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Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

  • US NNFIT SC.1
  • collection
  • 1863-1935

Collection is comprised of model photographs, sketches, photographs of sketches, show programs, some newspaper and magazine clippings with articles about or by Lucile, order forms, advertisements, and fashion plates. Garment designs include theatrical costumes, wedding gowns, day and evening wear, tea gowns, lingerie and pajamas. Bulk of the collection consists of model photographs, fashion sketches, photographs of sketches and official phototransfers. In addition there are clippings of articles from different publications written by or about Lucile, she wrote regular columns for Hearst publications. Programs for the "Model Parades" introducing lines of clothing for several years. There are some photographs of Lucile's clients, and photographs of "Rose room" interiors of Lucile. Ltd from New York and Chicago locations. Inspirational and reference materials collected by Lucile and/or her staff, mainly fashion plates and newspaper clippings from different publications. Dates range from the early 1910s to the mid 1920s. Model photographs were glued in large format (12-14"w to 16-18"h) standard, blank books to order, referred throughout this finding aid as scrapbooks; there are 12 volumes in the collection. Bulk of original drawings that are arranged according to the type of clothing are loose, drawn on a heavy weight board; sketches for 1916 and 197-18 lines were glued into scrapbooks; there are 12 volumes of original drawings and 2 volumes of photographs and phototransfers. It is possible that two types of arrangement seen throughout the collection (most of Model photographs chronologically, most of sketches by type of clothing) are due to different purpose these materials served; sketches of period gowns or theatrical costumes could have been referred to time and time again for different productions or themed social events, whereas model photographs would have documented actual creation of such a garment at a certain point in time. It is also not clear why, but some scrapbooks with model photographs are reproduced in complete entirety, using same photo session materials some fully annotated.

Lucile, 1862-1935

Symposium records

Includes the advertisitng flyer, schedule of events, papers, and presentations delivered at the 2014 Symposium "Modes of Modernity The Ephemeral & the Eternal in 20th Century Fashion" which occurred on Saturday, May 10, 2014. Eleven Graduate Students from the Department of Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice delivered presentations. Each presenter's paper and presentation is represented. Denyse Montegut delivered the welcoming address and Rachel Baum and Lourdes Font gave an introduction entitled, "Defining Modernism in Fashion," but their presentations are not included in the files. The names of the presenters and the title of their presentations contained in this folder are: Julia Pehrson, "Everything Old is New Again: Egyptomania in 1920s Fashion;" Kyla Ibanez Katigbak, "Modern Metropolis: The New York Skyline in Textile Design, 1890-1940;" Paula M. Sim, "Modesty is Fashion: Dress Reform in Modern Orthodox Judaism;" Diana Dalmas, "Period Films and the Decline of the Modern, 1930-1953;" Virginia Wilking, "A Well Controlled Body: Constructing the New American Woman of Fashion 1900-1940;" Kristen Haggerty, "Shop Girls: Department Stores and the Fashionable Working Woman;" Kathryn Squitieri, "A Tale of Two Elspeths: Forgotten Coutuerières and Their Impact on Modern Fashion."

Frances Neady collection of original fashion illustrations, 1913-

  • US NNFIT SC.187
  • collection
  • 1913-

The Frances Neady collection of Original Fashion Illustrations was established in 1984 to honor its namesake, an inspirational teacher of fashion illustration. The collection encompasses over a century of fashion art. Its earliest example, a watercolor by Pierre Brissaud for Gazette du Bon Ton, is dated 1913; its most recent donation is by contemporary artist Ruben Toledo. Among other stars represented in the collection are Eric (Carl Erickson), René Bouché, Dorothy Hood, George Stavrinos, and Antonio (Lopez). Donations to the collection come from artists, collectors, and industry professionals. The donated works fulfill criteria established by the Neady Collection Advisory Board, which acknowledges artists who exhibit high standards of draftsmanship and esthetic quality, demonstrate an individual approach, possess technical virtuosity, have worked for high-end magazines, stores or corporations, and have earned the admiration of their peers. The Frances Neady collection’s mission is to encourage and facilitate research by students and industry professionals in the art of fashion illustration. The collection presents a graphic record of the art’s evolution since the 1910s. In addition, it provides a vivid cultural and visual reflection of its time.

Neady Collection Advisory Board

Seymour Troy collection, 1936-1977, bulk 1936-1940

  • US NNFIT SC.105
  • collection
  • 1936-1977

This collection consists of sketches, shoe patterns, embellishments, photographs, promotional materials, scrapbooks, and metal stamps from women's footwear company Seymour Troy Originals. The majority of the collection is undated, although it is estimated that most of it is from the 1930s and 1940s. At least one piece of promotional material is from yrto, and there is a scrapbook cover stamped with yrto. Previous documentation of the collection noted that some sketches were by other designers for Seymour Troy, and specifically named Emery Blau, Al Lewis, and "Cohen." It appears that the collection was added to after Seymour Troy's death, as there are at least two sketches dated 1977.

