This collection consists of two matted pochoir prints:
-one depicting the torso of a woman in a pink ensemble holding a blue feather, limited edition, 19/30, 1913-1914
-one depicting two woman and one man viewing prints on paper, original 1912, print 1920
Programs from Lucile, Ltd. fashion shows from 1913 through 1923 (not a complete run). Programs pasted on the pages of scrapbook are not in chronological order. Garments listed in the programs are numbered and named. Each of these ensembles have a brief description noting clothing type, colors, fabrics, and trimmings. Some are also notated with prices of each garment by hand, suggesting that the program indicating a master copy. Some of the programs do not have the title page indicating the date or season of the line. [Should be verified: Model photographs of four (4) of the lines are part of this collection; Autumn 1916 -US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.7-9 (box#3), Autumn 1917 - US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.10-12 (box#4), Autumn 1919 - US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.18-21 (box#7 & box#8), Spring 1917 - US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.31-35 (box#12 & box#13).] At the end of the folder is a letter from the former staff of Lucile, Ltd. to Lady Duff Gordon, a ticket and invitation to a September 22, 1922 private showing of the Fall and Winter collections designed by Evelyn McHorter for J.M. Gidding & Company, an enterprise that bought Lucile, Ltd. List of programs in order of arrangement: 1. Fall 1913; 2. Spring 1923; 3. Fall 1923 and Fall 1922; 4. Spring 1920 and Spring 1919; 5. Fall 1920; 6. Fall 1919; 7. Spring 1918 and Spring 1917; 8. Fall 1914; 9. Fall 1916 and 1917; 10. 5-leave program with no cover page; 11. 1-leave program with no cover page.
Photocopies of programs from Lucile fashion shows from 1913 through 1923. Ordered is the same as in--US.NNFIT.SC.1.3.5.2, pages of each are clipped together.
Figure in yellow fur-trimmed suit and muff in park-like setting (framed). "Gift to FIT library from the estate of Robert Knox August 1973. Temps Gris;" Color: watercolor; Signed lower right, Verso: card Galerie Charpentier, Paris; Client Gazette du Bon Ton
Brissaud, Pierre, 1885-1964This folder contains photographs of the exterior of the Lord and Taylor building at 5th Avenue and 39th street. Also contains photographs of the interiors of employee facilities, including the rooftop lounge, dining hall, hospital, gym,, and classrooms.
This collection is comprised of A. Beller & Co. sketches for womenswear designs, 1914 - 1929
A. Beller & Co.73 photographs of sketches and phototransfers, few items dated, one 29 March 1916, and one 1916
4.6 linear feet - The bulk of original drawings are from early 1920s. This part of the collection has several arrangements, by year, season, or type of clothing - such as Evening Wear, Evening Gowns, Theatrical Wear, Wraps and Coats, Pajamas and Negligees, and Wedding Gowns. 2 volumes document lines by year and season (1916, 1917-1918). Sketches rendered in several distinct styles, by multiple artists. Some illustrations very carefully drawn and colored with great attention to detail (most consistent example 1916 sketches), drawings from later period captivate as much for the style of execution as the subject they portray (Theatrical costume). Loose sketches collected into volumes by clothing type make up the bulk of the subseries (fragments of scrapbooks' cover artwork can be seen in 1.3.6). Drawn on a heavy board in various techniques, predominantly ink, gouache, and watercolor, some accentuated with gold and silver. There are many cases where it is especially difficult to attribute the purpose of the garment, a tea gown or theatrical costume maybe misinterpreted/misattributed, since Lucile designed for themed occasions, theater and revue, where risque outfits were required; evening gowns designed for the stage actresses may have become part of the evening wear collection. Most of the loose sketches have rusty staple marks on them.
2.3 linear feet - Mixed materials divided into following subseries: 1.3.1 Interior photographs; 1.3.2 Personalities; 1.3.3 Assorted model photographs; 1.3.4 Show programs; 1.3.5 Articles and promotional materials; 1.3.6 Scrapbook covers; 1.3.7 Fashion plates, inspirational materials; Some of these materials are duplicated by photocopy (show programs and articles) when possible please use instead of original material.
