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Ideal Scrapbook, Clippings, f.2of3
US NNFIT SC.1.3.5.1 · folder · 1910s-1925
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Article entitled "Studies in Smartness" written by Miss Violet Vanbrugh as well as a Christmas card and a Business card. One program from an exhibition of Gera Mills' fabric used in garments made by Vionnet, Lelong, Patou, Paquin, Cheuir, Premet, Renee, Doucet, Doeuille, and Bernard. 1-Two page spread (pp. 18-21) from the December 22, 1925 issue of Women's Wear Daily; amusements page and a page dedicated to fur fashion, with advertisements and columns about the popular furs of the time.

Sketches, phototransfers of, 1910s
US NNFIT SC.1.2.1 · sub-series · 1910s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

0.9 linear foot - phototransfers from 1910s. Volumes that contains this material were named "Old Lucile", some of the sketch photographs are dated 1916 and 1917, sometimes month and day is indicated. "Lucile" or "Lady Duff Gordon" signed occasionally. Some have fabric swatches attached. Sketches are rendered in several distinct styles, by different artists. Some photographs occur more than once. These photographs were pasted within the scrapbook without clear order.

Phototransfers of sketches, 1910s, #1, f.1of4
US NNFIT SC.1.2.1.1-4.1 · folder · 1910s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

12 phototransfers of sketches on two sheets of paper. These phototransfers are glued onto two leaves from a scrapbook, both of which hold three phototransfers per side. The official transfers are embossed with Lucile stamp and bear Lucile's signature and model title such as "No. 46 The Bleeding Heart".

Model photographs, 1915-1919
US NNFIT SC.1.1 · Séries · 1915-1919
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

5.5 linear feet - Model photographs series of the collection include documents Lucile Ltd. lines for 1915, 1916, 1917 and 1919 (not all seasons). Some of the lines are annotated with model titles, listing of fabrics and fabric swatches. In some instances a name of the customer or a price is jotted down. Most often there are multiple takes of the model showing front, back, and side views providing complete presentation of a costume. Some volumes repeat in almost complete entirety, (reasons unknown). Some of the annotations are written in careful script, with ruled lines for uniformity of the letter height, and pasted on a heavier board. Women in these photographs are mostly girls hired to model for Lucile Ltd., however there are some photographs of well known theater and film personalities (See series 1.3.2). Lady Duff Gordon was the first one to have specialized events called "Mannequin Parades" for showing clothes on beautiful women in staged settings, a precursor to today's runway fashion shows. In the collection clothes are modeled by models whose full names were not lost to history: Dolores (Kathleen Mary Rose [married name Willkinson]), Phyllis (Phyllis Francatelli), Dinarzade (Lillian Mulligan [married name Farley] in some sources identified as Lillian Fisher, or Petra Clive), Hebe (Constance Vasselier); as well as those known by only trade names - Arjamand, Melisande, Gamela, Corisande and others. Among photographers listed separately as contributors are, Joel Feder, T. Fall, Burke Atwell (Lucile Studio?), White Studio 1546 Broadway

Photographs, Fall, 1915, 1 of 2
US NNFIT SC.1.1.1-2 · sub-series · 1915
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Disbound scrapbook, 145 photographs Autumn 1915 line, in 2 folders. Photographs are unannotated. At this time Lady Duff Gordon reached creative and financial pinnacle of her career. Success of New York branch helped to support the war-torn London and Paris branches. This line features a return to the full skirt and decorative pleating and decadent fabrics. Around this time Lucile gained status of a Permanent Resident in the United States. [See--US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.3-6 for annotation, duplicated material (models #91-#105 are not included in this volume)]

Photographs, Personalities, circa 1915-1919
US NNFIT SC.1.3.2.1-3 · sub-sub-series · 1915-1919
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Disbound scrapbook, 41 photographs of society women and/or actresses of theatrical garments. Most of the names that are written on the backs of the photographs or the scrapbook pages are listed here: Kitty Gordon, Eleanor Griffith, Dorothy Dickson, Annette Bade, Pearl White, Kathlyn Martyn, Mes. Philip Hummel, Francine Larrimore, Dorothy Shoemaker, inscription 'Mis Vivian Martin - star of "Just Married" '. Photographs by S.A. Johnston and Joel Feder. Further research is needed to determine the role and prominence of these women in the world of theater or society they were part of. [MOVED in from old-US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.1.16.3 - 3 photographs of actresses - (1) Kitty Gordon and (2) Bertha Kalich (aka Kalish) dedicated to McHorter, and (3) famous Irene Castle dedicated to Mr. Tolman (Manager of Lucile Ltd. of New York)]

