8 Model photographs of ensembles from the nineteen-teens. All are encased in Mylar, and two have notation of titles and numbers which correspond with a line from the 1915: "No. 40, 1 Lake Shore Drive'" and "No. 40, 2 'Strictly Business'".
20 Model photographs of outer wear, day-wear, tea gowns and evening wear from 1910s. "Ideal scrapbook" is indicated as the original/previous location on several of these photographs.
Directional folder contains 51 black and white photocopies of Coats and Wraps sketches from 1920's. Original sketches are glued in the 1916 scrapbook [SEE--US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.2.1-3 for originals]. Sketches come from Berley Studios (subscription service), signature of Ethel Rabin can be seen on some, but for the most part the Berley Studios imprint is covered by that of Lucile Ltd., in some cases the signature of Ethel Rabin (of Berley Studios) is scratched out or otherwise obscured. They seem to be color phototransfers, not original drawings.
Photocopies of items missing from "The Ideal Scrapbook" housed in slipcase 15. There are photocopies of covers from programs that are not present in the scrapbook, such as Lucile, Ltd. Fall 1918 and Spring 1915 covers. There are also photocopies of an article entitled "My Diary", a photocopy of a cover of "Les Ides Novelles de la Mode", and a photocopy of an article from February 17, 1918.
Programs from Lucile, Ltd. fashion shows from 1913 through 1923 (not a complete run). Programs pasted on the pages of scrapbook are not in chronological order. Garments listed in the programs are numbered and named. Each of these ensembles have a brief description noting clothing type, colors, fabrics, and trimmings. Some are also notated with prices of each garment by hand, suggesting that the program indicating a master copy. Some of the programs do not have the title page indicating the date or season of the line. [Should be verified: Model photographs of four (4) of the lines are part of this collection; Autumn 1916 -US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.7-9 (box#3), Autumn 1917 - US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.10-12 (box#4), Autumn 1919 - US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.18-21 (box#7 & box#8), Spring 1917 - US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.31-35 (box#12 & box#13).] At the end of the folder is a letter from the former staff of Lucile, Ltd. to Lady Duff Gordon, a ticket and invitation to a September 22, 1922 private showing of the Fall and Winter collections designed by Evelyn McHorter for J.M. Gidding & Company, an enterprise that bought Lucile, Ltd. List of programs in order of arrangement: 1. Fall 1913; 2. Spring 1923; 3. Fall 1923 and Fall 1922; 4. Spring 1920 and Spring 1919; 5. Fall 1920; 6. Fall 1919; 7. Spring 1918 and Spring 1917; 8. Fall 1914; 9. Fall 1916 and 1917; 10. 5-leave program with no cover page; 11. 1-leave program with no cover page.
Fragment of scrapbook cover
Fragment of scrapbook cover
Fragment of scrapbook cover
Fragment of scrapbook cover
Fragment of scrapbook cover
Photocopies of most of the articles from the scrapbook in the same box. Not all articles were duplicated to protect against further deterioration of materials.
Photocopies of articles written about Lady Duff Gordon dating as far back as 1910, all of the originals of which are housed in "The Ideal Scrapbook". Among them a photocopy of Women's Wear Daily, Dec. 22, 1925 spread with article on furs.
4 hand colored Lucile sketches from 1910s +1 fashion plate on verso. These sketches were pasted in a scrapbook among the fashion plates, and were moved here for easier access. They seem to be phototransfers rather than originals.
37 fashion plates. Enclosed in a separate portfolio for preservation and easier access: 3 loose fashion plates; a page of the scrapbook with reproductions of one Barbier and one Simeon "Chloe" plates; one page with two plates and fabric ribbon swatch. The rest of the content is in the original order.
7 fashion plates. One leave in mylar, one scrapbook cover with plates glued to it, and three raised profile mounts framing plates. All of these items were removed from their original placement within the scrapbook after disbinding for protection of surrounding materials.
44 fashion plates
24 sketches .41-.64 in volume .73, Negligees and Pajamas.
40 sketches .1-.40 in Volume .73, Negligees and Pajamas. Numbers .2 and .7 have fabric swatches attached. One phototransfer .109 "Psyche".
92 photographs, models #1-#47; mostly walking suits and coats.
