Showing 1348 results

Authority record

Saks Fifth Avenue (New York, N.Y.)

  • 20180214-002
  • Corporate body
  • 1867-

Saks Fifth Avenue was an extension of Andrew Saks' A. Saks & Co. store, which opened in Washington, D.C.'s F Street shopping district in 1867. Horace Saks and Bernard Gimbel came up with "Saks Fifth Avenue" in the early 1900s but it took almost two decades for their creation to come to fruition. The first Saks Fifth Avenue store opened on September 15, 1924, and, as is still the case, sold high-end women's and men's fashions. Adam Gimbel became President of Saks Fifth Avenue in 1926 after the death of Horace Saks. Adam Gimbel was responisble for expanding the brand, setting up stores throughout the country. Gimbel retired in 1969. Affiliates of Investcorp S.A. ("Investcorp") acquired Saks & Company in July 1990. In April 2015, Marc Metrick became president of the company, and five years later, Metrick took on the title of CEO as well.

Gimbel, Sophie, 1898-1981

  • 20190214-001
  • Person
  • 1898-1981

Sophie Gimbel, more well-known as Sophie of Saks, was born Sophie Hass in 1898 in Houston, Texas. She attended Agnes Scott College in Atlanta. In the late 1920s she moved to New York and was hired as a stylist at Saks Fifth Avenue. Shortly thereafter she was asked to re-vamp their foundering custom-order Salon Moderne. She was successful in this endeavor, as well as with her line of ready-to-wear, Sophie Originals. In 1931 she married Adam Gimbel who was president of Saks Fifth Avenue from 1926 to 1969. Sophie did not sketch her designs, rather, she used sketchers to assist with visualizing her ideas, or purchased designs from other designers and modified them. She enjoyed significant success, particularly in the 1940s, and her designs were noted for their elegance. Her clientele included Claudette Colbert, Rose Kennedy, and Mrs. Lyndon B. Johnson who wore a red coat and dress designed by Sophie Gimbel to her husband's inauguration in 1965. Sophie Gimbel retired in 1969 and passed away in 1981.

Simonetta, 1922-

  • 20200124.001
  • Person
  • 1922-2011

Simonetta and Fabiani met in 1950 and married three years later. They each had separate designing careers until 1962 when they opened a salon in Paris named Simonetta e Fabiani. Simonetta was a popular designer known for her flowing capes and beautiful gowns. They both retired from designing in the late sixties.

Fonteyn, Margot, 1919-1991

  • US. 20200418.021
  • Person
  • 1919-1991

Margaret Evelyn de Arias DBE, born Margaret Evelyn Hookham, known by the stage name Margot Fonteyn, was an English ballerina. She spent her entire career as a dancer with the Royal Ballet, eventually being appointed prima ballerina assoluta of the company by Queen Elizabeth II.

Joseph Love, Inc.

  • US.20180626.001
  • Corporate body
  • 1920-

Joseph Love was a prominent childrenswear designer. He opened his business Joseph Love Inc. in 1920 using his Army bonus.

Alexander-Lipman, Pearl

  • US.20180702.001
  • Person
  • unknown

Pearl Levy studied at Cooper Union and the Traphagan School. At the age of twelve she sold her first designs to children’s wear manufacturer Joseph Love, and at seventeen she started her own business. Prior to striking out on her own, Levy was employed as a designer by coat manufacturer Rubin Endler, Inc. In 1930, Levy married Albert Louis “A. L.” Alexander, a police reporter-turned-radio announcer. After her marriage, Levy became known, both personally and professionally, as Pearl Levy Alexander, Pearl L. Alexander, and Pearl Alexander. She eventually married a second time, and by the early 1960s was known as Mrs. Pearl Lipman.

