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Rosine perfume fans, circa 1920
US NNFIT SC.336 · Colección · circa 1920

Two paper and wood promotional fans for the French perfume company Rosine, which was founded by couturier Paul Poiret in 1911. Printed on both sides, one side with abstract botanicals and the other side with the name of the company and a selection of perfumes. Each fan bears a red sticker with the name of a single perfume. The fan would have been scented with that perfume. The fans were part of a series promoting different fragrances. Advertisements, the perfume bottles, and associated products like perfumed cards or fans were all part of Poiret's merchandising artistry.

Sin título
US NNFIT SC.336.2 · Unidad documental simple · circa 1920
Parte de Rosine perfume fans, circa 1920

This is a paper and wood fan created to promote perfume created by Paul Poiret's perfume company Rosine. The front bears a brightly colored naïve landscape seen through a yellow fence created by a student in the École Martine. The rear is segmented and printed radially with the names of the Rosine perfumes. A red sticker on the back of the fan indicates that it was scented with the perfume "Le fruit défendu."

US NNFIT SC.477 · Colección · 1913- circa 1920

This collection consists of two matted pochoir prints:
-one depicting the torso of a woman in a pink ensemble holding a blue feather, limited edition, 19/30, 1913-1914
-one depicting two woman and one man viewing prints on paper, original 1912, print 1920

Sin título
US NNFIT SC.336.1 · Unidad documental simple · circa 1920
Parte de Rosine perfume fans, circa 1920

This is a paper and wood fan created to promote perfume created by Paul Poiret's perfume company Rosine. The front bears a brightly colored naïve landscape seen through an arbor tunnel created by a student in the École Martine. The rear is segmented and printed radially with the names of the Rosine perfumes. A red sticker on the back of the fan indicates that it was scented with the perfume "L'Etrange Fleur."

Tennis Players
US NNFIT SC.214.7.40 · folder · 1921
Parte de Eleanor Lambert collection, 1942-2003

This folder contains a press release about aviatrix Amy Mollison and a 8x10" black and white photograph of tennis player Helen Wills dated Aug. 17, 1921.

Congressional items, 1921
US NNFIT SC.217.1.2.5 · folder · 1921
Parte de Edward Moir collection, 1865-1964

This folder contains a copy of a proposed bill, a calendar for the Committee on Finance, and typed comments on testimony given by John P. Wood (President of the National Association of Wool Manufacturers).

Ideal Scrapbook, Show Programs, f.1of3
US NNFIT SC.1.3.4 · folder · 1913-1923
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Programs from Lucile, Ltd. fashion shows from 1913 through 1923 (not a complete run). Programs pasted on the pages of scrapbook are not in chronological order. Garments listed in the programs are numbered and named. Each of these ensembles have a brief description noting clothing type, colors, fabrics, and trimmings. Some are also notated with prices of each garment by hand, suggesting that the program indicating a master copy. Some of the programs do not have the title page indicating the date or season of the line. [Should be verified: Model photographs of four (4) of the lines are part of this collection; Autumn 1916 -US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.7-9 (box#3), Autumn 1917 - US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.10-12 (box#4), Autumn 1919 - US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.18-21 (box#7 & box#8), Spring 1917 - US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.31-35 (box#12 & box#13).] At the end of the folder is a letter from the former staff of Lucile, Ltd. to Lady Duff Gordon, a ticket and invitation to a September 22, 1922 private showing of the Fall and Winter collections designed by Evelyn McHorter for J.M. Gidding & Company, an enterprise that bought Lucile, Ltd. List of programs in order of arrangement: 1. Fall 1913; 2. Spring 1923; 3. Fall 1923 and Fall 1922; 4. Spring 1920 and Spring 1919; 5. Fall 1920; 6. Fall 1919; 7. Spring 1918 and Spring 1917; 8. Fall 1914; 9. Fall 1916 and 1917; 10. 5-leave program with no cover page; 11. 1-leave program with no cover page.

