0.1 linear foot - Assorted model photographs and sketches
Bound scrapbook with articles written by Lady Duff Gordon or about Lucile, Ltd. from 1919, and 4 folder of photocopies of these articles to protect against further deterioration. Articles are the product of a clipping service with multiple copies of the same few articles from different publications.
Bound scrapbook, 90 leaves
Directional folder contains 51 black and white photocopies of Coats and Wraps sketches from 1920's. Original sketches are glued in the 1916 scrapbook [SEE--US.NNFIT.SC.18.104.22.168-3 for originals]. Sketches come from Berley Studios (subscription service), signature of Ethel Rabin can be seen on some, but for the most part the Berley Studios imprint is covered by that of Lucile Ltd., in some cases the signature of Ethel Rabin (of Berley Studios) is scratched out or otherwise obscured. They seem to be color phototransfers, not original drawings.
0.9 linear foot - Fashion plates and inspirational materials not created by Lucile or Lucile Ltd. staff. One scrapbook of newspaper clippings illustrating fashion, one scrapbook of fashion plates.
Newspaper articles about Lucile and/or written by Lady Duff Gordon that date as far back as 1910. Some are articles about the company's legal struggle. There are also a couple of articles about another Lady Duff Gordon who was an Egyptian explorer at the time. There is documentation of Lucile's beginnings and rise to fame, and review of the early work.
Article entitled "Studies in Smartness" written by Miss Violet Vanbrugh as well as a Christmas card and a Business card. One program from an exhibition of Gera Mills' fabric used in garments made by Vionnet, Lelong, Patou, Paquin, Cheuir, Premet, Renee, Doucet, Doeuille, and Bernard. 1-Two page spread (pp. 18-21) from the December 22, 1925 issue of Women's Wear Daily; amusements page and a page dedicated to fur fashion, with advertisements and columns about the popular furs of the time.
Programs from Lucile, Ltd. fashion shows from 1913 through 1923 (not a complete run). Programs pasted on the pages of scrapbook are not in chronological order. Garments listed in the programs are numbered and named. Each of these ensembles have a brief description noting clothing type, colors, fabrics, and trimmings. Some are also notated with prices of each garment by hand, suggesting that the program indicating a master copy. Some of the programs do not have the title page indicating the date or season of the line. [Should be verified: Model photographs of four (4) of the lines are part of this collection; Autumn 1916 -US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.7-9 (box#3), Autumn 1917 - US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.10-12 (box#4), Autumn 1919 - US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.18-21 (box#7 & box#8), Spring 1917 - US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.31-35 (box#12 & box#13).] At the end of the folder is a letter from the former staff of Lucile, Ltd. to Lady Duff Gordon, a ticket and invitation to a September 22, 1922 private showing of the Fall and Winter collections designed by Evelyn McHorter for J.M. Gidding & Company, an enterprise that bought Lucile, Ltd. List of programs in order of arrangement: 1. Fall 1913; 2. Spring 1923; 3. Fall 1923 and Fall 1922; 4. Spring 1920 and Spring 1919; 5. Fall 1920; 6. Fall 1919; 7. Spring 1918 and Spring 1917; 8. Fall 1914; 9. Fall 1916 and 1917; 10. 5-leave program with no cover page; 11. 1-leave program with no cover page.
Covering a range of dates from 1910 to 1922, this collection of newspaper clippings chronicles Lucile, Ltd as an enterprise and Lady Duff Gordon as a societal figure in the press and through the programs to her fashion shows. Kept in its original order, in three folders.
5 sketches of costumes identified as designs for 1921[previously misattributed to 1925] Ziegfeld Follies. Sketches are titled in reference to the period, style, or play personality: "Directorie 1795-1800, "Gothic, "Russian".
85 fashion plates from a disbound scrapbook. Fashion plates are prints of engravings dating as far back as 1811. Some are very carefully colored, as if by someone with vision problems. The scrapbook was titled "McHorter"; Evelyn McHorter was Lucile Ltd. employee under Lady Duff Gordon, and took over the artistic control after Lucile left. [25 Model photographs and 4 Lucile sketches were moved to a different parts of the collection, please see the Archivist Note 2 for new location]
7 fashion plates. One leave in mylar, one scrapbook cover with plates glued to it, and three raised profile mounts framing plates. All of these items were removed from their original placement within the scrapbook after disbinding for protection of surrounding materials.
37 fashion plates. Enclosed in a separate portfolio for preservation and easier access: 3 loose fashion plates; a page of the scrapbook with reproductions of one Barbier and one Simeon "Chloe" plates; one page with two plates and fabric ribbon swatch. The rest of the content is in the original order.
44 fashion plates
Box #34 - Bound scrapbook of 484 newspaper and magazine clippings of costume sketches. Gathered to about 15 to a page, these clippings are collaged in the book. None of the sketches related to a Lucile design. Some of the cut outs have notes on them about colors and fabrics, such as "gown of pale citron yellow chiffon in two shades with trailing effect of drapery and girdle of green and gray satin, green leaves forming the decoration. Introduced by Helen Paul, Inc". Toward the end of the scrapbook, on page 29, the year "1926" is written in the margin.