Sketches, drawings, 1916
US NNFIT SC.1.2.2.1-3 · volume · 1916
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Disbound scrapbook, 182 sketches from 1916, 3 folders in 2 containers. Sketches are named, numbered according to the line(s) sequence(s). Drafted in pencil and painted with gouache, and watercolor. There are 20 unannotated sketches; 62 sketches have fabric swatches. Numbering implies 3 lines. At the end of the 1st folder there are some childrens clothing designs. In the second folder #3 "Brighton South Shore", #40 "Flo, Flo" In addition to these consistently numbered and annotated sketches there are 50 "Coats and Wraps" sketches from mid 1920s, some of these are signed by Ethel Rabin, sketch artist who worked for Berley Studios, a fashion drawing subscription service. These are not original drawings, but reproductions, and pasted randomly on the available pages of this otherwise filled volume. In most of these "out of place" sketches Barely Studios imprint and artist's signature are obliterated (scratched out) or covered up by the imprint of Lucile Limited.

Phototransfers of sketches, 1910s, #1
US NNFIT SC.1.2.1.1-4 · sub-sub-series · 1910s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

From 2 disbound scrapbooks, 211 phototransfers of sketches. Both of the scrapbooks were from from mid 1910's. Items in folders 1 and 2 are original to this location: 128 photographs of sketches, 10 official Lucile phototransfers of sketches, and a Christmas card illustrated with a Lucile sketch. Some prints occur repeatedly. Those dated are from 1916, some have prices. Phototransfers bare embossed Lucile, Ltd. Paris stamp. There is also a Christmas card from 1909

Photographs, Fall, 1916/Spring, 1917
US NNFIT SC.1.1.10-12 · sub-series · 1916-1917
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Disbound scrapbook, (79 leaves?) (168 photographs?) from the autumn 1916 and spring 1917 lines, in 3 folders. Garments are fully annotated, includes title, number, and short description noting colors and/or fabrics. The program for the premier fashion show of this line is available in--US.NNFIT.SC.1.3.4.1 Each number worn by the model has two to four photographs of the garments from different angles. Many designs of oriental influence, especially tea gowns such as #14 "Djer-kiss" Persian, #11 "Tuan", and evening wear - #47 "Bilitis" evening gown, #28 "Salambo" opera coat. Missing is ensemble #5; ensemble #45 is fully described but has no photographs and a note "not designed". 1 item previously in a separate folder was moved into first folder - #33. Album is of heavier, gray color paper, fits 2 photographs next to each other on a single page. [See: --US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.7-9 for duplicated material, note the inconsistency in titles (1916-1917 vs 1916)] Photographs by Feder, Joel

Sketches, Period Gowns, 1920s, v.74
US NNFIT SC.1.2.2.13-14 · volume · 1920s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Loose 50 sketches of period costumes from early 1920s, (old-volume .74), in 2 folders. Interpretations of historical costume, ethnic garments, and theatrical costumes. Sketches with titles like "Moyen Age", "Italian", "Egyptian" and "Hindu" (the latter has a note "for Miss Van Cliff"). According to notes on the drawings some designs are for stage productions: "Miss Claire Act I", "Act 2, Scene 2"; some of the designs are variations of the same outfit; some with swatches of fabrics attached. In the second folder (US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.2.14) there is a group of drawings of robes/suits of Chinese inspired pants and tunics that were bound in small portfolio, some of these drawings are signed by Dorothy, Barker, Alison, Mand T., one of them is stamped on verso with "Marie Cook 58 West 57th st.", and "Lucile Staff, Inc."

Photographs, Fall, 1917
US NNFIT SC.1.1.13-17 · sub-series · 1917
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Disbound scrapbook, 136 photographs from Fall, 1917 in 4 folders, 2 containers. Each ensemble is named, numbered, described, and ordered according to its display in the premier fashion show; among them #12 "Mary Pickford", #28 "Revolution". Last folder --US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.17 contains many fur coat designs. Many ensembles have multiple photographs depicting different views of the costume. Photographs taken at Studio.