Article entitled "Studies in Smartness" written by Miss Violet Vanbrugh as well as a Christmas card and a Business card. One program from an exhibition of Gera Mills' fabric used in garments made by Vionnet, Lelong, Patou, Paquin, Cheuir, Premet, Renee, Doucet, Doeuille, and Bernard. 1-Two page spread (pp. 18-21) from the December 22, 1925 issue of Women's Wear Daily; amusements page and a page dedicated to fur fashion, with advertisements and columns about the popular furs of the time.
5 sketches of costumes identified as designs for 1921[previously misattributed to 1925] Ziegfeld Follies. Sketches are titled in reference to the period, style, or play personality: "Directorie 1795-1800, "Gothic, "Russian".
81 photographs of sketches and phototransfers. First picture in this folder is of a modeled complete garment, not a sketch. 7 items dated 1916; one of them 16 Jan, another 29 March "Pa[e]trouchka" of the same year. Among the sketches, #55 "Vendeta", #29 "Romance, #24 Jolie, #37 "Today is Sweet".
2 photocopies of envelopes from Berley Studios in New York City that are notated with "Lady Duff Gordon # 1" and "Lady Duff Gordon Gordon #2".
11 mounted color photocopies of Wedding Dresses
Directional folder to locate moved items
Photocopies of programs from Lucile fashion shows from 1913 through 1923. Ordered is the same as in--US.NNFIT.SC.1.3.5.2, pages of each are clipped together.
Directional folder to locate items which were part of old-US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.1.16 - Box 1
19 photocopies of articles by or about Lady Duff Gordon written about fashion from 1918 through 1919.
7 photocopies of articles written by or about Lady Duff Gordon from 1918 through 1919.
Newspaper articles about Lucile and/or written by Lady Duff Gordon that date as far back as 1910. Some are articles about the company's legal struggle. There are also a couple of articles about another Lady Duff Gordon who was an Egyptian explorer at the time. There is documentation of Lucile's beginnings and rise to fame, and review of the early work.
Photocopies of an article "Studies in Smartness" by Miss Violet Vanbrugh.
22 photographs of society women and/or actresses, several large format photographs with scenes and cast
16 photographs of society women and/or actresses
3 photographs. Two of the photographs are dedicated to E. McHortrer; one from Kitty Gordon and another from Bertha Kalich (aka Kalish), both actresses. Third photograph is of famous Irene Castle dedicated to Mr. Tolman.
15 sketches .61-.75 in Volume .74, Theatrical Costumes.
16 sketches .1-.16 in Volume .74, [has to be renumbered] Theatrical Costumes. This folder contains sketches of theatrical head-wear. Designs of hats, caps, bonnets, and headbands are interspersed with designs of other garments.
30 sketches .31-.60 in Volume .74, Theatrical Costumes.
30 sketches .1-.30 in Volume .74, Theatrical Costumes.
3 pencil and gouache sketches of evening wear from the 1920s.
30 sketches .1-.30 in Volume .77
35 sketches .31-.65 in Volume .77
9 unmarked sketches from 1920s Evening Gowns, and 3 sketches displayed in 'The Artful Line'.
26 sketches .31-.55 in volume .76.
30 sketches .1-.30, volume .76.
17 sketches .56-.72 of volume .76.
9 theatrical costume sketches by Lucile from 1921, five of which are annotated with names. These names are: "Sharrah" (two sketches have this name) ; "Louis XIV"; "Venetian"; and "Venice". All of these sketches were drafted in pencil and painted with gouache. There are two sketches of a theatrical headdress. old-US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.1.16.4 - sketch of female head drawn in pencil, wearing a tall semi-bell crown hat (type of a top hat) with an adornment. Hat is painted in gold. Adornment is a half-opened fan shape, sea-green with magenta triangle in the center.
16 sketches .76 - .91. of coats and wraps.
8 unnumbered sketches of evening wear consolidated from 2 folders. Sketches are drafted in pencil, painted in gouache, detailed in pen, and protected by mylar.
24 sketches .51 - .75 of coats and wraps. Sketches numbered .57, .58, and .72 are missing from this location.
Directional folder indicating location where original material can be seen
26 sketches .26 - .50 of coats and wraps. .34, .43, and .50 are missing from this location.
25 sketches .1 - .25 of coats and wraps
25 sketches .26-.50 of theatrical costumes, volume .74
25 sketches .1-.25, volume .74
7 unannotated sketches
25 sketches .26-.50 of volume 71
30 sketches .51-.80. of volume 71
30 sketches .81-.110 of volume 71
26 sketches .1-.25 +1. unnumbered, volume 71
15 sketches .26-40. volume 72. All sketches are encased in Mylar sleeves.