Affichage de 164 résultats

Description archivistique
9 résultats avec objets numériques Afficher les résultats avec des objets numériques
Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925
US NNFIT SC.1 · Collection · 1863-1935

Collection is comprised of model photographs, sketches, photographs of sketches, show programs, some newspaper and magazine clippings with articles about or by Lucile, order forms, advertisements, and fashion plates. Garment designs include theatrical costumes, wedding gowns, day and evening wear, tea gowns, lingerie and pajamas. Bulk of the collection consists of model photographs, fashion sketches, photographs of sketches and official phototransfers. In addition there are clippings of articles from different publications written by or about Lucile, she wrote regular columns for Hearst publications. Programs for the "Model Parades" introducing lines of clothing for several years. There are some photographs of Lucile's clients, and photographs of "Rose room" interiors of Lucile. Ltd from New York and Chicago locations. Inspirational and reference materials collected by Lucile and/or her staff, mainly fashion plates and newspaper clippings from different publications. Dates range from the early 1910s to the mid 1920s. Model photographs were glued in large format (12-14"w to 16-18"h) standard, blank books to order, referred throughout this finding aid as scrapbooks; there are 12 volumes in the collection. Bulk of original drawings that are arranged according to the type of clothing are loose, drawn on a heavy weight board; sketches for 1916 and 197-18 lines were glued into scrapbooks; there are 12 volumes of original drawings and 2 volumes of photographs and phototransfers. It is possible that two types of arrangement seen throughout the collection (most of Model photographs chronologically, most of sketches by type of clothing) are due to different purpose these materials served; sketches of period gowns or theatrical costumes could have been referred to time and time again for different productions or themed social events, whereas model photographs would have documented actual creation of such a garment at a certain point in time. It is also not clear why, but some scrapbooks with model photographs are reproduced in complete entirety, using same photo session materials some fully annotated.

Sans titre
Ideal Scrapbook, Clippings, f.2of3
US NNFIT SC.1.3.5.1 · folder · 1910s-1925
Fait partie de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Article entitled "Studies in Smartness" written by Miss Violet Vanbrugh as well as a Christmas card and a Business card. One program from an exhibition of Gera Mills' fabric used in garments made by Vionnet, Lelong, Patou, Paquin, Cheuir, Premet, Renee, Doucet, Doeuille, and Bernard. 1-Two page spread (pp. 18-21) from the December 22, 1925 issue of Women's Wear Daily; amusements page and a page dedicated to fur fashion, with advertisements and columns about the popular furs of the time.

US NNFIT SC.1.3.31 · sub-series · 1910-1925
Fait partie de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Photocopies of "The Ideal Scrapbook", the originals of which are housed in Box #30, US.NNFIT.SC.1.3.4 and US.NNFIT.SC.1.5.1-2. This box also contains photocopies of programs and articles of which the originals are missing from "The Ideal Scrapbook".

US NNFIT SC.1.3.copies · folder · 1910s
Fait partie de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Photocopies of items missing from "The Ideal Scrapbook" housed in slipcase 15. There are photocopies of covers from programs that are not present in the scrapbook, such as Lucile, Ltd. Fall 1918 and Spring 1915 covers. There are also photocopies of an article entitled "My Diary", a photocopy of a cover of "Les Ides Novelles de la Mode", and a photocopy of an article from February 17, 1918.

Photographs, Private Collection, 1910s
US NNFIT SC.1.1.31-25 · sub-series · 1910s
Fait partie de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Disbound scrapbook, 252 photographs from Private Collection 1910s, 5 folders in 2 containers. Annotated, each ensemble is titled and described. For example: "Don't Go Away", "Young ladies blue leisure coat and white leisure skirt". Photography by T. Fall and Burke Atwell; the surroundings are not obscured, photographed outside and indoors. The program for the premier fashion show of this line is available in--US.NNFIT.SC.1.3.4.1

