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Archivistische beschrijving
Mainbocher collection Stuk
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Women's Wear: Fall /Winter 1947; Spring//Summer 1948; Wedding Gowns

Volume 8 contains coverage of Mainbocher's Fall/Winter 1947 and Spring/Summer 1948 collections; his designs for elite weddings; and his role in dressing Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor, named one of the "Best Dressed Women of 1947." For fall, corsets were back. Mainbocher's collection was esentially a total recall of the past seven years executed in more opulent materials of post-war opportunity. He said the two key "battle-points" of fashion change were skirts and shoulders. For spring, the main idea of his collection was to merge "prettiness and chic." Included in this volume are several press releases from Eleanor Lambert's agency, as well as excerpts from radio programs that either Mainbocher himself appeared on, or his fashions were discussed by the host. The highlight of Volume 8 is a six-page color spread from the March 1948 issue of House and Garden magazine entitled "Self-Portrait in Two Rooms." It is a rare glimpse of the designer's New York City apartment with numerous Kertesz photographs. The single folder has a typed contents page. There are a handful of articles written in French.

Women's Wear: Spring/Summer 1956; Fall/Winter 1956

Volume 19 includes coverage of Mainbocher's Spring 1956 and Fall 1956 collections, as well as miscellaneous coverage of his designs for socialites like Mrs. William S. Paley (Barbara "Babe" Cushing Mortimer Paley). For spring, the designer did not embrace one particular silhouette, but rather included several different ones, hoping one would make a woman look her best. The collection had lots of colors and printed fabrics, especially florals. Suits and dresses were paired with an elbow-length stole, often made of the same fabric as the suit blouse. For fall he featured a wide range of evening gowns, including some with trains and others with the Turkish or harem hem. This volume includes articles in German; coverage of Paley's tie for first place of the world's best-dressed women; and several articles in which the Duchess of Windsor calls Mainbocher "the most important fashion influence in her life." Folders include a typed contents page; Five large black and white photographs of women (perhaps models in the salon) wearing what are presumably Mainbocher dresses; and a two-page article entitled "Women of Two Wars" in which some of Mainbocher's designs for uniforms are depicted.

Women's Wear: Fall/Winter 1959; Spring/Summer 1960; Fall/Winter 1960; miscellaneous coverage of his designs for socialites; coverage of the National WAVES Reunion and Mainbocher's Navy Meritorious Public Service Award in July 1960

Volume 22 includes coverage of Mainbocher's biannual collections, as well as miscellaneous articles and photographs of his designs for socialites and coverage of him being the first person in the fashion field to receive an official Navy award. For fall 1959 he showed a slightly lowered waistline and a longer suit jacket. In the spring of 1960 his clothes looked both forward and back. He revived some of his own bias cuts from the 1930s, but introduced longer suit jackets with low cut, collarless necklines worn with high neck blouses. For fall 1960 the big news was the he endorsed the culotte, or divided skirt. This was surprising since nearly all Seventh Avenue designers were also making them. He also introduced his "rain suit," which consisted of a three-quarter length flared coat over an equally flared skirt in beige water-repellent canvas. In this and other volumes there are random newspaper photographs of brides (i.e. Kate Roosevelt, grandaughter of FDR) without a caption, but since they were clipped by Mainbocher's service we are to assume that Mainbocher designed the wedding gowns. In the timespan covered in this volume he designed gowns for several of his clients for high-profile events. They include Mrs. Winston Guest and Glora Vanderbilt Lumet for the Embassy Ball in November 1959; for Guest, Diana Vreeland, Mrs. Edsel Ford and Ms. Benson Ford to wear to Charlotte Ford's coming out party in December 1959; and for Mrs. Charles Engelhard and daughter Anne Engelhard for Anne's engagement party and wedding in March 1960. Folders include a typed contents page; a program from the Waves National Reunion in Dallas, Texas from July 1960; and two large photographs of two of Mainbocher's models wearing clothing from his Fall 1960 collection.

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