0.4 linear foot - Personalities - photographs of stage actresses and society women
Disbound scrapbook, 41 photographs of society women and/or actresses of theatrical garments. Most of the names that are written on the backs of the photographs or the scrapbook pages are listed here: Kitty Gordon, Eleanor Griffith, Dorothy Dickson, Annette Bade, Pearl White, Kathlyn Martyn, Mes. Philip Hummel, Francine Larrimore, Dorothy Shoemaker, inscription 'Mis Vivian Martin - star of "Just Married" '. Photographs by S.A. Johnston and Joel Feder. Further research is needed to determine the role and prominence of these women in the world of theater or society they were part of. [MOVED in from old-US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.1.16.3 - 3 photographs of actresses - (1) Kitty Gordon and (2) Bertha Kalich (aka Kalish) dedicated to McHorter, and (3) famous Irene Castle dedicated to Mr. Tolman (Manager of Lucile Ltd. of New York)]
3 photographs. Two of the photographs are dedicated to E. McHortrer; one from Kitty Gordon and another from Bertha Kalich (aka Kalish), both actresses. Third photograph is of famous Irene Castle dedicated to Mr. Tolman.
4 hand colored Lucile sketches from 1910s +1 fashion plate on verso. These sketches were pasted in a scrapbook among the fashion plates, and were moved here for easier access. They seem to be phototransfers rather than originals.
0.9 linear foot - phototransfers from 1910s. Volumes that contains this material were named "Old Lucile", some of the sketch photographs are dated 1916 and 1917, sometimes month and day is indicated. "Lucile" or "Lady Duff Gordon" signed occasionally. Some have fabric swatches attached. Sketches are rendered in several distinct styles, by different artists. Some photographs occur more than once. These photographs were pasted within the scrapbook without clear order.
12 phototransfers of sketches on two sheets of paper. These phototransfers are glued onto two leaves from a scrapbook, both of which hold three phototransfers per side. The official transfers are embossed with Lucile stamp and bear Lucile's signature and model title such as "No. 46 The Bleeding Heart".
78 photographs of sketches and phototransfers, several items dated, one Jan 1916, another 29th march 1916. There is also a Christmas card from 1909.
81 photographs of sketches and phototransfers. First picture in this folder is of a modeled complete garment, not a sketch. 7 items dated 1916; one of them 16 Jan, another 29 March "Pa[e]trouchka" of the same year. Among the sketches, #55 "Vendeta", #29 "Romance, #24 Jolie, #37 "Today is Sweet".
22 photographs of society women and/or actresses, several large format photographs with scenes and cast
20 Model photographs of outer wear, day-wear, tea gowns and evening wear from 1910s. "Ideal scrapbook" is indicated as the original/previous location on several of these photographs.
2 photocopies of envelopes from Berley Studios in New York City that are notated with "Lady Duff Gordon # 1" and "Lady Duff Gordon Gordon #2".
5.5 linear feet - Model photographs series of the collection include documents Lucile Ltd. lines for 1915, 1916, 1917 and 1919 (not all seasons). Some of the lines are annotated with model titles, listing of fabrics and fabric swatches. In some instances a name of the customer or a price is jotted down. Most often there are multiple takes of the model showing front, back, and side views providing complete presentation of a costume. Some volumes repeat in almost complete entirety, (reasons unknown). Some of the annotations are written in careful script, with ruled lines for uniformity of the letter height, and pasted on a heavier board. Women in these photographs are mostly girls hired to model for Lucile Ltd., however there are some photographs of well known theater and film personalities (See series 1.3.2). Lady Duff Gordon was the first one to have specialized events called "Mannequin Parades" for showing clothes on beautiful women in staged settings, a precursor to today's runway fashion shows. In the collection clothes are modeled by models whose full names were not lost to history: Dolores (Kathleen Mary Rose [married name Willkinson]), Phyllis (Phyllis Francatelli), Dinarzade (Lillian Mulligan [married name Farley] in some sources identified as Lillian Fisher, or Petra Clive), Hebe (Constance Vasselier); as well as those known by only trade names - Arjamand, Melisande, Gamela, Corisande and others. Among photographers listed separately as contributors are, Joel Feder, T. Fall, Burke Atwell (Lucile Studio?), White Studio 1546 Broadway
70 photographs of sketches and phototransfers, few items dated 1916, one 25 March, 1916. There are few photographs where the binding or an original sketch being pinned can be seen. Among the models "#48 "Venetia, #61 "Fair as Eve", #14 "Leap Gear", #69 "Sweet Lyra"
From 2 disbound scrapbooks, 211 phototransfers of sketches. Both of the scrapbooks were from from mid 1910's. Items in folders 1 and 2 are original to this location: 128 photographs of sketches, 10 official Lucile phototransfers of sketches, and a Christmas card illustrated with a Lucile sketch. Some prints occur repeatedly. Those dated are from 1916, some have prices. Phototransfers bare embossed Lucile, Ltd. Paris stamp. There is also a Christmas card from 1909
77 photographs of sketches, one item dated 12-Feb-1916, another 27th Feb 1916, some have notes with price such as "log $310".
