This collection contains sixty-six original sketches (23 pencil and watercolor and 43 pencil) by Marc Bohan for Christian Dior with fabric swatches attached. All on Christian Dior letterhead.
Bohan, Marc64 photographs, models #37-#91
Disbound scrapbook, 66 photographs, Foreign orders 1919, in 3 folders. In US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.23 are two lists/receipts with orders in French Francs. The photographs are taken in the garden with a fountain, trees, some in sunshine, as well as inside the room with large with either large painting in a background or a stage set. Photographic prints themselves are of larger format than usually seen throughout the collection.
10 (ten) loose photographs documenting ensembles, each encased in Mylar. There are seven photographs of full ensembles, one of which is mounted on Masonite. The remaining three photographs are of hat designs from 1919.
77 photographs. The ensembles documented in this folder are numbered #1-#7, 11, 19, 25, 32, 35, 38, #43 -#65, and #67-#69.
77 photographs, models #48-#92; mostly dresses and gowns.
32 photographs, models #79-#102
From 3 disbound scrapbooks, 175 photographs from mid 1910s. Fall, T.
96 photographs
73 photographs of sketches and phototransfers, few items dated, one 29 March 1916, and one 1916
4.6 linear feet - The bulk of original drawings are from early 1920s. This part of the collection has several arrangements, by year, season, or type of clothing - such as Evening Wear, Evening Gowns, Theatrical Wear, Wraps and Coats, Pajamas and Negligees, and Wedding Gowns. 2 volumes document lines by year and season (1916, 1917-1918). Sketches rendered in several distinct styles, by multiple artists. Some illustrations very carefully drawn and colored with great attention to detail (most consistent example 1916 sketches), drawings from later period captivate as much for the style of execution as the subject they portray (Theatrical costume). Loose sketches collected into volumes by clothing type make up the bulk of the subseries (fragments of scrapbooks' cover artwork can be seen in 1.3.6). Drawn on a heavy board in various techniques, predominantly ink, gouache, and watercolor, some accentuated with gold and silver. There are many cases where it is especially difficult to attribute the purpose of the garment, a tea gown or theatrical costume maybe misinterpreted/misattributed, since Lucile designed for themed occasions, theater and revue, where risque outfits were required; evening gowns designed for the stage actresses may have become part of the evening wear collection. Most of the loose sketches have rusty staple marks on them.
51 sketches, models #1-#57
43 sketches, models #1-#49, 10 annotated empty pages
Loose 40 sketches, wedding gowns from the 1920s (old-volume 72), in 2 folders Sketches numbered .1 to .40. Executed in a variety of styles by multiple artists that can be recognized throughout the collection, at least seven distinct artists. Mostly unsigned, and undated. One signed Mand T., and one stamped "Lucile Staff Inc. 22 East 56th St."
25 sketches .1-.25, volume .74
24 sketches .41-.64 in volume .73, Negligees and Pajamas.
24 sketches .51 - .75 of coats and wraps. Sketches numbered .57, .58, and .72 are missing from this location.
Directional folder contains 51 black and white photocopies of Coats and Wraps sketches from 1920's. Original sketches are glued in the 1916 scrapbook [SEE--US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.2.1-3 for originals]. Sketches come from Berley Studios (subscription service), signature of Ethel Rabin can be seen on some, but for the most part the Berley Studios imprint is covered by that of Lucile Ltd., in some cases the signature of Ethel Rabin (of Berley Studios) is scratched out or otherwise obscured. They seem to be color phototransfers, not original drawings.
