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Description archivistique
Fashion Institute of Technology-SUNY, Gladys Marcus Library, Special Collections and College Archives Série organique
Aperçu avant impression Affichage :

Unsorted sketches

Unsorted sketches of various media, patterns, fabric swatches, tear sheet, some of which are stamped on the back with John Paul Bozett.

Bozett, John Paul

Scrapbooks, 1939-1967

This series contains 2 spiral-bound scrapbooks filled with press clippings, high-quality photographs, and personal correspondence, dating from 1939-1967, relating to hats created by Robert Dudley and hat-making classes taught by Robert Dudley.

Slides and photos, 1993-1995

This series is comprised of 13 slides from the Berlin 1995 show and 23 color photographs from the 1993 RTW runway show. One marked image is a Museum at FIT suit, 2016.47.12.

Press

This series is comprised of 5 folders containing Arkin press and tear sheets. Included was a FIT yearbook from 1968 which included an image of Norman Lerner.

Eleanor Lambert Columns and Column Records

This series contains columns and materials pertaining to columns written by Eleanor Lambert. Presumably, the columns here were issued as her syndicated "She" column which started, according to John Tiffany, in 1964 and was renamed "Eleanor Lambert" in 1982. The column ran until the time of her death in 2003.

Lambert, Eleanor, 1903-2003

Model photographs, 1915-1919

5.5 linear feet - Model photographs series of the collection include documents Lucile Ltd. lines for 1915, 1916, 1917 and 1919 (not all seasons). Some of the lines are annotated with model titles, listing of fabrics and fabric swatches. In some instances a name of the customer or a price is jotted down. Most often there are multiple takes of the model showing front, back, and side views providing complete presentation of a costume. Some volumes repeat in almost complete entirety, (reasons unknown). Some of the annotations are written in careful script, with ruled lines for uniformity of the letter height, and pasted on a heavier board. Women in these photographs are mostly girls hired to model for Lucile Ltd., however there are some photographs of well known theater and film personalities (See series 1.3.2). Lady Duff Gordon was the first one to have specialized events called "Mannequin Parades" for showing clothes on beautiful women in staged settings, a precursor to today's runway fashion shows. In the collection clothes are modeled by models whose full names were not lost to history: Dolores (Kathleen Mary Rose [married name Willkinson]), Phyllis (Phyllis Francatelli), Dinarzade (Lillian Mulligan [married name Farley] in some sources identified as Lillian Fisher, or Petra Clive), Hebe (Constance Vasselier); as well as those known by only trade names - Arjamand, Melisande, Gamela, Corisande and others. Among photographers listed separately as contributors are, Joel Feder, T. Fall, Burke Atwell (Lucile Studio?), White Studio 1546 Broadway

Sketches, phototransfers of, and original drawings, circa 1915-1925

5.5 linear feet - Sketches series are divided into following subseries: 1.2.1 phototransfers and photographs of sketches; 1.2.2 Original drawings. Descriptions with specific details regarding form and content are provided with subseries, and volume or folder level descriptions. Authorship of the sketches is hard to determine, at least 7 distinct artists' work appears repeatedly throughout the collection. Stylistically they vary greatly, from very precise drawing and color application, to much looser line and dabs of color. Some of the figure drawings indicate classic training, in other instances figure appears stiff, faces cartoonish, yet other artists favor stylized figure. There are differences in color application as well, ranging from masterful technique in watercolor for transparent and light fabrics accentuated with gouache for effect of raised texture or embroidery, to carefully applied opaque, flat, vibrant color with incredibly detailed textile pattern or texture. Bulk of the sketches are not signed, those that are signed rarely were signed in full; among those - Louise Schabacker, Mary Keene, Marie Cook, Ethel Rabin (reproductions of sketches mid-to-late 1920s); other artists supplied initials, abbreviation, or pictogram, in some instances only first or only last name - Bob (possibly Robert Kalloch), Alison, Dorothy, Barker (Shirley Barker), Mand T. (or Mond T.) W. Ward. In some cases name is too difficult to decipher for example - "Albalverton" has been signed in few different ways, and most likely deciphered incorrectly. Many times sketches are signed "Lucile", but that name was signed by many, in variety of styles, and could mean among other things: sign of intellectual and/or physical ownership of the Lucile, Ltd., or a sign of approval by lead designer. Items --US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.2.6-34 are sketches arranged by the type of clothing; although rarely dated, those dated are from 1920, 1921, and 1922, some of the material might predate or be of later dates than indicated. For years 1916, 1917-1918 see US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.2.1-5

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