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Description archivistique
sub-series
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Sketches, original drawings, circa 1915-1925

4.6 linear feet - The bulk of original drawings are from early 1920s. This part of the collection has several arrangements, by year, season, or type of clothing - such as Evening Wear, Evening Gowns, Theatrical Wear, Wraps and Coats, Pajamas and Negligees, and Wedding Gowns. 2 volumes document lines by year and season (1916, 1917-1918). Sketches rendered in several distinct styles, by multiple artists. Some illustrations very carefully drawn and colored with great attention to detail (most consistent example 1916 sketches), drawings from later period captivate as much for the style of execution as the subject they portray (Theatrical costume). Loose sketches collected into volumes by clothing type make up the bulk of the subseries (fragments of scrapbooks' cover artwork can be seen in 1.3.6). Drawn on a heavy board in various techniques, predominantly ink, gouache, and watercolor, some accentuated with gold and silver. There are many cases where it is especially difficult to attribute the purpose of the garment, a tea gown or theatrical costume maybe misinterpreted/misattributed, since Lucile designed for themed occasions, theater and revue, where risque outfits were required; evening gowns designed for the stage actresses may have become part of the evening wear collection. Most of the loose sketches have rusty staple marks on them.

Clippings of Newspaper articles and photocopies, 1918-1925

Bound scrapbook with articles written by Lady Duff Gordon or about Lucile, Ltd. from 1919, and 4 folder of photocopies of these articles to protect against further deterioration. Articles are the product of a clipping service with multiple copies of the same few articles from different publications.

Photocopies of Show programs and Articles

Photocopies of "The Ideal Scrapbook", the originals of which are housed in Box #30, US.NNFIT.SC.1.3.4 and US.NNFIT.SC.1.5.1-2. This box also contains photocopies of programs and articles of which the originals are missing from "The Ideal Scrapbook".

Mixed materials, interiors, assorted models, cover art,1910s-1920s

Materials from old--US.NNFIT.1.1.1.16 (Box 1) except for sketches. A mix of photographs of interiors, models and theater personalities. Instead of attempting to locate the context for the model photographs they will be left in this original arrangement, as they might be related to significant developments in Lucile Ltd. existence. For example a title "1 Lake Shore Drive" (No. 40, a winter coat and accessories ensemble) is the address of the Lucile Ltd. in Chicago established in 1915, this model was part of the Fall collection for that year. Interior photos of the "Rose rooms" from Chicago and New York locations are included here too. In addition, this box houses 5 covers of disbound scrapbook volumes.

Construction documentation

Random assortment of photographs showing building construction related events and activities. Images of proposed buildings. Most photographs are undated, but appear to be from the 1940s to the 1980s.

Inspirational, 19th Century Fashion Plates, McHorter scrapbook

85 fashion plates from a disbound scrapbook. Fashion plates are prints of engravings dating as far back as 1811. Some are very carefully colored, as if by someone with vision problems. The scrapbook was titled "McHorter"; Evelyn McHorter was Lucile Ltd. employee under Lady Duff Gordon, and took over the artistic control after Lucile left. [25 Model photographs and 4 Lucile sketches were moved to a different parts of the collection, please see the Archivist Note 2 for new location]

Photographs, Fall, 1919

Disbound scrapbook, 234 photographs, Autumn 1919, 4 folders in 2 containers. Each ensemble is named and numbered in accordance to their order displayed at the autumn 1919 fashion show. Created in a period of legal and business difficulties, this line is one of the last produced by Lady Duff Gordon for Lucile, Ltd. Most costumes have two to four photographs displaying different views of the ensemble. Included in this scrapbook is a copy of a half page advertisement for Lucile, Ltd. from the May 1st, 1920 issue of Town and Country Magazine. The add indicates that the collection was created in France. The photography is less controlled, many photographs are overexposed, the interior of the room itself is somewhat drab, dresses less ornamented, more solemn, some not very well fitted, many new girls among those modeling the clothes, fabrics feature bold patterns. The program for the premier fashion show of this line is available in--US.NNFIT.SC.1.3.4.1

Photographs, Fall, 1915, 2 of 2

Disbound scrapbook 226 photographs, in 4 folders [originally incorrectly titled Autumn 1917]. Ensembles are numbered, titled, and have a description of fabric, colors, type, style, and in many cases notes occasion or purpose (evening gown, day costume, dinner gown etc.) Titles reflect personality or "mood" the garment invokes, for example: "My Part I'll Play", "Electra", "Youth", "Joy", "My little gray dove", Mushroom Velvet Coat. There are many titles that are transliteration of Russian nouns such as "Milochka", "Laska", "Goloubochka", "Pareniok". In 1.1.5 - #91, #92 and #95 are of motor coats, in US. NNFIT.SC.1.1.6 - unnumbered "Newport Bridesmaids Dress" and a wedding gown. Each model is documented with at least 2 photographs showing different views of the ensemble. Some ensembles are missing a photograph of a certain view (e.g. number represented by 4 photographs has 1 missing) - 27, 42, 43, 44, 45, 47, 48, 85, 86, 88, 94, 96, and 100. Album is long on horizontal axis, of poor quality paper, fits 2 photographs next to each other on a single page. [See: --US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.1-2 unannotated]

Photographs, Fall, 1917

Disbound scrapbook, 136 photographs from Fall, 1917 in 4 folders, 2 containers. Each ensemble is named, numbered, described, and ordered according to its display in the premier fashion show; among them #12 "Mary Pickford", #28 "Revolution". Last folder --US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.17 contains many fur coat designs. Many ensembles have multiple photographs depicting different views of the costume. Photographs taken at Studio.

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