Loose 50 sketches of period costumes from early 1920s, (old-volume .74), in 2 folders. Interpretations of historical costume, ethnic garments, and theatrical costumes. Sketches with titles like "Moyen Age", "Italian", "Egyptian" and "Hindu" (the latter has a note "for Miss Van Cliff"). According to notes on the drawings some designs are for stage productions: "Miss Claire Act I", "Act 2, Scene 2"; some of the designs are variations of the same outfit; some with swatches of fabrics attached. In the second folder (US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.2.14) there is a group of drawings of robes/suits of Chinese inspired pants and tunics that were bound in small portfolio, some of these drawings are signed by Dorothy, Barker, Alison, Mand T., one of them is stamped on verso with "Marie Cook 58 West 57th st.", and "Lucile Staff, Inc."
Loose 91 sketches of Coats and Wraps bulk from mid-1920s, (old-volume .75). In addition to the original drawings there are black and white photocopies of sketches [See: --US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.2.1-3 for originals] from late mid to late 1920s; many of these sketches are signed by Ethel Rabin, who worked for Berley Studios, a fashion drawing subscription service. Some of the designs seem to be from mid 1920s. .33 has a note "Jean Patou Coat 1925". Cloche hat accessorises some of the designs. Of note are designs of textiles with patterns and embroidery of far east are focus of some of the designs - .45, .49, .52, .53, .62, this is not an exhaustive list) Few signed by Louise Schabacker; eight drawings stamped with "Lucile Staff, Inc" (.63, .64, .66, .67, .68, .69, .71, .72, .85) In many drawings a woman has a red hair. Some notes with customers' names "Evelyn McHorter Miss R. Beatly", "Miss Hopkins"; some carry notes regarding prices and materials .86 "Furr Extra Price $375."; last sketch .91 has a stage note "1st Act"
Directional folder indicating location where original material can be seen
26 sketches .26 - .50 of coats and wraps. .34, .43, and .50 are missing from this location.
Loose 91 sketches (old-volume .76), in 4 folders. Early 1920s designs of theatrical costumes, evening wear, fancy dress, lingerie and swimwear. Designs are drafted in pencil and painted in gouache or watercolor. Many of the sketches are of theatrical costumes, some of the sketches are for nudity revealing garments. Eight drawings are dated and signed "Lucile 1921". A blond woman with golden hair appears drawn in some sketches. Among the artists recognizable throughout (Louise Schabacker, Mand T, etc.) one sketch signed "M. Willis". Some sketches indicate customer: third item in the first folder "Helen Lyons", .35 "Miss Martin", "For Miss Berry", "Madame Adelaide Fieldm...[illegible]". On several drawing note reads "fitted-gone", one has note "Mc?lan[illegible] says OK for stage". On several occasions several variations of the same outfit appear, as an example .55 and .57 are for the same dress, .39-.42 use same elements of costume in different ways.
26 sketches .31-.55 in volume .76.
5 sketches of costumes identified as designs for 1921[previously misattributed to 1925] Ziegfeld Follies. Sketches are titled in reference to the period, style, or play personality: "Directorie 1795-1800, "Gothic, "Russian".
3 pencil and gouache sketches of evening wear from the 1920s.
30 sketches .1-.30 in Volume .77
35 sketches .31-.65 in Volume .77
30 sketches .31-.60 in Volume .74, Theatrical Costumes.
22 photographs of society women and/or actresses, several large format photographs with scenes and cast
20 Model photographs of outer wear, day-wear, tea gowns and evening wear from 1910s. "Ideal scrapbook" is indicated as the original/previous location on several of these photographs.
Bound scrapbook, 90 leaves
19 photocopies of articles by or about Lady Duff Gordon written about fashion from 1918 through 1919.
2 photocopies of envelopes from Berley Studios in New York City that are notated with "Lady Duff Gordon # 1" and "Lady Duff Gordon Gordon #2".
5 items - Scrapbook cover art (fragments of covers)
7 fashion plates. One leave in mylar, one scrapbook cover with plates glued to it, and three raised profile mounts framing plates. All of these items were removed from their original placement within the scrapbook after disbinding for protection of surrounding materials.
37 fashion plates. Enclosed in a separate portfolio for preservation and easier access: 3 loose fashion plates; a page of the scrapbook with reproductions of one Barbier and one Simeon "Chloe" plates; one page with two plates and fabric ribbon swatch. The rest of the content is in the original order.