Box #35 - Bound volume, 74 fashion plates. "Illustrations of English and Foreign Costume from Fifteenth Century to the Present Day." London: Henry Sotheran and Co. 1875. Undeclared plates from engravings by Paquet brothers (Hippolyte & Polidor). This monograph was disbound and pasted into a scrapbook. 74 engravings depicting historical English and foreign clothing of notable royalty and common people. The index pasted on the second page gives an order for the titles and names of the engravings presented in later pages. 21 plates are missing, among them Henry VIII and Marie-Josephe, Queen of Poland.
Collection is comprised of model photographs, sketches, photographs of sketches, show programs, some newspaper and magazine clippings with articles about or by Lucile, order forms, advertisements, and fashion plates. Garment designs include theatrical costumes, wedding gowns, day and evening wear, tea gowns, lingerie and pajamas. Bulk of the collection consists of model photographs, fashion sketches, photographs of sketches and official phototransfers. In addition there are clippings of articles from different publications written by or about Lucile, she wrote regular columns for Hearst publications. Programs for the "Model Parades" introducing lines of clothing for several years. There are some photographs of Lucile's clients, and photographs of "Rose room" interiors of Lucile. Ltd from New York and Chicago locations. Inspirational and reference materials collected by Lucile and/or her staff, mainly fashion plates and newspaper clippings from different publications. Dates range from the early 1910s to the mid 1920s. Model photographs were glued in large format (12-14"w to 16-18"h) standard, blank books to order, referred throughout this finding aid as scrapbooks; there are 12 volumes in the collection. Bulk of original drawings that are arranged according to the type of clothing are loose, drawn on a heavy weight board; sketches for 1916 and 197-18 lines were glued into scrapbooks; there are 12 volumes of original drawings and 2 volumes of photographs and phototransfers. It is possible that two types of arrangement seen throughout the collection (most of Model photographs chronologically, most of sketches by type of clothing) are due to different purpose these materials served; sketches of period gowns or theatrical costumes could have been referred to time and time again for different productions or themed social events, whereas model photographs would have documented actual creation of such a garment at a certain point in time. It is also not clear why, but some scrapbooks with model photographs are reproduced in complete entirety, using same photo session materials some fully annotated.Duff Gordon, Lucy, Lady
2.3 linear feet - Mixed materials divided into following subseries: 1.3.1 Interior photographs; 1.3.2 Personalities; 1.3.3 Assorted model photographs; 1.3.4 Show programs; 1.3.5 Articles and promotional materials; 1.3.6 Scrapbook covers; 1.3.7 Fashion plates, inspirational materials; Some of these materials are duplicated by photocopy (show programs and articles) when possible please use instead of original material.
Materials from old--US.NNFIT.22.214.171.124 (Box 1) except for sketches. A mix of photographs of interiors, models and theater personalities. Instead of attempting to locate the context for the model photographs they will be left in this original arrangement, as they might be related to significant developments in Lucile Ltd. existence. For example a title "1 Lake Shore Drive" (No. 40, a winter coat and accessories ensemble) is the address of the Lucile Ltd. in Chicago established in 1915, this model was part of the Fall collection for that year. Interior photos of the "Rose rooms" from Chicago and New York locations are included here too. In addition, this box houses 5 covers of disbound scrapbook volumes.
5.5 linear feet - Model photographs series of the collection include documents Lucile Ltd. lines for 1915, 1916, 1917 and 1919 (not all seasons). Some of the lines are annotated with model titles, listing of fabrics and fabric swatches. In some instances a name of the customer or a price is jotted down. Most often there are multiple takes of the model showing front, back, and side views providing complete presentation of a costume. Some volumes repeat in almost complete entirety, (reasons unknown). Some of the annotations are written in careful script, with ruled lines for uniformity of the letter height, and pasted on a heavier board. Women in these photographs are mostly girls hired to model for Lucile Ltd., however there are some photographs of well known theater and film personalities (See series 1.3.2). Lady Duff Gordon was the first one to have specialized events called "Mannequin Parades" for showing clothes on beautiful women in staged settings, a precursor to today's runway fashion shows. In the collection clothes are modeled by models whose full names were not lost to history: Dolores (Kathleen Mary Rose [married name Willkinson]), Phyllis (Phyllis Francatelli), Dinarzade (Lillian Mulligan [married name Farley] in some sources identified as Lillian Fisher, or Petra Clive), Hebe (Constance Vasselier); as well as those known by only trade names - Arjamand, Melisande, Gamela, Corisande and others. Among photographers listed separately as contributors are, Joel Feder, T. Fall, Burke Atwell (Lucile Studio?), White Studio 1546 Broadway
2 photocopies of envelopes from Berley Studios in New York City that are notated with "Lady Duff Gordon # 1" and "Lady Duff Gordon Gordon #2".
