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John Touhey coursework
US NNFIT SC.FITA.3.20.4.9.0.9 · folder · 1978
Part of Academic Affairs records

Coursework of John Touhey from his attendance of the Columbia Oral History Program. Includes oral history interview conducted by Touhey with Ann McCoy Wyeth.

US NNFIT SC.FITA.3.20.4.9.1 · sub-sub-sub-series · 1977-2011 bulk 1977-1990
Part of Academic Affairs records

The Oral History Project of the Fashion Industries began informally in the late 1970s, and was officially funded by a grant from the Educational Foundation for the Fashion Industries beginning in 1981. The project was guided by an industry advisory committee chaired by Mrs. William Randolph Hearst, Jr., and was largely guided by then director of the Gladys Marcus Library at FIT, John Touhey.

US NNFIT SC.FITA.3.20.4.9.1.11 · item · 1986 May
Part of Academic Affairs records

In this interview Liz Claiborne sat down with Estelle Ellis to discuss all aspects of Liz Claiborne Inc. Aware that her label represents a promise between her brand and the customer, Claiborne insists on being a part of every aspect of the design process for each label, from the initial color choices (which Claiborne stresses as being of paramount importance) to the final sample edits. Claiborne reveals the difficulties she faces when working with the menswear and childrenswear departments. In explaining why the Liz Claiborne company hires so many interns, Claiborne makes a point to explain the importance of learning on the job.

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US NNFIT SC.FITA.3.20.4.9.1.12 · item · 1990 July 10 and 17
Part of Academic Affairs records

This interview with Liz Claiborne discusses her experiences as she worked her way up as a designer. She describes her past work with designers and firms such as Ben Reig, Omar Kiam, Dave Schwartz, Juniorite, and the Rhea manufacturing company. Claiborne provides insight to the growth of her own company and all of the factors that go into the production of it.

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US NNFIT SC.FITA.3.20.4.9.1.126 · item · 1979 November 13, 16, and 20
Part of Academic Affairs records

Robert L. Green interviews Pauline Trigère in part one. In part two, we see the different phases of garment production at Trigère, Inc. with an inside look at Mme Trigère cutting a coat and making decisions about fabrics and designs.
Three interviews between Robert L. Green of the Fashion Institute of Technology and American fashion designer, Pauline Trigere. This first interview covers Trigere's arrival in New York City from Paris in 1937, her start in fashion through the coat business run by her husband and by her brother, her brief work at Ben Gershel as Travis Benton's assistant, and then her work as assistant designer at Hattie Carnegie. Trigere explains how this last job led to her opening her own business in 1942, which turns the conversation towards the long work required in fashion and the over saturation of the fashion design field. Trigere also speaks repeatedly of American fashion and French fashion, and the importance of "style" versus "fashion" and how she has tried to make "style" a key element in her designs. Toward the end of the interview, Trigere comments on her ability to change over time, in taste and opinion. She then goes on to speak of her stature as an American designer and how it has affected her. In the second interview, Trigere goes further into the topic of the American fashion designer and the relationship between French couture and American design. The beginning of the conversation covers the effects of WWII on fashion, specifically in America. Trigere returns to the story of her time working under Travis Banton at Hattie Carnegie, which leads from Banton's style to Trigere's own style. Trigere's process of creating a collection is described at length and there is some discussion of the fashion press. In addition to her design process, Trigere discusses her use of store-wide meetings and the importance of the sales team. There is some discussion of architecture, sculpture, and the modern use of space in interiors. Trigere talks about the necessity of compromise over time in regards to materials and there is a lengthy discussion about knowing the customer, and how she may differ by region. This conversation focuses on Palm Beach and ends with an acknowledgment of the power of influence and exposure. In the third interview Trigere returns to a number of topics which were briefly mentioned in the first two interviews. In particular, Trigere starts with the full story of how she became close with American fashion designer Adele Simpson. Next, she elaborates on the role of her longtime assistant, Lucie Porges. Porges and Trigere had been working together for 28 years at the time of this interview. This leads to a discussion on the role of the assistant in the fashion world and the role of the designer in guiding her assistants. Trigere, who was teaching at the Fashion Institute of Technology at the time of this interview, shares her beliefs regarding the best methods of educating future designers. Trigere's process of draping is explored along with her full creative process. In discussing the skills required to conduct proper fittings, Trigere touches on the changing couture client. A brief discussion on the art of packing and shopping for a careful wardrobe turns to a discussion on the changing economy and its effect on fashion. The recession is not explicitly mentioned but this interview did take place at the time of the oil crisis in America. In regards to authenticity, Trigere compares Parisian couture copies to American knock-offs, arguing that these are two different scenarios. Trigere's hiring of black model Beverly Valdes in 1961 is discussed in the context of 7th avenue fashion's resistance to non-white models. Before discussing her own beliefs and personal life, Trigere describes the ideal "Trigere Woman" to be an educated family woman who is dynamic and not frivolous. Trigere's personal beliefs and home life are discussed with special focus on her connection to turtles, her early life as an immigrant, family, her country house: 'La Tortue', her students, and her passion for gardening. The conversation ends with a discussion on the difficulty of keeping work and personal life separate.

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US NNFIT SC.FITA.3.20.4.9.1.132 · item · 1979 December 12
Part of Academic Affairs records

In this interview, Robert L. Green interviews award-winning costume designer Patricia Zipprodt in her studio. They discusses the process of designing costumes for the theater and her use of apprentices to help with costume research.

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US NNFIT SC.FITA.3.20.4.9.1.2 · item · 1977 December 8
Part of Academic Affairs records

On December 8, 1977, Phyllis Feldkamp sat down with Eleanor Lambert to discuss Lambert’s decades-long career. Lambert reveals her first steps into the fashion industry as an art student in the midwest and how she got her start in New York City. Lambert touches on many aspects of the New York fashion industry of the mid-century, sharing tidbits about the American designers with whom she crossed paths. Lambert elucidates her involvement with helping establish The Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art as well as her varied roles in working with The New York Dress Institute, The Couture Group and Press Week, The Council of Fashion Designers of America, and The National Council of the Arts. Lambert culminates by discussing her position as coordinator of the COTY American Fashion Critics Awards and an amusing anecdote about Norman Norell, winner of the first “Winnie” award. A fashion show in Moscow, which Lambert had a hand in organizing, acted as somewhat of a dress rehearsal for, arguably, the defining moment of American fashion, the Battle of Versailles. Lambert came up with the idea as a fundraiser for Versailles palace, then in disrepair, and organized the American designers who would represent the country; this show ultimately proved to the world the talent and capability of the American fashion industry.

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