" by a talent scout. After making his uncredited screen debut in The Happy Years (1950), Wagner was signed by 20th Century Fox, which carefully built him up toward stardom. He played romantic leads with ease, but it was not until he essayed the two-scene role of a shell-shocked war veteran in With a Song in My Heart (1952) that studio executives recognized his potential as a dramatic actor. He went on to play the title roles in Prince Valiant (1954) and The True Story of Jesse James (1957), and portrayed a cold-blooded murderer in A Kiss Before Dying (1956). In the mid-'60s, however, his film career skidded to a stop after The Pink Panther (1963). Several years of unemployment followed before Wagner made a respectable transition to television as star of the lighthearted espionage series It Takes a Thief (1968). He also starred on the police series Switch (1975), but Wagner's greatest success was opposite Stefanie Powers on the internationally popular Hart to Hart (1979), which ran from 1979 through 1984 and has since been sporadically revived in TV-movie form (another series, Lime Street (1985), was quickly canceled due to the tragic death of Wagner's young co-star, Samantha Smith). Considered one of Hollywood's nicest citizens, Robert Wagner has continued to successfully pursue a leading man career; he has also launched a latter-day stage career, touring with Stefanie Powers in the readers' theater presentation "Love Letters". He found success playing Number Two, a henchman to Dr. Evil in Austin Powers: International Man of Mystery (1997) and its sequels, and in 2007, he began playing Teddy Leopold, a recurring role on the CBS sitcom Two and a Half Men (2003).

Tarsius, Arthur
US.20201202.003 · Pessoa · Unknown

Arthur Tarsius assisted Norman Goodman, son of one of the original FIT founders, Abe Goodman in setting up a trade show. This trade show aided in the efforts of FIT to make a name for itself.

Yang, Michael
US.20191123.004 · Pessoa · Unknown

Michael Yang is a Korean American technology entrepreneur and investor. He received an undergraduate degree and an MBA from the University of California, Berkeley and a graduate degree from Columbia University. He founded mySimon, Inc., Become, Inc., Council of Korean Americans and Michael Yang Capital Management LLC.

Sottsass, Ettore
US.20191123.005 · Pessoa · Unknown

Ettore Sottsass was an Italian architect who helped found a design collective known as the Memphis Group. He designed several products for the Olivetti company while also producing his own objects.

Kors, Michael
US.20191213.007 · Pessoa · 1959-

Kors was born Karl Anderson, Jr. on Long Island, New York, the son of Joan Hamburger, a former model, and her first husband, Karl Anderson. When his mother remarried when he was five, he was told he could change his name, and he chose to become Michael David Kors. Kors began designing clothes at the age of 19 and studied fashion design at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City. In 1981, he launched the Michael Kors womenswear line at Bloomingdales, Bergdorf Goodman, Lord & Taylor, Neiman Marcus, and Saks Fifth Avenue. Building on his success, Kors was named the first ever women's ready-to-wear designer and creative director for the French fashion house Celine in 1997. In his tenure at Celine, Kors turned the fashion house around with blockbuster accessories and a critically acclaimed ready-to-wear line. Kors left Celine in October 2003 to concentrate on his own brand. Kors launched his menswear line in 2002.

In addition to the Michael Kors runway collection, the MICHAEL Michael Kors and KORS Michael Kors lines were launched in 2004. KORS is considered the mid-tier line, between the runway and MICHAEL collections. The MICHAEL line includes women's handbags and shoes as well as women's ready-to-wear apparel. The KORS line contains footwear and Jeans. Currently, Kors has full collection boutiques in New York, Beverly Hills, Palm Beach, Manhasset, and Chicago. Kors was a judge on the Emmy-nominated reality television program Project Runway, which aired on Bravo for five seasons.

Wang, Vera
US.20200804.018 · Pessoa

Vera Wang is an American fashion designer specializing in bridal wear. Wang got her start in fashion working at Vogue magazine in 1971. She eventually became the senior fashion editor, a title she held for 15 years. In 1987, she left the publication to take a job as a design director for accessories at Ralph Lauren. She opened her bridal boutique in 1990, after designing her own wedding dress the year prior. Her boutique first offered designs from brands including Dior and Carolina Herrera until Wang was able to hone her skills as a fashion designer and create her own signature collection a few years later. Further expansion of her brand includes elegant evening wear, a fragrance, a wedding guide, home products, and an affordable ready-to-wear line with Kohl's called Simply Vera.