Lopez, Antonio, 1943-1987

  • US.20180702.002
  • Person
  • 1943-1987

"Antonio Lopez was born in 1943, in Utuado, Puerto Rico. He was the son of a couturier, and moved to New York at the age of eight. He studied at the High School of Industrial Art and the Fashion Institute of Technology.
In the early 60's, he worked as a sketch artist on 7th Avenue, until in 1964, he met the designer Charles James, who was to be an enormous influence on him. Antonio worked with James, drawing all the designer's clothes, for a number of years.
With the advent of fashion photography, Vogue magazine used lesser and lesser of the illustrator's art, with the exception only of Antonio, who was almost the only artist to be found in Vogue after 1963, because of the stylistic quality and great verve of his drawings.
In 1969, while on a working trip for Elle Magazine in Paris, he met fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld, who encouraged him to set up a studio in Paris. He did so and became the leader of a group of celebrities.
He established himself as the foremost fashion illustrator on both sides of the Atlantic. It can be said of Antonio that his work helped create a return to the almost forgotten art of fashion illustration in magazines. He exerted a strong influence on many younger artists.
He was the only artist commissioned by fashion magazines with any regularity during the lean years of the 60's and 70's. His was a style completely in tune with the rebellious clothes and free attitudes of the 60's. From the moment they were first published in Women's Wear Daily and the New York Times, Antonio's drawings were much in demand.
He was sought out by designers, stores and magazines around the world. For over 20 years, Antonio remained the most consistently influential fashion illustrator and his career bridges the gap between the 60's and the renaissance of fashion illustration in the 80's.
He died in 1987 at the age of 44."

Autry, Gene, 1907-1998

  • US.20180702.003
  • Person
  • 1907-1998

Orvon Gene Autry was born on September 29th, 1907 in Tioga, Texas. His father was a cattle buyer, farmer, and preacher. Autry learned how to ride horses and play the guitar at a young age. Late in his teens, Autry worked as a telegrapher. His interest in show business began one night while working in Chelsea, Oklahoma. The actor Will Rogers came in to the depot Autry was working in, saw the guitar near the young man, and asked him to play. After hearing Autry, Rogers encouraged him to try to find work on the radio. After being turned down for work in New York, Autry got his first job in radio at a radio station in Tulsa. In 1928, Autry was back in New York but this time to record a song which became successful. This got Autry a contract with Columbia Records. His film career began six years after he cut his first record. Throughout the mid- and late-1930s, Autry's star kept rising. His cowboy persona was well regarded by both kids and adults. From 1938 to 1932, he was one of the top ten box-office draws in the nation. Autry continued to record music and star in films in the 1940s and 1950s, only retiring in 1964 at the age of 57. Gene Autry is perhaps best known as the singer of the original "Rudolf the Rednosed Reindeer," the second best-selling song in history. In addition to his work in the entertainment business, Autry owned a handful of profitable properties. Gene Autry passed away on October 2nd, 1998 at the age of 91.

Block, Kenneth Paul, 1924-2009

  • US.20180702.004
  • Person
  • 1924-2009

Kenneth Paul Block was an American fashion illustrator. He worked as an in-house artist for Fairchild Publications and was featured prominently in their magazines Women's Wear Daily and W. His personal clientele included fashion retailers including Bergdorf-Goodman, Lord &Taylor, and Bonwit-Teller. His long-term life partner was fellow artist and fabric designer Morton Ribyat.

Björk

  • US.20180702.005
  • Person
  • 1965-

Björk is a singer and musician from Reykjavík, Iceland.

Beaton, Cecil, 1904-1980

  • US.20180702.006
  • Person
  • 1904-1980

Sir Cecil Beaton was born in London in 1904. Beaton attended St. John's College, although he never graduated. He signed a contract with Condé Nast to supply Vogue with fashion photographs in 1930. He photographed royalty, movie stars, fashion designs, and cultural elites. His first book, The Book of Beauty, was published in 1930, followed by dozens more which became a platform for him to show off his talent for illustrating. Beaton produced costumes and sets for both stage and screen, winning three academy awards, two for Best Costume Design (Gigi in 1958 and My Fair Lady in 1964) and one for Best Art Direction (My Fair Lady in 1964). Queen Elizabeth II knighted Beaton in 1972.

