collection SC.336 - Rosine perfume fans, circa 1920

Known as the King of Fashion, Paul Poiret, born in France in 1879, was a celebrated French couturier active during the first half of the 20th century. He began his career selling designs to French fashion houses. Jacques Doucet hired him in 1889, where he stayed until drafted into the military in 1900. A year later, Poiret was hired by the House of Worth to create subtle garments that would offset Worth's own show-stopping ensembles. This venture was short lived, however. Poiret left in 1903 to create his own fashion house, originally at 5 rue Auber. In 1906, Poiret debuted his first corset-less design. This act was among the first that would establish the young designer. Years later, he claimed he invented the corset-less style although both Lucille and Vionnet had also gotten rid of the irksome undergarment. While "freeing women from the corset," Poiret introduced the hobble skirt, which "shackled them at the knee." By 1909, Poiret was designing garments heavily influenced by the Near- and Far-East, Africa, and Antiquity. Poiret was also began collaborating with other artists around this time, producing two pochoir books, Les robes de Paul Poiret with Paul Iribe in 1908 and Les choses de Paul Poiret with Georges Lepape in 1911, as well as what is considered one of the first fashion photoshoots with Edward Steichen. After the Ballet Russe's success in Paris in 1909, Poiret began designing "orientalist" garments including “harem” pantaloons in 1911 and “lampshade” tunics in 1913. In addition to garments, Poiret began expanding into perfumes, home decor, art exhibitions, and even opening up a trade school, École Martine (all in 1911). Poiret left his position in 1914 to serve in the first World War. He returned in 1919 but by that time, his business was on the brink of bankruptcy. During his time away, younger designers were making a name for themselves, including a young Coco Chanel. Compared to these newer designs, Poiret's garments looked out-dated and dowdy. His brand continued to deteriorate throughout the 1920s. The house closed in 1929. Poiret worked odd-jobs and often relied on the kindness of friends and acquaintances for financial help throughout the 1930s and up until his death in 1944.