Wolman, Baron
US.20200804.020 · Pessoa · 1937-

Baron Wolman is an American photographer most well known for his work in music photography for Rolling Stone, for which he was their first staff photographer.

Smith, Willi
US.20200118.005 · Pessoa · 1948-1987

Willi Smith was one of the most successful young black fashion designers in America in the 1980s. Throughout his career, he created smart, tailored sportswear for women, designing for men in later years. These clothes were consistently injected with whimsy and irreverence.

Smith’s innovative, affordable garments, which Americans who weren’t rich and famous could enjoy, earned the title “Street Couture.” The arts scene exploding around SoHo, where Smith lived, inspired him to create clothes with a playful, yet entirely grown-up exuberance.

Smith arrived at Parsons on two scholarships in 1965, eventually dropping out to freelance in the fashion industry. He began designing for Digits Sportswear, where he met Laurie Mallet, with whom he founded his own womenswear line in 1976, WilliWear. Smith was mentored by Arthur McGee.

The hallmark of WilliWear’s aesthetic was reasonably priced, comfortable garments in natural fabrics and vivid, mixed prints. His clothes found mass appeal among a new generation of American women who entered the workforce in the 1970s and 1980s.

Smith designed WilliWear’s seasonal collections for 11 years, and was the first designer to house womenswear and menswear under the same brand. WilliWear was sold in over 500 doors, and was grossing over $25 million a year by 1986.

In 1971, Smith became the youngest designer to be nominated for a Coty Award, eventually winning the Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award for Women’s Fashion, in 1983.

Smith died of pneumonia in 1987, after contracting a parasitic disease in India, which he’d spent years visiting for work. An autopsy later revealed that Smith also had AIDS.

Eisenhower, Mamie Doud, 1896-1979
US.20200118.017 · Pessoa · 1896 November 14-1979 November 1

Mamie Geneva Doud Eisenhower was the wife of the 34th President, Dwight D. Eisenhower, and a very popular First Lady of the United States from 1953 to 1961.

Born in Boone, Iowa, in 1896, Mamie Geneva Doud moved with her family to Colorado when she was seven. Her father retired from business, and Mamie and her three sisters grew up in a large house in Denver. During winters the family made long visits to relatives in the milder climate of San Antonio, Texas.

There, in 1915, at Fort Sam Houston, Mamie met Dwight D. Eisenhower, a young second lieutenant on his first tour of duty. She drew his attention instantly, he recalled: “a vivacious and attractive girl, smaller than average, saucy in the look about her face and in her whole attitude.” On St. Valentine’s Day in 1916 he gave her a miniature of his West Point class ring to seal a formal engagement; they were married at the Doud home in Denver on July 1.

For years Mamie Eisenhower’s life followed the pattern of other Army wives: a succession of posts in the United States, in the Panama Canal Zone; duty in France, in the Philippines. She once estimated that in 37 years she had unpacked her household at least 27 times. Each move meant another step in the career ladder for her husband, with increasing responsibilities for her.

The first son Doud Dwight or “Icky,” who was born in 1917, died of scarlet fever in 1921. A second child, John, was born in 1922 in Denver. Like his father he had a career in the army; later he became an author and served as ambassador to Belgium.

During World War II, while promotion and fame came to “Ike,” Mamie lived in Washington. After he became president of Columbia University in 1948, the Eisenhowers purchased a farm at Gettysburg, Pennsylvania. It was the first home they had ever owned. His duties as commander of North Atlantic Treaty Organization forces–and hers as his hostess at a chateau near Paris–delayed work on their dream home, finally completed in 1955. They celebrated with a housewarming picnic for the staff from their last temporary quarters: the White House.

When Eisenhower had campaigned for President, his wife cheerfully shared his travels; when he was inaugurated in 1953, the American people warmly welcomed her as First Lady. Diplomacy–and air travel–in the postwar world brought changes in their official hospitality. The Eisenhowers entertained an unprecedented number of heads of state and leaders of foreign governments, and Mamie’s evident enjoyment of her role endeared her to her guests and to the public.

