Directional x01 - to locate moved material
Directional folder indicating location where original material can be seen
Directional folder contains 51 black and white photocopies of Coats and Wraps sketches from 1920's. Original sketches are glued in the 1916 scrapbook [SEE--US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.2.1-3 for originals]. Sketches come from Berley Studios (subscription service), signature of Ethel Rabin can be seen on some, but for the most part the Berley Studios imprint is covered by that of Lucile Ltd., in some cases the signature of Ethel Rabin (of Berley Studios) is scratched out or otherwise obscured. They seem to be color phototransfers, not original drawings.
Directional folder to locate moved items
Directional x06 - to locate moved material
Directional folder to locate items which were part of old-US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.1.16 - Box 1
Newspaper articles about Lucile and/or written by Lady Duff Gordon that date as far back as 1910. Some are articles about the company's legal struggle. There are also a couple of articles about another Lady Duff Gordon who was an Egyptian explorer at the time. There is documentation of Lucile's beginnings and rise to fame, and review of the early work.
Article entitled "Studies in Smartness" written by Miss Violet Vanbrugh as well as a Christmas card and a Business card. One program from an exhibition of Gera Mills' fabric used in garments made by Vionnet, Lelong, Patou, Paquin, Cheuir, Premet, Renee, Doucet, Doeuille, and Bernard. 1-Two page spread (pp. 18-21) from the December 22, 1925 issue of Women's Wear Daily; amusements page and a page dedicated to fur fashion, with advertisements and columns about the popular furs of the time.
Programs from Lucile, Ltd. fashion shows from 1913 through 1923 (not a complete run). Programs pasted on the pages of scrapbook are not in chronological order. Garments listed in the programs are numbered and named. Each of these ensembles have a brief description noting clothing type, colors, fabrics, and trimmings. Some are also notated with prices of each garment by hand, suggesting that the program indicating a master copy. Some of the programs do not have the title page indicating the date or season of the line. [Should be verified: Model photographs of four (4) of the lines are part of this collection; Autumn 1916 -US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.7-9 (box#3), Autumn 1917 - US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.10-12 (box#4), Autumn 1919 - US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.18-21 (box#7 & box#8), Spring 1917 - US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.31-35 (box#12 & box#13).] At the end of the folder is a letter from the former staff of Lucile, Ltd. to Lady Duff Gordon, a ticket and invitation to a September 22, 1922 private showing of the Fall and Winter collections designed by Evelyn McHorter for J.M. Gidding & Company, an enterprise that bought Lucile, Ltd. List of programs in order of arrangement: 1. Fall 1913; 2. Spring 1923; 3. Fall 1923 and Fall 1922; 4. Spring 1920 and Spring 1919; 5. Fall 1920; 6. Fall 1919; 7. Spring 1918 and Spring 1917; 8. Fall 1914; 9. Fall 1916 and 1917; 10. 5-leave program with no cover page; 11. 1-leave program with no cover page.
5 sketches of costumes identified as designs for 1921[previously misattributed to 1925] Ziegfeld Follies. Sketches are titled in reference to the period, style, or play personality: "Directorie 1795-1800, "Gothic, "Russian".
7 fashion plates. One leave in mylar, one scrapbook cover with plates glued to it, and three raised profile mounts framing plates. All of these items were removed from their original placement within the scrapbook after disbinding for protection of surrounding materials.
37 fashion plates. Enclosed in a separate portfolio for preservation and easier access: 3 loose fashion plates; a page of the scrapbook with reproductions of one Barbier and one Simeon "Chloe" plates; one page with two plates and fabric ribbon swatch. The rest of the content is in the original order.
44 fashion plates
11 mounted color photocopies of Wedding Dresses
Photocopies of programs from Lucile fashion shows from 1913 through 1923. Ordered is the same as in--US.NNFIT.SC.1.3.5.2, pages of each are clipped together.
2 photocopies of envelopes from Berley Studios in New York City that are notated with "Lady Duff Gordon # 1" and "Lady Duff Gordon Gordon #2".