Sketches, Negligees and Pajamas, 1920s, v.73
US NNFIT SC.1.2.2.15-16 · volume · 1920s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Loose 118 sketches of evening gowns from 1920s, most from mid-1920s, one item dated 1925, (old-volume .71), in 5 folders. Sketches are numbered from .1-.110; drafted in pencil, painted with gouache, and watercolor, some detailed in pen. [doublecheck - Some signed - Mand T., Alison, Evelyn, Dorothy, Louise Schabacker, Ethel Rabin (reproductions), and illegible signature that starts with a pictogram made up of letters and ends with "dverton".] Several drawings are stamped with "Lucile Staff, Inc. 22 East 56th St." Drawing .84 has a note at the top right corner: that reads "Lelong, Fall 1925", in a drawing .103 woman holding a cigarette, .106 has note that reads "Mrs. Flora B. Cammeron, This design is for an orchid or violet gown. Please send sample of light weight silk and lace in three shades."

Sketches, Coats and Wraps, circa 1920-1925, v.75
US NNFIT SC.1.2.2.17-20 · volume · 1920s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Loose 91 sketches of Coats and Wraps bulk from mid-1920s, (old-volume .75). In addition to the original drawings there are black and white photocopies of sketches [See: --US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.2.1-3 for originals] from late mid to late 1920s; many of these sketches are signed by Ethel Rabin, who worked for Berley Studios, a fashion drawing subscription service. Some of the designs seem to be from mid 1920s. .33 has a note "Jean Patou Coat 1925". Cloche hat accessorises some of the designs. Of note are designs of textiles with patterns and embroidery of far east are focus of some of the designs - .45, .49, .52, .53, .62, this is not an exhaustive list) Few signed by Louise Schabacker; eight drawings stamped with "Lucile Staff, Inc" (.63, .64, .66, .67, .68, .69, .71, .72, .85) In many drawings a woman has a red hair. Some notes with customers' names "Evelyn McHorter Miss R. Beatly", "Miss Hopkins"; some carry notes regarding prices and materials .86 "Furr Extra Price $375."; last sketch .91 has a stage note "1st Act"

Photographs, Fall, 1919, f.1of4
US NNFIT SC.1.1.18-21.18 · folder · 1919
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

69 photographs, models #1-#44, mostly coats and walking suits; a clipping from 'Town and Country' advertising presentation of the line in a private viewing event; photocopy of a scrapbook cover.

Photographs, Fall, 1919
US NNFIT SC.1.1.18-21 · sub-series · 1919
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Disbound scrapbook, 234 photographs, Autumn 1919, 4 folders in 2 containers. Each ensemble is named and numbered in accordance to their order displayed at the autumn 1919 fashion show. Created in a period of legal and business difficulties, this line is one of the last produced by Lady Duff Gordon for Lucile, Ltd. Most costumes have two to four photographs displaying different views of the ensemble. Included in this scrapbook is a copy of a half page advertisement for Lucile, Ltd. from the May 1st, 1920 issue of Town and Country Magazine. The add indicates that the collection was created in France. The photography is less controlled, many photographs are overexposed, the interior of the room itself is somewhat drab, dresses less ornamented, more solemn, some not very well fitted, many new girls among those modeling the clothes, fabrics feature bold patterns. The program for the premier fashion show of this line is available in--US.NNFIT.SC.1.3.4.1

Sketches, original drawings, circa 1915-1925
US NNFIT SC.1.2.2 · sub-series · 1910s-1920s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

4.6 linear feet - The bulk of original drawings are from early 1920s. This part of the collection has several arrangements, by year, season, or type of clothing - such as Evening Wear, Evening Gowns, Theatrical Wear, Wraps and Coats, Pajamas and Negligees, and Wedding Gowns. 2 volumes document lines by year and season (1916, 1917-1918). Sketches rendered in several distinct styles, by multiple artists. Some illustrations very carefully drawn and colored with great attention to detail (most consistent example 1916 sketches), drawings from later period captivate as much for the style of execution as the subject they portray (Theatrical costume). Loose sketches collected into volumes by clothing type make up the bulk of the subseries (fragments of scrapbooks' cover artwork can be seen in 1.3.6). Drawn on a heavy board in various techniques, predominantly ink, gouache, and watercolor, some accentuated with gold and silver. There are many cases where it is especially difficult to attribute the purpose of the garment, a tea gown or theatrical costume maybe misinterpreted/misattributed, since Lucile designed for themed occasions, theater and revue, where risque outfits were required; evening gowns designed for the stage actresses may have become part of the evening wear collection. Most of the loose sketches have rusty staple marks on them.

