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Nightgowns
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Sketches, Theater costumes, Evening wear, 1920s, v.76

Loose 91 sketches (old-volume .76), in 4 folders. Early 1920s designs of theatrical costumes, evening wear, fancy dress, lingerie and swimwear. Designs are drafted in pencil and painted in gouache or watercolor. Many of the sketches are of theatrical costumes, some of the sketches are for nudity revealing garments. Eight drawings are dated and signed "Lucile 1921". A blond woman with golden hair appears drawn in some sketches. Among the artists recognizable throughout (Louise Schabacker, Mand T, etc.) one sketch signed "M. Willis". Some sketches indicate customer: third item in the first folder "Helen Lyons", .35 "Miss Martin", "For Miss Berry", "Madame Adelaide Fieldm...[illegible]". On several drawing note reads "fitted-gone", one has note "Mc?lan[illegible] says OK for stage". On several occasions several variations of the same outfit appear, as an example .55 and .57 are for the same dress, .39-.42 use same elements of costume in different ways.

Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

  • US NNFIT SC.1
  • Raccolta
  • 1863-1935

Collection is comprised of model photographs, sketches, photographs of sketches, show programs, some newspaper and magazine clippings with articles about or by Lucile, order forms, advertisements, and fashion plates. Garment designs include theatrical costumes, wedding gowns, day and evening wear, tea gowns, lingerie and pajamas. Bulk of the collection consists of model photographs, fashion sketches, photographs of sketches and official phototransfers. In addition there are clippings of articles from different publications written by or about Lucile, she wrote regular columns for Hearst publications. Programs for the "Model Parades" introducing lines of clothing for several years. There are some photographs of Lucile's clients, and photographs of "Rose room" interiors of Lucile. Ltd from New York and Chicago locations. Inspirational and reference materials collected by Lucile and/or her staff, mainly fashion plates and newspaper clippings from different publications. Dates range from the early 1910s to the mid 1920s. Model photographs were glued in large format (12-14"w to 16-18"h) standard, blank books to order, referred throughout this finding aid as scrapbooks; there are 12 volumes in the collection. Bulk of original drawings that are arranged according to the type of clothing are loose, drawn on a heavy weight board; sketches for 1916 and 197-18 lines were glued into scrapbooks; there are 12 volumes of original drawings and 2 volumes of photographs and phototransfers. It is possible that two types of arrangement seen throughout the collection (most of Model photographs chronologically, most of sketches by type of clothing) are due to different purpose these materials served; sketches of period gowns or theatrical costumes could have been referred to time and time again for different productions or themed social events, whereas model photographs would have documented actual creation of such a garment at a certain point in time. It is also not clear why, but some scrapbooks with model photographs are reproduced in complete entirety, using same photo session materials some fully annotated.

Lucile, 1862-1935

Frances Neady collection of original fashion illustrations, 1913-

  • US NNFIT SC.187
  • Raccolta
  • 1913-

The Frances Neady collection of Original Fashion Illustrations was established in 1984 to honor its namesake, an inspirational teacher of fashion illustration. The collection encompasses over a century of fashion art. Its earliest example, a watercolor by Pierre Brissaud for Gazette du Bon Ton, is dated 1913; its most recent donation is by contemporary artist Ruben Toledo. Among other stars represented in the collection are Eric (Carl Erickson), René Bouché, Dorothy Hood, George Stavrinos, and Antonio (Lopez). Donations to the collection come from artists, collectors, and industry professionals. The donated works fulfill criteria established by the Neady Collection Advisory Board, which acknowledges artists who exhibit high standards of draftsmanship and esthetic quality, demonstrate an individual approach, possess technical virtuosity, have worked for high-end magazines, stores or corporations, and have earned the admiration of their peers. The Frances Neady collection’s mission is to encourage and facilitate research by students and industry professionals in the art of fashion illustration. The collection presents a graphic record of the art’s evolution since the 1910s. In addition, it provides a vivid cultural and visual reflection of its time.

Neady Collection Advisory Board