Photographs, 1910s, #1
US NNFIT SC.1.1.29-30 · sub-series · 1910s
Fait partie de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Disbound scrapbook, 167 photographs of unannotated garments. Designed by Lucile, Ltd. between mid-1910s to 1919. A disbound scrapbook. The range in garments photographed includes wool travelling suits, frothy formal gowns, exotic orientalist designs, and fur winter wear. This album shows the scope of Lucile's work, and highlights the variation within her ever-romantic vision that spanned over two decades. This particular volume has some interesting examples of shape, cut and draping, few rectangular/straight silhouettes; also of note is the older woman modeling some ensembles - #32, #34, #35, #36, #43, #66. Photography by Joel Feder.

Photographs, 1910s, #2, f.3of3
US NNFIT SC.1.1.36-38.38 · folder · 1910s
Fait partie de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

26 photographs. The scrapbook that this material comes from was titled "McHorter". Evelyn McHorter's was Lucile Ltd. employee under Lady Duff Gordon, and took over the artistic control after Lucile left. These photographs were originally in the scrapbooks of fashion plates. There is no proof of significance of these sketches and Model Photographs being in the same volume, however, it may suggest that the designs were made by Evelyn McHorter, and represent a portfolio of her work.

US NNFIT SC.1.3.30 · volume · 1910-1925
Fait partie de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Covering a range of dates from 1910 to 1922, this collection of newspaper clippings chronicles Lucile, Ltd as an enterprise and Lady Duff Gordon as a societal figure in the press and through the programs to her fashion shows. Kept in its original order, in three folders.

Ideal Scrapbook, Show Programs, f.1of3
US NNFIT SC.1.3.4 · folder · 1913-1923
Fait partie de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Programs from Lucile, Ltd. fashion shows from 1913 through 1923 (not a complete run). Programs pasted on the pages of scrapbook are not in chronological order. Garments listed in the programs are numbered and named. Each of these ensembles have a brief description noting clothing type, colors, fabrics, and trimmings. Some are also notated with prices of each garment by hand, suggesting that the program indicating a master copy. Some of the programs do not have the title page indicating the date or season of the line. [Should be verified: Model photographs of four (4) of the lines are part of this collection; Autumn 1916 -US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.7-9 (box#3), Autumn 1917 - US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.10-12 (box#4), Autumn 1919 - US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.18-21 (box#7 & box#8), Spring 1917 - US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.31-35 (box#12 & box#13).] At the end of the folder is a letter from the former staff of Lucile, Ltd. to Lady Duff Gordon, a ticket and invitation to a September 22, 1922 private showing of the Fall and Winter collections designed by Evelyn McHorter for J.M. Gidding & Company, an enterprise that bought Lucile, Ltd. List of programs in order of arrangement: 1. Fall 1913; 2. Spring 1923; 3. Fall 1923 and Fall 1922; 4. Spring 1920 and Spring 1919; 5. Fall 1920; 6. Fall 1919; 7. Spring 1918 and Spring 1917; 8. Fall 1914; 9. Fall 1916 and 1917; 10. 5-leave program with no cover page; 11. 1-leave program with no cover page.

US NNFIT SC.1.2.2 · sub-series · 1910s-1920s
Fait partie de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

4.6 linear feet - The bulk of original drawings are from early 1920s. This part of the collection has several arrangements, by year, season, or type of clothing - such as Evening Wear, Evening Gowns, Theatrical Wear, Wraps and Coats, Pajamas and Negligees, and Wedding Gowns. 2 volumes document lines by year and season (1916, 1917-1918). Sketches rendered in several distinct styles, by multiple artists. Some illustrations very carefully drawn and colored with great attention to detail (most consistent example 1916 sketches), drawings from later period captivate as much for the style of execution as the subject they portray (Theatrical costume). Loose sketches collected into volumes by clothing type make up the bulk of the subseries (fragments of scrapbooks' cover artwork can be seen in 1.3.6). Drawn on a heavy board in various techniques, predominantly ink, gouache, and watercolor, some accentuated with gold and silver. There are many cases where it is especially difficult to attribute the purpose of the garment, a tea gown or theatrical costume maybe misinterpreted/misattributed, since Lucile designed for themed occasions, theater and revue, where risque outfits were required; evening gowns designed for the stage actresses may have become part of the evening wear collection. Most of the loose sketches have rusty staple marks on them.

