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Photographs, Foreign orders, 1919
US NNFIT SC.1.1.22-24 · sub-series · 1919
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Disbound scrapbook, 66 photographs, Foreign orders 1919, in 3 folders. In US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.23 are two lists/receipts with orders in French Francs. The photographs are taken in the garden with a fountain, trees, some in sunshine, as well as inside the room with large with either large painting in a background or a stage set. Photographic prints themselves are of larger format than usually seen throughout the collection.

Photographs, 1919, f.1of4
US NNFIT SC.1.1.25-28.25 · folder · 1919
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

10 (ten) loose photographs documenting ensembles, each encased in Mylar. There are seven photographs of full ensembles, one of which is mounted on Masonite. The remaining three photographs are of hat designs from 1919.

Sketches, original drawings, circa 1915-1925
US NNFIT SC.1.2.2 · sub-series · 1910s-1920s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

4.6 linear feet - The bulk of original drawings are from early 1920s. This part of the collection has several arrangements, by year, season, or type of clothing - such as Evening Wear, Evening Gowns, Theatrical Wear, Wraps and Coats, Pajamas and Negligees, and Wedding Gowns. 2 volumes document lines by year and season (1916, 1917-1918). Sketches rendered in several distinct styles, by multiple artists. Some illustrations very carefully drawn and colored with great attention to detail (most consistent example 1916 sketches), drawings from later period captivate as much for the style of execution as the subject they portray (Theatrical costume). Loose sketches collected into volumes by clothing type make up the bulk of the subseries (fragments of scrapbooks' cover artwork can be seen in 1.3.6). Drawn on a heavy board in various techniques, predominantly ink, gouache, and watercolor, some accentuated with gold and silver. There are many cases where it is especially difficult to attribute the purpose of the garment, a tea gown or theatrical costume maybe misinterpreted/misattributed, since Lucile designed for themed occasions, theater and revue, where risque outfits were required; evening gowns designed for the stage actresses may have become part of the evening wear collection. Most of the loose sketches have rusty staple marks on them.

Sketches, Wedding Gowns, 1920s, v.72
US NNFIT SC.1.2.2.6-7 · volume · 1920s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Loose 40 sketches, wedding gowns from the 1920s (old-volume 72), in 2 folders Sketches numbered .1 to .40. Executed in a variety of styles by multiple artists that can be recognized throughout the collection, at least seven distinct artists. Mostly unsigned, and undated. One signed Mand T., and one stamped "Lucile Staff Inc. 22 East 56th St."

Directional folder x03
US NNFIT SC.1.2.2.17-20.x03 · folder · 1920s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Directional folder contains 51 black and white photocopies of Coats and Wraps sketches from 1920's. Original sketches are glued in the 1916 scrapbook [SEE--US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.2.1-3 for originals]. Sketches come from Berley Studios (subscription service), signature of Ethel Rabin can be seen on some, but for the most part the Berley Studios imprint is covered by that of Lucile Ltd., in some cases the signature of Ethel Rabin (of Berley Studios) is scratched out or otherwise obscured. They seem to be color phototransfers, not original drawings.

Sketches, Theater costumes and Millinery, 1920s, v.74
US NNFIT SC.1.2.2.31-34 · volume · 1920s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Loose 91 Millinery and Theatrical Wear sketches from 1920's in (old-volume .74) in 4 folders. Three folders contain drawings of theatrical costumes, fourth folder houses sketches of theatrical head-wear. Each sketch is drafted in pencil and painted in gouache. Some sketches have notes pertaining to color, fit, or material, and some are signed by different illustrators or designers associated with Lucile, Ltd.. one of them signed "bob" [Robert Kalloch], W. Ward. Several dated "Lucile 1920" and 1921. In the first folder There are some striking example of Russian themed designs with interpretations of traditional headdress "kokoshnik"; In a sketch .19(?) "onion" shaped domes of Vasilievskyj [St. Basil's] Sobor are drawn in the background. Second folder has several period costumes, and a sketch with caption "Little Old New York" [?for a play in "Follie" with Marion Davies?]

Mixed materials, circa 1915-1925
US NNFIT SC.1.3 · Séries · circa 1915-1925
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

2.3 linear feet - Mixed materials divided into following subseries: 1.3.1 Interior photographs; 1.3.2 Personalities; 1.3.3 Assorted model photographs; 1.3.4 Show programs; 1.3.5 Articles and promotional materials; 1.3.6 Scrapbook covers; 1.3.7 Fashion plates, inspirational materials; Some of these materials are duplicated by photocopy (show programs and articles) when possible please use instead of original material.