US NNFIT SC.1.2.2 · sub-series · 1910s-1920s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

4.6 linear feet - The bulk of original drawings are from early 1920s. This part of the collection has several arrangements, by year, season, or type of clothing - such as Evening Wear, Evening Gowns, Theatrical Wear, Wraps and Coats, Pajamas and Negligees, and Wedding Gowns. 2 volumes document lines by year and season (1916, 1917-1918). Sketches rendered in several distinct styles, by multiple artists. Some illustrations very carefully drawn and colored with great attention to detail (most consistent example 1916 sketches), drawings from later period captivate as much for the style of execution as the subject they portray (Theatrical costume). Loose sketches collected into volumes by clothing type make up the bulk of the subseries (fragments of scrapbooks' cover artwork can be seen in 1.3.6). Drawn on a heavy board in various techniques, predominantly ink, gouache, and watercolor, some accentuated with gold and silver. There are many cases where it is especially difficult to attribute the purpose of the garment, a tea gown or theatrical costume maybe misinterpreted/misattributed, since Lucile designed for themed occasions, theater and revue, where risque outfits were required; evening gowns designed for the stage actresses may have become part of the evening wear collection. Most of the loose sketches have rusty staple marks on them.

Sketches, Wedding Gowns, 1920s, v.72
US NNFIT SC.1.2.2.6-7 · volume · 1920s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Loose 40 sketches, wedding gowns from the 1920s (old-volume 72), in 2 folders Sketches numbered .1 to .40. Executed in a variety of styles by multiple artists that can be recognized throughout the collection, at least seven distinct artists. Mostly unsigned, and undated. One signed Mand T., and one stamped "Lucile Staff Inc. 22 East 56th St."

Directional folder x03
US NNFIT SC.1.2.2.17-20.x03 · folder · 1920s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Directional folder contains 51 black and white photocopies of Coats and Wraps sketches from 1920's. Original sketches are glued in the 1916 scrapbook [SEE--US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.2.1-3 for originals]. Sketches come from Berley Studios (subscription service), signature of Ethel Rabin can be seen on some, but for the most part the Berley Studios imprint is covered by that of Lucile Ltd., in some cases the signature of Ethel Rabin (of Berley Studios) is scratched out or otherwise obscured. They seem to be color phototransfers, not original drawings.

US NNFIT SC.1.2.2.31-34 · volume · 1920s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Loose 91 Millinery and Theatrical Wear sketches from 1920's in (old-volume .74) in 4 folders. Three folders contain drawings of theatrical costumes, fourth folder houses sketches of theatrical head-wear. Each sketch is drafted in pencil and painted in gouache. Some sketches have notes pertaining to color, fit, or material, and some are signed by different illustrators or designers associated with Lucile, Ltd.. one of them signed "bob" [Robert Kalloch], W. Ward. Several dated "Lucile 1920" and 1921. In the first folder There are some striking example of Russian themed designs with interpretations of traditional headdress "kokoshnik"; In a sketch .19(?) "onion" shaped domes of Vasilievskyj [St. Basil's] Sobor are drawn in the background. Second folder has several period costumes, and a sketch with caption "Little Old New York" [?for a play in "Follie" with Marion Davies?]

Mixed materials, circa 1915-1925
US NNFIT SC.1.3 · Serie · circa 1915-1925
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

2.3 linear feet - Mixed materials divided into following subseries: 1.3.1 Interior photographs; 1.3.2 Personalities; 1.3.3 Assorted model photographs; 1.3.4 Show programs; 1.3.5 Articles and promotional materials; 1.3.6 Scrapbook covers; 1.3.7 Fashion plates, inspirational materials; Some of these materials are duplicated by photocopy (show programs and articles) when possible please use instead of original material.

Ideal Scrapbook, Clippings, f.2of3
US NNFIT SC.1.3.5.1 · folder · 1910s-1925
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Article entitled "Studies in Smartness" written by Miss Violet Vanbrugh as well as a Christmas card and a Business card. One program from an exhibition of Gera Mills' fabric used in garments made by Vionnet, Lelong, Patou, Paquin, Cheuir, Premet, Renee, Doucet, Doeuille, and Bernard. 1-Two page spread (pp. 18-21) from the December 22, 1925 issue of Women's Wear Daily; amusements page and a page dedicated to fur fashion, with advertisements and columns about the popular furs of the time.