44 photographs of sketches;
Disbound scrapbook, 211 photographs of early [Old Lucile] sketches and 30 official Lucile phototransfers of sketches in 3 folders. In the enclosing slipcase is a folder with a loose photograph of a sketch. First sketch is a drawing of an evening gown designed by Lucile and photo-transferred onto glossy paper. Second sketch is for an evening gown, drafted in pencil and painted with gouache on transparent paper. Some of the items in this scrapbook have fabric swatches attached, and marks where the ones lost were glued. Among models: #67 "Celendine", #54 "Yussef", most of the titles appear of official phototransfers. Many items dated 1916, some with more precise dates. In the last folder US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.1.7 first picture is of a modeled complete garment, not a sketch.
16 photographs of society women and/or actresses
8 Model photographs of ensembles from the nineteen-teens. All are encased in Mylar, and two have notation of titles and numbers which correspond with a line from the 1915: "No. 40, 1 Lake Shore Drive'" and "No. 40, 2 'Strictly Business'".
45 photographs, models #33-#47
45 photographs, models #48-#91
5.5 linear feet - Sketches series are divided into following subseries: 1.2.1 phototransfers and photographs of sketches; 1.2.2 Original drawings. Descriptions with specific details regarding form and content are provided with subseries, and volume or folder level descriptions. Authorship of the sketches is hard to determine, at least 7 distinct artists' work appears repeatedly throughout the collection. Stylistically they vary greatly, from very precise drawing and color application, to much looser line and dabs of color. Some of the figure drawings indicate classic training, in other instances figure appears stiff, faces cartoonish, yet other artists favor stylized figure. There are differences in color application as well, ranging from masterful technique in watercolor for transparent and light fabrics accentuated with gouache for effect of raised texture or embroidery, to carefully applied opaque, flat, vibrant color with incredibly detailed textile pattern or texture. Bulk of the sketches are not signed, those that are signed rarely were signed in full; among those - Louise Schabacker, Mary Keene, Marie Cook, Ethel Rabin (reproductions of sketches mid-to-late 1920s); other artists supplied initials, abbreviation, or pictogram, in some instances only first or only last name - Bob (possibly Robert Kalloch), Alison, Dorothy, Barker (Shirley Barker), Mand T. (or Mond T.) W. Ward. In some cases name is too difficult to decipher for example - "Albalverton" has been signed in few different ways, and most likely deciphered incorrectly. Many times sketches are signed "Lucile", but that name was signed by many, in variety of styles, and could mean among other things: sign of intellectual and/or physical ownership of the Lucile, Ltd., or a sign of approval by lead designer. Items --US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.2.6-34 are sketches arranged by the type of clothing; although rarely dated, those dated are from 1920, 1921, and 1922, some of the material might predate or be of later dates than indicated. For years 1916, 1917-1918 see US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.2.1-5
Disbound scrapbook, (79 leaves?) (168 photographs?) from the autumn 1916 and spring 1917 lines, in 3 folders. Garments are fully annotated, includes title, number, and short description noting colors and/or fabrics. The program for the premier fashion show of this line is available in--US.NNFIT.SC.1.3.4.1 Each number worn by the model has two to four photographs of the garments from different angles. Many designs of oriental influence, especially tea gowns such as #14 "Djer-kiss" Persian, #11 "Tuan", and evening wear - #47 "Bilitis" evening gown, #28 "Salambo" opera coat. Missing is ensemble #5; ensemble #45 is fully described but has no photographs and a note "not designed". 1 item previously in a separate folder was moved into first folder - #33. Album is of heavier, gray color paper, fits 2 photographs next to each other on a single page. [See: --US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.7-9 for duplicated material, note the inconsistency in titles (1916-1917 vs 1916)] Photographs by Feder, Joel
78 photographs, models #1-#32
43 sketches, models #1-#49, 10 annotated empty pages
Disbound scrapbook, 63 sketches, from "Sketches of Models Autumn 1917 Spring 1918". Ensembles are named and numbered according to the sequence in the line. Sketches are drafted in pencil, painted in gouache, and detailed in pen, executed by a single artist. 16 of these sketches also have fabric swatches, and 15 are unannotated. In the same year Lucile designed a ready-to-wear clothing line in collaboration with Sears-Roebuck. #1 reads "Where the Shannon River Flows", #12 "El Celosa", #15 "Datura", #28 "Juanita", #48 "The Vanderbilt Cup", #60 "Dixie Land", #63 "Petroushka, #64 "Bobby's Here", #68 "Cupids Dream", #73 "Gena" wedding gown, #74 "Podruga" bridesmaids gown.