Barbier, George, 1882-1932

  • US.20180702.007
  • Person
  • 1882-1932

George Barbier was one of the great French illustrators of the early 20th century. Born in Nantes, France October 10, 1882, he was a student of J.P. Laurens at the Beaux-Arts and exhibited at the Salon des Humoristes in 1910 under the name of Edouard William. The following year he began working at the gallery of Boutet de Monvel. From 1912 to his death he regularly figured into Salon des Artistes Décorateurs and was the recipient of many prizes. For the next 20 years Barbier led a group from the École des Beaux Arts whom Vogue nicknamed "The Knights of the Bracelet"—a tribute to their fashionable and flamboyant mannerisms and style of dress. Included in this élite circle were Paul Iribe, Georges Lepape, Charles Martin, and his cousins Bernard Boutet de Monvel and Pierre Brissaud. He contributed to Gazette du Bon Ton, le Jardin des Dames et des Modes, Modes et Manières d'Aujourd'hui, Les Feuillets d'Art, Fémina, Vogue, and Comœdia Illustré. His career also included jewelry, glass, and wallpaper designs. Through the Max Weldy Studios he created a number of décors and costumes for the Folies Bergère and other music halls. He is credited with the costume for Rudolph Valentino in the movie Monsieur Beaucaire. In the mid 1920s he worked with Erté to design sets and costumes. In 1929 he wrote the introduction for Erté's acclaimed exhibition and achieved mainstream popularity through regular appearances in L'Illustration magazine. Barbier was also one of many artists who made a living illustrating limited "editions de luxe," intended to be collectors’ items due to their rarity and high standards of printing. Eagerly collected In France in the teens and twenties these classics and contemporary works were illustrated by leading artists of the day and often bound in lavish, specially designed bindings. Artists such as Guy Arnoux, George Barbier, Leon Benigni, Benito, Brunelleschi, Georges Lepape, Charles Martin, and Andre Marty found a lucrative demand for contributions which brought a considerable amount of prestige. The first book of this kind done by Barbier, in 1913, was an album of drawings of Nijinsky, the dancer, done in his various roles in the Ballets Russes. 1914 saw a similar album of Karsavina. Done mostly in black and white, it is in these that the similarity to Beardsley's style is most evident. After these albums, Barbier seemed to pull away from this style, using more color and less outlining to make his graphic statements. Barbier died in 1932 at the very pinnacle of his success.

One of the great French illustrators of the early 20th century, he was also a designer of theater and ballet costumes, a journalist and writer.
Barbier was born in Nantes, France and moved to Paris to study at the École des Beaux-Arts. There he studied alongside many of the fellow artists and illustrators later dubbed "The Knights of the Bracelet," by Vogue, which included Paul Iribe, Georges Lepape, and Charles Martin. Over the course of his career, he contributed to many popular journals of the day including Gazette du bon ton, Les feuillets d'art, Fémina, Vogue, and Comoedia Illustré. He created set designs and costumes for the Folies Bergère, and worked as an illustrator for artists’ books and “editions de luxe.” Very little documentation of Barbier’s personal life survives today; he died at the pinnacle of his success at the age of 50.

Bankhead, Tallulah, 1902-1968

  • US.20180702.008
  • Person
  • 1902-1968

Tallulah Bankhead (1902 - 1968) was an American stage and screen actress. Known for her outrageous personality, Bankhead won acclaim from both U.S. and European audiences. She began acting in 1918, performing a bit part in a Broadway production. Although a steady stream of roles came to her during her early career, Bankhead was unsatisfied with the tepid response she received from reviewers. She left for London in 1923 and became a box office hit. She appeared in a handful of stage roles, each garnering her praise, until she left for Hollywood to star in her first film, in 1931. Unfortunately, her first few films were flops. Bankhead returned to Broadway in 1933, but could not find success. It wasn't until 1939 when Bankhead starred in The Little Foxes that she won over critics, winning a New York Drama Critics Circle award for her performance. This was to be her last major triumph on the American stage. Bankhead continued acting in films and on stage until her death in 1968.

