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Photographs, Fall, 1915, 1 of 2

Disbound scrapbook, 145 photographs Autumn 1915 line, in 2 folders. Photographs are unannotated. At this time Lady Duff Gordon reached creative and financial pinnacle of her career. Success of New York branch helped to support the war-torn London and Paris branches. This line features a return to the full skirt and decorative pleating and decadent fabrics. Around this time Lucile gained status of a Permanent Resident in the United States. [See--US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.3-6 for annotation, duplicated material (models #91-#105 are not included in this volume)]

Photographs, Fall, 1916/Spring, 1917

Disbound scrapbook, (79 leaves?) (168 photographs?) from the autumn 1916 and spring 1917 lines, in 3 folders. Garments are fully annotated, includes title, number, and short description noting colors and/or fabrics. The program for the premier fashion show of this line is available in--US.NNFIT.SC.1.3.4.1 Each number worn by the model has two to four photographs of the garments from different angles. Many designs of oriental influence, especially tea gowns such as #14 "Djer-kiss" Persian, #11 "Tuan", and evening wear - #47 "Bilitis" evening gown, #28 "Salambo" opera coat. Missing is ensemble #5; ensemble #45 is fully described but has no photographs and a note "not designed". 1 item previously in a separate folder was moved into first folder - #33. Album is of heavier, gray color paper, fits 2 photographs next to each other on a single page. [See: --US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.7-9 for duplicated material, note the inconsistency in titles (1916-1917 vs 1916)] Photographs by Feder, Joel

Photographs, Fall, 1917

Disbound scrapbook, 136 photographs from Fall, 1917 in 4 folders, 2 containers. Each ensemble is named, numbered, described, and ordered according to its display in the premier fashion show; among them #12 "Mary Pickford", #28 "Revolution". Last folder --US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.17 contains many fur coat designs. Many ensembles have multiple photographs depicting different views of the costume. Photographs taken at Studio.

Photographs, Fall, 1919

Disbound scrapbook, 234 photographs, Autumn 1919, 4 folders in 2 containers. Each ensemble is named and numbered in accordance to their order displayed at the autumn 1919 fashion show. Created in a period of legal and business difficulties, this line is one of the last produced by Lady Duff Gordon for Lucile, Ltd. Most costumes have two to four photographs displaying different views of the ensemble. Included in this scrapbook is a copy of a half page advertisement for Lucile, Ltd. from the May 1st, 1920 issue of Town and Country Magazine. The add indicates that the collection was created in France. The photography is less controlled, many photographs are overexposed, the interior of the room itself is somewhat drab, dresses less ornamented, more solemn, some not very well fitted, many new girls among those modeling the clothes, fabrics feature bold patterns. The program for the premier fashion show of this line is available in--US.NNFIT.SC.1.3.4.1

Photographs, Foreign orders, 1919

Disbound scrapbook, 66 photographs, Foreign orders 1919, in 3 folders. In US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.23 are two lists/receipts with orders in French Francs. The photographs are taken in the garden with a fountain, trees, some in sunshine, as well as inside the room with large with either large painting in a background or a stage set. Photographic prints themselves are of larger format than usually seen throughout the collection.

Photographs, 1919

Disbound scrapbook, 165 photographs part of 1919 line, and assorted fashion photographs of garments from 1919, unannotated [numbering implies two lines], in 4 folders. Designs inspired by romantic and oriental themes. In the year of 1919 Lucile lost artistic control of her fashion house, sold her stock, and became a salaried designer. Album is of heavier, grey paper, fits 2 photographs next to each other on a single page. Some photography by L. White studio.

Photographs, 1910s, #1

Disbound scrapbook, 167 photographs of unannotated garments. Designed by Lucile, Ltd. between mid-1910s to 1919. A disbound scrapbook. The range in garments photographed includes wool travelling suits, frothy formal gowns, exotic orientalist designs, and fur winter wear. This album shows the scope of Lucile's work, and highlights the variation within her ever-romantic vision that spanned over two decades. This particular volume has some interesting examples of shape, cut and draping, few rectangular/straight silhouettes; also of note is the older woman modeling some ensembles - #32, #34, #35, #36, #43, #66. Photography by Joel Feder.

