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Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925 Ethnic costume
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Sketches, Period Gowns, 1920s, v.74

Loose 50 sketches of period costumes from early 1920s, (old-volume .74), in 2 folders. Interpretations of historical costume, ethnic garments, and theatrical costumes. Sketches with titles like "Moyen Age", "Italian", "Egyptian" and "Hindu" (the latter has a note "for Miss Van Cliff"). According to notes on the drawings some designs are for stage productions: "Miss Claire Act I", "Act 2, Scene 2"; some of the designs are variations of the same outfit; some with swatches of fabrics attached. In the second folder (US.NNFIT.SC.1.2.2.14) there is a group of drawings of robes/suits of Chinese inspired pants and tunics that were bound in small portfolio, some of these drawings are signed by Dorothy, Barker, Alison, Mand T., one of them is stamped on verso with "Marie Cook 58 West 57th st.", and "Lucile Staff, Inc."

Lucile, Ltd. records, 1910-1925

  • US NNFIT SC.1
  • Coleção
  • 1863-1935

Collection is comprised of model photographs, sketches, photographs of sketches, show programs, some newspaper and magazine clippings with articles about or by Lucile, order forms, advertisements, and fashion plates. Garment designs include theatrical costumes, wedding gowns, day and evening wear, tea gowns, lingerie and pajamas. Bulk of the collection consists of model photographs, fashion sketches, photographs of sketches and official phototransfers. In addition there are clippings of articles from different publications written by or about Lucile, she wrote regular columns for Hearst publications. Programs for the "Model Parades" introducing lines of clothing for several years. There are some photographs of Lucile's clients, and photographs of "Rose room" interiors of Lucile. Ltd from New York and Chicago locations. Inspirational and reference materials collected by Lucile and/or her staff, mainly fashion plates and newspaper clippings from different publications. Dates range from the early 1910s to the mid 1920s. Model photographs were glued in large format (12-14"w to 16-18"h) standard, blank books to order, referred throughout this finding aid as scrapbooks; there are 12 volumes in the collection. Bulk of original drawings that are arranged according to the type of clothing are loose, drawn on a heavy weight board; sketches for 1916 and 197-18 lines were glued into scrapbooks; there are 12 volumes of original drawings and 2 volumes of photographs and phototransfers. It is possible that two types of arrangement seen throughout the collection (most of Model photographs chronologically, most of sketches by type of clothing) are due to different purpose these materials served; sketches of period gowns or theatrical costumes could have been referred to time and time again for different productions or themed social events, whereas model photographs would have documented actual creation of such a garment at a certain point in time. It is also not clear why, but some scrapbooks with model photographs are reproduced in complete entirety, using same photo session materials some fully annotated.

Lucile, 1862-1935

Sketches, Theater gowns and costumes v.77, Evening wear, 1920s

Loose 93 sketches in 6 folders. 2 folders with 65 sketches of theatrical costumes from early 1920s, (old-volume .77), 28 sketches in 4 folders assembled from other parts of collection for better access. Sketches are drafted in pencil and colored in gouache, and some have swatches of fabrics. A note on .28 reads: "Sketches should be returned at the earliest possible moment. A charge of $6 will be made for each sketch that is not returned to me." Some intended clients' names noted: .31 "Miss Bebe Daniels" (she was an American actress, singer, dancer and producer), "Miss Julia Hoyt", "Miss Peterson". 5 identified Ziegfeld Follies sketches are in this container as well: "Directorie 1795-1800, "Gothic, "Russian". There are more of the same style sketches in another folder: "Sharrah" (two sketches have this name) ; "Louis XIV"; "Venetian"; and "Venice". Several sketches signed and dated "Lucile 1920", 1921 and 1922.

Sketches, Theater and Evening wear, 1920s, f.2of4

9 theatrical costume sketches by Lucile from 1921, five of which are annotated with names. These names are: "Sharrah" (two sketches have this name) ; "Louis XIV"; "Venetian"; and "Venice". All of these sketches were drafted in pencil and painted with gouache. There are two sketches of a theatrical headdress. old-US.NNFIT.SC.1.1.1.16.4 - sketch of female head drawn in pencil, wearing a tall semi-bell crown hat (type of a top hat) with an adornment. Hat is painted in gold. Adornment is a half-opened fan shape, sea-green with magenta triangle in the center.