US NNFIT SC.1.3.31 · sub-series · 1910-1925
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Photocopies of "The Ideal Scrapbook", the originals of which are housed in Box #30, US.NNFIT.SC.1.3.4 and US.NNFIT.SC.1.5.1-2. This box also contains photocopies of programs and articles of which the originals are missing from "The Ideal Scrapbook".

US NNFIT SC.217.1.2.2 · volume · 1909 - 1925
Parte de Edward Moir collection, 1865-1964

From the front page: "A collection of 172 statements published since January, 1909, for the purpose of securing wise legislation affecting the production and distribution of wool and wool goods. 1-120 Wool Tariff, 121-138 Wool Labeling, 139-159 Textile Miscellany. Supplement 160-172 Wool and Textile Miscellany by various writers."

Sketches, Period Gowns, 1920s, v.74
US NNFIT SC.1.2.2.13-14 · volume · 1920s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Loose 50 sketches of period costumes from early 1920s, (old-volume .74), in 2 folders. Interpretations of historical costume, ethnic garments, and theatrical costumes. Sketches with titles like "Moyen Age", "Italian", "Egyptian" and "Hindu" (the latter has a note "for Miss Van Cliff"). According to notes on the drawings some designs are for stage productions: "Miss Claire Act I", "Act 2, Scene 2"; some of the designs are variations of the same outfit; some with swatches of fabrics attached. In the second folder (US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.2.14) there is a group of drawings of robes/suits of Chinese inspired pants and tunics that were bound in small portfolio, some of these drawings are signed by Dorothy, Barker, Alison, Mand T., one of them is stamped on verso with "Marie Cook 58 West 57th st.", and "Lucile Staff, Inc."

US NNFIT SC.1.2.2.17-20 · volume · 1920s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Loose 91 sketches of Coats and Wraps bulk from mid-1920s, (old-volume .75). In addition to the original drawings there are black and white photocopies of sketches [See: --US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.2.1-3 for originals] from late mid to late 1920s; many of these sketches are signed by Ethel Rabin, who worked for Berley Studios, a fashion drawing subscription service. Some of the designs seem to be from mid 1920s. .33 has a note "Jean Patou Coat 1925". Cloche hat accessorises some of the designs. Of note are designs of textiles with patterns and embroidery of far east are focus of some of the designs - .45, .49, .52, .53, .62, this is not an exhaustive list) Few signed by Louise Schabacker; eight drawings stamped with "Lucile Staff, Inc" (.63, .64, .66, .67, .68, .69, .71, .72, .85) In many drawings a woman has a red hair. Some notes with customers' names "Evelyn McHorter Miss R. Beatly", "Miss Hopkins"; some carry notes regarding prices and materials .86 "Furr Extra Price $375."; last sketch .91 has a stage note "1st Act"

US NNFIT SC.1.2.2.21-24 · volume · 1920s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Loose 91 sketches (old-volume .76), in 4 folders. Early 1920s designs of theatrical costumes, evening wear, fancy dress, lingerie and swimwear. Designs are drafted in pencil and painted in gouache or watercolor. Many of the sketches are of theatrical costumes, some of the sketches are for nudity revealing garments. Eight drawings are dated and signed "Lucile 1921". A blond woman with golden hair appears drawn in some sketches. Among the artists recognizable throughout (Louise Schabacker, Mand T, etc.) one sketch signed "M. Willis". Some sketches indicate customer: third item in the first folder "Helen Lyons", .35 "Miss Martin", "For Miss Berry", "Madame Adelaide Fieldm...[illegible]". On several drawing note reads "fitted-gone", one has note "Mc?lan[illegible] says OK for stage". On several occasions several variations of the same outfit appear, as an example .55 and .57 are for the same dress, .39-.42 use same elements of costume in different ways.