Baker, Josephine, 1906-1975

  • US.20180702.010
  • Person
  • 1906-1975

The dancer, actress, and activist Josephine Baker was born on June 3, 1906 in St. Louis, Missouri. At the age of 18, she left America and her turbulent childhood behind for Europe. She settled in Paris, quickly becoming the toast of the town after starring in "La Revue Nègre." After a year starring in the revue, Baker became a headline attraction at the Follies Bergère. It was at this famous club that Baker debuted her now-famous banana skirt. Thanks to her success in Paris, Baker was able to perform throughout Europe. The entertainer continued to perform in Parisian revues throughout the 1920s and 1930s. During this time, Baker began acting in movies, becoming one of the first black woman to star in a major motion picture. Her first speaking role was in 1934's Zouzou. In 1936, Baker returned to the U.S. and performed on Broadway in the "Ziegfeld Follies." After appearing on the New York stage, she traveled the U.S. in her own show. Baker returned to Paris, however, and became a French citizen in 1937. During WWII, Baker worked as an intelligence agent, ambulance driver, and entertainer for French troops in North Africa. She was awarded the French Legion of Honor for her service. In the 1950s, Baker began adopting children of different backgrounds. Her and her "rainbow tribe," as she referred to them, lived in Southwestern France. In 1958, she returned to the Parisian stage in an auto-biographical show titled "Paris Mes Amours." Josephine Baker died on April 12, 1975 at the age of 68. Her legacy lives on to this day. Many contemporary fashion designers name her as inspiration for their collections.

Champcommunal, Elspeth

  • US.20180702.011
  • Person
  • 1888-1976

Born Elspeth Mary Hodgson in 1888, Elspeth Champcommunal was a notable socialite in the pre-WWI and interwar European art world. She married the French artist Joseph Champcommunal, who died tragically during the first year of WWI. In 1916, Champcommunal became the first editor of British Vogue. Beginning in the mid-1920s, Champcommunal ran her couture house in Paris. Champcommunal became head of the British operation of Worth in 1936, where she stayed until the mid-1950s. Champcommunal passed away on November 10, 1976.

Chalayan, Hussein, 1970-

  • US.20180702.012
  • Person
  • 1970-

Hussein Chalayan is a Turkish Cypriot-British fashion designer. He started his own Ready-To-Wear fashion line "Hussein Chalayan" in 1994, which was later shortened to "Chalayan" in 2010. He received the Designer of the Year award at the annual British Fashion Awards in 1998, and was voted British Fashion Designer in 2010.

Catalano, Elisabetta

  • US.20180702.013
  • Person
  • 1941-2015

Elisabetta Catalano was an Italian photographer who did work for various publications including L'Espresso, Vogue Italia, and the American, French, and English editions of Vogue.

Carpenter, Mia

  • US.20180702.015
  • Person
  • 1933-

Mia Carpenter was a fashion illustrator working in the mid- to late-20th century. Carpenter was born in California in 1933 and studied at the Art Center College of Design in Los Angeles, graduating in 1956. Her first sketches appeared in Seventeen magazine beginning in 1957. In 1962, Carpenter received an award for advertising from the Society of Illustrators. She started in retail fashion illustration and moved into sketching for entertainment ad agencies when illustration in retail fashion dropped in demand. She later also worked as a sketch artist for the film industry and for numerous agencies in the Hollywood area. She retired in 2004.

Carnegie, Hattie

  • US.20180702.016
  • Person
  • 1889-1956

Hattie Carnegie was born Henrietta Kanengeiser in Vienna, Austria on March 15, 1889. In 1900, she immigrated with her family to the United States where they settled in New York City. She later changed her last name to Carnegie because of its association with wealth. In 1909, she bought a store with Rose Roth called "Carnegie Ladies' Hatter". Carnegie studied Parisian fashion styles which she adapted for her customers. In 1919, she bought Rose Roth's share of the business and Hattie Carnegie, Inc. was born. In 1928, Carnegie introduced her first ready-to-wear line designed by Norman Norell. By 1940, Carnegie had more than 1,000 employees producing her ready-to-wear lines, but her custom shop was the foundation of her reputation. During WWII, Carnegie became a leader in the American Fashion scene where she began to rely on American fabric designers. In the 1950's she continued to make chic and conventional dresses and suits, along with ballgowns that were adapted from French couturiers. she was also known for using a particular shade of blue in many of her garments that became known as "Carnegie blue". Carnegie died in 1956, but her business stayed open under the direction of her husband, John Zanft and employee, Larry Joseph until 1976.

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