Box #34 - Bound scrapbook of 484 newspaper and magazine clippings of costume sketches. Gathered to about 15 to a page, these clippings are collaged in the book. None of the sketches related to a Lucile design. Some of the cut outs have notes on them about colors and fabrics, such as "gown of pale citron yellow chiffon in two shades with trailing effect of drapery and girdle of green and gray satin, green leaves forming the decoration. Introduced by Helen Paul, Inc". Toward the end of the scrapbook, on page 29, the year "1926" is written in the margin.
Directional folder to locate items which were part of old-US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.1.16 - Box 1
Bound scrapbook with articles written by Lady Duff Gordon or about Lucile, Ltd. from 1919, and 4 folder of photocopies of these articles to protect against further deterioration. Articles are the product of a clipping service with multiple copies of the same few articles from different publications.
5.5 linear feet - Model photographs series of the collection include documents Lucile Ltd. lines for 1915, 1916, 1917 and 1919 (not all seasons). Some of the lines are annotated with model titles, listing of fabrics and fabric swatches. In some instances a name of the customer or a price is jotted down. Most often there are multiple takes of the model showing front, back, and side views providing complete presentation of a costume. Some volumes repeat in almost complete entirety, (reasons unknown). Some of the annotations are written in careful script, with ruled lines for uniformity of the letter height, and pasted on a heavier board. Women in these photographs are mostly girls hired to model for Lucile Ltd., however there are some photographs of well known theater and film personalities (See series 1.3.2). Lady Duff Gordon was the first one to have specialized events called "Mannequin Parades" for showing clothes on beautiful women in staged settings, a precursor to today's runway fashion shows. In the collection clothes are modeled by models whose full names were not lost to history: Dolores (Kathleen Mary Rose [married name Willkinson]), Phyllis (Phyllis Francatelli), Dinarzade (Lillian Mulligan [married name Farley] in some sources identified as Lillian Fisher, or Petra Clive), Hebe (Constance Vasselier); as well as those known by only trade names - Arjamand, Melisande, Gamela, Corisande and others. Among photographers listed separately as contributors are, Joel Feder, T. Fall, Burke Atwell (Lucile Studio?), White Studio 1546 Broadway
Disbound scrapbook, 145 photographs Autumn 1915 line, in 2 folders. Photographs are unannotated. At this time Lady Duff Gordon reached creative and financial pinnacle of her career. Success of New York branch helped to support the war-torn London and Paris branches. This line features a return to the full skirt and decorative pleating and decadent fabrics. Around this time Lucile gained status of a Permanent Resident in the United States. [See--US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.3-6 for annotation, duplicated material (models #91-#105 are not included in this volume)]
80 photographs, models #1-#37
51 photographs, models #1-#21
14 photographs, models unnumbered
58 photographs, models #1-#24
48 photographs, models #48-#78
45 photographs, models #33-#47
45 photographs, models #48-#91
Disbound scrapbook, 136 photographs from Fall, 1917 in 4 folders, 2 containers. Each ensemble is named, numbered, described, and ordered according to its display in the premier fashion show; among them #12 "Mary Pickford", #28 "Revolution". Last folder --US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.17 contains many fur coat designs. Many ensembles have multiple photographs depicting different views of the costume. Photographs taken at Studio.
39 photographs, models #1-#17
36 photographs, models #18-#42
40 photographs, models #43-#69
21 photograph, models #69-#88, contains many fur coat designs
22 photographs and 2 pages with orders listing prices.
68 photographs, models #8-#41. There are many numbers missing, including numbers 9-11, 14, 17, 19, 23-25, 34, 36-37, 39-40, 43-44, and 46. Each ensemble is numbered and described, untitled.
92 photographs, models #1-#47; mostly walking suits and coats.