Mixed materials, circa 1915-1925
US NNFIT SC.1.3 · Série organique · circa 1915-1925
Fait partie de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

2.3 linear feet - Mixed materials divided into following subseries: 1.3.1 Interior photographs; 1.3.2 Personalities; 1.3.3 Assorted model photographs; 1.3.4 Show programs; 1.3.5 Articles and promotional materials; 1.3.6 Scrapbook covers; 1.3.7 Fashion plates, inspirational materials; Some of these materials are duplicated by photocopy (show programs and articles) when possible please use instead of original material.

US NNFIT SC.1.3.2.1-3 · sub-sub-series · 1915-1919
Fait partie de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Disbound scrapbook, 41 photographs of society women and/or actresses of theatrical garments. Most of the names that are written on the backs of the photographs or the scrapbook pages are listed here: Kitty Gordon, Eleanor Griffith, Dorothy Dickson, Annette Bade, Pearl White, Kathlyn Martyn, Mes. Philip Hummel, Francine Larrimore, Dorothy Shoemaker, inscription 'Mis Vivian Martin - star of "Just Married" '. Photographs by S.A. Johnston and Joel Feder. Further research is needed to determine the role and prominence of these women in the world of theater or society they were part of. [MOVED in from old-US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.1.16.3 - 3 photographs of actresses - (1) Kitty Gordon and (2) Bertha Kalich (aka Kalish) dedicated to McHorter, and (3) famous Irene Castle dedicated to Mr. Tolman (Manager of Lucile Ltd. of New York)]

Sketches, Assorted, 1910s
US NNFIT SC.1.3.3.3 · folder · 1910s
Fait partie de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

4 hand colored Lucile sketches from 1910s +1 fashion plate on verso. These sketches were pasted in a scrapbook among the fashion plates, and were moved here for easier access. They seem to be phototransfers rather than originals.

Sketches, phototransfers of, 1910s
US NNFIT SC.1.2.1 · sub-series · 1910s
Fait partie de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

0.9 linear foot - phototransfers from 1910s. Volumes that contains this material were named "Old Lucile", some of the sketch photographs are dated 1916 and 1917, sometimes month and day is indicated. "Lucile" or "Lady Duff Gordon" signed occasionally. Some have fabric swatches attached. Sketches are rendered in several distinct styles, by different artists. Some photographs occur more than once. These photographs were pasted within the scrapbook without clear order.

US NNFIT SC.1.2.1.1-4.1 · folder · 1910s
Fait partie de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

12 phototransfers of sketches on two sheets of paper. These phototransfers are glued onto two leaves from a scrapbook, both of which hold three phototransfers per side. The official transfers are embossed with Lucile stamp and bear Lucile's signature and model title such as "No. 46 The Bleeding Heart".

US NNFIT SC.1.2.1.5-7.7 · folder · 1910s
Fait partie de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

81 photographs of sketches and phototransfers. First picture in this folder is of a modeled complete garment, not a sketch. 7 items dated 1916; one of them 16 Jan, another 29 March "Pa[e]trouchka" of the same year. Among the sketches, #55 "Vendeta", #29 "Romance, #24 Jolie, #37 "Today is Sweet".