Photocopies of articles written about Lady Duff Gordon dating as far back as 1910, all of the originals of which are housed in "The Ideal Scrapbook". Among them a photocopy of Women's Wear Daily, Dec. 22, 1925 spread with article on furs.
Photocopies of items missing from "The Ideal Scrapbook" housed in slipcase 15. There are photocopies of covers from programs that are not present in the scrapbook, such as Lucile, Ltd. Fall 1918 and Spring 1915 covers. There are also photocopies of an article entitled "My Diary", a photocopy of a cover of "Les Ides Novelles de la Mode", and a photocopy of an article from February 17, 1918.
Photocopies of most of the articles from the scrapbook in the same box. Not all articles were duplicated to protect against further deterioration of materials.
7 photocopies of articles written by or about Lady Duff Gordon from 1918 through 1919.
19 photocopies of articles by or about Lady Duff Gordon written about fashion from 1918 through 1919.
Photocopies of an article "Studies in Smartness" by Miss Violet Vanbrugh.
92 photographs, models #1-#47; mostly walking suits and coats.
77 photographs, models #48-#92; mostly dresses and gowns.
52 photographs
96 photographs
26 photographs. The scrapbook that this material comes from was titled "McHorter". Evelyn McHorter's was Lucile Ltd. employee under Lady Duff Gordon, and took over the artistic control after Lucile left. These photographs were originally in the scrapbooks of fashion plates. There is no proof of significance of these sketches and Model Photographs being in the same volume, however, it may suggest that the designs were made by Evelyn McHorter, and represent a portfolio of her work.
10 (ten) loose photographs documenting ensembles, each encased in Mylar. There are seven photographs of full ensembles, one of which is mounted on Masonite. The remaining three photographs are of hat designs from 1919.
68 photographs, models #8-#41. There are many numbers missing, including numbers 9-11, 14, 17, 19, 23-25, 34, 36-37, 39-40, 43-44, and 46. Each ensemble is numbered and described, untitled.
10 photographs, numbered and described photographs #42, #45, #47 and #48.
77 photographs. The ensembles documented in this folder are numbered #1-#7, 11, 19, 25, 32, 35, 38, #43 -#65, and #67-#69.
20 Model photographs of outer wear, day-wear, tea gowns and evening wear from 1910s. "Ideal scrapbook" is indicated as the original/previous location on several of these photographs.
8 Model photographs of ensembles from the nineteen-teens. All are encased in Mylar, and two have notation of titles and numbers which correspond with a line from the 1915: "No. 40, 1 Lake Shore Drive'" and "No. 40, 2 'Strictly Business'".
80 photographs, models #1-#37
64 photographs, models #37-#91
51 photographs, models #1-#21
111 photographs, models #22-#74
50 photographs, models #75-#105
14 photographs, models unnumbered
58 photographs, models #1-#24
61 photographs, models #25-#47
48 photographs, models #48-#78
45 photographs, models #33-#47
45 photographs, models #48-#91
78 photographs, models #1-#32
2 photocopies of the scrapbook cover
39 photographs, models #1-#17
36 photographs, models #18-#42
40 photographs, models #43-#69
21 photograph, models #69-#88, contains many fur coat designs
69 photographs, models #1-#44, mostly coats and walking suits; a clipping from 'Town and Country' advertising presentation of the line in a private viewing event; photocopy of a scrapbook cover.
50 photographs, models #45-#73; coats and walking suits end midway through, and dresses and gowns begin
57 photographs, models #73-#112
61 photograph, models #113-#140; some dresses, evening cloaks, wraps, and coats
24 photographs
22 photographs and 2 pages with orders listing prices.
20 photographs
3 photographs. Two of the photographs are dedicated to E. McHortrer; one from Kitty Gordon and another from Bertha Kalich (aka Kalish), both actresses. Third photograph is of famous Irene Castle dedicated to Mr. Tolman.
16 photographs of society women and/or actresses
22 photographs of society women and/or actresses, several large format photographs with scenes and cast