Volume 20 includes coverage of four of Mainbocher's biannual collections, as well as his designs for prominent socialites like Mrs. William Paley and Mrs. Winston Guest (Babe Paley and C.Z. Guest, respectively). Both ladies were repeatedly on the annual list of the World's Best Dressed Women, put out by the Couture Group of the New York Dress Institute. His Spring 1957 collection was his seventieth to date and he showed long, sheer evening gowns with trains; morning cotton coats over formal clothes; and a variety of prints on cotton and chiffon. For fall 1957, there are photos of his showroom from the September 28 opening. For spring 1958 he showed colorful clothes with both fitted waistlines and fuller sihouettes with barely any waist at all. His suits jackets and skirts were a bit shorter but intrinsically the same. For his Fall 1958 collection he placed emphasis on the top of the silhouette, achieved by the slightly raised waistline and longer line skirt. Folders include a typed contents page and an article from the New Yorker from April 6, 1957.
Eighth of eight in Firehouse Poles Series: ten figures sliding down firehouse poles, holding masks and wearing a variety of pants; Black and white: graphite & gray gouache finished illustration; Signed
Sin títuloSeated figure in short jacket and dirndl skirt; Black and white: marker and wash; Signed center left; Client Anglo Fabrics
Sin títuloThree figures in Art Deco evening gowns with city skyline through window; Black and white: pen and wash; Signed lower right
Sin títuloFigure in gray coat with matching fur hat and collar, washy background; Color: charcoal and watercolor; Signed lower right
Sin títuloFigure in tan raincoat, holding umbrella and scarf; Color: brush and watercolor; Signed lower right
Sin títuloFigure in yellow fur-trimmed suit and muff in park-like setting (framed). "Gift to FIT library from the estate of Robert Knox August 1973. Temps Gris;" Color: watercolor; Signed lower right, Verso: card Galerie Charpentier, Paris; Client Gazette du Bon Ton
Sin títuloElegant family at races with coach in background (framed). "Gift to FIT library from the estate of Robert Knox August 1973. Le Jour des Drags;" Color: watercolor; Signed lower right, Verso: card Galerie Charpentier, Paris; Client Gazette du Bon Ton
Sin títuloTwo girls in brown dresses in wheat field; Color: oil and pastel; Client Joseph Love Collection
Sin títuloTwo girls in blue jumpers on cobblestone street; Color: oil and pastel; Client Joseph Love Collection
Sin títuloTwo girls in velvet dresses at Shakespeare Theater; Color: watercolor and gouache; Client Joseph Love Collection
Sin títuloTwo girls in pink jumpers at dance class. Verso: entry card 9-16-63 for National Horse Show and H.B. Sept. 63, Herald Tribune Nov. 24; Color: oil and charcoal; Client Joseph Love Collection
Sin títuloVolume 21 begins with a continuation of coverage from his Fall 1958 collection and also includes coverage from his Spring 1959 collection. He said the latter grew out of his desire to express his conviction that "a good dress attracts and does not distract." He maintained his use of the higher waistline for some silhouettes, though most of the clothes had a normal waistline. In April, Ladies' Home Journal asked he and Lanvin's designer Castillo to create special wardrobes to be featured in the magazine. Mainbocher designed three ensembles, and the editorial spread is one of the highlights from this scrapbook. In May, there is a lot of newspaper and magazine coverage of the yellow sari gown he designed for Mrs. Henry Ford II for the Metropolitan Opera. This volume also includes articles and photographs of his designs for other prominent socialites such as Mrs. Winston Guest, Mrs. Alfred Corning Clark and Charlotte Ford. The final page is a large original photograph of five Mainbocher models wearing Fall 1958 daytime and evening looks. The single folder contains two small original photographs of Macalester cheerleaders wearing uniforms designed by Mainbocher.
First of three in The Shoe Series: figure in red shirred sheath morphing into a shoe; Color: marker and pastel; Client FIT demonstration
Sin títuloFive girls in white dresses at dance class; Color: oil, charcoal and pencil; Client Joseph Love Collection
Sin títuloTwo girls in sailor pinafores with piano. Verso: NY Times Magazine, September 1961; Color: oil and charcoal; Client Joseph Love Collection
Sin títuloBeauty head with compact and flowing hair; Black and white: charcoal; Signed left center.; Client Bonwit Teller
Sin títuloBack view of cropped figure with three sporty shoulder bags; Black and white: charcoal; Signed left center; Client Bonwit Teller
Sin títuloFigure in black cocktail sheath with overskirt and rosette at waist; Black and white: charcoal; Client Bonwit Teller
Sin títuloThree heads in dressy hats, two brimmed, one with veil; Black and white: charcoal; Signed center left; Client Bonwit Teller
Sin títuloSeated figure in linen sailor dress with brimmed straw hat; Black and white: charcoal; Signed center left; Client Bonwit Teller
Sin títuloFigure in striped "Dolce Vita" leisure shirt and matching skirt; Black and white: charcoal; Client Bonwit Teller
Sin títuloSeated figure in shirred swimsuit; Black and white: charcoal and wash
Sin títuloFigure in fur lined coat and beret with dog; Black and white: charcoal and wash
Sin títuloSecond of three in The Shoe Series: figure in red shirred sheath morphing into a shoe; Color: marker and pastel; Signed; Client FIT demonstration
Sin títuloVolume 22 includes coverage of Mainbocher's biannual collections, as well as miscellaneous articles and photographs of his designs for socialites and coverage of him being the first person in the fashion field to receive an official Navy award. For fall 1959 he showed a slightly lowered waistline and a longer suit jacket. In the spring of 1960 his clothes looked both forward and back. He revived some of his own bias cuts from the 1930s, but introduced longer suit jackets with low cut, collarless necklines worn with high neck blouses. For fall 1960 the big news was the he endorsed the culotte, or divided skirt. This was surprising since nearly all Seventh Avenue designers were also making them. He also introduced his "rain suit," which consisted of a three-quarter length flared coat over an equally flared skirt in beige water-repellent canvas. In this and other volumes there are random newspaper photographs of brides (i.e. Kate Roosevelt, grandaughter of FDR) without a caption, but since they were clipped by Mainbocher's service we are to assume that Mainbocher designed the wedding gowns. In the timespan covered in this volume he designed gowns for several of his clients for high-profile events. They include Mrs. Winston Guest and Glora Vanderbilt Lumet for the Embassy Ball in November 1959; for Guest, Diana Vreeland, Mrs. Edsel Ford and Ms. Benson Ford to wear to Charlotte Ford's coming out party in December 1959; and for Mrs. Charles Engelhard and daughter Anne Engelhard for Anne's engagement party and wedding in March 1960. Folders include a typed contents page; a program from the Waves National Reunion in Dallas, Texas from July 1960; and two large photographs of two of Mainbocher's models wearing clothing from his Fall 1960 collection.
Seated figure in shirtwaist dress with dotted scarf; Black and white: brush and wash
Sin títuloThree figures in coats on gray paper with white details; Black and white: charcoal, wash and gouache; Signed left center
Sin títuloEight heads wearing spring hats; Black and white: charcoal and wash; Signed lower left; Client Franklin Simon
Sin títuloThree heads combined with gloved hands; Black and white: charcoal and wash; Signed lower right
Sin títuloThree figures in striped cotton: one in suit, one in sundress, one in sleeveless blouse and slim skirt (framed); Black and white:charcoal, pastel, gouache on gray paper w/ white details; Signed lower right
Sin título"New Spring Hats." Head in cloche with Art Deco pattern background (framed); Black and white: brush and wash; Signed upper right
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