Photographs, Personalities, circa 1915-1919
US NNFIT SC.1.3.2.1-3 · sub-sub-series · 1915-1919
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Disbound scrapbook, 41 photographs of society women and/or actresses of theatrical garments. Most of the names that are written on the backs of the photographs or the scrapbook pages are listed here: Kitty Gordon, Eleanor Griffith, Dorothy Dickson, Annette Bade, Pearl White, Kathlyn Martyn, Mes. Philip Hummel, Francine Larrimore, Dorothy Shoemaker, inscription 'Mis Vivian Martin - star of "Just Married" '. Photographs by S.A. Johnston and Joel Feder. Further research is needed to determine the role and prominence of these women in the world of theater or society they were part of. [MOVED in from old-US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.1.16.3 - 3 photographs of actresses - (1) Kitty Gordon and (2) Bertha Kalich (aka Kalish) dedicated to McHorter, and (3) famous Irene Castle dedicated to Mr. Tolman (Manager of Lucile Ltd. of New York)]

Sketches, Assorted, 1910s
US NNFIT SC.1.3.3.3 · folder · 1910s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

4 hand colored Lucile sketches from 1910s +1 fashion plate on verso. These sketches were pasted in a scrapbook among the fashion plates, and were moved here for easier access. They seem to be phototransfers rather than originals.

Ideal Scrapbook, Clippings, f.2of3
US NNFIT SC.1.3.5.1 · folder · 1910s-1925
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Article entitled "Studies in Smartness" written by Miss Violet Vanbrugh as well as a Christmas card and a Business card. One program from an exhibition of Gera Mills' fabric used in garments made by Vionnet, Lelong, Patou, Paquin, Cheuir, Premet, Renee, Doucet, Doeuille, and Bernard. 1-Two page spread (pp. 18-21) from the December 22, 1925 issue of Women's Wear Daily; amusements page and a page dedicated to fur fashion, with advertisements and columns about the popular furs of the time.

Ideal Scrapbook Leaves 9 - 23, f.3of3
US NNFIT SC.1.3.5.2 · folder · 1910s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Newspaper articles about Lucile and/or written by Lady Duff Gordon that date as far back as 1910. Some are articles about the company's legal struggle. There are also a couple of articles about another Lady Duff Gordon who was an Egyptian explorer at the time. There is documentation of Lucile's beginnings and rise to fame, and review of the early work.

Photocopies of Show programs and Articles
US NNFIT SC.1.3.31 · sub-series · 1910-1925
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Photocopies of "The Ideal Scrapbook", the originals of which are housed in Box #30, US.NNFIT.SC.1.3.4 and US.NNFIT.SC.1.5.1-2. This box also contains photocopies of programs and articles of which the originals are missing from "The Ideal Scrapbook".

US NNFIT SC.1.3.copies · folder · 1910s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Photocopies of items missing from "The Ideal Scrapbook" housed in slipcase 15. There are photocopies of covers from programs that are not present in the scrapbook, such as Lucile, Ltd. Fall 1918 and Spring 1915 covers. There are also photocopies of an article entitled "My Diary", a photocopy of a cover of "Les Ides Novelles de la Mode", and a photocopy of an article from February 17, 1918.

Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925
US NNFIT SC.1 · Coleção · 1863-1935

Collection is comprised of model photographs, sketches, photographs of sketches, show programs, some newspaper and magazine clippings with articles about or by Lucile, order forms, advertisements, and fashion plates. Garment designs include theatrical costumes, wedding gowns, day and evening wear, tea gowns, lingerie and pajamas. Bulk of the collection consists of model photographs, fashion sketches, photographs of sketches and official phototransfers. In addition there are clippings of articles from different publications written by or about Lucile, she wrote regular columns for Hearst publications. Programs for the "Model Parades" introducing lines of clothing for several years. There are some photographs of Lucile's clients, and photographs of "Rose room" interiors of Lucile. Ltd from New York and Chicago locations. Inspirational and reference materials collected by Lucile and/or her staff, mainly fashion plates and newspaper clippings from different publications. Dates range from the early 1910s to the mid 1920s. Model photographs were glued in large format (12-14"w to 16-18"h) standard, blank books to order, referred throughout this finding aid as scrapbooks; there are 12 volumes in the collection. Bulk of original drawings that are arranged according to the type of clothing are loose, drawn on a heavy weight board; sketches for 1916 and 197-18 lines were glued into scrapbooks; there are 12 volumes of original drawings and 2 volumes of photographs and phototransfers. It is possible that two types of arrangement seen throughout the collection (most of Model photographs chronologically, most of sketches by type of clothing) are due to different purpose these materials served; sketches of period gowns or theatrical costumes could have been referred to time and time again for different productions or themed social events, whereas model photographs would have documented actual creation of such a garment at a certain point in time. It is also not clear why, but some scrapbooks with model photographs are reproduced in complete entirety, using same photo session materials some fully annotated.

