Collection SC.242 - Hattie Carnegie Sketches, 1940-1955

Millinery design by Esther Klepper for Hattie Carnegie, Inc.; White Hat with Large Black Satin Bow Millinery design by Esther Klepper for Hattie Carnegie, Inc.; Grey Flat Top Hat with Bows and Flower Black Day Suit with Flared Jacket and Fitted Skirt

Identity area

Reference code

US NNFIT SC.242

Title

Hattie Carnegie Sketches, 1940-1955

Date(s)

  • 1940-1955 (Creation)

Level of description

Collection

Extent and medium

1 oversized box

Context area

Name of creator

Biographical history

Hattie Carnegie was born Henrietta Kanengeiser in Vienna, Austria on March 15, 1889. In 1900, she immigrated with her family to the United States where they settled in New York City. She later changed her last name to Carnegie because of its association with wealth. In 1909, she bought a store with Rose Roth called "Carnegie Ladies' Hatter". Carnegie studied parisian fashion styles which she adapted for her customers. In 1919, she bought Rose Roth's share of the business and Hattie Carnegie, Inc. was born. In 1928, Carnegie introduced her first ready-to-wear line designed by Norman Norell. By 1940, Carnegie had more than 1,000 employees producing her ready-to-wear lines, but her custom shop was the foundation of her reputation. During WWII, Carnegie became a leader in the Amercian Fashion scene where she began to rely on American fabric designers. In the 1950's she continued to make chic and conventional dresses and suits, along with ballgowns that were adapted from French couturiers. she was also known for using a particular shade of blue in many of her garments that became known as "Carnegie blue". Carnegie died in 1956, but her business stayed open under the direction of her husband, John Zanft and employee, Larry Joseph until 1976.

Archival history

This collection was part of the donation to SPARC from The Metropolitan Museum of Art/Costume Institute in 2011. Officially recognized by deed of gift 2013.

Immediate source of acquisition or transfer

Content and structure area

Scope and content

This collection is comprised of fashon sketches made for Hattie Carnegie, Inc. from 1940 - 1955. This collection contains millinery (hats) for which some designs can be attributed to Esther A. Kleeper in 1945. The remainder of the collection is ready-to-wear dresses and suits, along with evening wear, mostly ballgowns, that were adapted from French couturiers for the American woman. The skecthes have been divided into millinery, ready-to-wear, and evening wear. Many of the sketches are not dated, but based upon a survey of the collection and dates of similar physical garments made by Hattie Carnegie, Inc. it is assumed that the sketches are from the aforementioned dates.

Appraisal, destruction and scheduling

permanent

Accruals

System of arrangement

collection series folder

Conditions of access and use area

Conditions governing access

Access is open to researchers by appointment at the Fashion Institute of Technology Library, Department of Special Collections and FIT Archives.

Conditions governing reproduction

The Department of Special Collections and FIT Archives does not own copyright for all material held in its physical custody. It is the researcher's obligation to abide by and satisfy copyright law (http://www.copyright.gov/title17/92chap1.html#108) when copying or using materials (including digital materials) found in or made available from the department. When possible, the department will inform a researcher about the copyright status of material, the researcher's obligations with regard to such material, and, wherever possible, the owner or owners of the copyrights. Any and all reproduction of originals is at the archivist's discretion.

Language of material

  • English

Script of material

Language and script notes

Physical characteristics and technical requirements

Finding aids

Allied materials area

Existence and location of originals

The Library of the Fashion Institute of Technology, Department of Special Collections and FIT Archives, 27th St. at 7th Ave., NY, NY , USA, 10001

Existence and location of copies

Related units of description

Brooklyn Museum Libraries and Archives: Fashion and costume sketch collection: designer files. (4 gown designs for the Duchess of Windsor by Hattie Carnegie, Inc.) FIT Special Collections: Claire McCardell Collection, 1920-1975 Parsons Special Collections: Claire McCardell Skecthes, 1931-1958

Related descriptions

Notes area

Alternative identifier(s)

Access points

Place access points

Name access points

Genre access points

Description control area

Description identifier

Institution identifier

Rules and/or conventions used

Status

Level of detail

Full

Dates of creation revision deletion

Language(s)

  • English

Script(s)

Sources

Accession area