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US NNFIT SC.396.1.1 · item · 1939-1940
Part of Mainbocher collection

Volume 1 contains coverage of Mainbocher's back-to corsets movement and the new long torso silhouette he created in undergarments during his collaboration with Warner. It also contains extensive coverage of his famous "Rules for Chic" 12-point plan and his first trip back to his native Chicago. Included are Mainbocher-Warner PR materials, a New Yorker profile, and ads taken from the New Yorker, Vogue and Harper's Bazaar. Folders contain a periodicals list, a brief note from an unidentified woman to the designer and an issue of Look magazine with an article on Mainbocher's business from January 18, 1938.

US NNFIT SC.242.2.1 · item · 1940-1955
Part of Hattie Carnegie sketches, 1940-1955

This is a Hattie Carnegie Menswear sketch for her boutique on 49st in NYC. High-waisted pleated trousers with a fitted waist and relaxed fit pant leg and a pointed collar button down shirt.

Carnegie, Hattie
US NNFIT SC.336.1 · item · circa 1920
Part of Rosine perfume fans, circa 1920

This is a paper and wood fan created to promote perfume created by Paul Poiret's perfume company Rosine. The front bears a brightly colored naïve landscape seen through an arbor tunnel created by a student in the École Martine. The rear is segmented and printed radially with the names of the Rosine perfumes. A red sticker on the back of the fan indicates that it was scented with the perfume "L'Etrange Fleur."

US NNFIT SC.396.1.10 · item
Part of Mainbocher collection

Volume 10 is indicative of the diversified range of Mainbocher's designs and clientele. He created suitable eveningwear for both the WAVES and society women. In October 1948, he debuted a full-dress evening uniform for the WAVES--the first ever designed officially for women members of our country's military service. It was a three-piece ensemble of navy blue sheer wool and white silk, consisting of a jacket, blouse and skirt. The uniform reflected the "New Look" proportions, and also included a hat and navy envelope-shape evening bag with a single gold button fastening designed by Koret. He also updated the WAVES' daytime look from 1942 by lowering skirt lengths from a war-time seventeen and a half inches to a modified "new look" clearance of 13-14 inches. It was covered in an array of magazines from Vogue to Time to Beta Theta Pi, the University of Chicago chapter's literary magazine. The same year, he also designed gowns for some of society's most prominent women for the Gibson Girl Ball, which took place on December 20, 1948 at the Hotel Plaza. He was inspired by his research on the Gibson Girl era, as evidenced by the huge, draped leg-of-mutton sleeves that appeared in his collection. Many of "the belles of the ball," including Mrs. Charles Dana Gibson, Mrs. Vincent Astor and Mrs. John C. Wilson were featured in editorial spreads wearing their Mainbocher gowns. Finally, the volume contains coverage of Mainbocher's cardigan. The old sweater was fashionable for spring, and the designer was credited for introducing the dressy evening cardigan several seasons prior.