Sem título
Photographs, Fall, 1915, 2 of 2
US NNFIT SC.1.1.3-6 · sub-series · 1915
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Disbound scrapbook 226 photographs, in 4 folders [originally incorrectly titled Autumn 1917]. Ensembles are numbered, titled, and have a description of fabric, colors, type, style, and in many cases notes occasion or purpose (evening gown, day costume, dinner gown etc.) Titles reflect personality or "mood" the garment invokes, for example: "My Part I'll Play", "Electra", "Youth", "Joy", "My little gray dove", Mushroom Velvet Coat. There are many titles that are transliteration of Russian nouns such as "Milochka", "Laska", "Goloubochka", "Pareniok". In 1.1.5 - #91, #92 and #95 are of motor coats, in US. NNFIT.SC.1.1.6 - unnumbered "Newport Bridesmaids Dress" and a wedding gown. Each model is documented with at least 2 photographs showing different views of the ensemble. Some ensembles are missing a photograph of a certain view (e.g. number represented by 4 photographs has 1 missing) - 27, 42, 43, 44, 45, 47, 48, 85, 86, 88, 94, 96, and 100. Album is long on horizontal axis, of poor quality paper, fits 2 photographs next to each other on a single page. [See: --US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.1-2 unannotated]

Photographs, Fall, 1916
US NNFIT SC.1.1.7-9 · sub-series · 1916
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Disbound scrapbook, 170 photographs of autumn models from 1916, in 3 folders. The program for the premier fashion show of this line is available in--US.NNFIT.SC.1.3.4.1. The garments are annotated with a title and one line description for each ensemble, among them "A Song of Songs" and "Are You Prepared", #21 sports costume, #14 "Djer-kiss". Lucile, Ltd. couture houses in London and Paris were grimly affected by the First World War. In contrast, this line highlights opulence present in United States, especially high society of New York and Chicago. Produced the same year as Lady Duff Gordon's ready-to-wear line in collaboration with Sears Roebuck. [See--US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.10-12 for duplicates of this material, note inconsistency in titles (1916-1917 vs 1916)] Photographs taken at the studio

Photographs, Fall, 1919, f.1of4
US NNFIT SC.1.1.18-21.18 · folder · 1919
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

69 photographs, models #1-#44, mostly coats and walking suits; a clipping from 'Town and Country' advertising presentation of the line in a private viewing event; photocopy of a scrapbook cover.

Sketches, phototransfers of, 1910s
US NNFIT SC.1.2.1 · sub-series · 1910s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

0.9 linear foot - phototransfers from 1910s. Volumes that contains this material were named "Old Lucile", some of the sketch photographs are dated 1916 and 1917, sometimes month and day is indicated. "Lucile" or "Lady Duff Gordon" signed occasionally. Some have fabric swatches attached. Sketches are rendered in several distinct styles, by different artists. Some photographs occur more than once. These photographs were pasted within the scrapbook without clear order.

Phototransfers of sketches, 1910s, #1, f.1of4
US NNFIT SC.1.2.1.1-4.1 · folder · 1910s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

12 phototransfers of sketches on two sheets of paper. These phototransfers are glued onto two leaves from a scrapbook, both of which hold three phototransfers per side. The official transfers are embossed with Lucile stamp and bear Lucile's signature and model title such as "No. 46 The Bleeding Heart".

Phototransfers of sketches, 1910s, #2, f.3of3
US NNFIT SC.1.2.1.5-7.7 · folder · 1910s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

81 photographs of sketches and phototransfers. First picture in this folder is of a modeled complete garment, not a sketch. 7 items dated 1916; one of them 16 Jan, another 29 March "Pa[e]trouchka" of the same year. Among the sketches, #55 "Vendeta", #29 "Romance, #24 Jolie, #37 "Today is Sweet".

Sketches, drawings, 1916
US NNFIT SC.1.2.2.1-3 · volume · 1916
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Disbound scrapbook, 182 sketches from 1916, 3 folders in 2 containers. Sketches are named, numbered according to the line(s) sequence(s). Drafted in pencil and painted with gouache, and watercolor. There are 20 unannotated sketches; 62 sketches have fabric swatches. Numbering implies 3 lines. At the end of the 1st folder there are some childrens clothing designs. In the second folder #3 "Brighton South Shore", #40 "Flo, Flo" In addition to these consistently numbered and annotated sketches there are 50 "Coats and Wraps" sketches from mid 1920s, some of these are signed by Ethel Rabin, sketch artist who worked for Berley Studios, a fashion drawing subscription service. These are not original drawings, but reproductions, and pasted randomly on the available pages of this otherwise filled volume. In most of these "out of place" sketches Barely Studios imprint and artist's signature are obliterated (scratched out) or covered up by the imprint of Lucile Limited.

Sketches, drawings, Fall 1917/Spring 1918
US NNFIT SC.1.2.2.4-5 · volume · 1917-1918
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Disbound scrapbook, 63 sketches, from "Sketches of Models Autumn 1917 Spring 1918". Ensembles are named and numbered according to the sequence in the line. Sketches are drafted in pencil, painted in gouache, and detailed in pen, executed by a single artist. 16 of these sketches also have fabric swatches, and 15 are unannotated. In the same year Lucile designed a ready-to-wear clothing line in collaboration with Sears-Roebuck. #1 reads "Where the Shannon River Flows", #12 "El Celosa", #15 "Datura", #28 "Juanita", #48 "The Vanderbilt Cup", #60 "Dixie Land", #63 "Petroushka, #64 "Bobby's Here", #68 "Cupids Dream", #73 "Gena" wedding gown, #74 "Podruga" bridesmaids gown.