Model photographs, 1915-1919
US NNFIT SC.1.1 · Série organique · 1915-1919
Fait partie de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

5.5 linear feet - Model photographs series of the collection include documents Lucile Ltd. lines for 1915, 1916, 1917 and 1919 (not all seasons). Some of the lines are annotated with model titles, listing of fabrics and fabric swatches. In some instances a name of the customer or a price is jotted down. Most often there are multiple takes of the model showing front, back, and side views providing complete presentation of a costume. Some volumes repeat in almost complete entirety, (reasons unknown). Some of the annotations are written in careful script, with ruled lines for uniformity of the letter height, and pasted on a heavier board. Women in these photographs are mostly girls hired to model for Lucile Ltd., however there are some photographs of well known theater and film personalities (See series 1.3.2). Lady Duff Gordon was the first one to have specialized events called "Mannequin Parades" for showing clothes on beautiful women in staged settings, a precursor to today's runway fashion shows. In the collection clothes are modeled by models whose full names were not lost to history: Dolores (Kathleen Mary Rose [married name Willkinson]), Phyllis (Phyllis Francatelli), Dinarzade (Lillian Mulligan [married name Farley] in some sources identified as Lillian Fisher, or Petra Clive), Hebe (Constance Vasselier); as well as those known by only trade names - Arjamand, Melisande, Gamela, Corisande and others. Among photographers listed separately as contributors are, Joel Feder, T. Fall, Burke Atwell (Lucile Studio?), White Studio 1546 Broadway

US NNFIT SC.1.2.1.5-7.6 · folder · 1910s
Fait partie de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

70 photographs of sketches and phototransfers, few items dated 1916, one 25 March, 1916. There are few photographs where the binding or an original sketch being pinned can be seen. Among the models "#48 "Venetia, #61 "Fair as Eve", #14 "Leap Gear", #69 "Sweet Lyra"

Phototransfers of sketches, 1910s, #1
US NNFIT SC.1.2.1.1-4 · sub-sub-series · 1910s
Fait partie de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

From 2 disbound scrapbooks, 211 phototransfers of sketches. Both of the scrapbooks were from from mid 1910's. Items in folders 1 and 2 are original to this location: 128 photographs of sketches, 10 official Lucile phototransfers of sketches, and a Christmas card illustrated with a Lucile sketch. Some prints occur repeatedly. Those dated are from 1916, some have prices. Phototransfers bare embossed Lucile, Ltd. Paris stamp. There is also a Christmas card from 1909

Phototransfers of sketches, 1910s, #2
US NNFIT SC.1.2.1.5-7 · sub-sub-series · 1910s
Fait partie de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Disbound scrapbook, 211 photographs of early [Old Lucile] sketches and 30 official Lucile phototransfers of sketches in 3 folders. In the enclosing slipcase is a folder with a loose photograph of a sketch. First sketch is a drawing of an evening gown designed by Lucile and photo-transferred onto glossy paper. Second sketch is for an evening gown, drafted in pencil and painted with gouache on transparent paper. Some of the items in this scrapbook have fabric swatches attached, and marks where the ones lost were glued. Among models: #67 "Celendine", #54 "Yussef", most of the titles appear of official phototransfers. Many items dated 1916, some with more precise dates. In the last folder US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.1.7 first picture is of a modeled complete garment, not a sketch.

US NNFIT SC.1.3.3.2 · folder · 1910s
Fait partie de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

8 Model photographs of ensembles from the nineteen-teens. All are encased in Mylar, and two have notation of titles and numbers which correspond with a line from the 1915: "No. 40, 1 Lake Shore Drive'" and "No. 40, 2 'Strictly Business'".

US NNFIT SC.1.2 · Série organique · 1915-1920s
Fait partie de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