Photocopies of articles written about Lady Duff Gordon dating as far back as 1910, all of the originals of which are housed in "The Ideal Scrapbook". Among them a photocopy of Women's Wear Daily, Dec. 22, 1925 spread with article on furs.
Photocopies of items missing from "The Ideal Scrapbook" housed in slipcase 15. There are photocopies of covers from programs that are not present in the scrapbook, such as Lucile, Ltd. Fall 1918 and Spring 1915 covers. There are also photocopies of an article entitled "My Diary", a photocopy of a cover of "Les Ides Novelles de la Mode", and a photocopy of an article from February 17, 1918.
Photocopies of most of the articles from the scrapbook in the same box. Not all articles were duplicated to protect against further deterioration of materials.
7 photocopies of articles written by or about Lady Duff Gordon from 1918 through 1919.
19 photocopies of articles by or about Lady Duff Gordon written about fashion from 1918 through 1919.
Photocopies of "The Ideal Scrapbook", the originals of which are housed in Box #30, US.NNFIT.SC.1.3.4 and US.NNFIT.SC.1.5.1-2. This box also contains photocopies of programs and articles of which the originals are missing from "The Ideal Scrapbook".
Photocopies of an article "Studies in Smartness" by Miss Violet Vanbrugh.
Disbound scrapbook, 167 photographs of unannotated garments. Designed by Lucile, Ltd. between mid-1910s to 1919. A disbound scrapbook. The range in garments photographed includes wool travelling suits, frothy formal gowns, exotic orientalist designs, and fur winter wear. This album shows the scope of Lucile's work, and highlights the variation within her ever-romantic vision that spanned over two decades. This particular volume has some interesting examples of shape, cut and draping, few rectangular/straight silhouettes; also of note is the older woman modeling some ensembles - #32, #34, #35, #36, #43, #66. Photography by Joel Feder.
26 photographs. The scrapbook that this material comes from was titled "McHorter". Evelyn McHorter's was Lucile Ltd. employee under Lady Duff Gordon, and took over the artistic control after Lucile left. These photographs were originally in the scrapbooks of fashion plates. There is no proof of significance of these sketches and Model Photographs being in the same volume, however, it may suggest that the designs were made by Evelyn McHorter, and represent a portfolio of her work.
Disbound scrapbook, 165 photographs part of 1919 line, and assorted fashion photographs of garments from 1919, unannotated [numbering implies two lines], in 4 folders. Designs inspired by romantic and oriental themes. In the year of 1919 Lucile lost artistic control of her fashion house, sold her stock, and became a salaried designer. Album is of heavier, grey paper, fits 2 photographs next to each other on a single page. Some photography by L. White studio.
10 (ten) loose photographs documenting ensembles, each encased in Mylar. There are seven photographs of full ensembles, one of which is mounted on Masonite. The remaining three photographs are of hat designs from 1919.
20 Model photographs of outer wear, day-wear, tea gowns and evening wear from 1910s. "Ideal scrapbook" is indicated as the original/previous location on several of these photographs.
8 Model photographs of ensembles from the nineteen-teens. All are encased in Mylar, and two have notation of titles and numbers which correspond with a line from the 1915: "No. 40, 1 Lake Shore Drive'" and "No. 40, 2 'Strictly Business'".
Disbound scrapbook, 145 photographs Autumn 1915 line, in 2 folders. Photographs are unannotated. At this time Lady Duff Gordon reached creative and financial pinnacle of her career. Success of New York branch helped to support the war-torn London and Paris branches. This line features a return to the full skirt and decorative pleating and decadent fabrics. Around this time Lucile gained status of a Permanent Resident in the United States. [See--US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.3-6 for annotation, duplicated material (models #91-#105 are not included in this volume)]
Disbound scrapbook 226 photographs, in 4 folders [originally incorrectly titled Autumn 1917]. Ensembles are numbered, titled, and have a description of fabric, colors, type, style, and in many cases notes occasion or purpose (evening gown, day costume, dinner gown etc.) Titles reflect personality or "mood" the garment invokes, for example: "My Part I'll Play", "Electra", "Youth", "Joy", "My little gray dove", Mushroom Velvet Coat. There are many titles that are transliteration of Russian nouns such as "Milochka", "Laska", "Goloubochka", "Pareniok". In 1.1.5 - #91, #92 and #95 are of motor coats, in US. NNFIT.SC.1.1.6 - unnumbered "Newport Bridesmaids Dress" and a wedding gown. Each model is documented with at least 2 photographs showing different views of the ensemble. Some ensembles are missing a photograph of a certain view (e.g. number represented by 4 photographs has 1 missing) - 27, 42, 43, 44, 45, 47, 48, 85, 86, 88, 94, 96, and 100. Album is long on horizontal axis, of poor quality paper, fits 2 photographs next to each other on a single page. [See: --US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.1-2 unannotated]