Loose 91 Millinery and Theatrical Wear sketches from 1920's in (old-volume .74) in 4 folders. Three folders contain drawings of theatrical costumes, fourth folder houses sketches of theatrical head-wear. Each sketch is drafted in pencil and painted in gouache. Some sketches have notes pertaining to color, fit, or material, and some are signed by different illustrators or designers associated with Lucile, Ltd.. one of them signed "bob" [Robert Kalloch], W. Ward. Several dated "Lucile 1920" and 1921. In the first folder There are some striking example of Russian themed designs with interpretations of traditional headdress "kokoshnik"; In a sketch .19(?) "onion" shaped domes of Vasilievskyj [St. Basil's] Sobor are drawn in the background. Second folder has several period costumes, and a sketch with caption "Little Old New York" [?for a play in "Follie" with Marion Davies?]
2.3 linear feet - Mixed materials divided into following subseries: 1.3.1 Interior photographs; 1.3.2 Personalities; 1.3.3 Assorted model photographs; 1.3.4 Show programs; 1.3.5 Articles and promotional materials; 1.3.6 Scrapbook covers; 1.3.7 Fashion plates, inspirational materials; Some of these materials are duplicated by photocopy (show programs and articles) when possible please use instead of original material.
0.4 linear foot - Personalities - photographs of stage actresses and society women
Disbound scrapbook, 41 photographs of society women and/or actresses of theatrical garments. Most of the names that are written on the backs of the photographs or the scrapbook pages are listed here: Kitty Gordon, Eleanor Griffith, Dorothy Dickson, Annette Bade, Pearl White, Kathlyn Martyn, Mes. Philip Hummel, Francine Larrimore, Dorothy Shoemaker, inscription 'Mis Vivian Martin - star of "Just Married" '. Photographs by S.A. Johnston and Joel Feder. Further research is needed to determine the role and prominence of these women in the world of theater or society they were part of. [MOVED in from old-US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.1.16.3 - 3 photographs of actresses - (1) Kitty Gordon and (2) Bertha Kalich (aka Kalish) dedicated to McHorter, and (3) famous Irene Castle dedicated to Mr. Tolman (Manager of Lucile Ltd. of New York)]
3 photographs. Two of the photographs are dedicated to E. McHortrer; one from Kitty Gordon and another from Bertha Kalich (aka Kalish), both actresses. Third photograph is of famous Irene Castle dedicated to Mr. Tolman.
0.1 linear foot - Assorted model photographs and sketches
4 hand colored Lucile sketches from 1910s +1 fashion plate on verso. These sketches were pasted in a scrapbook among the fashion plates, and were moved here for easier access. They seem to be phototransfers rather than originals.
Article entitled "Studies in Smartness" written by Miss Violet Vanbrugh as well as a Christmas card and a Business card. One program from an exhibition of Gera Mills' fabric used in garments made by Vionnet, Lelong, Patou, Paquin, Cheuir, Premet, Renee, Doucet, Doeuille, and Bernard. 1-Two page spread (pp. 18-21) from the December 22, 1925 issue of Women's Wear Daily; amusements page and a page dedicated to fur fashion, with advertisements and columns about the popular furs of the time.
Newspaper articles about Lucile and/or written by Lady Duff Gordon that date as far back as 1910. Some are articles about the company's legal struggle. There are also a couple of articles about another Lady Duff Gordon who was an Egyptian explorer at the time. There is documentation of Lucile's beginnings and rise to fame, and review of the early work.
Photocopies of most of the articles from the scrapbook in the same box. Not all articles were duplicated to protect against further deterioration of materials.
Fragment of scrapbook cover
Fragment of scrapbook cover
Fragment of scrapbook cover
Photocopies of "The Ideal Scrapbook", the originals of which are housed in Box #30, US.NNFIT.SC.1.3.4 and US.NNFIT.SC.1.5.1-2. This box also contains photocopies of programs and articles of which the originals are missing from "The Ideal Scrapbook".
Photocopies of items missing from "The Ideal Scrapbook" housed in slipcase 15. There are photocopies of covers from programs that are not present in the scrapbook, such as Lucile, Ltd. Fall 1918 and Spring 1915 covers. There are also photocopies of an article entitled "My Diary", a photocopy of a cover of "Les Ides Novelles de la Mode", and a photocopy of an article from February 17, 1918.