In 1961 the Eisenhowers returned to Gettysburg for eight years of contented retirement together. After her husband’s death in 1969, Mamie continued to live on the farm, devoting more of her time to her family and friends. Mamie Eisenhower died on November 1, 1979. She is buried beside her husband in a small chapel on the grounds of the Eisenhower Library in Abilene, Kansas.

The biographies of the First Ladies on WhiteHouse.gov are from “The First Ladies of the United States of America,” by Allida Black. Copyright 2009 by the White House Historical Association.

Alfaro, Victor, 1963-
US.20200118.020 · Pessoa · 1963-

Victor Alfaro is a Mexican fashion designer based in New York City. His collection is sold under the VICTOR ALFARO label, and his company’s ready-to-wear collection is available at luxury retailers such as Barneys New York, The Room, Lane Crawford, Net-a-Porter and several boutiques throughout the U.S. Alfaro also designs a home furnishings collection under the CASA by Victor Alfaro brand, sold exclusively at The Bon-Ton Stores.

Alfaro came to the U.S. in 1981 from Mexico and graduated from the Fashion Institute of Technology in 1987. Since the inception of his company, he has been honored with numerous industry accolades and awards recognizing his talent, including the Perry Ellis Award for New Fashion Talent at the 1995 CFDA Fashion Awards.

Helpern, Joan, 1926-2016
US.20200125.001 · Pessoa · 1926-2016

Joan Helpern was an American shoe designer. She was the head designer of the Joan & David line of shoes, a company she co-owned with her husband David Helpern. Joan & David popularized elegant, comfortable — and non-high-heeled — shoes for working women in the 1960s.

Joan Evelyn Marshall was born on October 10, 1926 in the Bronx. She attended Hunter College in Manhattan, majoring in economics, psychology and English. She earned a master's degree in social psychology from Columbia University and a doctorate in psychology from Harvard University.

Joan and David married in 1960. David Helpern worked in his family's clothing stores and for a time, Joan was a child psychologist in the New York City school system. Joan began her second career as a shoe designer in the 1960s, working for a small Boston shoe company and as a consultant to a firm that operated several chains. Eventual she and David decided to start the Joan & David shoe label.

“We had noticed that women were running through airports,” Ms. Helpern told The New York Times in 2012. “We decided to make shoes for women who run through airports.”

Within two decades, Joan & David, founded in Cambridge, Mass., was selling shoes and men and women’s apparel, bags and belts in about 100 outlets in the United States and Europe and grossing about $100 million. It had boutiques in the Ann Taylor retail chain and a flagship store on Madison Avenue in New York, where the company was later based.

In 2000, after five years of financial difficulties, the company sought bankruptcy protection and was sold to the Maxwell Shoe Company for $16.8 million.

David Helpern, from whom Joan was legally separated in 1998, died in 2012.

Mizrahi, Isaac
US.20200125.004 · Pessoa · 1961-

Isaac Mizrahi is an American fashion designer.

Mizrahi was born in Brooklyn, NY in 1961. He attended Parsons School of Design and during his time as a student and afterward, he did stints working for some of the great American masters of the 1980s, including Perry Ellis and Calvin Klein. He created his own eponymous line in 1987 and became on of the most acclaimed designers of the 1990s. Chanel took a stake in his company in 1992. His SoHo offices and design studio became a destination for Naomi Campbell, Sandra Bernhard and Liza Minnelli. Mizrahi was a frequent dinner guest at the home of the Vogue editor Anna Wintour. He befriended big names like Stephen Sondheim, Mark Morris and Maira Kalman. He was an early champion of diversity on the runway and a pioneer in taking the camera behind the scenes with the 1995 cult documentary “Unzipped.” But it was too much of a challenge for Mizrahi to grow the line without any production or retail infrastructure, and when Chanel pulled its financing in 1998 he decided to shut his doors.

In 2002 he briefly relaunched his couture studio at the same time that he opened a label with Target, making him one of the first designers to collaborate with a mass retailer, mixing high fashion with low prices and more inclusive sizing. In 2019 he launched a new line with QVC.

