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Arthur Jablow interview, 1982 May 14

Arthur Jablow reflecting on his father-in-law, Maurice Rentner. There is a most interesting section in the Oral Memoirs of Maurice Rentner, (his father-in-law) which provides considerable insight into other facets of the ready-to-wear business.

Jablow, Arthur

Bergdorf Goodman oral history, 1977 and 1994, bulk 1994

With an interview of Andrew Goodman conducted by Bob Riley in 1977 as the root, Estelle Ellis and Valerie Steele extended this oral history of Bergdorf Goodman in 1997 by interviewing others who worked for Bergdorf Goodman and knew Andrew Goodman.

Symposium records

Includes the advertisitng flyer, schedule of events, papers, and presentations delivered at the 2014 Symposium "Modes of Modernity The Ephemeral & the Eternal in 20th Century Fashion" which occurred on Saturday, May 10, 2014. Eleven Graduate Students from the Department of Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice delivered presentations. Each presenter's paper and presentation is represented. Denyse Montegut delivered the welcoming address and Rachel Baum and Lourdes Font gave an introduction entitled, "Defining Modernism in Fashion," but their presentations are not included in the files. The names of the presenters and the title of their presentations contained in this folder are: Julia Pehrson, "Everything Old is New Again: Egyptomania in 1920s Fashion;" Kyla Ibanez Katigbak, "Modern Metropolis: The New York Skyline in Textile Design, 1890-1940;" Paula M. Sim, "Modesty is Fashion: Dress Reform in Modern Orthodox Judaism;" Diana Dalmas, "Period Films and the Decline of the Modern, 1930-1953;" Virginia Wilking, "A Well Controlled Body: Constructing the New American Woman of Fashion 1900-1940;" Kristen Haggerty, "Shop Girls: Department Stores and the Fashionable Working Woman;" Kathryn Squitieri, "A Tale of Two Elspeths: Forgotten Coutuerières and Their Impact on Modern Fashion."

Mixed materials, interiors, assorted models, cover art,1910s-1920s

Materials from old--US.NNFIT.1.1.1.16 (Box 1) except for sketches. A mix of photographs of interiors, models and theater personalities. Instead of attempting to locate the context for the model photographs they will be left in this original arrangement, as they might be related to significant developments in Lucile Ltd. existence. For example a title "1 Lake Shore Drive" (No. 40, a winter coat and accessories ensemble) is the address of the Lucile Ltd. in Chicago established in 1915, this model was part of the Fall collection for that year. Interior photos of the "Rose rooms" from Chicago and New York locations are included here too. In addition, this box houses 5 covers of disbound scrapbook volumes.

Symposium records

Includes the papers and presentation delivered at the 2017 Symposium "Dressing New York" on Saturday, May 13, 2017. The names of the presenters and the title of their presentations contained in this folder are: Lucy Carey "The Great Divide of 1960: Norman Norell's Coulotte" ; Sarah Jean Culbreth "'Who Are the Mystery Girls?': Deconstructing the New York Doll's Image ; Loggans "Fantaies of Opulence: Racial Dynamics of Drag Balls in New York City, 1890-1969" ; Daniel Gustina "Depression Era New York: Dress & Photographs of Fashionable Society" .

Yearbook: Portfolio, 1946-2012

The yearbooks document F.I.T.'s graduating class, academic programs, and student life. The yearbooks also often document F.I.T.'s faculty and administration. The yearbooks may include a message from the current president of the college, students' artwork and writing, and images of student fashion shows. Some yearbooks describe recent developments of the college or provide a broad history of the college. The yearbook was titled Portfolio, starting in 1961.

Symposium records

Includes the papers and presentation delivered at the 2017 Symposium "Dressing New York" on Saturday, May 13, 2017. The names of the presenters and the title of their presentations contained in this folder are: Chelsea Payne "A Fading Custom: The Reluctant Disappearance of Dressmaking in New York" ; Hannah Benson "Hickson: Unraveling a New York City Fashion House 1914-1923" ; Harper Franklin "Eternally Ladylike: Sophie of Saks, 1929-1969" ; Lily Fehler "Protest and Professionalism: Dress of Early Female Doctors who Chose Reform Costume or Masculine Attire" .