30 sketches, models #51-#75, 8 annotated empty pages.
Photocopies of most of the articles from the scrapbook in the same box. Not all articles were duplicated to protect against further deterioration of materials.
Bound scrapbook, 90 leaves
19 photocopies of articles by or about Lady Duff Gordon written about fashion from 1918 through 1919.
Bound scrapbook with articles written by Lady Duff Gordon or about Lucile, Ltd. from 1919, and 4 folder of photocopies of these articles to protect against further deterioration. Articles are the product of a clipping service with multiple copies of the same few articles from different publications.
7 photocopies of articles written by or about Lady Duff Gordon from 1918 through 1919.
This folder contains 17 black and white photographs from various sources. 3 photographs of a woman in a mirror and image reproduced in advertisement, 1918, 2 photographs of Paramount actress Lilyan Tashman, circa 1931, 12 unknown of various men, women, and children.
Insurance summaries for mill 1 and 2 (Crown Mills)
This collection is comprised of 18 folders containing designer sketches, large fabric swatches many of which include embellishment, and press materials.
Margé, Madame, 1878-1950Detailed appraisal prepared by the American Appraisal Co. July 1, 1919
Summary volume including summaries by classification, by buildings, by cost and sound volumes, and machinery depreciations (Crown Mills)
This series contains original sketches with attached examples of embellishment or embroidery.
Detailed appraisal prepared by the American Appraisal Co. July 1, 1919
Detailed summary showing sound values of the Crown Mills One for each of the two mills.
Loose 40 sketches, wedding gowns from the 1920s (old-volume 72), in 2 folders Sketches numbered .1 to .40. Executed in a variety of styles by multiple artists that can be recognized throughout the collection, at least seven distinct artists. Mostly unsigned, and undated. One signed Mand T., and one stamped "Lucile Staff Inc. 22 East 56th St."
25 sketches .1-.25, volume .74
24 sketches .41-.64 in volume .73, Negligees and Pajamas.
24 sketches .51 - .75 of coats and wraps. Sketches numbered .57, .58, and .72 are missing from this location.
Directional folder contains 51 black and white photocopies of Coats and Wraps sketches from 1920's. Original sketches are glued in the 1916 scrapbook [SEE--US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.2.1-3 for originals]. Sketches come from Berley Studios (subscription service), signature of Ethel Rabin can be seen on some, but for the most part the Berley Studios imprint is covered by that of Lucile Ltd., in some cases the signature of Ethel Rabin (of Berley Studios) is scratched out or otherwise obscured. They seem to be color phototransfers, not original drawings.
Loose 91 Millinery and Theatrical Wear sketches from 1920's in (old-volume .74) in 4 folders. Three folders contain drawings of theatrical costumes, fourth folder houses sketches of theatrical head-wear. Each sketch is drafted in pencil and painted in gouache. Some sketches have notes pertaining to color, fit, or material, and some are signed by different illustrators or designers associated with Lucile, Ltd.. one of them signed "bob" [Robert Kalloch], W. Ward. Several dated "Lucile 1920" and 1921. In the first folder There are some striking example of Russian themed designs with interpretations of traditional headdress "kokoshnik"; In a sketch .19(?) "onion" shaped domes of Vasilievskyj [St. Basil's] Sobor are drawn in the background. Second folder has several period costumes, and a sketch with caption "Little Old New York" [?for a play in "Follie" with Marion Davies?]
Fragment of scrapbook cover
Fragment of scrapbook cover
Fragment of scrapbook cover