Photographs, Fall, 1915, 2 of 2

Disbound scrapbook 226 photographs, in 4 folders [originally incorrectly titled Autumn 1917]. Ensembles are numbered, titled, and have a description of fabric, colors, type, style, and in many cases notes occasion or purpose (evening gown, day costume, dinner gown etc.) Titles reflect personality or "mood" the garment invokes, for example: "My Part I'll Play", "Electra", "Youth", "Joy", "My little gray dove", Mushroom Velvet Coat. There are many titles that are transliteration of Russian nouns such as "Milochka", "Laska", "Goloubochka", "Pareniok". In 1.1.5 - #91, #92 and #95 are of motor coats, in US. NNFIT.SC.1.1.6 - unnumbered "Newport Bridesmaids Dress" and a wedding gown. Each model is documented with at least 2 photographs showing different views of the ensemble. Some ensembles are missing a photograph of a certain view (e.g. number represented by 4 photographs has 1 missing) - 27, 42, 43, 44, 45, 47, 48, 85, 86, 88, 94, 96, and 100. Album is long on horizontal axis, of poor quality paper, fits 2 photographs next to each other on a single page. [See: --US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.1-2 unannotated]

Photographs, Private Collection, 1910s

Disbound scrapbook, 252 photographs from Private Collection 1910s, 5 folders in 2 containers. Annotated, each ensemble is titled and described. For example: "Don't Go Away", "Young ladies blue leisure coat and white leisure skirt". Photography by T. Fall and Burke Atwell; the surroundings are not obscured, photographed outside and indoors. The program for the premier fashion show of this line is available in--US.NNFIT.SC.1.3.4.1

Photographs, Fall, 1916

Disbound scrapbook, 170 photographs of autumn models from 1916, in 3 folders. The program for the premier fashion show of this line is available in--US.NNFIT.SC.1.3.4.1. The garments are annotated with a title and one line description for each ensemble, among them "A Song of Songs" and "Are You Prepared", #21 sports costume, #14 "Djer-kiss". Lucile, Ltd. couture houses in London and Paris were grimly affected by the First World War. In contrast, this line highlights opulence present in United States, especially high society of New York and Chicago. Produced the same year as Lady Duff Gordon's ready-to-wear line in collaboration with Sears Roebuck. [See--US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.10-12 for duplicates of this material, note inconsistency in titles (1916-1917 vs 1916)] Photographs taken at the studio

Sketches, phototransfers of, 1910s

0.9 linear foot - phototransfers from 1910s. Volumes that contains this material were named "Old Lucile", some of the sketch photographs are dated 1916 and 1917, sometimes month and day is indicated. "Lucile" or "Lady Duff Gordon" signed occasionally. Some have fabric swatches attached. Sketches are rendered in several distinct styles, by different artists. Some photographs occur more than once. These photographs were pasted within the scrapbook without clear order.

Sketches, original drawings, circa 1915-1925

4.6 linear feet - The bulk of original drawings are from early 1920s. This part of the collection has several arrangements, by year, season, or type of clothing - such as Evening Wear, Evening Gowns, Theatrical Wear, Wraps and Coats, Pajamas and Negligees, and Wedding Gowns. 2 volumes document lines by year and season (1916, 1917-1918). Sketches rendered in several distinct styles, by multiple artists. Some illustrations very carefully drawn and colored with great attention to detail (most consistent example 1916 sketches), drawings from later period captivate as much for the style of execution as the subject they portray (Theatrical costume). Loose sketches collected into volumes by clothing type make up the bulk of the subseries (fragments of scrapbooks' cover artwork can be seen in 1.3.6). Drawn on a heavy board in various techniques, predominantly ink, gouache, and watercolor, some accentuated with gold and silver. There are many cases where it is especially difficult to attribute the purpose of the garment, a tea gown or theatrical costume maybe misinterpreted/misattributed, since Lucile designed for themed occasions, theater and revue, where risque outfits were required; evening gowns designed for the stage actresses may have become part of the evening wear collection. Most of the loose sketches have rusty staple marks on them.

Mixed materials, interiors, assorted models, cover art,1910s-1920s

Materials from old--US.NNFIT.1.1.1.16 (Box 1) except for sketches. A mix of photographs of interiors, models and theater personalities. Instead of attempting to locate the context for the model photographs they will be left in this original arrangement, as they might be related to significant developments in Lucile Ltd. existence. For example a title "1 Lake Shore Drive" (No. 40, a winter coat and accessories ensemble) is the address of the Lucile Ltd. in Chicago established in 1915, this model was part of the Fall collection for that year. Interior photos of the "Rose rooms" from Chicago and New York locations are included here too. In addition, this box houses 5 covers of disbound scrapbook volumes.

Photocopies of Show programs and Articles

Photocopies of "The Ideal Scrapbook", the originals of which are housed in Box #30, US.NNFIT.SC.1.3.4 and US.NNFIT.SC.1.5.1-2. This box also contains photocopies of programs and articles of which the originals are missing from "The Ideal Scrapbook".

Inspirational, 19th Century Fashion Plates, McHorter scrapbook

85 fashion plates from a disbound scrapbook. Fashion plates are prints of engravings dating as far back as 1811. Some are very carefully colored, as if by someone with vision problems. The scrapbook was titled "McHorter"; Evelyn McHorter was Lucile Ltd. employee under Lady Duff Gordon, and took over the artistic control after Lucile left. [25 Model photographs and 4 Lucile sketches were moved to a different parts of the collection, please see the Archivist Note 2 for new location]

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