Troy, Seymour

Marvin S. Traub interview, 1987 January 16

In this conversation, Marvin S. Traub talks about his start at Bloomingdale's, and details his first seven positions at the company. He describes the Bloomingdale's customer as being someone who is interested in change and forward fashion, someone who "likes different things at different times" and who expects Bloomingdale's to alert them to the newest trends. Traub expresses his pride at helping to develop the careers of some of the industry's influential designers and executives and credits Bloomingdale's success to its team of talented and respectful employees. Traub talks about the role his wife has played in his life and he discusses his three children and their endeavors. In discussing some of the major changes at Bloomingdale's during Traub's tenure, there is mention of the Country Promotions, the branded shopping bags, the in-house boutiques, and Bloomingdale's role as a cultural center within a community. Traub referes to several different people as role models and peers, including Jed Davidson, Martha Graham, Bill Blass, and his wife, Lee.

Traub, Marvin

Julian Tomchin interview, 1986 November 24

This conversation has three main components: first, Tomchin discusses his work in the home furnishings department, consolidating the department into one cohesive collection under the guidance of a fashion director, similar to the structure of the clothing departments. This allowed the department to present more fully developed design ideas to the customer, encouraging the customer to work as her own decorator, just as the fashion departments allowed her to be her own stylist. Next, Tomchin speaks at length about Bloomingdale's emphasis on exclusivity of product, whether through the development of Bloomingdale's own signature products, through the introduction of new international products through the country promotions, or through the collaborative efforts between Bloomingdale's and manufacturers to create products that would be of special interest to the Bloomingdale's customer. This convseration focuses heavily on the importance of the educated buyer in understanding other cultures and being able to translate the excitement of products to the customer. Finally, Tomchin speaks to the major contributions and milestones of Bloomingdale's CEO Marvin S. Traub, who opened 5 new Bloomingdale's stores during the first 8 years of Tomchin's tenure with the department store. Traub is described as having a parental sense of care and interest in the store and as having a level of respect for the customer that translated into thoughtful selection and exhibition of products.

Tomchin, Julian

Press clippings, 1962-1971

This scrapbook contains a b&w portrait of Valerie in her studio. Newspaper clippings featuring Aris advertisements with a glove sample, packaging sample and fabric swatch. Some clippings are designer features about Valerie herself and store appearances. A certificate of cooperation from Macy's and a thank you letter from Joanne King on KHOU-TV letterhead. Promo items related to ISOTONER products.

Photographs, Fall, 1919

Disbound scrapbook, 234 photographs, Autumn 1919, 4 folders in 2 containers. Each ensemble is named and numbered in accordance to their order displayed at the autumn 1919 fashion show. Created in a period of legal and business difficulties, this line is one of the last produced by Lady Duff Gordon for Lucile, Ltd. Most costumes have two to four photographs displaying different views of the ensemble. Included in this scrapbook is a copy of a half page advertisement for Lucile, Ltd. from the May 1st, 1920 issue of Town and Country Magazine. The add indicates that the collection was created in France. The photography is less controlled, many photographs are overexposed, the interior of the room itself is somewhat drab, dresses less ornamented, more solemn, some not very well fitted, many new girls among those modeling the clothes, fabrics feature bold patterns. The program for the premier fashion show of this line is available in--US.NNFIT.SC.1.3.4.1

Symposium records

Includes the advertisitng flyer, schedule of events, papers, and presentations delivered at the 2006 Symposium "Forgotten Fashion" which occurred on May 6, 2006 from 11:00am to 5:00pm. Ten Graduate Students from the School of Graduate Studies delivered presentations. Each presenter's paper and presentation is represented. Keynote address, "A Season of Cellophane Everywhere: Cellophane Fashions 1932-1936," was given by Claire Sauro, but her presentation is not included in the file. The names of the presenters and the title of their presentations contained in this folder are: Sarah Scaturro, "In the Shadow of Fortuny and Poiret;" Sonya Mooney, "The Most Exclusive Couturier in Paris;" Allegra Ceci, "Remembered for the Wrong Reason: Marion Davies" (presentation on CD); Ann Poulson, "Out of the Vault: Hollywood Costume Designer René Hubert;" Mo Whitaker, "Fashion by Ration" (presentation on CD).

Symposium records

Includes the papers and presentation delivered at the 2010 Symposium "Americans in Paris: Designers, Buyers, Editors, Photographers, Models, and Clients in Paris Fashion." The names of the presenters and the title of their presentations contained in this folder are: Alexis Anselmi, "Bettina Ballard: In Her Paris Fashion, 1935-1945;" Gwendolyn Donahue, "J'ai Deux Amours: African American Influence on Paris Fashion;" Laura Mina, "The Fashion for Franklin: A New American in Paris."

Symposium records

Includes the schedule of events, summary of papers, presenters' bios, papers, and presentations delivered at the 2011 Symposium "Undressing the Fashionable Myth" which occurred on Saturday, May 7, 2011. Nine Graduate Students from the Department of Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice delivered presentations. Each presenter's paper and presentation is represented. Denyse Montegut and Lourdes Font delivered the welcoming addresses, but their presentations are not included in the files. The names of the presenters and the title of their presentations contained in this folder are: Larisa Shirley, "Horsefeathers! The Fabled Flapper;" Clara Berg, "The Rise and Fall of the Hemline Index;" Jessica M. Barber, "Stripped to the Bone: Myths About Corsetry;" Cassidy Percoco, "The Greek Myths of Fashion: from Antiquity to the Present;" Mariana Nannarone, "Another Look at the New Look."

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