Ideal Scrapbook Leaves 9 - 23, f.3of3
US NNFIT SC.1.3.5.2 · folder · 1910s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Newspaper articles about Lucile and/or written by Lady Duff Gordon that date as far back as 1910. Some are articles about the company's legal struggle. There are also a couple of articles about another Lady Duff Gordon who was an Egyptian explorer at the time. There is documentation of Lucile's beginnings and rise to fame, and review of the early work.

US NNFIT SC.1.3.7.2 · folder · 1800s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

37 fashion plates. Enclosed in a separate portfolio for preservation and easier access: 3 loose fashion plates; a page of the scrapbook with reproductions of one Barbier and one Simeon "Chloe" plates; one page with two plates and fabric ribbon swatch. The rest of the content is in the original order.

US NNFIT SC.1.2 · Séries · 1915-1920s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

5.5 linear feet - Sketches series are divided into following subseries: 1.2.1 phototransfers and photographs of sketches; 1.2.2 Original drawings. Descriptions with specific details regarding form and content are provided with subseries, and volume or folder level descriptions. Authorship of the sketches is hard to determine, at least 7 distinct artists' work appears repeatedly throughout the collection. Stylistically they vary greatly, from very precise drawing and color application, to much looser line and dabs of color. Some of the figure drawings indicate classic training, in other instances figure appears stiff, faces cartoonish, yet other artists favor stylized figure. There are differences in color application as well, ranging from masterful technique in watercolor for transparent and light fabrics accentuated with gouache for effect of raised texture or embroidery, to carefully applied opaque, flat, vibrant color with incredibly detailed textile pattern or texture. Bulk of the sketches are not signed, those that are signed rarely were signed in full; among those - Louise Schabacker, Mary Keene, Marie Cook, Ethel Rabin (reproductions of sketches mid-to-late 1920s); other artists supplied initials, abbreviation, or pictogram, in some instances only first or only last name - Bob (possibly Robert Kalloch), Alison, Dorothy, Barker (Shirley Barker), Mand T. (or Mond T.) W. Ward. In some cases name is too difficult to decipher for example - "Albalverton" has been signed in few different ways, and most likely deciphered incorrectly. Many times sketches are signed "Lucile", but that name was signed by many, in variety of styles, and could mean among other things: sign of intellectual and/or physical ownership of the Lucile, Ltd., or a sign of approval by lead designer. Items --US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.2.6-34 are sketches arranged by the type of clothing; although rarely dated, those dated are from 1920, 1921, and 1922, some of the material might predate or be of later dates than indicated. For years 1916, 1917-1918 see US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.2.1-5

Photographs, Assorted models, 1910s, f.2of2
US NNFIT SC.1.3.3.2 · folder · 1910s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

8 Model photographs of ensembles from the nineteen-teens. All are encased in Mylar, and two have notation of titles and numbers which correspond with a line from the 1915: "No. 40, 1 Lake Shore Drive'" and "No. 40, 2 'Strictly Business'".

Sketches, Theater costumes, Evening wear, 1920s, v.76
US NNFIT SC.1.2.2.21-24 · volume · 1920s
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

Loose 91 sketches (old-volume .76), in 4 folders. Early 1920s designs of theatrical costumes, evening wear, fancy dress, lingerie and swimwear. Designs are drafted in pencil and painted in gouache or watercolor. Many of the sketches are of theatrical costumes, some of the sketches are for nudity revealing garments. Eight drawings are dated and signed "Lucile 1921". A blond woman with golden hair appears drawn in some sketches. Among the artists recognizable throughout (Louise Schabacker, Mand T, etc.) one sketch signed "M. Willis". Some sketches indicate customer: third item in the first folder "Helen Lyons", .35 "Miss Martin", "For Miss Berry", "Madame Adelaide Fieldm...[illegible]". On several drawing note reads "fitted-gone", one has note "Mc?lan[illegible] says OK for stage". On several occasions several variations of the same outfit appear, as an example .55 and .57 are for the same dress, .39-.42 use same elements of costume in different ways.