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Mainbocher collection Pièce
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Women's Wear: Fall/Winter 1959; Spring/Summer 1960; Fall/Winter 1960; miscellaneous coverage of his designs for socialites; coverage of the National WAVES Reunion and Mainbocher's Navy Meritorious Public Service Award in July 1960

Volume 22 includes coverage of Mainbocher's biannual collections, as well as miscellaneous articles and photographs of his designs for socialites and coverage of him being the first person in the fashion field to receive an official Navy award. For fall 1959 he showed a slightly lowered waistline and a longer suit jacket. In the spring of 1960 his clothes looked both forward and back. He revived some of his own bias cuts from the 1930s, but introduced longer suit jackets with low cut, collarless necklines worn with high neck blouses. For fall 1960 the big news was the he endorsed the culotte, or divided skirt. This was surprising since nearly all Seventh Avenue designers were also making them. He also introduced his "rain suit," which consisted of a three-quarter length flared coat over an equally flared skirt in beige water-repellent canvas. In this and other volumes there are random newspaper photographs of brides (i.e. Kate Roosevelt, grandaughter of FDR) without a caption, but since they were clipped by Mainbocher's service we are to assume that Mainbocher designed the wedding gowns. In the timespan covered in this volume he designed gowns for several of his clients for high-profile events. They include Mrs. Winston Guest and Glora Vanderbilt Lumet for the Embassy Ball in November 1959; for Guest, Diana Vreeland, Mrs. Edsel Ford and Ms. Benson Ford to wear to Charlotte Ford's coming out party in December 1959; and for Mrs. Charles Engelhard and daughter Anne Engelhard for Anne's engagement party and wedding in March 1960. Folders include a typed contents page; a program from the Waves National Reunion in Dallas, Texas from July 1960; and two large photographs of two of Mainbocher's models wearing clothing from his Fall 1960 collection.

Theatrical Costumes, 1947-1951

Volume 9 includes coverage of Mainbocher's designs for the theatre from 1947 to 1951. He dressed Tallulah Bankhead in Private Lives; Ruth Gordon for her roles in The Leading Lady, The Smile of the World and A Month in the Country; Ethel Merman in Call Me Madam; Elliott Nugent and Betty Field in Not for Children; and ?? in Point of No Return. Folders include a typed contents page, many of the original programs for these shows and articles from Flair and Newsweek magazines. This scrapbook also contains articles from The New York Times Magazine, Collier's, Life, New York Post Week-End Magazine and Vogue; handwritten notes to Mainbocher from actor Henry Fonda and playwright Russel Crouse; and telegrams from actress Mary Martin and producer Leland Hayward.

Women's Wear: Fall/Winter 1946; Spring/Summer 1947; Miscellaneous coverage of the designer

Volume 7 contains coverage of Mainbocher's Fall/Winter 1946 and Spring/Summer 1947 collections. For fall, he showed several trend-making innovations, including the fur evening dress--a simple black dress trimmed in mink and chinchilla. His spring collection was hailed a "new fashion era" by New York Times fashion critic Virginia Pope. Mainbocher designed clothes with an absence of material and pattern restrictions. The final third of Volume 7 is miscellaneous coverage of the designer's public appearances and articles he wrote that were published in various newspapers. The final leaf has an original copy of a press release from The Fashion League, for release on or after October 20, 1947. Mainbocher is mentioned twice: First, he is credited with his masterful use of fabric as a trimming; and second, for turning out his most beautiful collection in recent years.

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