Symposium records

Includes the papers and presentation delivered at the 2017 Symposium "Dressing New York" on Saturday, May 13, 2017. The names of the presenters and the title of their presentations contained in this folder are: Nancy MacDonell "'A Good Designer Need Not Breathe the Air of Paris.' Lois Long on Elizabeth Hawes and Muriel King" ; Blair Lenz "Through the Glass: A Look at New York City Window Dressing, 1935-1950" .

Symposium records

This folder includes digital copies of the papers and presentations delivered at the 2020 Symposium, which occurred completely online due to restrictions placed upon students and faculty due to the Coronavirus Pandemic, 2020. The names of the presenters and the title of their presentations contained in this folder are:

  • Bobbi Wall - "Ruth Reeves’ Lasting Imprint on Modern American Fashion"
  • Anna Lucia Uihlein: "Louella Ballerino: Fashioning California"
  • Brynnea Irvine: "The Fall of Luxury: The Forgotten History of Farquharson & Wheelock"
  • Molly Hartvigsen: "Tobé-Coburn School for Fashion Careers"
  • Brigid Gerstenecker: "Elizabeth Hawes: Mass Production for the Millions?"

Lester Gribets interview, 1986 November 19

This conversation covers very little of Lester Gribetz' life and career at Bloomingdale's. There is a brief intro in which Gribetz lays out his professional trajectory from trainee under Martin S. Traub to his role in merchandising. Like most of Traub's employees at Bloomingdale's, Gribetz praises Traub as a boss and as a person. He describes him as exciting, challenging, enlightened, and demanding. Gribetz attributes Traub's high standards to keeping workers excited and motivated. Traub is described as charitable in a number of the Bloomingdale's interviews but Gribetz shares a specific story of Traub organizing a massive fundraising effort for AIDS research after one of his buyers passed away from the disease. In describing the retail environment, Gribetz explains that a retail career is demanding and varied, and the hard work has discouraged many where others have thrived. Prompted several times to define Bloomingdale's milestones, Gribetz first discusses the team before Martin S. Traub's era and then the transitions and departmental changes that marked a real turning point with Traub. Bloomingdale's food business is discussed as a distinction among other retailers as well as the elaborate country promotions which were at their peak success at the time of this interview. The Bloomingdale's customer is described as being educated, affluent, adventuresome, and inventive. While Gribetz describes these qualities as being somewhat inherent in New Yorkers, he goes on to say that these ideas are present in customers in all regions and that Bloomingdale's still appeals to the mass market because it grants these qualities upon the customer.

Gribetz, Lester

Terry Schaefer interview, 1986 November 21

This conversation takes place only a few weeks after Schaefer had joined Bloomingdale's as the Vice President of Marketing. Schaefer gives a quick recap of the previous 13 years of his career before talking about his thoughts on his new boss, Marvin S. Traub, as well as his new position at Bloomingdale's. Coming from first a marketing background and then, briefly, a retail background, Schaefer discusses the importance of retailers being fully aware of what people are reading, wearing, listening to, and even eating. This awareness is a qaulity of Traub's that Schaefer praises and which he attributes, in part, to making Bloomingdale's stand out in the retail industry. Schaefer also talks about Bloomingdale's distinguising itself by being a place of diversion, entertainment, and fun as opposed to being simply a mode of distribution. When discussing his job interview for Bloomingdale's, Schaefer recalls being impressed by the amount of thought and planning that evidently went into the future of the store and uses the country promotions as an example.

Schaefer, Terron

FIT Oral histories project

Launched in 1978, an oral history of the fashion industries has been maintained by the Gladys Marcus Library’s Special Collections and Archives department, amassing nearly 375 oral history holdings in various formats, to date, and growing.

