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Ideal Scrapbook, Show Programs, Newspaper Clippings

Covering a range of dates from 1910 to 1922, this collection of newspaper clippings chronicles Lucile, Ltd as an enterprise and Lady Duff Gordon as a societal figure in the press and through the programs to her fashion shows. Kept in its original order, in three folders.

Inspirational, Monograph of fashion plates in a scrapbook, 1875

Box #35 - Bound volume, 74 fashion plates. "Illustrations of English and Foreign Costume from Fifteenth Century to the Present Day." London: Henry Sotheran and Co. 1875. Undeclared plates from engravings by Paquet brothers (Hippolyte & Polidor). This monograph was disbound and pasted into a scrapbook. 74 engravings depicting historical English and foreign clothing of notable royalty and common people. The index pasted on the second page gives an order for the titles and names of the engravings presented in later pages. 21 plates are missing, among them Henry VIII and Marie-Josephe, Queen of Poland.

Inspirational, Clippings of costumes, scrapbook, 1920s

Box #34 - Bound scrapbook of 484 newspaper and magazine clippings of costume sketches. Gathered to about 15 to a page, these clippings are collaged in the book. None of the sketches related to a Lucile design. Some of the cut outs have notes on them about colors and fabrics, such as "gown of pale citron yellow chiffon in two shades with trailing effect of drapery and girdle of green and gray satin, green leaves forming the decoration. Introduced by Helen Paul, Inc". Toward the end of the scrapbook, on page 29, the year "1926" is written in the margin.

Sketches, Theater costumes and Millinery, 1920s, v.74

Loose 91 Millinery and Theatrical Wear sketches from 1920's in (old-volume .74) in 4 folders. Three folders contain drawings of theatrical costumes, fourth folder houses sketches of theatrical head-wear. Each sketch is drafted in pencil and painted in gouache. Some sketches have notes pertaining to color, fit, or material, and some are signed by different illustrators or designers associated with Lucile, Ltd.. one of them signed "bob" [Robert Kalloch], W. Ward. Several dated "Lucile 1920" and 1921. In the first folder There are some striking example of Russian themed designs with interpretations of traditional headdress "kokoshnik"; In a sketch .19(?) "onion" shaped domes of Vasilievskyj [St. Basil's] Sobor are drawn in the background. Second folder has several period costumes, and a sketch with caption "Little Old New York" [?for a play in "Follie" with Marion Davies?]

Sketches, Theater gowns and costumes v.77, Evening wear, 1920s

Loose 93 sketches in 6 folders. 2 folders with 65 sketches of theatrical costumes from early 1920s, (old-volume .77), 28 sketches in 4 folders assembled from other parts of collection for better access. Sketches are drafted in pencil and colored in gouache, and some have swatches of fabrics. A note on .28 reads: "Sketches should be returned at the earliest possible moment. A charge of $6 will be made for each sketch that is not returned to me." Some intended clients' names noted: .31 "Miss Bebe Daniels" (she was an American actress, singer, dancer and producer), "Miss Julia Hoyt", "Miss Peterson". 5 identified Ziegfeld Follies sketches are in this container as well: "Directorie 1795-1800, "Gothic, "Russian". There are more of the same style sketches in another folder: "Sharrah" (two sketches have this name) ; "Louis XIV"; "Venetian"; and "Venice". Several sketches signed and dated "Lucile 1920", 1921 and 1922.

Sketches, Theater costumes, Evening wear, 1920s, v.76

Loose 91 sketches (old-volume .76), in 4 folders. Early 1920s designs of theatrical costumes, evening wear, fancy dress, lingerie and swimwear. Designs are drafted in pencil and painted in gouache or watercolor. Many of the sketches are of theatrical costumes, some of the sketches are for nudity revealing garments. Eight drawings are dated and signed "Lucile 1921". A blond woman with golden hair appears drawn in some sketches. Among the artists recognizable throughout (Louise Schabacker, Mand T, etc.) one sketch signed "M. Willis". Some sketches indicate customer: third item in the first folder "Helen Lyons", .35 "Miss Martin", "For Miss Berry", "Madame Adelaide Fieldm...[illegible]". On several drawing note reads "fitted-gone", one has note "Mc?lan[illegible] says OK for stage". On several occasions several variations of the same outfit appear, as an example .55 and .57 are for the same dress, .39-.42 use same elements of costume in different ways.