5.5 linear feet - Sketches series are divided into following subseries: 1.2.1 phototransfers and photographs of sketches; 1.2.2 Original drawings. Descriptions with specific details regarding form and content are provided with subseries, and volume or folder level descriptions. Authorship of the sketches is hard to determine, at least 7 distinct artists' work appears repeatedly throughout the collection. Stylistically they vary greatly, from very precise drawing and color application, to much looser line and dabs of color. Some of the figure drawings indicate classic training, in other instances figure appears stiff, faces cartoonish, yet other artists favor stylized figure. There are differences in color application as well, ranging from masterful technique in watercolor for transparent and light fabrics accentuated with gouache for effect of raised texture or embroidery, to carefully applied opaque, flat, vibrant color with incredibly detailed textile pattern or texture. Bulk of the sketches are not signed, those that are signed rarely were signed in full; among those - Louise Schabacker, Mary Keene, Marie Cook, Ethel Rabin (reproductions of sketches mid-to-late 1920s); other artists supplied initials, abbreviation, or pictogram, in some instances only first or only last name - Bob (possibly Robert Kalloch), Alison, Dorothy, Barker (Shirley Barker), Mand T. (or Mond T.) W. Ward. In some cases name is too difficult to decipher for example - "Albalverton" has been signed in few different ways, and most likely deciphered incorrectly. Many times sketches are signed "Lucile", but that name was signed by many, in variety of styles, and could mean among other things: sign of intellectual and/or physical ownership of the Lucile, Ltd., or a sign of approval by lead designer. Items --US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.2.6-34 are sketches arranged by the type of clothing; although rarely dated, those dated are from 1920, 1921, and 1922, some of the material might predate or be of later dates than indicated. For years 1916, 1917-1918 see US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.2.1-5

Photographs, Fall, 1916/Spring, 1917
US NNFIT SC.1.1.10-12 · sub-series · 1916-1917
Fait partie de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Disbound scrapbook, (79 leaves?) (168 photographs?) from the autumn 1916 and spring 1917 lines, in 3 folders. Garments are fully annotated, includes title, number, and short description noting colors and/or fabrics. The program for the premier fashion show of this line is available in--US.NNFIT.SC.1.3.4.1 Each number worn by the model has two to four photographs of the garments from different angles. Many designs of oriental influence, especially tea gowns such as #14 "Djer-kiss" Persian, #11 "Tuan", and evening wear - #47 "Bilitis" evening gown, #28 "Salambo" opera coat. Missing is ensemble #5; ensemble #45 is fully described but has no photographs and a note "not designed". 1 item previously in a separate folder was moved into first folder - #33. Album is of heavier, gray color paper, fits 2 photographs next to each other on a single page. [See: --US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.7-9 for duplicated material, note the inconsistency in titles (1916-1917 vs 1916)] Photographs by Feder, Joel

US NNFIT SC.1.2.2.4-5 · volume · 1917-1918
Fait partie de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Disbound scrapbook, 63 sketches, from "Sketches of Models Autumn 1917 Spring 1918". Ensembles are named and numbered according to the sequence in the line. Sketches are drafted in pencil, painted in gouache, and detailed in pen, executed by a single artist. 16 of these sketches also have fabric swatches, and 15 are unannotated. In the same year Lucile designed a ready-to-wear clothing line in collaboration with Sears-Roebuck. #1 reads "Where the Shannon River Flows", #12 "El Celosa", #15 "Datura", #28 "Juanita", #48 "The Vanderbilt Cup", #60 "Dixie Land", #63 "Petroushka, #64 "Bobby's Here", #68 "Cupids Dream", #73 "Gena" wedding gown, #74 "Podruga" bridesmaids gown.

US NNFIT SC.1.3.box#32 · sub-series · 1918-1925
Fait partie de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Bound scrapbook with articles written by Lady Duff Gordon or about Lucile, Ltd. from 1919, and 4 folder of photocopies of these articles to protect against further deterioration. Articles are the product of a clipping service with multiple copies of the same few articles from different publications.

Sketches, Wedding Gowns, 1920s, v.72
US NNFIT SC.1.2.2.6-7 · volume · 1920s
Fait partie de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Loose 40 sketches, wedding gowns from the 1920s (old-volume 72), in 2 folders Sketches numbered .1 to .40. Executed in a variety of styles by multiple artists that can be recognized throughout the collection, at least seven distinct artists. Mostly unsigned, and undated. One signed Mand T., and one stamped "Lucile Staff Inc. 22 East 56th St."