Miyake, Issei, 1938-
US.20200125.007 · Pessoa · 1938-

Japanese fashion designer, active in Tokyo and Paris. For his Autumn/Winter 1998 collection, Issey Miyake sent all his models down the Paris catwalk in a single stream of red, knitted tubing. Unlike the typical fashion show where the season’s look is unveiled in its finalized form, Miyake’s show was a presentation of his process. In collaboration with designer Dai Fujiwara, Miyake developed a radical approach to fashion design. Utilizing technological advances in fibre, fabric and computer science, he created a system to manufacture individual garments from a single thread. The method, known as A-POC, an acronym for ‘A Piece of Cloth’, is Miyake’s solution to the complicated manufacturing methods of traditional cut-and-sew garments.

Miyake was born in Hiroshima 1938 and witnessed the destruction and devastation of his country during World War II, but also saw its rise and redemption in the following years. This strength imbued in him allowed his artistry and discipline to grow. In 1959, Miyake attended Tama Art University in Tokyo where he studied graphic design. Though it was his passion, the university offered no courses in apparel arts. During this time, he struggled with the traditional Japanese views on fashion; that it was not an industry for men and that its core resided only in Paris. Despite these ideas, Miyake presented his first show in 1963 entitled A Poem of Cloth and Stone.

The show was based on the dynamic of dress as both a visual form and a utilitarian endeavour. Miyake’s work led him to Paris in 1965, where he studied at the Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. Upon graduation, he worked for designer Guy Laroche and eventually worked at Hubert de Givenchy. Paris gave him the training he needed, but it also exposed him to the rigid state of French fashion at the time and he intended to burst out of this shell.

He moved to New York in 1969 and worked for designer Geoffrey Beene, but returned to Tokyo in 1970 and opened up his first company, Miyake Design Studio. He was soon showing his collections in New York and Paris, and immediately gained international acclaim. In the following decade Miyake, along with designers Kenzo Takada (b 1939) and Rei Kawakubo of Commes des Garçons, solidified the relationship between Japanese designers and French fashion, creating a revolutionary league of Japanese avant-garde design. Miyake drew inspiration from both the old and new, East and West, taking such historical Japanese techniques as sashiko quilting, an 18th-century restoration stitch, and adapting it for contemporary design. He also created a body-stocking printed with traditional Japanese tattoos known as irezumi, but altered the designs to include the faces of Janis Joplin and Jimi Hendrix. The latter concept stemmed from his fascination with clothing as ‘second skin’.

In 1988, Miyake began researching the technique of pleating, experimenting with various fabrics and processes. Instead of pleating the fabric first as traditionally done, Miyake first created the garment, and then added the pleats. He also adapted this process to create zigzag and diagonal pleating that lent an architectural form to his garments. Five years later, Miyake launched the Pleats Please Issey Miyake label. The result of his research was an easily wearable, washable garment made of 100% polyester jersey, a fittingly practical approach to fashion.

With Miyake’s A-POC, thread is fed into A-POM (‘A Piece of Machine’) that has been programmed to knit or weave a garment directly into the fabric according to the wearer’s specifications. The result is a garment that is perfectly made-to-measure and created with minimal resources. A-POC thus achieves the democratization of fashion. It was a process created to serve the masses by fulfilling the needs of the individual and allows the wearer to be an active participant in the process of making clothes. Miyake’s revolutionary approach to design was the culmination of decades of his research and experimentation in fashion.

Already believing that fashion is an art, Miyake devoted his career to making it a solution. His process is ongoing, with each collection building upon the previous and reiterating his approach to maintaining traditions in fashion through technology. He aimed at reinventing the perception of fashion as well as the industry that produces it. His work has garnered praise from the worlds of art and fashion, and his pieces are in the holdings of such prestigious institutions as the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Kyoto Costume Institute. From 2008, the house of Issey Miyake was run by Dai Fujiwara, who graduated from Tama Art University in 1995 with a degree in textile design.

Blackwell, Elizabeth, 1821-1910
US.20200715.016 · Pessoa · 1821-1910

Elizabeth Blackwell was a British physician, and the first woman to receive a medical degree in the United States, as well as the first woman on the Medical Register of the General Medical Council. She was a large supporter and advocate for education for women in medicine.