Sketches, Coats and Wraps, circa 1920-1925, v.75

Loose 91 sketches of Coats and Wraps bulk from mid-1920s, (old-volume .75). In addition to the original drawings there are black and white photocopies of sketches [See: --US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.2.1-3 for originals] from late mid to late 1920s; many of these sketches are signed by Ethel Rabin, who worked for Berley Studios, a fashion drawing subscription service. Some of the designs seem to be from mid 1920s. .33 has a note "Jean Patou Coat 1925". Cloche hat accessorises some of the designs. Of note are designs of textiles with patterns and embroidery of far east are focus of some of the designs - .45, .49, .52, .53, .62, this is not an exhaustive list) Few signed by Louise Schabacker; eight drawings stamped with "Lucile Staff, Inc" (.63, .64, .66, .67, .68, .69, .71, .72, .85) In many drawings a woman has a red hair. Some notes with customers' names "Evelyn McHorter Miss R. Beatly", "Miss Hopkins"; some carry notes regarding prices and materials .86 "Furr Extra Price $375."; last sketch .91 has a stage note "1st Act"

Sketches, Negligees and Pajamas, 1920s, v.73

Loose 118 sketches of evening gowns from 1920s, most from mid-1920s, one item dated 1925, (old-volume .71), in 5 folders. Sketches are numbered from .1-.110; drafted in pencil, painted with gouache, and watercolor, some detailed in pen. [doublecheck - Some signed - Mand T., Alison, Evelyn, Dorothy, Louise Schabacker, Ethel Rabin (reproductions), and illegible signature that starts with a pictogram made up of letters and ends with "dverton".] Several drawings are stamped with "Lucile Staff, Inc. 22 East 56th St." Drawing .84 has a note at the top right corner: that reads "Lelong, Fall 1925", in a drawing .103 woman holding a cigarette, .106 has note that reads "Mrs. Flora B. Cammeron, This design is for an orchid or violet gown. Please send sample of light weight silk and lace in three shades."

Sketches, Period Gowns, 1920s, v.74

Loose 50 sketches of period costumes from early 1920s, (old-volume .74), in 2 folders. Interpretations of historical costume, ethnic garments, and theatrical costumes. Sketches with titles like "Moyen Age", "Italian", "Egyptian" and "Hindu" (the latter has a note "for Miss Van Cliff"). According to notes on the drawings some designs are for stage productions: "Miss Claire Act I", "Act 2, Scene 2"; some of the designs are variations of the same outfit; some with swatches of fabrics attached. In the second folder (US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.2.14) there is a group of drawings of robes/suits of Chinese inspired pants and tunics that were bound in small portfolio, some of these drawings are signed by Dorothy, Barker, Alison, Mand T., one of them is stamped on verso with "Marie Cook 58 West 57th st.", and "Lucile Staff, Inc."

Sketches, Evening Gowns, 1920s, v.71

Loose 118 sketches of evening gowns from 1920s, most from mid-1920s, one item dated 1925, (old-volume .71), in 5 folders. Sketches are numbered from .1-.110; drafted in pencil, painted with gouache, and watercolor, some detailed in pen. [doublecheck - Some signed - Mand T., Alison, Evelyn, Dorothy, Louise Schabacker, Ethel Rabin (reproductions), and illegible signature that starts with a pictogram made up of letters and ends with "dverton". - doublecheck] Several drawings are stamped with "Lucile Staff, Inc. 22 East 56th St." Drawing .84 has a note at the top right corner: that reads "Lelong, Fall 1925", in a drawing .103 woman holding a cigarette, .106 has note that reads "Mrs. Flora B. Cammeron, This design is for an orchid or violet gown. Please send sample of light weight silk and lace in three shades."

Sketches, Wedding Gowns, 1920s, v.72

Loose 40 sketches, wedding gowns from the 1920s (old-volume 72), in 2 folders Sketches numbered .1 to .40. Executed in a variety of styles by multiple artists that can be recognized throughout the collection, at least seven distinct artists. Mostly unsigned, and undated. One signed Mand T., and one stamped "Lucile Staff Inc. 22 East 56th St."

Sketches, drawings, Fall 1917/Spring 1918

Disbound scrapbook, 63 sketches, from "Sketches of Models Autumn 1917 Spring 1918". Ensembles are named and numbered according to the sequence in the line. Sketches are drafted in pencil, painted in gouache, and detailed in pen, executed by a single artist. 16 of these sketches also have fabric swatches, and 15 are unannotated. In the same year Lucile designed a ready-to-wear clothing line in collaboration with Sears-Roebuck. #1 reads "Where the Shannon River Flows", #12 "El Celosa", #15 "Datura", #28 "Juanita", #48 "The Vanderbilt Cup", #60 "Dixie Land", #63 "Petroushka, #64 "Bobby's Here", #68 "Cupids Dream", #73 "Gena" wedding gown, #74 "Podruga" bridesmaids gown.

Sketches, drawings, 1916

Disbound scrapbook, 182 sketches from 1916, 3 folders in 2 containers. Sketches are named, numbered according to the line(s) sequence(s). Drafted in pencil and painted with gouache, and watercolor. There are 20 unannotated sketches; 62 sketches have fabric swatches. Numbering implies 3 lines. At the end of the 1st folder there are some childrens clothing designs. In the second folder #3 "Brighton South Shore", #40 "Flo, Flo" In addition to these consistently numbered and annotated sketches there are 50 "Coats and Wraps" sketches from mid 1920s, some of these are signed by Ethel Rabin, sketch artist who worked for Berley Studios, a fashion drawing subscription service. These are not original drawings, but reproductions, and pasted randomly on the available pages of this otherwise filled volume. In most of these "out of place" sketches Barely Studios imprint and artist's signature are obliterated (scratched out) or covered up by the imprint of Lucile Limited.