11 mounted color photocopies of Wedding Dresses
This collection contains two Schocking de Schiaparelli perfume bottles in their original packing and one example of the packaging for Schiaparelli lipstick.
Schiaparelli, Elsa, 1890-1973This collection contains one partially full cardboard tube of Shocking de Schiaparelli bath sponges.
Schiaparelli, Elsa, 1890-1973This collection contains materials related to Ruth Finley (b.1920, Haverville, MA). The majority of the collection consists of published versions of the periodicals Fashion Calendar and the Fashion International from 1947-2014. The collection also includes published and draft copies of Fashion Calendar, Fashion International, Home Furnishing Calendar, Fashion Trade Calendar, and New York Fashion Council. It also includes business related materials in the form of advertising, membership and subscription information for each publication. The collection includes personal records collected by Ruth Finley, including emails, programs from fashion shows, information about awards, and images.
Finley, Ruth, 1920-2018This sub-series contains seventeen original ink and water color sketches of women's outerwear.
Hand-colored carte-de-visite depicting Neapolitan fishers, a man and a woman, with baskets.
Hand-colored carte-de-visite depciting a man playing a bagpipe. Full caption: "Stuart Inverness. When ordering duplicates please give the No."
Stuart of Inverness15 sketches of both women’s wear and men’s wear reproduced in color. The sketches are dated from Fall/Winter 1982/83 to Fall/Winter 1992/93 and represent some of Mugler’s sportswear and eveningwear lines.
Mugler, Manfred ThierryThis collection contains fashion sketches (originals and digital facsimiles), fashion photographs, and press/promotional materials documenting the career of Stephen Burrows in the fashion industry from 1969-2012. There is a gap of press materials from 1990-2000 when he left Henri Bendel to open his own business on seventh avenue. His fragrance named, Stephen B., is briefly documented in photographs, press, and a silver wave necklace solid perfume. Ephemeral materials such as personal photographs and an E.R.A ribbon are also a part of the collection.
Burrows, Stephen, 1943-This folder contains sketches by Stephen Burrows from 1973-2011.
This subseries contains inkjet photographs of various garment by Stephen Burrows from the 1970's.
This series contains press materials such as magazines and newspaper clippings relating to Stephen Burrows from 1969-2012. Press from these years are also housed in black artfolios according to date.
This subseries contains press materials for Stephen Burrows from 1969-1981. Press from these years are also housed in black artfolios according to date.
This subseries contains presentation booklets/invitations from Stephen Burrows from 1974-2010.
This folder contains catalogs and accompanying materials relating to the MCNY Exhibition: Stephen Burrows: A Retrospective, along with other materials relating to runway shows.
This series contains McCall's patterns of Stephen Burrows designs from the 1970's.
This folder contains six McCall's patterns of Stephen Burrows designs from the 1970's. Garment patterns range from loungewear and wrap dresses to complete outfits with separates.
This folder contains photocopied sketches of garments, mostly dresses and day ensembles from Spring 1978. Collections details include: embroidery, printed silks.
This folder contains photocopied sketches of garments, mostly dresses and day ensembles from Summer Couture 1978. Collections details include: embroidery, printed silks.
This folder contains photocopied sketches of garments, mostly dresses and day ensembles from Resort, Spring, Summer 1980s. Collection details include: florals, polka dot, printed tulle.
This folder contains photocopied sketches of garments, mostly dresses and day ensembles from Spring Resort 1984. Swatches 829-865 have no sketch attached.
This folder contains photocopied sketches of garments, mostly dresses and day ensembles from Spring 1984. Collection details include: crepe, faux leather, lame, moire, velvet.
This folder contains photocopied sketches of garments, mostly dresses and day ensembles from Spring 1984. Collection details include: florals, lace, polka dot, sequins, star prints.