Armani, Giorgio
US.20200201.013 · Pessoa · 1934-

Italian fashion designer. Armani was dubbed the ‘Sexy Tailor’ by the American fashion press for sartorial innovations he introduced in menswear. He brought sensual drape to traditional suit coats by eliminating rigid interlinings that had shaped and restricted men’s clothing in the 1970s. To complement his new softly-tailored coats, he created short, supple, collared shirts and textural, patterned ties. Armani’s impact on menswear went beyond unstructured sewing techniques to include a serene color palette inspired by the Italian artist Giorgio Morandi. The neutral earth tones included an inventive grey–beige (‘greige’), moss, mushroom and smoky grey–blue, tones not seen before in menswear. Armani claimed to be ‘the stylist without color’. Armani also brought a feminine touch to menswear and eventually expanded his design aesthetic to women’s clothing, bringing a powerful look to women’s fashion. His minimal modernism in cut and fit, while retaining maximum impact in silhouette and color, stimulated the fashion imagination of Hollywood, retailers, journalists and customers of both sexes.

Love of stage and cinema inspired Armani throughout his career, proving to be the catalyst to his future international recognition. After studying medicine, he completed his military service in the Army infirmary but sought civilian work more compatible with his temperament. In 1957 Armani went to work at La Rinascente, Milan, Italy’s most important fashion store, where his innovative visual merchandising skills earned him a promotion to their style office. Armani travelled extensively to select unique products for the store. He attracted the attention of Nino Cerutti (b 1930), an Italian textile and clothing manufacturer known for textured fabrics and sophisticated use of color. Armani was hired to design a ready-to-wear wholesale men’s line: Hitman. With a strong sense of style, color, packaging and promotion, but no formal training, Armani succeeded at Hitman for eight years.

Armani’s career shifted to entrepreneur and designer when he met Sergio Galeotti, his business and life partner, in the late 1960s. Both men launched the label Giorgio Armani, SpA on 24 July 1975. Armani was among a group of new Italian designers featured at Barney’s, New York in 1976. He also began cultivating contacts in Hollywood; his involvement in the 1980 film American Gigolo was a significant factor in launching Armani’s fame in a global fashion market. Acknowledging Milan as the chicest place for menswear, Paul Schrader, director of American Gigolo, selected Armani to outfit Richard Gere in his role as the urbane paid escort, Julian Kaye. Critics praised the exciting and original wardrobe of the star of the film, and enthusiasts could concurrently purchase the clothing they had just seen on screen in retail stores. Through this film, Armani’s popularity in the US was established, and afterwards, Saks Fifth Avenue premièred his first collection designed expressly for America. Armani was also the first designer to open an office in Los Angeles expressly to increase his celebrity clientele and his presence at the prestigious Academy Award ceremonies.

Recognizing the importance of the feminist movement, Armani drew inspiration from his mother’s simple, dignified style and his sister Rosanna’s penchant for wearing men’s jackets. Crossing gender boundaries, he used his signature minimalist tailoring techniques, softer textiles and earthy colors to create women’s ‘power suits’ that were also feminine. In 1979 Armani received the distinguished Neiman Marcus Fashion Award for interpreting his catwalk aesthetic for mass consumers worldwide. Hollywood’s most admired leading ladies also chose Armani for red carpet galas, making both his gowns and tuxedos the most sought-after (see fig.).

After the death of Sergio Galeotti in 1985, Armani assumed control of his business, expanding the Armani imprint into a comprehensive lifestyle aesthetic, from spectacles to home furnishings. As an astute and democratic businessman, Armani expanded his brand by launching diffusion lines: Emporio Armani for clothing at a level below couture and A/X for designer denim and casual T-shirts; both offered status dressing to a mass audience. In 2000, Armani’s achievement was recognized with a retrospective exhibition at the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum in New York. One of the most successful global enterprises, Giorgio Armani is a privately held and owner-managed business. Armani’s goal was ‘to find a way to make and wear clothes for a time that was less formal but that still yearned for style’ (exh. cat., p. 254) and he has succeeded in artfully capturing the essence of late 20th and early 21st century clothing desires.