US NNFIT SC.1.3.7.4 · volume · 1920s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Box #34 - Bound scrapbook of 484 newspaper and magazine clippings of costume sketches. Gathered to about 15 to a page, these clippings are collaged in the book. None of the sketches related to a Lucile design. Some of the cut outs have notes on them about colors and fabrics, such as "gown of pale citron yellow chiffon in two shades with trailing effect of drapery and girdle of green and gray satin, green leaves forming the decoration. Introduced by Helen Paul, Inc". Toward the end of the scrapbook, on page 29, the year "1926" is written in the margin.

US NNFIT SC.1.3.box#32 · sub-series · 1918-1925
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Bound scrapbook with articles written by Lady Duff Gordon or about Lucile, Ltd. from 1919, and 4 folder of photocopies of these articles to protect against further deterioration. Articles are the product of a clipping service with multiple copies of the same few articles from different publications.

US NNFIT SC.1.2 · Serie · 1915-1920s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

5.5 linear feet - Sketches series are divided into following subseries: 1.2.1 phototransfers and photographs of sketches; 1.2.2 Original drawings. Descriptions with specific details regarding form and content are provided with subseries, and volume or folder level descriptions. Authorship of the sketches is hard to determine, at least 7 distinct artists' work appears repeatedly throughout the collection. Stylistically they vary greatly, from very precise drawing and color application, to much looser line and dabs of color. Some of the figure drawings indicate classic training, in other instances figure appears stiff, faces cartoonish, yet other artists favor stylized figure. There are differences in color application as well, ranging from masterful technique in watercolor for transparent and light fabrics accentuated with gouache for effect of raised texture or embroidery, to carefully applied opaque, flat, vibrant color with incredibly detailed textile pattern or texture. Bulk of the sketches are not signed, those that are signed rarely were signed in full; among those - Louise Schabacker, Mary Keene, Marie Cook, Ethel Rabin (reproductions of sketches mid-to-late 1920s); other artists supplied initials, abbreviation, or pictogram, in some instances only first or only last name - Bob (possibly Robert Kalloch), Alison, Dorothy, Barker (Shirley Barker), Mand T. (or Mond T.) W. Ward. In some cases name is too difficult to decipher for example - "Albalverton" has been signed in few different ways, and most likely deciphered incorrectly. Many times sketches are signed "Lucile", but that name was signed by many, in variety of styles, and could mean among other things: sign of intellectual and/or physical ownership of the Lucile, Ltd., or a sign of approval by lead designer. Items --US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.2.6-34 are sketches arranged by the type of clothing; although rarely dated, those dated are from 1920, 1921, and 1922, some of the material might predate or be of later dates than indicated. For years 1916, 1917-1918 see US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.2.1-5

US NNFIT SC.1.2.2.25-30 · volume · 1920s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Loose 93 sketches in 6 folders. 2 folders with 65 sketches of theatrical costumes from early 1920s, (old-volume .77), 28 sketches in 4 folders assembled from other parts of collection for better access. Sketches are drafted in pencil and colored in gouache, and some have swatches of fabrics. A note on .28 reads: "Sketches should be returned at the earliest possible moment. A charge of $6 will be made for each sketch that is not returned to me." Some intended clients' names noted: .31 "Miss Bebe Daniels" (she was an American actress, singer, dancer and producer), "Miss Julia Hoyt", "Miss Peterson". 5 identified Ziegfeld Follies sketches are in this container as well: "Directorie 1795-1800, "Gothic, "Russian". There are more of the same style sketches in another folder: "Sharrah" (two sketches have this name) ; "Louis XIV"; "Venetian"; and "Venice". Several sketches signed and dated "Lucile 1920", 1921 and 1922.

US NNFIT SC.1.2.2.25-30.26 · folder · 1920s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

9 theatrical costume sketches by Lucile from 1921, five of which are annotated with names. These names are: "Sharrah" (two sketches have this name) ; "Louis XIV"; "Venetian"; and "Venice". All of these sketches were drafted in pencil and painted with gouache. There are two sketches of a theatrical headdress. old-US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.1.16.4 - sketch of female head drawn in pencil, wearing a tall semi-bell crown hat (type of a top hat) with an adornment. Hat is painted in gold. Adornment is a half-opened fan shape, sea-green with magenta triangle in the center.