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Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925
US NNFIT SC.1 · Coleção · 1863-1935

Collection is comprised of model photographs, sketches, photographs of sketches, show programs, some newspaper and magazine clippings with articles about or by Lucile, order forms, advertisements, and fashion plates. Garment designs include theatrical costumes, wedding gowns, day and evening wear, tea gowns, lingerie and pajamas. Bulk of the collection consists of model photographs, fashion sketches, photographs of sketches and official phototransfers. In addition there are clippings of articles from different publications written by or about Lucile, she wrote regular columns for Hearst publications. Programs for the "Model Parades" introducing lines of clothing for several years. There are some photographs of Lucile's clients, and photographs of "Rose room" interiors of Lucile. Ltd from New York and Chicago locations. Inspirational and reference materials collected by Lucile and/or her staff, mainly fashion plates and newspaper clippings from different publications. Dates range from the early 1910s to the mid 1920s. Model photographs were glued in large format (12-14"w to 16-18"h) standard, blank books to order, referred throughout this finding aid as scrapbooks; there are 12 volumes in the collection. Bulk of original drawings that are arranged according to the type of clothing are loose, drawn on a heavy weight board; sketches for 1916 and 197-18 lines were glued into scrapbooks; there are 12 volumes of original drawings and 2 volumes of photographs and phototransfers. It is possible that two types of arrangement seen throughout the collection (most of Model photographs chronologically, most of sketches by type of clothing) are due to different purpose these materials served; sketches of period gowns or theatrical costumes could have been referred to time and time again for different productions or themed social events, whereas model photographs would have documented actual creation of such a garment at a certain point in time. It is also not clear why, but some scrapbooks with model photographs are reproduced in complete entirety, using same photo session materials some fully annotated.

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Model photographs, 1915-1919
US NNFIT SC.1.1 · Séries · 1915-1919
Parte de Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

5.5 linear feet - Model photographs series of the collection include documents Lucile Ltd. lines for 1915, 1916, 1917 and 1919 (not all seasons). Some of the lines are annotated with model titles, listing of fabrics and fabric swatches. In some instances a name of the customer or a price is jotted down. Most often there are multiple takes of the model showing front, back, and side views providing complete presentation of a costume. Some volumes repeat in almost complete entirety, (reasons unknown). Some of the annotations are written in careful script, with ruled lines for uniformity of the letter height, and pasted on a heavier board. Women in these photographs are mostly girls hired to model for Lucile Ltd., however there are some photographs of well known theater and film personalities (See series 1.3.2). Lady Duff Gordon was the first one to have specialized events called "Mannequin Parades" for showing clothes on beautiful women in staged settings, a precursor to today's runway fashion shows. In the collection clothes are modeled by models whose full names were not lost to history: Dolores (Kathleen Mary Rose [married name Willkinson]), Phyllis (Phyllis Francatelli), Dinarzade (Lillian Mulligan [married name Farley] in some sources identified as Lillian Fisher, or Petra Clive), Hebe (Constance Vasselier); as well as those known by only trade names - Arjamand, Melisande, Gamela, Corisande and others. Among photographers listed separately as contributors are, Joel Feder, T. Fall, Burke Atwell (Lucile Studio?), White Studio 1546 Broadway