In anticipation of FIT's 75th anniversary in 2019, “FIT Talks” was established and institutionalized in [2012?] to make available previously inaccessible content, and to continue to build a rich library of oral histories representative of the fashion and broader creative industries that will be of interest and available to the public at large.

Interviews already include current and former members of the FIT community as well as significant and well-known figures in the fashion industry. For example, charming dialogue about fashion between Princess Grace of Monaco and designer Vera Maxwell is now available to any researcher. Interviews provided through Ford Models, Inc. are also part of the collection.

Gladys Marcus Library

Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

  • US NNFIT SC.1
  • Colección
  • 1863-1935

Collection is comprised of model photographs, sketches, photographs of sketches, show programs, some newspaper and magazine clippings with articles about or by Lucile, order forms, advertisements, and fashion plates. Garment designs include theatrical costumes, wedding gowns, day and evening wear, tea gowns, lingerie and pajamas. Bulk of the collection consists of model photographs, fashion sketches, photographs of sketches and official phototransfers. In addition there are clippings of articles from different publications written by or about Lucile, she wrote regular columns for Hearst publications. Programs for the "Model Parades" introducing lines of clothing for several years. There are some photographs of Lucile's clients, and photographs of "Rose room" interiors of Lucile. Ltd from New York and Chicago locations. Inspirational and reference materials collected by Lucile and/or her staff, mainly fashion plates and newspaper clippings from different publications. Dates range from the early 1910s to the mid 1920s. Model photographs were glued in large format (12-14"w to 16-18"h) standard, blank books to order, referred throughout this finding aid as scrapbooks; there are 12 volumes in the collection. Bulk of original drawings that are arranged according to the type of clothing are loose, drawn on a heavy weight board; sketches for 1916 and 197-18 lines were glued into scrapbooks; there are 12 volumes of original drawings and 2 volumes of photographs and phototransfers. It is possible that two types of arrangement seen throughout the collection (most of Model photographs chronologically, most of sketches by type of clothing) are due to different purpose these materials served; sketches of period gowns or theatrical costumes could have been referred to time and time again for different productions or themed social events, whereas model photographs would have documented actual creation of such a garment at a certain point in time. It is also not clear why, but some scrapbooks with model photographs are reproduced in complete entirety, using same photo session materials some fully annotated.

Duff Gordon, Lucy, Lady

Seymour Troy collection, 1936-1977, bulk 1936-1940

  • US NNFIT SC.105
  • Colección
  • 1936-1977

This collection consists of sketches, shoe patterns, embellishments, photographs, promotional materials, scrapbooks, and metal stamps from women's footwear company Seymour Troy Originals. The majority of the collection is undated, although it is estimated that most of it is from the 1930s and 1940s. At least one piece of promotional material is from yrto, and there is a scrapbook cover stamped with yrto. Previous documentation of the collection noted that some sketches were by other designers for Seymour Troy, and specifically named Emery Blau, Al Lewis, and "Cohen." It appears that the collection was added to after Seymour Troy's death, as there are at least two sketches dated 1977.

Troy, Seymour

Lord & Taylor collection, 1826-2010

  • US NNFIT SC.125
  • Colección
  • 1826-2010

This collection contains scrapbooks and company records related to the Lord and Taylor department stores, primarily focused on the original stores in New York City. The scrapbook series consists of unbound pages of newspaper and magazine clippings of Lord and Taylor stores in New York City and the greater New York Area. Company records include advertising, photographs and illustrations of Lord and Taylor buildings, company catalogs, press releases and clippings, as well as internal company histories authored by Lord and Taylor. A small subseries relates to biographical information and photographs of former Lord and Taylor president Dorothy Shaver.

Lord & Taylor

Elizabeth Hawes papers, 1967-1970

  • US NNFIT SC.149
  • Colección
  • 1967 - 1970

This collection is comprised of working manuscripts and drafts of essays.

Hawes, Elizabeth

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