Disbound scrapbook, 252 photographs from Private Collection 1910s, 5 folders in 2 containers. Annotated, each ensemble is titled and described. For example: "Don't Go Away", "Young ladies blue leisure coat and white leisure skirt". Photography by T. Fall and Burke Atwell; the surroundings are not obscured, photographed outside and indoors. The program for the premier fashion show of this line is available in--US.NNFIT.SC.1.3.4.1
48 photographs, models #24-#39
62 photographs, models #40-#54
5.5 linear feet - Sketches series are divided into following subseries: 1.2.1 phototransfers and photographs of sketches; 1.2.2 Original drawings. Descriptions with specific details regarding form and content are provided with subseries, and volume or folder level descriptions. Authorship of the sketches is hard to determine, at least 7 distinct artists' work appears repeatedly throughout the collection. Stylistically they vary greatly, from very precise drawing and color application, to much looser line and dabs of color. Some of the figure drawings indicate classic training, in other instances figure appears stiff, faces cartoonish, yet other artists favor stylized figure. There are differences in color application as well, ranging from masterful technique in watercolor for transparent and light fabrics accentuated with gouache for effect of raised texture or embroidery, to carefully applied opaque, flat, vibrant color with incredibly detailed textile pattern or texture. Bulk of the sketches are not signed, those that are signed rarely were signed in full; among those - Louise Schabacker, Mary Keene, Marie Cook, Ethel Rabin (reproductions of sketches mid-to-late 1920s); other artists supplied initials, abbreviation, or pictogram, in some instances only first or only last name - Bob (possibly Robert Kalloch), Alison, Dorothy, Barker (Shirley Barker), Mand T. (or Mond T.) W. Ward. In some cases name is too difficult to decipher for example - "Albalverton" has been signed in few different ways, and most likely deciphered incorrectly. Many times sketches are signed "Lucile", but that name was signed by many, in variety of styles, and could mean among other things: sign of intellectual and/or physical ownership of the Lucile, Ltd., or a sign of approval by lead designer. Items --US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.2.6-34 are sketches arranged by the type of clothing; although rarely dated, those dated are from 1920, 1921, and 1922, some of the material might predate or be of later dates than indicated. For years 1916, 1917-1918 see US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.2.1-5
70 photographs of sketches and phototransfers, few items dated 1916, one 25 March, 1916. There are few photographs where the binding or an original sketch being pinned can be seen. Among the models "#48 "Venetia, #61 "Fair as Eve", #14 "Leap Gear", #69 "Sweet Lyra"
45 sketches, models #1-#60
72 sketches, models #1-#65
15 sketches .26-40. volume 72. All sketches are encased in Mylar sleeves.
30 sketches .81-.110 of volume 71
40 sketches .1-.40 in Volume .73, Negligees and Pajamas. Numbers .2 and .7 have fabric swatches attached. One phototransfer .109 "Psyche".
25 sketches .1 - .25 of coats and wraps
30 sketches .1-.30, volume .76.
17 sketches .56-.72 of volume .76.
Loose 93 sketches in 6 folders. 2 folders with 65 sketches of theatrical costumes from early 1920s, (old-volume .77), 28 sketches in 4 folders assembled from other parts of collection for better access. Sketches are drafted in pencil and colored in gouache, and some have swatches of fabrics. A note on .28 reads: "Sketches should be returned at the earliest possible moment. A charge of $6 will be made for each sketch that is not returned to me." Some intended clients' names noted: .31 "Miss Bebe Daniels" (she was an American actress, singer, dancer and producer), "Miss Julia Hoyt", "Miss Peterson". 5 identified Ziegfeld Follies sketches are in this container as well: "Directorie 1795-1800, "Gothic, "Russian". There are more of the same style sketches in another folder: "Sharrah" (two sketches have this name) ; "Louis XIV"; "Venetian"; and "Venice". Several sketches signed and dated "Lucile 1920", 1921 and 1922.
9 theatrical costume sketches by Lucile from 1921, five of which are annotated with names. These names are: "Sharrah" (two sketches have this name) ; "Louis XIV"; "Venetian"; and "Venice". All of these sketches were drafted in pencil and painted with gouache. There are two sketches of a theatrical headdress. old-US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.1.16.4 - sketch of female head drawn in pencil, wearing a tall semi-bell crown hat (type of a top hat) with an adornment. Hat is painted in gold. Adornment is a half-opened fan shape, sea-green with magenta triangle in the center.
9 unmarked sketches from 1920s Evening Gowns, and 3 sketches displayed in 'The Artful Line'.
15 sketches .61-.75 in Volume .74, Theatrical Costumes.
4 items - Interior photographs from New York and Chicago branches of Lucile Ltd
0.5 linear foot - Newspaper clippings of articles by and/or about Lucile (Lady Duff Gordon and about company)
Photocopies of an article "Studies in Smartness" by Miss Violet Vanbrugh.